[Technical] Possible Solutions to your Phantom's Problem

[chinhua]

Thanks for the kind advise.

 

Any idea how much is it to change the seals and pistons?

Did service both the calipers few months back.

[Streetwise]

i duno hw OK is the 2nd hand CDI. if thats nt the prob, it cud be ur ignition switch or ur kill switch. bring it back to ahchong n have him go over these parts again.

 

Well, I had experience with CDI problem 6yrs ago and this time, it's slightly different this time as the neutral lights do not light up; if not lighted, cannot start bike....whether kick start or push start. Once the lights come on....starting bike no problem....thus, battery rule out.

 

Yes, bringing bike back to Chong tomorrow

[naim]

Thanks for the kind advise.

 

Any idea how much is it to change the seals and pistons?

Did service both the calipers few months back.

 

wat did the mech do for the service? jux cleaning or change the parts? nt too sure abt the price though.

[naim]

Thanks for the kind advise.

 

Any idea how much is it to change the seals and pistons?

Did service both the calipers few months back.

 

wat did the mech do for the service? jux cleaning or change the parts? nt too sure abt the price though.

[chinhua]

Just cleaning not parts change.

Looks like need to ask the mech how much to change.

Thanks for the reply bro

[Streetwise]

Well, I had experience with CDI problem 6yrs ago and this time, it's slightly different this time as the neutral lights do not light up; if not lighted, cannot start bike....whether kick start or push start. Once the lights come on....starting bike no problem....thus, battery rule out.

 

Yes, bringing bike back to Chong tomorrow

 

Bike stop again on the way to Planet. Called Ah Chong and he rode his bike to meet me to troubleshoot. Confirmed ignition problem.

[fiz_ism]

Bike stop again on the way to Planet. Called Ah Chong and he rode his bike to meet me to troubleshoot. Confirmed ignition problem.

 

Maybe its only your fuse..? Have you checked your fuse if its blown?

[naim]

Maybe its only your fuse..? Have you checked your fuse if its blown?

 

if its blown, its blown for a reason. sumting shorted sumwhere. jux replacing the fuse wouldnt solve the problem.

[fiz_ism]

Hi pk riders, how much does welding of exhaust header cost, and also changing of gasket at exhaust header cost? Thanks in advance guys! (:

[wpwp]

Hi Riders, I've got one problem over here.

 

1. Bike harder to start now. Have to throttle for a awhile so it won't die.

2. When moving off from stop, sometimes the bike like wanna die. Have to wait a little more then the bike can continue moving off.

3. There seem to be much much lesser engine brake compared to last time.

 

I suspect there's air leakage at somewhere, but i'm not sure where.

 

Went to ah chong at planet but said little engine brake is normal. And the bike is warmed up already when i reach there, so it is easy to start when i'm there.

 

Any solution to it?

[jonaslaso24]

Hey guys,

 

I heard some of you guys change send your bike for servicing every 2000-3000km? What does servicing entail? Just changing the EO? Cause yea so far the only servicing I've done for my bike's to change the EO! And I lubricate my bike chain once in a while with the chain lub! Should I be doing more?

 

And yea for a while now when I'm applying the rear brakes there's a sound coming off. Sounds a little like your bicycle when its a little old. There's this sharp braking sound coming off but it only happens when I'm braking at low speeds though... Any idea what that could be? :S

[Kevs]

Hi pk riders, how much does welding of exhaust header cost, and also changing of gasket at exhaust header cost? Thanks in advance guys! (:

 

shouldnt be that costly if just small welding.

gasket is cheap, can get less than $10.

check with yr trusted mech or the usual ah Chong frm planet.

 

Hi Riders, I've got one problem over here.

 

1. Bike harder to start now. Have to throttle for a awhile so it won't die.

2. When moving off from stop, sometimes the bike like wanna die. Have to wait a little more then the bike can continue moving off.

3. There seem to be much much lesser engine brake compared to last time.

 

I suspect there's air leakage at somewhere, but i'm not sure where.

 

Went to ah chong at planet but said little engine brake is normal. And the bike is warmed up already when i reach there, so it is easy to start when i'm there.

 

Any solution to it?

 

1. Did you wash/tune yr carb recently? if so, maybe need to retune the air/fuel abit.

Note: try not to wash yr carb unless needed, cos the opening up of the carb will affect the jet pin & float, & if never put back properly, the gasket seal may not do its work & cause foreign particles to enter the carb & thus choke or damage the inside.

 

2. Refer to reply 1. Listen to the engine when ignited, is it thumping high & fast or, slow, not so loud & dying?

Try to maintain proper carb tuning & engine servicing, try not to keep tuning the carb air/fuel as that affects idling.

