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Posted

Hi guys need help here., I just bring my bike to boonsiew due to the fuel consumption is bad but after they done they say Don have any problems with it and my fuel consumption is like 15+-km/litre.

my riding style is 5 to 5.5k change gear. Nv open vtec. Any advice on how to improve on the fuel consumption

Posted
Hi guys need help here., I just bring my bike to boonsiew due to the fuel consumption is bad but after they done they say Don have any problems with it and my fuel consumption is like 15+-km/litre.

my riding style is 5 to 5.5k change gear. Nv open vtec. Any advice on how to improve on the fuel consumption

 

any aftermarket stuff like full system or air filter?

Posted (edited)
Hi guys need help here., I just bring my bike to boonsiew due to the fuel consumption is bad but after they done they say Don have any problems with it and my fuel consumption is like 15+-km/litre.

my riding style is 5 to 5.5k change gear. Nv open vtec. Any advice on how to improve on the fuel consumption

 

Honda quote 31km/L for the Revo, I presume this figure was obtained at a constant 50kph on a rolling road with no wind resistance & no ups & downs.

 

25km/litre is possible for the Revo in the real World but not much fun, 15km/litre is however very low....so.....

 

Firstly, there is no need to warm the engine for more than one minute (especially in your warm/hot climate). Just start the engine, wait a few seconds and ride.

 

Good fuel economy is about riding smoothly, get in to 6th gear at the earliest oportunity but don't lug/labor the engine. Try changing up to the next gear at 3.5k and get in to 6th gear as soon as possible. Constant stop start variations (like City riding) will use much more fuel than steady cruising at say 90kph.

 

Fuel can play a part, is high 99 octane fuel (like Shell V-Power Nitro) available? If so give it a try for a couple of tanks full, the ECU will take time to re-learn the fueling.

 

A more drastic/expensive measure would be to change the front (+1 tooth) and rear sprockets (-1 tooth). This will lower the revs a little and will help.

 

Aerodynamics: Maybe a small windscreen would help or try riding in a semi-prone position i.e. crouch down a bit.

 

Conclusion: The CB400SF does have a reputation for high fuel consumption. The brand new twin cylinder CB400 has much better economy at 39.7km/L. Less cylinders equals better fuel efficiency, some cars are now 3 cylinder for that very reason. I personally prefer the 4 cylinder and will pay the extra for that enjoyment.

Edited by Skuzz

Honda CB400ABS Revo 2012

Honda CB400F 1976

Posted
Honda quote 31km/L for the Revo, I presume this figure was obtained at a constant 50kph on a rolling road with no wind resistance & no ups & downs.

 

25km/litre is possible for the Revo in the real World but not much fun, 15km/litre is however very low....so.....

 

Firstly, there is no need to warm the engine for more than one minute (especially in your warm/hot climate). Just start the engine, wait a few seconds and ride.

 

Good fuel economy is about riding smoothly, get in to 6th gear at the earliest oportunity but don't lug/labor the engine. Try changing up to the next gear at 3.5k and get in to 6th gear as soon as possible. Constant stop start variations (like City riding) will use much more fuel than steady cruising at say 90kph.

 

Fuel can play a part, is high 99 octane fuel (like Shell V-Power Nitro) available? If so give it a try for a couple of tanks full, the ECU will take time to re-learn the fueling.

 

A more drastic/expensive measure would be to change the front (+1 tooth) and rear sprockets (-1 tooth). This will lower the revs a little and will help.

 

Aerodynamics: Maybe a small windscreen would help or try riding in a semi-prone position i.e. crouch down a bit.

 

Conclusion: The CB400SF does have a reputation for high fuel consumption. The brand new twin cylinder CB400 has much better economy at 39.7km/L. Less cylinders equals better fuel efficiency, some cars are now 3 cylinder for that very reason. I personally prefer the 4 cylinder and will pay the extra for that enjoyment.

 

thanks for the info. i will try it out on the next tank

Posted
Good fuel economy is about riding smoothly, get in to 6th gear at the earliest oportunity but don't lug/labor the engine. Try changing up to the next gear at 3.5k and get in to 6th gear as soon as possible. Constant stop start variations (like City riding) will use much more fuel than steady cruising at say 90kph.

