[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

[mastera7x]

mastera7x.....apa lagi....GO!!!!!!

 

Depend on the bike... If you really want to buy a pulsar, the onli way i can help is, help u talk to UM. see if they can sell u lower than 2.7K or either 2.7k OTR. plus help u inspect the bike. In a nut shell.... confrim cheaper that that "UG1" with no hidden cost.

 

 

 

woah... thanks .. will pmed you in a short while regarding whats the package is all about... anyway...

 

I'll text you when the time comes... need to 're-consult' the matter again...

 

[halid83]

I think what goofy means is that, you told us about the excuse you gave to your friend for rejecting his offer, and your friend might get to know it by reading this forum.

 

There will be vibrations on most bikes, but it should not affect the handling until you have problem balancing.

 

Pulsar might need a bit of getting used to in the beginning because of its weight. It is one of the heaviest 2B bike around. But once you are used to the weight, you will feel much more in control.

 

Pulsar is one of the more stable 2B naked bike due to its weight and rear tire size. You are more likely seen on the road because of the bigger bike size.

 

If you have not ridden constantly since getting your license, you will feel wobbly and have no confidence when you start to ride again. It is normal. You should be able to get through that phase within a day or two.

 

 

:cheers:

 

Agree with the weight thing. when a pulsar fuel tank is full...it'll take strength to push around!!

[Lanzer]

Cameron Highland - SBF 1st Tour for 2B bikers 8 to 11 August 2008

 

For anyone who are interested :

 

Travelling Speed Avg : 90-110km/h on NSH ; 80km/h or less on mountain roads.

Distance To & Fro : 1500km (Please have enough ringgit for your petrol RM2.70/L)

Every bound will be less than 100km before rest and refuel.

[WeiCong]

That's the ground wire. Tony didn't connect it to anything cos according to him, it's not necessary.

 

Nemesis was able to reduce the sensitivity level of my bike alarm by taping the green wire to the inner side of the right tailboard. The alarm unit was placed in such a way that it is secure so that it does not shift when there's movement of the bike. Now I'm able to move my handlebar from side to side without setting the alarm off (as long as there's no force transferred to the tailboard). Result may vary from bike to bike.

 

Will post pic ASAP.

 

okok thanks, cos that day i go UM to check my headlight as there is some problem so i do a whole bike servicing also then found that this wire is outside so i worry whether izzit drop out.. I'll try also after u post..

 

Bro nemesis & bro lindavw, my headlight is due to the bulb problem after i change bulb problem solve liao.. thanks for the advise..

 

Cheers,

[kano]

hello bros, I just recieved my pulsar from UMPL today somemore at peak hours. And i lost my way to work!! I just passed my TP last thursday so p plater here. Any pulsarians live in sengkang here?

[lindavw]

Bro, about the ground wire issue that Tony say no need to connect, unless another ground wire is connected to the battery -Ve, there will be a floating ground problem.

 

It will be a kind of on and off thing, happening at random. Where there are 2 ground potentials in a system, you will get different voltage potentials in the system, getting weird behaviour from the system randomly. Especially a very sensitive input to the system.

 

I think the first thing that your might want to try is connect that black wire with a ring to any metal bolt on the bike frame. This should help with some of the sensitive issues.

 

All the while I was thinking how this alarm is so sensitive. If all of your alarms are installed with the ground wire, it could be the cause of some of the sensitivity issues with the alarm.

 

I hope someone connects up the ground wire and see if the alarm stabilize.

 

:cheers:

 

Firstly, the manual of the alarm did give a diagram of wat wire to wat wire connection to the bike. The diagram is inaccurate. For those that have this manual pls clarify that the diagram stated an LED to be present. but on the module of this alarm 10 pcs i have installed so far there was no LED. only a black wire which i presume should be the ground for the LED existed only.

 

Secondly, if there is a floating ground problem, the sensitivity would have been less sensitive or even not responsive at all as ground is floated, the circuit doesnt close properly or doesnt even close. Hence the floating ground prob doesnt not exist in this case since all the alarm are over sensitive.