 

3. My way to define engine brake, is when down gearing, slowly release clutch whilst throttle off & u'll hear the engine roar + the back pull of the whole bike, like suddenly wanting to slow frm a speed.

 

hope it helps.

 

Hey guys,

 

I heard some of you guys change send your bike for servicing every 2000-3000km? What does servicing entail? Just changing the EO? Cause yea so far the only servicing I've done for my bike's to change the EO! And I lubricate my bike chain once in a while with the chain lub! Should I be doing more?

 

And yea for a while now when I'm applying the rear brakes there's a sound coming off. Sounds a little like your bicycle when its a little old. There's this sharp braking sound coming off but it only happens when I'm braking at low speeds though... Any idea what that could be? :S

 

If using semi-syn EO, best get it change @ 3000Km, if Full syn EO, 5000Km.

 

Spark plugs @ 10-15000(some 20000)Km

Air Filter, if OEM: cant remember what mileage, but if ure anal, change every time u go servicing(depends on rider usage & road conditions).

If using K&N air filter, is every 100 000miles(abt 150/160 000Km) recharge, depending on rider usage & road condition.

 

for the rear brakes, changed yr brake pad recently?

cos sometime if new, need to let the surface to break in.

If not, could be the brake dust, a simple air spray from the shop's air gun shld do the trick or, when washing bike, wash the brake disc by turning the wheel.

Do check on the limit of the brake pads, change when needed.

 

my 0.02¢

[velocity325]

bro , is there any good places in the east for a good carb tuning..my carb was washed but the tuning is confirm out..slower pickup and throttle not that responsive..engine gets heat up easily especially with the air from the cooling fins can really make me perspire a little in the night..suspecting that someone or the mech has actually further messed up my tuning to a much more leaner than previous..

[Kevs]

bro , is there any good places in the east for a good carb tuning..my carb was washed but the tuning is confirm out..slower pickup and throttle not that responsive..engine gets heat up easily especially with the air from the cooling fins can really make me perspire a little in the night..suspecting that someone or the mech has actually further messed up my tuning to a much more leaner than previous..

 

huh?

 

IIRC, correct me if Im wrong, if leaner, the engine would roar louder & thump faster, which shldnt hv slower pickup & throttle not responsive.

 

but then, still hv to consider the air intake ratio against the fuel.

 

@ the carb there, visible to outside is the fuel tuning screw, turn it upwards means more fuel, & lesser if dwnwards.

 

the air intake tuning screw is @ the otherside of the carb, need to peek in frm bike left to see.

 

its not rocket science but easy to tune. but hv to tk note of the air/fuel ratio tuned.

 

otherwise, my reccomendations would be ah Chong frm Planet @ Ubi..

 

again, my opinion, dont wash the carb unneccessary. its just a waste of money if the carb's doing fine all along.

unless it leaks or hving throttle problems, then open up & see, otherwise, just keep as is.

 

 

p.s. & no, i dont work for ah Chong, but like his character... http://main.slackriders.com/images/smiles/icon_mrgreen.gif

[velocity325]

huh?

 

IIRC, correct me if Im wrong, if leaner, the engine would roar louder & thump faster, which shldnt hv slower pickup & throttle not responsive.

 

but then, still hv to consider the air intake ratio against the fuel.

 

@ the carb there, visible to outside is the fuel tuning screw, turn it upwards means more fuel, & lesser if dwnwards.

 

the air intake tuning screw is @ the otherside of the carb, need to peek in frm bike left to see.

 

its not rocket science but easy to tune. but hv to tk note of the air/fuel ratio tuned.

 

otherwise, my reccomendations would be ah Chong frm Planet @ Ubi..

 

again, my opinion, dont wash the carb unneccessary. its just a waste of money if the carb's doing fine all along.

unless it leaks or hving throttle problems, then open up & see, otherwise, just keep as is.

 

 

p.s. & no, i dont work for ah Chong, but like his character... http://main.slackriders.com/images/smiles/icon_mrgreen.gif

 

hahas , okay ! thanks loads ! really need some fine tuning to prevent seizure or wasting of fuel..

 

edit 1 : ohh, it was very responsive during my start of the ride each day..but after some travelling like 50km continuously , cannot make it le..throttle must turn a lot and not that responsive..

Edited February 28, 2012 by velocity325

[Kevs]

hahas , okay ! thanks loads ! really need some fine tuning to prevent seizure or wasting of fuel..

