<D> All about Gauge Meter: Water temp, Oil temp, etc

[NoLicense2]

Hey guys. you know sportcar usually have those gage meter...

Lim Ah Boy also can get, but isit suitable for car?

 

Any 1 can intro good buy?

 

Where?

 

 

Thanks

[jia_yvon]

is called gauge meter. ani acces shop can get. price depends on quality n brand.

[NoLicense2]

is called gauge meter. ani acces shop can get. price depends on quality n brand.

 

lol, okok gauge meter..lol...

got intro not?

I dont need really powerful one, just for nice only lol...

[wait4me]

wa lau , no licence .. u ah

 

first u wan those furry furry for yr dash board, now gauge meter

then speaker. got tinted windows liao bo hehehhe

 

 

pm me yr color and number plate leh hahahahh

[jia_yvon]

hurr.. dun haf powerful or not powerful one la... LOL...

 

mine i gt it for free coz take from scrap car. LOL.

 

maybe u wanan try out at autobacs ???

 

cheap one i think 100++/gauge... if ex one can go up to 300-400++ if im not wrong.. read hotstuff can know liao. haha.

[jia_yvon]

wa lau , no licence .. u ah

 

first u wan those furry furry for yr dash board, now gauge meter

then speaker. got tinted windows liao bo hehehhe

 

 

pm me yr color and number plate leh hahahahh

 

typical ah beng ESI wat.. LOL.

 

juz joking.. no offence .. dun angry wor..

 

but seriously nolicense, juz a suggestion, dun spend too much on a coe n soon to scrap car.. not worth it.. juz cont drive ur car, build up experience, after 1-2 yrs, scrap it, buy a better car, then slowly decorate it..

 

but if now decorate also can, put on for ur esi then later change liao move on to the next car.. onli lose worksmanship. haha.

 

up to u .. is ur car n ur choice.. btw wats ur FC like ?

[biting_point]

Extracted from SwiftClub:

 

Critical meters are:

 

1. Oil Temp

 

Engine oil is the lifeblood of the whole engine block. It lubricates and protects mechanical parts from excessive wear. However the engine oil has its heat limitation before it reached its flashpoint and starts to breakdown. For such sensor, it is best to attach it to the oil pan or a sandwich between the oil filters. It is important to know that if oil temperature is hitting 130 to 140C, your oil is about being cooked. This means that a judgment call is needed for a bigger radiator, and/or a bigger fan, and/or oil cooler.

 

2. Water Temp

 

Water or coolant acts to cool the engine and oil by means of a heat exchange via the radiator. This is one very important parameter to monitor as the OEM gauge is rather inaccurate as there is no numeric indication. It is interesting to know that water temp is more or less equal or higher (usually the case) then the oil temp, and if it is shooting pass 110C to 130C, then it could mean that your fan is not coping, a lower thermostat is needed, the OEM radiator is not coping or that there is a leak somewhere.

 

3. Exhaust Temp

 

The exhaust temperature is a little more tricky here but basically it monitor how your pistons are coping depending on the engine, it should stabilize at one point but if it continues to go up then it could mean that the current AF ratio and ignition timing is not right, or that the current cooling system is not efficient for heat control.

 

4. Boost (or intake manifold Pressure)

 

Boost and intake manifold pressure basically shows you how much pressure the FI system is pumping into your combustion chamber. The regular boost meter shows the positive pressure, and the intake manifold shows you a range from negative to positive. However for intake manifold pressure, the positive pressure shown is pretty limited.

 

Good to have meters are:

 

1. Oil Pressure

 

This meter basically shows you how much oil pressure you have and it’s important should you have large oil coolers. You need to know what sort of pressure you have while you engine is at optimum point and should you loss pressure that is an indication that there is a leak some where, and if you should be driving, you need to back off from the accelerator.

 

2. Fuel Pressure

 

For Defi, this is a pretty good gauge to have, as it will work together with the boost gauge to give you a pressure differential. This is very important for FI cars as if you are not having enough fuel pressure in accordance to the amount of boost, then one is just playing for time before detonation occurs.