 

Thirdly, the sensitivity wire is a GREEN wire that is looped. this particular loop is connected to a spring n snap disc inside the module of the alarm. Any shock wave or vibration sensed by the GREEN wire will translate into piezometric scale sensing to the spring and snap disc which will then activate the alarm.If the alarm can sound means there is no prob wif the grounding, instead the sensitivity wire should be looked into in detail.

 

Fourly, shock sensor alarm run on 14VDC. there is no LED on +- 3VDC and manufacturer usually have the ground line on the PCB travelling on a single line. Not connecting the BLACK wire presuming was for the LED do not make any differences non connecting this BLACK wire and not connecting the other ground wire make any difference. 14VDC and 3VDC even a floating ground exists, the prob will not be obvious enuff to appear, unless in a 230VAC and 14 VDC component grounding.

 

Lastly, I have only simple basic electrical knowledge which i deemed enuff to open another module of a similiar alarm n study its PCB and components inside and understand how shock alarms wif a sensitivity wire works.

 

I could be wrong in not connecting that particular grounding wire. But please explain y does the floating ground prob exists in a voltage potential drop of merely 2 VDC. It doesnt make any sense to me an alarm being over sensitive due to a floating ground problem, instead the alarm should be the least sensitive if a floating ground problem existed.

 

 

Please Advice.

[Nemesis]

hmmm...

 

A person with basic knowledge can came up with so much thing to benifit the pulsar community... WELL DONE... hope you keep up the good work, con't benfit the pulsar community with more R&D.

[lindavw]

hmmm...

 

A person with basic knowledge can came up with so much thing to benifit the pulsar community... WELL DONE... hope you keep up the good work, con't benefit the pulsar community with more R&D.

 

ya thanks huh. but i think other things like carb washing n tuning, changing of brake pads n shoe DIY will not happen.. cos KNN install alarm until now i backache liaoz. its time to find another DIY person to take over.

[Nemesis]

Alarm sensitivity UPDATE II

 

Just now, I have R&D on two bikes. This is the result. UG2 and UG3

 

UG3, onli connect the earth cable while,

UG2's green wire had been snipped into two pcs. (NO TRIMMING)

 

Result (I travel and zoom past these two bike...)

 

UG3 alarm went off

 

UG2 alarm never went off....

 

Conclusion.....

 

The earth cable is optional. My bike is config the same as the above UG3 test bike.. still when bike went past, the alarm went off...

 

 

how to do....

 

Sniped the green wire in the center. from there u get 2 pcs of green wires... one pcs, tap it to the chassis of the bike. 2nd pcs, just leave it as it is.

 

Neverthe less, we can wait for feeback from WEICONG. I will con't to test it. most likely confirmation will be out by monday.

[Nemesis]

ya thanks huh. but i think other things like carb washing n tuning, changing of brake pads n shoe DIY will not happen.. cos KNN install alarm until now i backache liaoz. its time to find another DIY person to take over.

 

Dun think so.... hard to find a guy with such calibrate to do such thing....

 

NOW THINK BACK.... what u have done.....

 

1) stay whole nite under the blk to R&D the cheapest way of installing hazard light...

 

2) STAY up WHole nite to research how to install alarm for a whole week without anyone assist....

 

3) R&D and solved the remote start .while the whole industry said no to remote start for our bike.

 

4) R&D a second version of timer which 3 time smaller.

 

this is ur achivement. congrat....

[Nemesis]

ya thanks huh. but i think other things like carb washing n tuning, changing of brake pads n shoe DIY will not happen.. cos KNN install alarm until now i backache liaoz. its time to find another DIY person to take over.

 

hmmm.... maybe WE shld start pooling some cash and send out chief mech for a massage session :cheeky:

[Nemesis]

IMHO, I think that whether to connect the black cable or not is not important... what is most important is that the whole alarm unit is being install on the bike... the earth cable, we can install ourselve.. rite guys ?

