[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

[harumonia]

Dont trust the fuel indicator, it's not reliable, likes to play mind tricks :

0

use the trip meter to calculate your mileage : rest it to 0 after you fill the tank up and let your bike go until you run out of gaz. Don't worry, you'll still have about 2L of reserve to fall on.

Of course if you don;t want to experience the complete stop of the engine while riding, you can refill the tank before that but you'll never know exactly how much a full tank lasts.

Me I usually drag it beyond the red light when the tank is low on fuel, until I feel like I've been playing with fire too much and I go pump.

I'm sure in your case you did not pump 20L and you could've gone much further than 510km !

 

By the way how do I switch the fuel to reserve when the engine turns off in the middle of the road? Do I have to reach under and turn the fuel tap upwards?

 

I hope it is okay to do this in the middle of the road while still rolling.

[arthur_chan]

hi arthur,

 

thanks for your comments..."no pulsar has ever clocked 20L of fuel"....honestly i paid S$26.80 after getting it filled at a fuel station near anchorage(opposite ikea).....

 

so your suggesting that i should get the gearbox and clutch plate etc checked??

 

unless ur SG fuel is @ S$1.34/L, then that's really unbelieveable. est @ S$1.7/L, u've only pumped 15-16L then prob + 2L plus reserve adds to about 18L, so no u dont have a 20L fuel tank. we have record of 19L + a bit, and i've personally topped close to 19L, that's a dry tank to the brim. or perhaps u got a leaky tank?

 

u can still use ur clutch if it's able to kick, however if it gets too stuffy, better change, u wont want a stuck gear in the mid of traffic. another thing u may consider is changing engine oil if u haven't done so, that could be the cause, if it doesn't help, then it's the clutch plates. u dont have to chg immed, just take note. going to UM for servicing and the mechanic will tell u more. hard for us to really know the cause without actually feeling it.

[arthur_chan]

Hello anybody wanto get LED matt black signal light, let me know b`cos I wanto do a mass order and we can all share the shipping cost.

take note if u're using bulb signal, chg to led will make the flicker very fast, u'll need to install a relay to counter this problem.

[arthur_chan]

By the way how do I switch the fuel to reserve when the engine turns off in the middle of the road? Do I have to reach under and turn the fuel tap upwards?

 

I hope it is okay to do this in the middle of the road while still rolling.

 

it's advisable when ur fuel goes to red zone, switch to reserve. u can turn the knob in the mid of road when u feel ur throttling losing power, however it require skill, i'll advise to try out in carpark b4 u really do it, however if u fall dont blame me, i always do it dont mean u can too. there's a risk that if u turn too late, ur engine could die, so u need to consider that also and react to it. again my advise, dont try unless u know what u're doing, and dont quote me teaching u bad things, i've warned you.

[harumonia]

it's advisable when ur fuel goes to red zone, switch to reserve. u can turn the knob in the mid of road when u feel ur throttling losing power, however it require skill, i'll advise to try out in carpark b4 u really do it, however if u fall dont blame me, i always do it dont mean u can too. there's a risk that if u turn too late, ur engine could die, so u need to consider that also and react to it. again my advise, dont try unless u know what u're doing, and dont quote me teaching u bad things, i've warned you.

 

Haha okay. I go try.

 

I don't trust my low fuel red light indicator. Sometimes it comes on and sometimes it goes off as the fuel gauge jumps up or down. Think I'll just ride til throttle loses power and turn the knob to reserve.

[Brandonwang]

take note if u're using bulb signal, chg to led will make the flicker very fast, u'll need to install a relay to counter this problem.

 

Yup noted thanx u.

Nobody interested?

[alvinyansg]

Haha okay. I go try.

 

I don't trust my low fuel red light indicator. Sometimes it comes on and sometimes it goes off as the fuel gauge jumps up or down. Think I'll just ride til throttle loses power and turn the knob to reserve.

 

ride till you fell your bike is losing power when you throttle

it feels like choking,trying to suck in air

means fuel low on your main tank

if you on the road and knows how to do it you can just close throttle and turn the knob to reserve then throttle a bit more

don't quote me teaching you to do that on the road

but thats what i will do

[alvinyansg]

SIAN SIAN SIAN:cry::cry:

changed phone and tried copying my contacts through outlook

then don't know what happen outlook deleted all my email account contacts:cry::cry:

[revhappy]

Stumbled upon this link which has a complete list Pulsar 180 Ug3 Parts price list. But prices are in South African Rand

 

http://www.jonway.co.za/export/sites/jonway/spares/bajaj/Bajaj_180_Pulsar_UG3.pdf

[ORen]

since u got two 5, can u test out the other pin to accessory, i believe it's 87A?