 

With all these meters, there is no hard and fast rules to it but it helps you understand the condition of the engine while it is running and helps you make a better judgment call when needed....

[wait4me]

wa so many meters...

 

now i now why some cars the dashboard super colorful and bright

[NoLicense2]

wa lau , no licence .. u ah

 

first u wan those furry furry for yr dash board, now gauge meter

then speaker. got tinted windows liao bo hehehhe

 

 

pm me yr color and number plate leh hahahahh

 

Haha. i want to make it swee swee what, because outside my office alot of COE car , all chio until attrack parking coupon aunty to come catch them parking at the double yellow line...

I No time to go tint, but i will go next week, cause very hot in the afternoon...

[NoLicense2]

hurr.. dun haf powerful or not powerful one la... LOL...

 

mine i gt it for free coz take from scrap car. LOL.

 

maybe u wanan try out at autobacs ???

 

cheap one i think 100++/gauge... if ex one can go up to 300-400++ if im not wrong.. read hotstuff can know liao. haha.

 

Wow, free, thats cool...

Where is AUTOBACS?

im at KL now, i check the price here is 158rm for one...

Hot stuff all ex stuff ...

[NoLicense2]

typical ah beng ESI wat.. LOL.

 

juz joking.. no offence .. dun angry wor..

 

but seriously nolicense, juz a suggestion, dun spend too much on a coe n soon to scrap car.. not worth it.. juz cont drive ur car, build up experience, after 1-2 yrs, scrap it, buy a better car, then slowly decorate it..

 

but if now decorate also can, put on for ur esi then later change liao move on to the next car.. onli lose worksmanship. haha.

 

up to u .. is ur car n ur choice.. btw wats ur FC like ?

 

Ya lo, bo bian, ESI make me so beng...haha...

But is true, every one been teling me dont spent money on ur car la, 3 more years scrap liao, but Sound system all this can la, cause i can change to my new car 3 years later....

My car, FC ery jia lat, full tank can only clock 350..40ltr

[NoLicense2]

Extracted from SwiftClub:

 

Critical meters are:

 

1. Oil Temp

 

Engine oil is the lifeblood of the whole engine block. It lubricates and protects mechanical parts from excessive wear. However the engine oil has its heat limitation before it reached its flashpoint and starts to breakdown. For such sensor, it is best to attach it to the oil pan or a sandwich between the oil filters. It is important to know that if oil temperature is hitting 130 to 140C, your oil is about being cooked. This means that a judgment call is needed for a bigger radiator, and/or a bigger fan, and/or oil cooler.

 

2. Water Temp

 

Water or coolant acts to cool the engine and oil by means of a heat exchange via the radiator. This is one very important parameter to monitor as the OEM gauge is rather inaccurate as there is no numeric indication. It is interesting to know that water temp is more or less equal or higher (usually the case) then the oil temp, and if it is shooting pass 110C to 130C, then it could mean that your fan is not coping, a lower thermostat is needed, the OEM radiator is not coping or that there is a leak somewhere.

 

3. Exhaust Temp

 

The exhaust temperature is a little more tricky here but basically it monitor how your pistons are coping depending on the engine, it should stabilize at one point but if it continues to go up then it could mean that the current AF ratio and ignition timing is not right, or that the current cooling system is not efficient for heat control.

 

4. Boost (or intake manifold Pressure)

 

Boost and intake manifold pressure basically shows you how much pressure the FI system is pumping into your combustion chamber. The regular boost meter shows the positive pressure, and the intake manifold shows you a range from negative to positive. However for intake manifold pressure, the positive pressure shown is pretty limited.

 

Good to have meters are:

 

1. Oil Pressure

 

This meter basically shows you how much oil pressure you have and it’s important should you have large oil coolers. You need to know what sort of pressure you have while you engine is at optimum point and should you loss pressure that is an indication that there is a leak some where, and if you should be driving, you need to back off from the accelerator.