 

:cheer:

[warhorse6901]

To all who have give me advise, thanks!!

 

And I want to know one more thing regarding the fuel tank:

 

a)When will I have to switch to the reserve fuel?? Isit when there is no more bars on the fuel indicator or when the fuel red light indicator is on??

 

 

b)Should I put back the switch to normal before or after I have top up to full tank??

 

Pls advise. Thanks.

[Roadrunner71]

a)When will I have to switch to the reserve fuel?? Isit when there is no more bars on the fuel indicator or when the fuel red light indicator is on??

The fuel gauge can be inaccurate/misleading. When ur main fuel runs out, the bike will jerk/stutter. Pull over, then the engine will stop running. Turn the knob to RESERVE position. Wait for a few sec. Then re-crank.

b)Should I put back the switch to normal before or after I have top up to full tank??

Either, cos no difference. U can even ride with the knob turned to the RESERVE position at all times.

 

The 'main' tank and the 'reserve' tank are actually the same tank, but there are two outlets through which the fuel may leave. One outlet is located above the other. When the fuel knob is set to the ON position, the fuel will flow from the upper hole, and will stop flowing when the fuel level gets below the upper hole. When the knob is turned to the RESERVE position, the lower hole will be used, which allows abt another 2L of fuel to be drawn from the bottom of the tank.

 

So if u ride with the knob turned to the RESERVE position at all times, this simply allows u to deplete the main fuel supply as well as the reserve. This causes no harm, except that u may run out of fuel without warning.

[spaiduhz]

It takes just one hand for you to turn to reserve. an indicator that you are about to enter reserve is when your RPM suddenly drops, and your bike starts to splutter from the sudden increase in AFR (air-fuel ratio).

 

when that happens, you can use your simply turn the tap while you are still going.

 

by then, you would probably have about 2 liters of usable petrol or so in your tank. that would translate to 60-100km left of millage, depending on your riding habits.

 

for me, i need to turn the reserve a little after the red light comes up.

[lindavw]

hmmm.... maybe WE shld start pooling some cash and send out chief mech for a massage session :cheeky:

 

thanks la... no need to. think should relax abit from the forum and have more time to myself to find a gf muahahahahahaha.

[joajas]

Firstly, the manual of the alarm did give a diagram of wat wire to wat wire connection to the bike. The diagram is inaccurate. For those that have this manual pls clarify that the diagram stated an LED to be present. but on the module of this alarm 10 pcs i have installed so far there was no LED. only a black wire which i presume should be the ground for the LED existed only.

 

Led is an added on component, it just needs the alarm to give you a 2-pin connector, on +v and one ground. If the connector is part of the wiring harness, you can add an led yourself if it is not included in the package. Usually the ground cable will have a label to say it is the ground cable for the alarm.

 

Secondly, if there is a floating ground problem, the sensitivity would have been less sensitive or even not responsive at all as ground is floated, the circuit doesnt close properly or doesnt even close. Hence the floating ground prob doesnt not exist in this case since all the alarm are over sensitive.

 

When there is no solid reference point for the voltage, a +12v might not be a +12v in the alarm. In a floating ground situation, the shock sensor will not be a problem but the input to the controller chip that is connected to the sensor might become more/less sensitive to voltage fluctuations.

 

 

Thirdly, the sensitivity wire is a GREEN wire that is looped. this particular loop is connected to a spring n snap disc inside the module of the alarm. Any shock wave or vibration sensed by the GREEN wire will translate into piezometric scale sensing to the spring and snap disc which will then activate the alarm.If the alarm can sound means there is no prob wif the grounding, instead the sensitivity wire should be looked into in detail.

 

In a floating ground situation, we do not know the actual ground potential, it is still possible for the alarm to sound/trigger. Yes, the green loop wire should be looked into in detail. Typically the green wire is not left hanging as any wind blow might be enough to trigger the system, hence an improvement is seen when the wire is taped to the bike frame. If you tape the green wire securely from the point it comes out from the main unit, sensitivity can be greatly reduced.