 

Was trying this method last night & this morning. Makes my ride very relax & the bike seems to be cooler than my usual riding style. However, it is almost impossible to do that during day time. Those drivers are almost kissing my tail, forcing me to drag gear & stay away from them.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b7/ki113r/Mobile%20Uploads/20150407_203245_zpsvojubra6.jpg

 

2004 - 2005 FR1284A ~ NSR150SP (FILA Paintwork)

2012 - 2013 FS7810L ~ NSR150SP (Pure White)

2013 - 2015 FBE9955K ~ Spec 3 (Pearl White)

2015 - ???? Quit riding

Posted
Was trying this method last night & this morning. Makes my ride very relax & the bike seems to be cooler than my usual riding style. However, it is almost impossible to do that during day time. Those drivers are almost kissing my tail, forcing me to drag gear & stay away from them.

 

Hi, New to this forum. Just got my s4 spec 1 few weeks back.

Totally agreed bro, riding relaxed is only possible late at night. I tried does this but cars overtaking me all the time. Dont feel safe this way. Rather stay away then be overtaken . spending bit more on fuel more worth than giving my life to those who don seem to check their mirrors/blindspots etc. haha

 

Got a ques for the bros here. Using high octane like ( shell v power and esso 8000) give better fuel consumption then lower grade fuel, with riding style the same and all other factors the same for both?

Posted
Hi, New to this forum. Just got my s4 spec 1 few weeks back.

Totally agreed bro, riding relaxed is only possible late at night. I tried does this but cars overtaking me all the time. Dont feel safe this way. Rather stay away then be overtaken . spending bit more on fuel more worth than giving my life to those who don seem to check their mirrors/blindspots etc. haha

 

Got a ques for the bros here. Using high octane like ( shell v power and esso 8000) give better fuel consumption then lower grade fuel, with riding style the same and all other factors the same for both?

 

 

 

Depends

 

 

A lot factor to consider

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/346588-FAQ-and-Information-about-Honda-CB400-Revo-NC42

 

This link will help you.

 

Singapore riding condition is also different due to many stop & go intervals when encountering traffic jams thus higher FC.

 

Smaller front sproc or bigger rear sprocket results in better acceleration but lousy top end.

( Good for urban/city riding )

 

Bigger front sproc or smaller rear sproc results in better top end but slower acceleration.

( Good for touring or long journey trips, good for daily expressway users )

( This setup saves fuel as engine will not be that stress compared to urban setup when travelling on expressway)

 

Lube the chain personally so that can monitor the chain and tires condition at the same time.

Ensure that the chain is not too loose and has enough chain slack for smooth ride.

Please tighten the chain if necessary.

Yamaha RXZ, Kawasaki ZX KR150, Yamaha Spark135, Honda CB400 REVO NC42, Suzuki DRZ400SMK8, Aprilia RS125, Suzuki GSXR600K9, Honda RS150R

Click on the bike models for Information/Servicing/Maintenance on Kawasaki KR150, Honda CB400 Revo, Suzuki DRZ400SM and Suzuki GSXR

 

Facebook HONDA CB400 REVO

 

Can't post a new thread ?? Read HERE

 

SBF Garage Sales Act ---> Read HERE

Posted

As what Bro HaiR1 mentioned, a lot of factors pertaining to better FC.

 

Need to ease on the throttle to get better FC and proper maintenance of the bike to ensure performance.

Yamaha RXZ, Kawasaki ZX KR150, Yamaha Spark135, Honda CB400 REVO NC42, Suzuki DRZ400SMK8, Aprilia RS125, Suzuki GSXR600K9, Honda RS150R

Click on the bike models for Information/Servicing/Maintenance on Kawasaki KR150, Honda CB400 Revo, Suzuki DRZ400SM and Suzuki GSXR

 

Facebook HONDA CB400 REVO

 

Can't post a new thread ?? Read HERE

 

SBF Garage Sales Act ---> Read HERE

Posted
As what Bro HaiR1 mentioned, a lot of factors pertaining to better FC.