 

2. Fuel Pressure

 

For Defi, this is a pretty good gauge to have, as it will work together with the boost gauge to give you a pressure differential. This is very important for FI cars as if you are not having enough fuel pressure in accordance to the amount of boost, then one is just playing for time before detonation occurs.

 

With all these meters, there is no hard and fast rules to it but it helps you understand the condition of the engine while it is running and helps you make a better judgment call when needed....

 

This is the reason why all sport car will have it, not for nice, but also some guide line for us to know what is boiling up ....

 

Upppppp....ForCOE car, we can see the engine parts but only try and try and try until u see any oil likage or water...

With those gauge, we can see it direct...

am i right?

[jia_yvon]

i onil put 2 .. 1 is volt meter n 1 more is vacum.. the rest not so useful to me.

[NoLicense2]

i onil put 2 .. 1 is volt meter n 1 more is vacum.. the rest not so useful to me.

 

mmm, i want to put very soon, sourcing for a better deal now, keep me update if you found any, thanks:thumb:

[jia_yvon]

okok. i think vol meter n vacum meter most important. the rest useless la...

 

know the air pressure, oil temp all these... unless u r really driving a performance car la.. if not in sg daily drive, know liao then wat ? lol.

 

jus my humble opinion ok ?

[NoLicense2]

okok. i think vol meter n vacum meter most important. the rest useless la...

 

know the air pressure, oil temp all these... unless u r really driving a performance car la.. if not in sg daily drive, know liao then wat ? lol.

 

jus my humble opinion ok ?

 

Okok, thanks thanks....

[newcomer]

bro for the water temperature gauge say where should the needle be if at normal working temperature for bikes at say 93degrees celcius?

 

Extracted from SwiftClub:

 

Critical meters are:

 

1. Oil Temp

 

Engine oil is the lifeblood of the whole engine block. It lubricates and protects mechanical parts from excessive wear. However the engine oil has its heat limitation before it reached its flashpoint and starts to breakdown. For such sensor, it is best to attach it to the oil pan or a sandwich between the oil filters. It is important to know that if oil temperature is hitting 130 to 140C, your oil is about being cooked. This means that a judgment call is needed for a bigger radiator, and/or a bigger fan, and/or oil cooler.

 

2. Water Temp

 

Water or coolant acts to cool the engine and oil by means of a heat exchange via the radiator. This is one very important parameter to monitor as the OEM gauge is rather inaccurate as there is no numeric indication. It is interesting to know that water temp is more or less equal or higher (usually the case) then the oil temp, and if it is shooting pass 110C to 130C, then it could mean that your fan is not coping, a lower thermostat is needed, the OEM radiator is not coping or that there is a leak somewhere.

 

3. Exhaust Temp

 

The exhaust temperature is a little more tricky here but basically it monitor how your pistons are coping depending on the engine, it should stabilize at one point but if it continues to go up then it could mean that the current AF ratio and ignition timing is not right, or that the current cooling system is not efficient for heat control.

 

4. Boost (or intake manifold Pressure)

 

Boost and intake manifold pressure basically shows you how much pressure the FI system is pumping into your combustion chamber. The regular boost meter shows the positive pressure, and the intake manifold shows you a range from negative to positive. However for intake manifold pressure, the positive pressure shown is pretty limited.

 

Good to have meters are:

 

1. Oil Pressure

 

This meter basically shows you how much oil pressure you have and it’s important should you have large oil coolers. You need to know what sort of pressure you have while you engine is at optimum point and should you loss pressure that is an indication that there is a leak some where, and if you should be driving, you need to back off from the accelerator.

 

2. Fuel Pressure

 

For Defi, this is a pretty good gauge to have, as it will work together with the boost gauge to give you a pressure differential. This is very important for FI cars as if you are not having enough fuel pressure in accordance to the amount of boost, then one is just playing for time before detonation occurs.