 

Fourly, shock sensor alarm run on 14VDC. there is no LED on +- 3VDC and manufacturer usually have the ground line on the PCB travelling on a single line. Not connecting the BLACK wire presuming was for the LED do not make any differences non connecting this BLACK wire and not connecting the other ground wire make any difference. 14VDC and 3VDC even a floating ground exists, the prob will not be obvious enuff to appear, unless in a 230VAC and 14 VDC component grounding.

 

The positive voltage for the led comes from the pcb, typically in pulses generated by the controller. The negative leg of the led has to go to the common ground on the pcb for the voltage to reference to correctly. If not you might observe erratic behaviour of the pulses.

 

Lastly, I have only simple basic electrical knowledge which i deemed enuff to open another module of a similiar alarm n study its PCB and components inside and understand how shock alarms wif a sensitivity wire works.

 

I have total confidence in your electrical knowledge. I am just trying to narrow down possibilities that might be causing the sensitivity issue. I hope you are not upset by my comments as they are not targeted at you.

 

I could be wrong in not connecting that particular grounding wire. But please explain y does the floating ground prob exists in a voltage potential drop of merely 2 VDC. It doesnt make any sense to me an alarm being over sensitive due to a floating ground problem, instead the alarm should be the least sensitive if a floating ground problem existed.

 

In a floating ground situation, the electrons are not flowing back to a single reference point. Therefore a supposed 2v might actually not be 2v depending on what potential it is referenced to. Usually the controller is either waiting for a positive voltage or a zero voltage to trigger depending on its design. In a floating ground situation, the voltage on the input pin might be very close to the triggering voltage, hence any small fluctuation on the input pin might trigger off the alarm.

 

 

Please Advice.

 

 

I have come across this kind of behaviour before during my work ( i am involved in designing circuits for alarm systems used in data comm systems), that is why I suggested connecting up the ground cable. It is just to reduce whatever possibilities causing instability to the design. Whether it solves the problem depends on whether no grounding is the main cause of the problem

 

Please don't get too upset over my comments, as they are for viewing only. We are all here to learn something, and at the same time share what we know. If my knowledge is flawed, please feel free to correct my mistakes.

 

I do not have access to the actual alarm unit therefore I cannot test out the real cause. My alarm that I am using is the SPY 2-way alarm, and I believe the design concept is not the same as the RD008 one. I am offering my views as a fellow rider and I have no intention of making anyone upset over my views.

 

Here the link to your alarm manufacturer.

http://china-rd.cn/d9caa6e02c990b0a/2-67-0-0.htm

 

 

:cheers:

[SuVespa]

Linda and jo...tx to you guys now all of us noe a thing or two abt electricals

 

Bought the wheel hub for 35 and rubber damper for 10.5 so total 45.5

[Roadrunner71]

Bought the wheel hub for 35 and rubber damper for 10.5 so total 45.5

Let me know when u going to AGL to replace ur hub n sprocket. Wanna change both my sprockets n chain. Any day is fine as long as the next day is not a sch day. But no need to make any special accomodation for me lah

[lindavw]

Firstly, the manual of the alarm did give a diagram of wat wire to wat wire connection to the bike. The diagram is inaccurate. For those that have this manual pls clarify that the diagram stated an LED to be present. but on the module of this alarm 10 pcs i have installed so far there was no LED. only a black wire which i presume should be the ground for the LED existed only.

 

Led is an added on component, it just needs the alarm to give you a 2-pin connector, on +v and one ground. If the connector is part of the wiring harness, you can add an led yourself if it is not included in the package. Usually the ground cable will have a label to say it is the ground cable for the alarm.

 

No LED is included in the package and no labelling on the wires stated for LED or watever.Yes i agree an LED can be added but a resistor have to be wired to it as well.

 

Secondly, if there is a floating ground problem, the sensitivity would have been less sensitive or even not responsive at all as ground is floated, the circuit doesnt close properly or doesnt even close. Hence the floating ground prob doesnt not exist in this case since all the alarm are over sensitive.