 

edit 1 : ohh, it was very responsive during my start of the ride each day..but after some travelling like 50km continuously , cannot make it le..throttle must turn a lot and not that responsive..

 

send it to yr trusted mech or ah Chong bah...

[weian]

Recently, I have trouble switching from Neutral to Gear 1.

 

Just changed my Clutch Plate only half year ago and changed EO last month.

Please advice.

 

 

Another question, what does Clutch Slipping means?

[naim]

first is ur clutch freeplay. make sure u got proper freeplay. sumtyms nd to blip the throttle as well.

 

i used to have an issue last tym. same as urs. but it was the gear lever. when u open the front sprocket cover, there is a clamp for the gear lever to mount on the gear shaft. mine was loose and couldnt turn the shaft smoothly. tighten it and everything is perfect.

[Metalfyre]

hahas , okay ! thanks loads ! really need some fine tuning to prevent seizure or wasting of fuel..

 

edit 1 : ohh, it was very responsive during my start of the ride each day..but after some travelling like 50km continuously , cannot make it le..throttle must turn a lot and not that responsive..

 

Sounds like your carbs are running too rich. What you are experiencing can be explained with air density with regards to the ambient temperature and the temperature of your bike. If you are so inclined, you can attempt to tune the air/fuel mixture settings yourself; Kev has explained above how to go about doing it. When you tune, do it in half turn (i.e turn the screw for air intake half a round) increments and throttle to hear the difference. Try it; it's pretty simple since you're riding a single cylinder machine.

[Metalfyre]

 

Another question, what does Clutch Slipping means?

 

This refers to the clutch plate slipping due to insufficient grip caused by wear and tear. Since it slips, power cannot be efficiently transferred from your engine to your rear wheel, which translates to higher revs and lower speeds. Assuming your entire post is related, allow me to assure you that clutch slip has nothing to do with the problem you are encountering. naim's solution would work very well for you.

[weian]

first is ur clutch freeplay. make sure u got proper freeplay. sumtyms nd to blip the throttle as well.

 

i used to have an issue last tym. same as urs. but it was the gear lever. when u open the front sprocket cover, there is a clamp for the gear lever to mount on the gear shaft. mine was loose and couldnt turn the shaft smoothly. tighten it and everything is perfect.

 

so that means i will have to open my front sprocket cover and tighten it myself? never opened it before. hehe.

 

This refers to the clutch plate slipping due to insufficient grip caused by wear and tear. Since it slips, power cannot be efficiently transferred from your engine to your rear wheel, which translates to higher revs and lower speeds. Assuming your entire post is related, allow me to assure you that clutch slip has nothing to do with the problem you are encountering. naim's solution would work very well for you.

 

thanks bro!

[ken100]

I live in Thailand and have a Phantom 200 (4+ years now at 68,000 km). The last couple of months I've experienced a big problem starting when the engine is hot. Been looked at by several mechanics. Spark plugs changed, Carburetor cleaned/checked as well as choke, Ignition coil and cap replaced, CDI replaced, new battery. Still very hard to start when hot or will not start at all when hot. Can push start ok. Last thing I've done is carry a spare spark plug. When I had the problem again yesterday, I just popped in the "cold" plug and it started right up. I'm out of ideas and the Thai mechanics seem to be out of ideas.

[jtzx]

I live in Thailand and have a Phantom 200 (4+ years now at 68,000 km). The last couple of months I've experienced a big problem starting when the engine is hot. Been looked at by several mechanics. Spark plugs changed, Carburetor cleaned/checked as well as choke, Ignition coil and cap replaced, CDI replaced, new battery. Still very hard to start when hot or will not start at all when hot. Can push start ok. Last thing I've done is carry a spare spark plug. When I had the problem again yesterday, I just popped in the "cold" plug and it started right up. I'm out of ideas and the Thai mechanics seem to be out of ideas.

 

seems like rectifier needs to be replace. have you tried using a multi-meter and test if your battery is charging 14.3V???? If no means rectifier needs replacement

[ken100]

seems like rectifier needs to be replace. have you tried using a multi-meter and test if your battery is charging 14.3V???? If no means rectifier needs replacement

Thank you for the response. I haven't yet checked the rectifier but I should add that when I say the motorcycle won't start, that the starter turns over just fine, but the motorcycle won't fire up. Therefore I do believe that the rectifier is doing it's job keeping the battery charged. I will double check with an volt meter just to be sure.

[themanster]

does anyone experience a bit of lag when turning on signal light? i have to wait about one sec before it starts.

 

also when i go at highway speeds the signal light doesnt flash, but stays on. Lower speeds is okay.

 

does anyone else have this prob?