1)what i can suggest, take out the whole thing, just connect 86 n 85 to the term of ur battery, i believe pos or neg not important, use ur multimeter test out 30 and 87/87A. this will confirm if the relay is spoilt if there's no connection.

2)if above succeed, take the 86 n 85 from lic plate to neg of battery, test out the same point again, if succed, all's well

 

from your diagram, i couldn't make out if there's any indication of which leg is what pin.

the concern why i think the lic plate might not work is because of the AC current.

 

When I put the accessory to the other 87 pin, it lights up as soon as the battery is connected. Meaning the relay works and turns the switch ON. Which means that it's the switched power source that's not doing its job.

 

The bloody license plate light AND signal lights AND tail light don't give me 12V. None of them.

Signal lights show 4 mV, license plate and tail light wires give me 300-400 mV. So I don't know if this means it's AC or it just means that our bike unlike all other bikes people DIY stuff on, well, don't have normal rear lights current.

 

Out of curiosity, I went to the headlight socket, brown wire. it gives me 12V.

I'm just too tired now to go and really test the whole thing again with the headlight power source, will see tomorrow morning, but it should work if Shadow's dark spirits don't come out to play again...

Edited November 19, 2010 by O'Ren

[ORen]

By the way how do I switch the fuel to reserve when the engine turns off in the middle of the road? Do I have to reach under and turn the fuel tap upwards?

 

I hope it is okay to do this in the middle of the road while still rolling.

 

Unless you were born and raised by Cirque Du Soleil, please forget about it.

Can't believe this guy, you are still probably limping from the accident and you want to do gymnastics on your bike in the middle of the road while "rolling" ?! :slapforehead: !!!!

Like Arthur said, the fuel LED goes red, do a couple dozen kms and next time you stop, switch to reserve, go to a station and pump petrol. And save yourself a fall !

 

Alvin, don't teach the young Padawan tricks bigger than him lah ! Later you'll see his bike at UM Hospital, you'll feel bad !

[phoenon]

hi guys,

 

thanks for the all the advice.. yes i am still using the stock tyres.. i know they are no good but seems to have been fine for me.. of course now they are almost botak and its time to change for better ones...

 

as for the hazard light session, are we meeting on that day to go and buy the stuffs? what about the chain oiler? is it necessary? personally i prefer to use chain wax..

[alvinyansg]

hi guys,

 

thanks for the all the advice.. yes i am still using the stock tyres.. i know they are no good but seems to have been fine for me.. of course now they are almost botak and its time to change for better ones...

 

as for the hazard light session, are we meeting on that day to go and buy the stuffs? what about the chain oiler? is it necessary? personally i prefer to use chain wax..

 

for hazard lights those that need to buy the stuff will be meeting earlier at 2pm on that day itself

for chain oiler it is up to personal preference..

[Eliminator]

Im interested in the hazard lights but my head is aftermarket one. I might need help on that coz my head got no extra signal lights. It is in the head itself.

[Fredd]

anyone noe for southern if wana add name to subride require any upfront?

[alvinyansg]

Im interested in the hazard lights but my head is aftermarket one. I might need help on that coz my head got no extra signal lights. It is in the head itself.

 

can come down

yours need to follow arthur's set up

[alvinyansg]

Updated the date below

anyone still interested please add your name below

(for those only just want to do the oiler can indicate your preferred date in the hazard session also. cause can come down on the same day as the hazard session to do concurrently, but your stuff cannot get on sun day itself. the shop open only till sat)

 

 

Hazard Lights DIY Session

 

Date: 28/11/2010(Sunday)

Time: 3pm/2pm for those who want to meet up ealier to get the things from sim lim tower

Place: Carpark opp Ah Boy

 

anymore people interested?

anyway below is the things that need to get for each

arthur, UG2 need to follow your set up for the hazard lights right?