 

When there is no solid reference point for the voltage, a +12v might not be a +12v in the alarm. In a floating ground situation, the shock sensor will not be a problem but the input to the controller chip that is connected to the sensor might become more/less sensitive to voltage fluctuations.

 

Yes no solid reference point, but how do we noe if there isn't any diode inside to stablise the current? Even in a floating ground situation, shouldnt the alarm be less sensitive as the "controller" chip is not fully grounded?

 

Thirdly, the sensitivity wire is a GREEN wire that is looped. this particular loop is connected to a spring n snap disc inside the module of the alarm. Any shock wave or vibration sensed by the GREEN wire will translate into piezometric scale sensing to the spring and snap disc which will then activate the alarm.If the alarm can sound means there is no prob wif the grounding, instead the sensitivity wire should be looked into in detail.

 

In a floating ground situation, we do not know the actual ground potential, it is still possible for the alarm to sound/trigger. Yes, the green loop wire should be looked into in detail. Typically the green wire is not left hanging as any wind blow might be enough to trigger the system, hence an improvement is seen when the wire is taped to the bike frame. If you tape the green wire securely from the point it comes out from the main unit, sensitivity can be greatly reduced.

 

From the way the alarm is mounted in the bike it is almost impossible to tape the green wire from the point it comes out to the end of it. So can you advise the bros in here where n how ur alarm is mounted? n does ur spy2 alarm have any green wire like this one?

 

Fourly, shock sensor alarm run on 14VDC. there is no LED on +- 3VDC and manufacturer usually have the ground line on the PCB travelling on a single line. Not connecting the BLACK wire presuming was for the LED do not make any differences non connecting this BLACK wire and not connecting the other ground wire make any difference. 14VDC and 3VDC even a floating ground exists, the prob will not be obvious enuff to appear, unless in a 230VAC and 14 VDC component grounding.

 

The positive voltage for the led comes from the pcb, typically in pulses generated by the controller. The negative leg of the led has to go to the common ground on the pcb for the voltage to reference to correctly. If not you might observe erratic behaviour of the pulses.

 

As I stated before the manual is crap there is an LED RED wire coming out but on the actual module of the alarm there is no red wire, hence can we assume that there is no positive voltage for the black wire to be grounded? erratic behaviour of the pulses as in wat? the alarm suddenly sounding off for no particular reason?

 

Lastly, I have only simple basic electrical knowledge which i deemed enuff to open another module of a similiar alarm n study its PCB and components inside and understand how shock alarms wif a sensitivity wire works.

 

I have total confidence in your electrical knowledge. I am just trying to narrow down possibilities that might be causing the sensitivity issue. I hope you are not upset by my comments as they are not targeted at you.

 

I am not upset over the comments made by you but to say that a floating ground prob could have existed in a 12VDC circuit with no other variable voltages in the same circuit doesnt make sense to me. So according to ur suggestion to connect the other wire which i left untouched could make some differences, seems abit weird cos the problem diagnosed is the sensitivity and not erratic or sudden alarm sounding.

 

I could be wrong in not connecting that particular grounding wire. But please explain y does the floating ground prob exists in a voltage potential drop of merely 2 VDC. It doesnt make any sense to me an alarm being over sensitive due to a floating ground problem, instead the alarm should be the least sensitive if a floating ground problem existed.

 

In a floating ground situation, the electrons are not flowing back to a single reference point. Therefore a supposed 2v might actually not be 2v depending on what potential it is referenced to. Usually the controller is either waiting for a positive voltage or a zero voltage to trigger depending on its design. In a floating ground situation, the voltage on the input pin might be very close to the triggering voltage, hence any small fluctuation on the input pin might trigger off the alarm.

 

Yes i understand wat u r getting at. But the prob now is the alarm sounds only at the slightest vibration. If a floating ground do exists, wun the alarm ring non stop instead of detecting the vibrations? your so called controller is either waiting for the signal either +V or 0V, then please advice what is the spring n snap disc for?