 

With all these meters, there is no hard and fast rules to it but it helps you understand the condition of the engine while it is running and helps you make a better judgment call when needed....

[MS]

Hi bro, I am not sure who wrote this but there're seriously quite a lot of errors.

 

Extracted from SwiftClub:

 

Critical meters are:

 

1. Oil Temp

 

Engine oil is the lifeblood of the whole engine block. It lubricates and protects mechanical parts from excessive wear. However the engine oil has its heat limitation before it reached its flashpoint and starts to breakdown. For such sensor, it is best to attach it to the oil pan or a sandwich between the oil filters. It is important to know that if oil temperature is hitting 130 to 140C, your oil is about being cooked. This means that a judgment call is needed for a bigger radiator, and/or a bigger fan, and/or oil cooler.

 

Most modern engines found on our roads in Singapore comes with a safety cut off if your coolant temperature exceeds 120DegC. So this eliminates the possiblity of having an overheated engine that will damage the engine mechanically. A bigger radiator, in fact reduces the coolant pressure generated by the water pump which draws a prefixed rotary power from the running engine. This will in fact affect the flow or even seize the flow. Eventually lead to engine seizure also. A smaller radiator on the other hand reduces the cooling area for the coolant to flow through while heat is exchanged with the atmosphere around the fins. Instead of using meters to monitor, the owner should ensure that the coolant used is proper. Do not modify the engine with unauthorized components as the engine in the first place have been designed to undertake the designated operation condition already.

 

2. Water Temp

 

Water or coolant acts to cool the engine and oil by means of a heat exchange via the radiator. This is one very important parameter to monitor as the OEM gauge is rather inaccurate as there is no numeric indication. It is interesting to know that water temp is more or less equal or higher (usually the case) then the oil temp, and if it is shooting pass 110C to 130C, then it could mean that your fan is not coping, a lower thermostat is needed, the OEM radiator is not coping or that there is a leak somewhere.

 

I really don't know what is this guy writing... Coolant cools the oil through the water jackets in the engine. The coolant heat is dissipated at the radiator to allow an introduction of cooled coolant into the engine and the cycle repeats itself. Coolant is not higher than the temperature of the engine oil and will not be. Coolant itself under pressurized condition inside the coolant route has a higher boiling point. (Coolant should boil at 100DegC if at 1bar; atmospheric pressure). The coolant is circulated in the water jackets of the engine to the radiator and back. The coolant in this way collects the heat from the engine oil, the engine combustion chamber and disspates it at the radiator. The combustion chamber itself can be as high as 2000DegC. And the Engine oil apart from lubricating the moving parts of the entire engine also cools down the heat. This heat is then passed on to the coolant for dissipation at the radiator.

 

3. Exhaust Temp

 

The exhaust temperature is a little more tricky here but basically it monitor how your pistons are coping depending on the engine, it should stabilize at one point but if it continues to go up then it could mean that the current AF ratio and ignition timing is not right, or that the current cooling system is not efficient for heat control.

 

Again I don't know what's the writer writing... Exhaust temperature is proportional to the amount of rev the driver inputs. Exhaust is the end product of the combusted material of fuel and air. The more you demand the hotter it will be. That is why if you rev a stationary engine, the heat will keep building up faster than an idling stationary engine.

Air fuel ratio is the pre-designated amount determined with the Air mass sensor that sends a signal to the engine ECU to determine how much fuel to inject. Ignition timing is the firing order. This is predesignated and not possible to be wrong. The firing order will never change. However in times when the timing chain loosens, the camshaft may skip a teeth and causes the inlet/exhaust valves to open/close at the wrong time depending on the design of the engine (DOHC, SOHC etc)

 

4. Boost (or intake manifold Pressure)

 

Boost and intake manifold pressure basically shows you how much pressure the FI system is pumping into your combustion chamber. The regular boost meter shows the positive pressure, and the intake manifold shows you a range from negative to positive. However for intake manifold pressure, the positive pressure shown is pretty limited.