 

 

 

Hazard Light

 

1)fircyber

2)Brandon

3)harumonia

4)husher

5)NoFishes

6)arthur

 

 

Things needed:

1) small switch with 4 pins(pic show 2 pins one,get the 4 pins one, get from sim lim tower)

2) electrical wire (best is those silver wire inside the insulation, if don't have normal red & black wires will do)

3) cable tie

4) ziplock bag(optional, to waterproof your signal relay under your seat)

5) signal relay x 1 (get from ah boy, UG2 not sure need or not

6) connectors for switch x 6 (6 is just nice, you can get more if you want)

7) black tape

8) wire cutter/splicer

9) heat strink (optional, to better water proof your connectors at your switch side or you can also use silicon to seal)

10) scissors

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]182750[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182749[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182751[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182752[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182753[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182754[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

Chain Oiler DIY Session

 

anymore people interested?

indicate your name below

below are some things need to get and some things need to consider before start to DIY

Date: 28/11/2010(Sunday)

Time: 3pm (the stuff have to get before sun day cause the shops not open on sunday)

Place:Carpark opp Ah Boy

 

Chain Oiler

 

1)fircyber

2)Lanzer

3)husher

4)arthur

5)

 

Points to consider:

1) need to determine your exact location for your oiler container

2) what type of container do you want to use? (best is those already with an outlet like brake fluid reservoir or medical syringe,if syringe then need a cover for the top to prevent dust from going in and the fluid from spilling out,bottle cap should do the trick, if no outlet need to drill hole then need extra valve/connector)

3) your chain guard is open or close? (closed chain gaurd need to plan more precise how you going to route your tubing cause need to determine how long tubing need to get)

 

Things needed:

1) tubing (recommend to get the 4mm one from the valve shop near ah boy, flow rate just nice, 1m should be enough, you can get more to play safe)

2) control valve (get the metal one from the valve shop behind ah boy,$12.50)

3) container (recommend to use brake fluid reservoir,can get from ah boy small one or get a used old one

4) cable tie (need long and the super small ones

5) pliers

6) scissors

7) silicon sealant

8) flexible metal bracket (optional, depend on where you want to mount your container, you have to decide before hand, some places can just use cable tie)

9) bolts/screws & nut (optional, only if you use the metal bracket then you need this)

10) metal handicraft wire/electrical black & red wire (if using the 4mm tubing the wire dia 1.5mm just nice, can get from diaso those handicraft wire)

 

the pics below show the flexible metal bracket i am talking about and the valve

and tubing can get at Teck Siong Huat Hardware

opp the shop selling bolts and nuts under the hdb flats,behind the coffeeshop opp ah boy

http://www.tecksionghuat.com/

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]182762[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]182763[/ATTACH]

[revhappy]

Hi Guys,

 

Just came back from LAB. I have changed my both sprockets and chain. The stock ratio was 15/43 and the new ratio is 15/38. Chain is DID 428 roller chain. I believe it is standard non o-ring chain. Installation was quite straightforward and no mod was required. Total cost including installation 35$.

 

I havent got a chance to test the top speed and rpm at that speed as CTE had quite heavy traffic. But I could clearly notice that now gear shifting has to be delayed, I couldnt shift to 5th gear below 60 kmph, I was pillioning my wife BTW. The gear shift is now slightly harder. Also,Earlier when I would accelerate, both the RPM needle and speedo needle would move up in parallel but now the RPM needle lags behind, kinda looks odd

 

Here are some pics of the front and rear stock sprockets.

 

 

[alvinyansg]

Hi Guys,

 

Just came back from LAB. I have changed my both sprockets and chain. The stock ratio was 15/43 and the new ratio is 15/38. Chain is DID 428 roller chain. I believe it is standard non o-ring chain. Installation was quite straightforward and no mod was required. Total cost including installation 35$.

 

I havent got a chance to test the top speed and rpm at that speed as CTE had quite heavy traffic. But I could clearly notice that now gear shifting has to be delayed, I couldnt shift to 5th gear below 60 kmph, I was pillioning my wife BTW. The gear shift is now slightly harder. Also,Earlier when I would accelerate, both the RPM needle and speedo needle would move up in parallel but now the RPM needle lags behind, kinda looks odd

 

Here are some pics of the front and rear stock sprockets.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]183817[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]183818[/ATTACH]

 

do you need to change your wheel hub?

yes gear shifting have to be delayed

now chances are you up shift at around 5k rpm

so that the bike will not lose too much power at the instant when you kick up gear

[revhappy]

do you need to change your wheel hub?

yes gear shifting have to be delayed

now chances are you up shift at around 5k rpm

so that the bike will not lose too much power at the instant when you kick up gear

 

No need to change wheel hub, bro. The rear sprocket is perfect fit and identical to the stock, except for the reduced diameter. I believe if you need to convert the 6 hole sprocket to 4 hole then you need to change the wheel hub or if the sprockets holes position is different. The owner of LAB is really an expert.The moment I said Bajaj sprocket he said he has, then he asked me P180 or P200, I said P180 and he replied "cannot". I told him it is 4 hole same as P200 and then he said ok . I called up Unique motors and that guy said he doesn't have stock and needs to order, even though they have 4 hole sprocket, it seems all 4 hole sprocket are not compatible. Anyways LAB rocks:thumb:

 

I have heard comments that their workmapship is not good. But I dont think that is true, because I saw them doing some complex stuff on bikes like Super4's and Phantoms.