 

Please Advice.

 

 

I have come across this kind of behaviour before during my work ( i am involved in designing circuits for alarm systems used in data comm systems), that is why I suggested connecting up the ground cable. It is just to reduce whatever possibilities causing instability to the design. Whether it solves the problem depends on whether no grounding is the main cause of the problem

 

Please don't get too upset over my comments, as they are for viewing only. We are all here to learn something, and at the same time share what we know. If my knowledge is flawed, please feel free to correct my mistakes.

 

I do not have access to the actual alarm unit therefore I cannot test out the real cause. My alarm that I am using is the SPY 2-way alarm, and I believe the design concept is not the same as the RD008 one. I am offering my views as a fellow rider and I have no intention of making anyone upset over my views.

 

Here the link to your alarm manufacturer.

http://china-rd.cn/d9caa6e02c990b0a/2-67-0-0.htm

 

May i ask if the alarm circuits u designed have actually 2 or more difference circuits within which may require 2 or more grounding points? Instability to the system is profound, can you give a more detail description instead? etc the alarm rings now n then? take a long time to responds or is it over sensitive where neighbouring vibrations/shockwave hits it reasonance freq?

Dun worry no one is upset over ur comments or suggestion. We are exchanging views only. You could be right n I could have been wrong is juz an enlightenment session here for the benefit of the other pple who is interested in the alarm. The link u gave someone has to verify cos Im oso not using the speaking alarm. hahahaha

 

:cheer: :cheer:

:cheers:

[stanco]

thanks la... no need to. think should relax abit from the forum and have more time to myself to find a gf muahahahahahaha.

 

don't do that please! later you end up staying at home and play psp only. =x

 

[warhorse6901]

The fuel gauge can be inaccurate/misleading. When ur main fuel runs out, the bike will jerk/stutter. Pull over, then the engine will stop running. Turn the knob to RESERVE position. Wait for a few sec. Then re-crank.

 

Either, cos no difference. U can even ride with the knob turned to the RESERVE position at all times.

 

The 'main' tank and the 'reserve' tank are actually the same tank, but there are two outlets through which the fuel may leave. One outlet is located above the other. When the fuel knob is set to the ON position, the fuel will flow from the upper hole, and will stop flowing when the fuel level gets below the upper hole. When the knob is turned to the RESERVE position, the lower hole will be used, which allows abt another 2L of fuel to be drawn from the bottom of the tank.

 

So if u ride with the knob turned to the RESERVE position at all times, this simply allows u to deplete the main fuel supply as well as the reserve. This causes no harm, except that u may run out of fuel without warning.

 

It takes just one hand for you to turn to reserve. an indicator that you are about to enter reserve is when your RPM suddenly drops, and your bike starts to splutter from the sudden increase in AFR (air-fuel ratio).

 

when that happens, you can use your simply turn the tap while you are still going.

 

by then, you would probably have about 2 liters of usable petrol or so in your tank. that would translate to 60-100km left of millage, depending on your riding habits.

 

for me, i need to turn the reserve a little after the red light comes up.

 

 

Thanks a lot bruders!!! This is really valuable information.

[mastera7x]

Nemesis... thanks for the info given to me...

 

even though I don't get much of what you said.. but i understand here and there ar...

 

haa...

 

hmm yearh... I'm just sorting out something about the downpayment .. whether is there any cash back ... if decide to withdraw from it...

 

should be contacting you again in the next few days about the pulssssar...

 

[joajas]

When there is no solid reference point for the voltage, a +12v might not be a +12v in the alarm. In a floating ground situation, the shock sensor will not be a problem but the input to the controller chip that is connected to the sensor might become more/less sensitive to voltage fluctuations.

 

 

Depending on what kind of diode you are talking about, but diode generally are not used to stabilize current. They are used to guide electrons to the path that you want it to go, or block electrons to paths that you do not want it to go to. Sensitivity to the controller need not be less sensitive, it can be either normal, more sensitive or less sensitive, depending on the floating reference level at the point in time.