 

Sorry... I really don't understand what's he trying to say.

There're many ways people in the industry addresses the terms of the turbo charger's parts. I shall use hot and cold side to better differenciate it.

The turbo works in such a way. Air is sucked in by the turbine(cold side) which is rotated by a connected impeller(hot side). This impeller(hot side) is powered by the expulsion of the exhaust fumes. In order to have a significant turbo operationability, the turbine(cold side) must rotate at a certain RPM. If not the turbo will not be considered as working. This is what my colleagues in the industry will call turbo lag. However, as the turbine(cold side) rotates at and excessive speed, it will generate excessive boost pressure inside the cold air intake manifold. This excessive air pressure need to be bleed off in order not to damage the intake system. So the Blow off valve (some call it the cold air Wastegate) comes into the picture.

 

Good to have meters are:

 

1. Oil Pressure

 

This meter basically shows you how much oil pressure you have and it’s important should you have large oil coolers. You need to know what sort of pressure you have while you engine is at optimum point and should you loss pressure that is an indication that there is a leak some where, and if you should be driving, you need to back off from the accelerator.

 

When you back off from the accelerator, the oil pump will also slow down further reduce the oil pressure. So either way your engine's busted. In the first place, if you maintain the engine well. Use proper engine oil, do not over top or under-fill, use the correct oil filter. Do not do any improper modifications. There is no reason why you should need this meter...

 

 

 

2. Fuel Pressure

 

For Defi, this is a pretty good gauge to have, as it will work together with the boost gauge to give you a pressure differential. This is very important for FI cars as if you are not having enough fuel pressure in accordance to the amount of boost, then one is just playing for time before detonation occurs.

 

With all these meters, there is no hard and fast rules to it but it helps you understand the condition of the engine while it is running and helps you make a better judgment call when needed....

 

I really don't understand what is this "...playing for time before detonation occurs..." But surely.... this guy wrote this certainly have no idea how engine operation works. Lack of fuel pressure will affect your Air fuel mixture ratio. This will not give you a healthy supply of exhaust fumes to operate your turbo charger to create the sufficient amount of boost pressure. Detonation? I consider he's talking about the engine exploding? Or the detonation of air fuel mixture? man... what the hell is he talking...

 

Basically you only need gauges from the factory. The rest of the meters are merely for aesthetic values. Also, you have no idea how accurate are the after market meters. OEM meters are specifically selected by the vehicle builders to meet the electrical requirements before it is purchased and included into the vehicle assy budget and package. Therefore to jump into the conclusion to point out that OEM gauges are not accurate is very far fetched and seems like assumptions grabbed from the air.

 

Don't worry... I have seen worse than this from examples raised by my colleagues from the States and Europe.

[MS]

bro for the water temperature gauge say where should the needle be if at normal working temperature for bikes at say 93degrees celcius?

 

Depends on what engine are you talking about, 93DegC in a traffic jam is normal. Even for those above 100DegC and getting the fan to operate non stop in a jam is also normal. As the coolant circuit has been designed to deal with the heat generation. As long as your coolant is a proper coolant and not some weird battery water that measures 1.25 on the hydrometer, it will be fine. And also ensure your thermostat is working. Meaning your fan should kick in at the stipulated temperature stated by the manufacturer recorded on your meter.

[newcomer]

Hi bro, I am not sure who wrote this but there're seriously quite a lot of errors.

 

Extracted from SwiftClub:

 

Critical meters are:

 

1. Oil Temp

 

Engine oil is the lifeblood of the whole engine block. It lubricates and protects mechanical parts from excessive wear. However the engine oil has its heat limitation before it reached its flashpoint and starts to breakdown. For such sensor, it is best to attach it to the oil pan or a sandwich between the oil filters. It is important to know that if oil temperature is hitting 130 to 140C, your oil is about being cooked. This means that a judgment call is needed for a bigger radiator, and/or a bigger fan, and/or oil cooler.