 

Need to ease on the throttle to get better FC and proper maintenance of the bike to ensure performance.

 

 

 

Yeah man..

 

:cheers:

 

 

 

1001 things to look out for.. List is never ending

Posted

My friend had buy a revo last Oct. He say when he start his bike his rpm go up to 2 after awhile drop to 1.5 isit normal

He went back to his workshop the mech say it normal.

 

FC is very bad.

1999-2000 LC125

2003-2003 KRR150

2003-2003 RXZ135

2004-2004 RVF400

2004-2007 VTEC2

2007-2008 RVF400

2012-????? RXZ135

Posted
My friend had buy a revo last Oct. He say when he start his bike his rpm go up to 2 after awhile drop to 1.5 isit normal

He went back to his workshop the mech say it normal.

 

FC is very bad.

 

 

 

Normal

 

All EFI bike will have auto choke when u cold start it..

 

Rpm will drop after a min or so, or when bike idling stable

 

 

Consumption varies.. 1001 reason can be the cause

Posted
are u ok? go bikeworkz?

 

Thanks for your concerns, quite a fair amount of abrasions and bruises but luckily nothing broken. Thanks for your suggestion I decided to put at PM and let Ah Chong handle it.

Posted
Wat is the rpm when warmup

And full tank petrol can go how much kms? ??

 

Rpm during warm up is 2k and will drop back to 1.4k

 

14litres I go around 280-290km.

 

Your FC bad is how bad?

how much km/L of fuel?

Yamaha RXZ, Kawasaki ZX KR150, Yamaha Spark135, Honda CB400 REVO NC42, Suzuki DRZ400SMK8, Aprilia RS125, Suzuki GSXR600K9, Honda RS150R

Click on the bike models for Information/Servicing/Maintenance on Kawasaki KR150, Honda CB400 Revo, Suzuki DRZ400SM and Suzuki GSXR

 

Facebook HONDA CB400 REVO

 

Can't post a new thread ?? Read HERE

 

SBF Garage Sales Act ---> Read HERE

Posted

By Bro HaiR1

 

 

Possible reason for bad fuel consumption :

 

 

-Airfilter (Dirty/ Clogged up)

 

-Spocket (Worn out/ Not standard size)

 

-Chain (Not lube/ Chain too slack/ tightened)

 

-Tyre (Worn out/ Incorrect Pressure) ( Wrong size)

 

-Tyre Valve (Leaking air)

 

-Wheel bearing (Not in good condition)

 

-Engine Oil (Wrong grade/ Due for change/ Too much)

 

-Carburetor (Air/ Fuel not balanced) (Jetting not stock)

 

-Fuel (Contaminated/ Low grade)

 

-Fuel line/ filter (Clogged)

 

-Meter (Inaccurate/ offset)

 

-Rider (MotoGP mood/ Fuel-conscious type)

 

-Clutch (Clutch plate/ spring worn out)

 

-Header Gasket (Worn out)

 

-Weight (Heavy luggage/ pillion/ rider)

 

-Idling (Too High/ low)

 

-Engine braking (Too much)

 

-Abrupt braking

 

-Hard acceleration

 

-Engine condition (TOO much to explain)

 

-Brake Caliper/ Brake pad (Brake Caliper piston jammed?/ not free)

 

-Improper suspension set-up (Too hard/ Too soft)

 

-Servicing (Do on time, dnt overdue)

 

-Idle too long (Waste petrol/ Engine hotter/ coolant affected unnecessary/ WaterPump work harder to maintain temperature)

 

Tats all I can think off, for now.