[SC Gaban]

Hi Guys,

 

Just came back from LAB. I have changed my both sprockets and chain. The stock ratio was 15/43 and the new ratio is 15/38. Chain is DID 428 roller chain. I believe it is standard non o-ring chain. Installation was quite straightforward and no mod was required. Total cost including installation 35$.

 

I havent got a chance to test the top speed and rpm at that speed as CTE had quite heavy traffic. But I could clearly notice that now gear shifting has to be delayed, I couldnt shift to 5th gear below 60 kmph, I was pillioning my wife BTW. The gear shift is now slightly harder. Also,Earlier when I would accelerate, both the RPM needle and speedo needle would move up in parallel but now the RPM needle lags behind, kinda looks odd

 

Here are some pics of the front and rear stock sprockets.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]183817[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]183818[/ATTACH]

 

from 43 to 38 is a slightly big jump. u'l lose pickup power but not as bad as mine. im using 15/37 which i cruise 100km/h at rpm 6.9.

[SC Gaban]

No need to change wheel hub, bro. The rear sprocket is perfect fit and identical to the stock, except for the reduced diameter. I believe if you need to convert the 6 hole sprocket to 4 hole then you need to change the wheel hub or if the sprockets holes position is different. The owner of LAB is really an expert.The moment I said Bajaj sprocket he said he has, then he asked me P180 or P200, I said P180 and he replied "cannot". I told him it is 4 hole same as P200 and then he said ok . I called up Unique motors and that guy said he doesn't have stock and needs to order, even though they have 4 hole sprocket, it seems all 4 hole sprocket are not compatible. Anyways LAB rocks:thumb:

 

I have heard comments that their workmapship is not good. But I dont think that is true, because I saw them doing some complex stuff on bikes like Super4's and Phantoms.

 

depends on individuals perspective. almost every workshop can service Honda. try doing it on a Hyosung.

[revhappy]

from 43 to 38 is a slightly big jump. u'l lose pickup power but not as bad as mine. im using 15/37 which i cruise 100km/h at rpm 6.9.

 

Yeah, its true, pick up is not that gr8, I had to like clutch in quite often while riding in little india jam, but I travel from AMK to Changi business park daily, about 44 kms over the TPE, that journey will be very pleasant now . Another thing is I had changed my tyre to Dunlop TT9900 which is 100/80 smaller than the stock 100/90, I read that if rear tyre circumference reduces then gearing becomes short so that slightly compensates the tall gearing due to sprocket change. I have read so much about sprockets and gear ratios in the last few days it feels great to actually apply what you have learnt

[mjbs64]

Yeah, its true, pick up is not that gr8, I had to like clutch in quite often while riding in little india jam, but I travel from AMK to Changi business park daily, about 44 kms over the TPE, that journey will be very pleasant now . Another thing is I had changed my tyre to Dunlop TT9900 which is 100/80 smaller than the stock 100/90, I read that if rear tyre circumference reduces then gearing becomes short so that slightly compensates the tall gearing due to sprocket change. I have read so much about sprockets and gear ratios in the last few days it feels great to actually apply what you have learnt

 

Hmmmm ... bro just for info abt tyre circumference ...

 

 

Tire sizes differ because of:

 

production tolerances,

tire pressure

thread wear

and rotation speed (High speeds make the tire bigger!!)

 

Note: By downgrade your tyre circumference, you are actually killing your (torque) pick up and also your (power) top end speed !!!!

 

you can check your calculation on your pulsar 180 here http://www.gearingcommander.com/

Edited November 20, 2010 by mjbs64

[revhappy]

Hmmmm ... bro just for info abt tyre circumference ...

 

 

Tire sizes differ because of:

 

production tolerances,

tire pressure

thread wear

and rotation speed (High speeds make the tire bigger!!)

 

you can check your calculation on your pulsar 180 here http://www.gearingcommander.com/

 

Thanks MJ bro.

 

This site is awesome. According to it with my stock gears(15/43) and rear tyre(100/90 R17) @ 8000 RPM my speed was 100.4 kms/ hr.

 

Then I changed to Dunlop TT900(100/80R17) which reduced the speed to 97.1 Kms/hr @ 8000 rpm.

 

Then I changed the rear sprocket to 38 that increased the speed to 109.9 kms/hr @ 8000 rpm. Perfect:thumb: