DIY - STM Slippper clutch on DRZ400SM.

[Raptor]

First of all... you got to remove the original clutch assembly. Here is the breakdown of the OEM clutch assembly.

 

All items are replaced except for the following items which are used with the STM clutch. The bearing (#5), all the clutch plates (strongly recommended to use the OEM clutchplates) the push piece (#6) and the push rod (#18) and the spacer (#15)

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1416-1.jpg

 

The item listed at the bottom... is the special tool that comes with the kit.. it is a 30mm hex head. You will need a 30 mm socket to use this tool to tighten the nut which holds the whole slipper clutch assembly.

This the instructions phamplet that comes with the STM slippper clutch.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1417.jpg

[Raptor]

First loosen your clutch cable... give it plently of play.

 

Remove the rear brake lever and then the clutch cover ( 8 mm bolts). If you cannot do this... please ask a qualified mechanic to do the change out for you!!! :thumbsdn:

 

Remove the clutch housing cover carefully, so as not to damage the O ring.

With the cover off... remove the clutch springs assembly (Qty 6) using an allen key.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1418.jpg

 

Items #1 thru 6 and #18 will come out together with the clutch pressure plate.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1419.jpg

 

Remove the push piece (#6) and push rod (#18) from the clutch pressure plate.

NOTE: The bearing (#5) in the middle of the pressure plate needs to be transferred to the STM clutch.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1420.jpg

 

Push the locking tab of the lock washer(#11) away from the hub nut (#10) with a screwdriver.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1421.jpg

 

Remove the hub nut....

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1423.jpg

 

Remove the whole clutch hub (#14) with the clutch plates still seated within. Note the stacking of the clutch plates... the last clutch plate is installed one step off set from the rest.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1424.jpg

 

When you remove the whole clutch hub, this spacer (#15) is sitting behind it. Do not remove this spacer. If you fit the STM clutch without this spacer behind.. you can never change gears!!!!

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1425.jpg

[Raptor]

Put grease on the the six ramps of the hub and stick one ball bearing per ramp. Total of six ball bearings are supplied with the STM clutch.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1426.jpg

 

Place drum (on the right) over the hub..

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1427.jpg

 

Screw in an 8mm bolt (eg shroud bolt) to temporarily hold the assembly together http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1428.jpg

 

and fit the whole assembly to the drive shaft.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1429.jpg

 

Reinstall the clutch in the reverse sequence it was removed. Take note that the last clutch plate is installed one keyway offset from the rest of the pack.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1430.jpg

 

Install the black coloured drum stopper. Notice that the shapes are elliptical and the 2 pieces must fit into each other. Install the rest of the clutch in accordance with their instructions.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1431.jpg

 

This is the black coloured special tool (adapter) that comes with the slipper clutch. It is a 30mm hex head.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1433.jpg

 

Tighten the nut onto the drive axle using the special tool to 7 Nm of torque.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1434.jpg

 

Remove the bearing from the OEM clutch pressure plate and fit it onto the STM bearing rest. Make sure the bearing is fully seated.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1432.jpg

 

Oil and put back the push piece (#6) and push rod (#18) Then fit the STM bearing rest onto the whole assembly and tighten with the 6 allen key screws provided.

 

Do a test on the clutch... making sure it moves freely when the clutch lever is pulled.

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1435.jpg

 

Put back the clutch cover and rear foot brake lever.

Start the bike and adjust the clutch cable.

Check for oil leaks from the clutch cover.

[Raptor]

Find yourself an empty road, here it is a private road within a gated community...accelerate to about 80 - 90 kmh on 4th gear.

Simultaneously close the throttle, pull in the clutch and bang down 2 gears in quick succession, let go the clutch and start screaming like a schoolgirl when the rear steps out on a 30 metre slide.

 

To make the rear step out more... apply more front brakes.

 

Lean the bike over into the corner and start practicing how to back it in by regulating the amount of front brakes application!!!!!

 

No rear wheel hopping, no wild fishtailing... the STM slipper clutch rocks!!!

 

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1436.jpg

 

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1439.jpg

 

http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o104/angelo_neo/IMG_1440.jpg

[Guolong]

Very detailed pictures and explanations!

 

just curious, how do you measure 7Nm of torque? Rough estimation?

[e_gen_e]

there's a tool call 'torque wrench' which u can get from hardware shop. it's like any other wrench, just that it comes with a meter for u to gauge/measure the amount of torque u want. cheers!

[Raptor]

Very detailed pictures and explanations!

 

just curious, how do you measure 7Nm of torque? Rough estimation?

 

The wrench I was using in the pics is a torque wrench, a critical equipment which our local bike shops don't use. It has both torquing values in ft/lbs and Metre/Kg. 7Nm equals to about 52 foot/lbs.

 

The purpose of a torque wrench is to ensure that the bolts or nuts are tightened to the correct loads, which is below the shear loads of the material strength of the attaching hardware.

 

Overtorquing or overtightening may result in sheared bolts, something you don't want happening whilst on the road.

 

PS - Thanks for the compliments. To me... a picture paints a thousand words. DIY posts should always have pictures attached or else they sometimes make very little sense to the reader.

 

Ride safe.

[Guolong]

Thanks for the extra information and the prompt reply!

[Terrible One]

The wrench I was using in the pics is a torque wrench, a critical equipment which our local bike shops don't use. It has both torquing values in ft/lbs and Metre/Kg. 7Nm equals to about 52 foot/lbs.

 

 

Which is sad cos even bicycle shops use them.. And motorcycle shops works on bikes that cost thousand of dollars doesn't.. Great article!!

[Phang]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/64685536-M.gifhttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/64685536-M.gifhttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/64685536-M.gif

[oOQiangOo]

nice one man..

[Refugee]

Dear Raptor....

 

is it possible to see that powerslide in video format?

[Raptor]

Dear Raptor....

 

is it possible to see that powerslide in video format?

 

Haha... I wish I could show you too. But the trouble is.. the slide I am doing now... is sadly everything but graceful like the way its suppose to be done.

 

My track background is on sportsbikes... and sliding like that into a corner is a big no no for sportsbike... which only happens when braking points are missed and panic sets in.

 

This is something very new to me... I have alot more practice to go. My first obstacle that I have to mentally overcome is the in built reaction to pull in the clutch when I feel the rear sliding out, not just me... everybody is like that.

 

The slipper clutch has allowed me to have a controllable, ie a slide that I want to initiate versus one that I am not ready for.

 

On a standard clutch... you let it out too fast, you can wheel hop or worse, end up in a total rearwheel wash out, meaning you got to learn how to feather the clutch out gently... too much and you lock the rear...too little and the rear wheel will not slide.

 

With the slipper clutch... you just let the clutch lever go and the bike starts to slide in a predictable manner.

 

I think my bike in the hands of a motocrosser could probably do more than I am able to make it do now.. they are comfortable with rear wheel slides, not a road racer.

 

Thats what made me fall in love with supermotards... its a mix of 2 different riding disciplines.

 

Can you imagine what its like if both disciplines can be mastered?

[Fazli]

Bro, just curious...

 

Wats that red thingy ard your Yoshi?

 

c",)

 

Faz

[HelmetBOX1605198525]

Bro, just curious...

 

Wats that red thingy ard your Yoshi?

 

c",)

 

Faz

 

i think it a exhaust slider..

[Raptor]

i think it a exhaust slider..

 

Yep.

 

Made by Advanced Performance Accessories.

[TooToo7]

The wrench I was using in the pics is a torque wrench, a critical equipment which our local bike shops don't use.

 

Which is sad cos even bicycle shops use them.. And motorcycle shops works on bikes that cost thousand of dollars doesn't.. Great article!!

 

Local bikeshops do use torque wrench. Maybe you didn't see it. Or has been visiting the wrong shops.