Yamaha RXZ, Kawasaki ZX KR150, Yamaha Spark135, Honda CB400 REVO NC42, Suzuki DRZ400SMK8, Aprilia RS125, Suzuki GSXR600K9, Honda RS150R

Click on the bike models for Information/Servicing/Maintenance on Kawasaki KR150, Honda CB400 Revo, Suzuki DRZ400SM and Suzuki GSXR

 

Facebook HONDA CB400 REVO

 

Can't post a new thread ?? Read HERE

 

SBF Garage Sales Act ---> Read HERE

Posted
By Bro HaiR1

 

 

Possible reason for bad fuel consumption :

 

 

-Airfilter (Dirty/ Clogged up)

 

-Spocket (Worn out/ Not standard size)

 

-Chain (Not lube/ Chain too slack/ tightened)

 

-Tyre (Worn out/ Incorrect Pressure) ( Wrong size)

 

-Tyre Valve (Leaking air)

 

-Wheel bearing (Not in good condition)

 

-Engine Oil (Wrong grade/ Due for change/ Too much)

 

-Carburetor (Air/ Fuel not balanced) (Jetting not stock)

 

-Fuel (Contaminated/ Low grade)

 

-Fuel line/ filter (Clogged)

 

-Meter (Inaccurate/ offset)

 

-Rider (MotoGP mood/ Fuel-conscious type)

 

-Clutch (Clutch plate/ spring worn out)

 

-Header Gasket (Worn out)

 

-Weight (Heavy luggage/ pillion/ rider)

 

-Idling (Too High/ low)

 

-Engine braking (Too much)

 

-Abrupt braking

 

-Hard acceleration

 

-Engine condition (TOO much to explain)

 

-Brake Caliper/ Brake pad (Brake Caliper piston jammed?/ not free)

 

-Improper suspension set-up (Too hard/ Too soft)

 

-Servicing (Do on time, dnt overdue)

 

-Idle too long (Waste petrol/ Engine hotter/ coolant affected unnecessary/ WaterPump work harder to maintain temperature)

 

Tats all I can think off, for now.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks man..

 

👍

Posted

Hi, a noob question here. is the revo still haf the "vtec" effect lyk spec 1-2 aft certain RPM ? and for revo haf what aftermarket pipe is legal. Thanks

Posted

Hi all,

 

Just get my spec3 around 1 month, 6.5 years bike, ~ 115k km mileage.

I have some doubt on issue below, may u share if u have idea on it. Thanks a lot.

1. Clunky gear shifting

I heard that shift from N to gear 1 have a rough clunky sound is a normal, But if hard acceleration and shifting to gear2 also feel very rough clunky. If carefully and slowly shift to gear 2, mostly it is smooth and comparable silent a lot. Shift to gear 3 is always rough clunky. Shift to gear 4 is same condition as shift to gear 2. But shift to gear 5 and 6 are quite silent and smooth every time. Down shifting to every gear is also smooth and silent. Is it normal? I checked with shop and colleague who ride high cc bike as well, they said is normal.

2. Vibration when rev to high rpm and didn't shift up the gear but release the throttle, sometimes vibration sometimes no, is it normal?

3. Encounter after start and warm up and engine, engine stall and bike move forward while shift up from N to gear 1. The clutch is pulled and havent released yet. Any advise?

Posted
Hi all,

 

Just get my spec3 around 1 month, 6.5 years bike, ~ 115k km mileage.

I have some doubt on issue below, may u share if u have idea on it. Thanks a lot.

1. Clunky gear shifting

I heard that shift from N to gear 1 have a rough clunky sound is a normal, But if hard acceleration and shifting to gear2 also feel very rough clunky. If carefully and slowly shift to gear 2, mostly it is smooth and comparable silent a lot. Shift to gear 3 is always rough clunky. Shift to gear 4 is same condition as shift to gear 2. But shift to gear 5 and 6 are quite silent and smooth every time. Down shifting to every gear is also smooth and silent. Is it normal? I checked with shop and colleague who ride high cc bike as well, they said is normal.

2. Vibration when rev to high rpm and didn't shift up the gear but release the throttle, sometimes vibration sometimes no, is it normal?

3. Encounter after start and warm up and engine, engine stall and bike move forward while shift up from N to gear 1. The clutch is pulled and havent released yet. Any advise?

 

All Hondas I've owned have clunky gear shift especially from neutral to 1st as you described. First try adjusting the clutch on the handlebar adjuster. If no success maybe the engine oil is not the correct grade i.e. too heavy like 20W50SAE, the spec 4 bike uses 10W30SAE. Try a fully synthetic oil of the correct grade for your bike stated in the owners handbook.

Honda CB400ABS Revo 2012

Honda CB400F 1976

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