 

 

That is just an example of reducing the sensitivity, if the sensor is operating in the way you described. Spy 2-way uses a potentiometer to change the sensitivity level of the shock sensor.

 

 

 

As with most china made alarms, I noticed that the same wiring diagram is being used across different brands of alarms. I bet if we were to compare your manual and mine, we will see the same wiring diagram on both. The black wire should be going into the ground rail of the alarm's power supply. Unless that black wire is totally isolated from any connections in the PCB, then it makes no sense to connect that black wire as it goes to no where. Erratic as in unstable brightness or not turning on at all. Alarm sounding off for no particular reason can happen but it will be a random kind of symptom.

 

 

 

 

The alarm system does not solely run on 12vdc, most likely the RF components are running on 3vdc. There might be more than 1 voltage logic in the system, you really have to take out the main PCB to check on that. My SPY 2-way has at least 2 voltage logic levels in it. One is 12vdc and another is 3vdc. I am not sure if there is a 5vdc for the other ICs involved as I did not check on that.

 

I am suggesting ground as a possible cause and not the only cause.

 

 

We do not need a particular impact force to activate an unstable system, any induction (interference) can cause the alarm to trigger.

 

A controller is a digital device, it is either a 1 or 0 at its inputs. Outputs from a sensor can be analog, usually goes through an amplifying circuit and converted to digital logics for the controller to understand.

 

I have not seen the type of shock sensor used in the RD008, Spy is using this http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n426/joajas/DSC01871-1.jpg

 

It is using electromagnetism as a trigger.

 

 

So far the systems that I have been involved in designing, uses 12vdc, 5vdc and 230vac as power source. Each has its own reference points which as eventually brought together to a common reference that is the Earth point. In the initial stage of design, during testing, one of the ground points of the trigger portion was not brought to the common ground. That cause hell lot of a problem, as the system would trigger for no reason. A light touch to the trigger contacts also cause the system to go into alarm mode. We spent hours troubleshooting, and found a ground point not brought to the common ground. After bringing this point to common, the system became very stable.

 

One final point and I hope we can close this discussion as it is getting out of topic. When we connect a +12v to the alarm, we need to give it a 0v ground aka return path (battery -ve terminal). The alarm is designed to work in a max +15v potential difference environment. If we do not give it a solid 0v ground (return path), the ground point will be floating. It can be 0v, +?v, or -?v caused by many possible reasons, one being induction.

 

For example, at a certain point in time a if a -2v develops at the ground point for whatever reason. With the engine off, battery +ve usually has +12.8v. +12.8v to -2v there will be a total of +14.8v potential difference in the system. Turn on the engine and rev, we can get over +13v. Coupled with the -2v at ground point, we could be over the voltage limit of the design, this can potentially damage the components.

 

If instead of -2v, we have a +2v at ground point, when engine is off, we could be getting only +10.8v of potential difference in the system. After voltage drops at various points in the system, some components might not be getting enough voltage to drive it, causing the whole system to be unstable.

 

This might not be the cause of the problem that everyone is facing, but it can be a problem given the right conditions. Simply saying,, it is a time bomb waiting to explode.

 

Giving the system a solid ground reference, we can eliminate this probable issue in future and ensure that the alarm functions reliably.

:cheers:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_(electricity)

Taken from the URL above:

Voltage is a differential quantity, which appears between two points having some electrical potentials. To measure the voltage of a single point, a reference point must be selected to measure against. This common reference point is called ground and considered to have zero voltage. This signal ground may or may not actually be connected to a power ground. A system where the system ground is not actually connected to another circuit or to earth (though there may still be AC coupling) is often referred to as a floating ground.

 

Something for everyone's reading pleasure: http://www.ese.upenn.edu/rca/instruments/misctutorials/Ground/grd.html

[joajas]

Wah seh, type so much until finger numb

 

:D

 

lindavw, can provide a photo of the sensor and maybe let me know the concept of the sensor as in how it is activated to trigger the main unit?

 

:D