 

Most modern engines found on our roads in Singapore comes with a safety cut off if your coolant temperature exceeds 120DegC. So this eliminates the possiblity of having an overheated engine that will damage the engine mechanically. A bigger radiator, in fact reduces the coolant pressure generated by the water pump which draws a prefixed rotary power from the running engine. This will in fact affect the flow or even seize the flow. Eventually lead to engine seizure also. A smaller radiator on the other hand reduces the cooling area for the coolant to flow through while heat is exchanged with the atmosphere around the fins. Instead of using meters to monitor, the owner should ensure that the coolant used is proper. Do not modify the engine with unauthorized components as the engine in the first place have been designed to undertake the designated operation condition already.

 

2. Water Temp

 

Water or coolant acts to cool the engine and oil by means of a heat exchange via the radiator. This is one very important parameter to monitor as the OEM gauge is rather inaccurate as there is no numeric indication. It is interesting to know that water temp is more or less equal or higher (usually the case) then the oil temp, and if it is shooting pass 110C to 130C, then it could mean that your fan is not coping, a lower thermostat is needed, the OEM radiator is not coping or that there is a leak somewhere.

 

I really don't know what is this guy writing... Coolant cools the oil through the water jackets in the engine. The coolant heat is dissipated at the radiator to allow an introduction of cooled coolant into the engine and the cycle repeats itself. Coolant is not higher than the temperature of the engine oil and will not be. Coolant itself under pressurized condition inside the coolant route has a higher boiling point. (Coolant should boil at 100DegC if at 1bar; atmospheric pressure). The coolant is circulated in the water jackets of the engine to the radiator and back. The coolant in this way collects the heat from the engine oil, the engine combustion chamber and disspates it at the radiator. The combustion chamber itself can be as high as 2000DegC. And the Engine oil apart from lubricating the moving parts of the entire engine also cools down the heat. This heat is then passed on to the coolant for dissipation at the radiator.

 

3. Exhaust Temp

 

The exhaust temperature is a little more tricky here but basically it monitor how your pistons are coping depending on the engine, it should stabilize at one point but if it continues to go up then it could mean that the current AF ratio and ignition timing is not right, or that the current cooling system is not efficient for heat control.

 

Again I don't know what's the writer writing... Exhaust temperature is proportional to the amount of rev the driver inputs. Exhaust is the end product of the combusted material of fuel and air. The more you demand the hotter it will be. That is why if you rev a stationary engine, the heat will keep building up faster than an idling stationary engine.

Air fuel ratio is the pre-designated amount determined with the Air mass sensor that sends a signal to the engine ECU to determine how much fuel to inject. Ignition timing is the firing order. This is predesignated and not possible to be wrong. The firing order will never change. However in times when the timing chain loosens, the camshaft may skip a teeth and causes the inlet/exhaust valves to open/close at the wrong time depending on the design of the engine (DOHC, SOHC etc)

 

4. Boost (or intake manifold Pressure)

 

Boost and intake manifold pressure basically shows you how much pressure the FI system is pumping into your combustion chamber. The regular boost meter shows the positive pressure, and the intake manifold shows you a range from negative to positive. However for intake manifold pressure, the positive pressure shown is pretty limited.

 

Sorry... I really don't understand what's he trying to say.

There're many ways people in the industry addresses the terms of the turbo charger's parts. I shall use hot and cold side to better differenciate it.

The turbo works in such a way. Air is sucked in by the turbine(cold side) which is rotated by a connected impeller(hot side). This impeller(hot side) is powered by the expulsion of the exhaust fumes. In order to have a significant turbo operationability, the turbine(cold side) must rotate at a certain RPM. If not the turbo will not be considered as working. This is what my colleagues in the industry will call turbo lag. However, as the turbine(cold side) rotates at and excessive speed, it will generate excessive boost pressure inside the cold air intake manifold. This excessive air pressure need to be bleed off in order not to damage the intake system. So the Blow off valve (some call it the cold air Wastegate) comes into the picture.

 

Good to have meters are:

 

1. Oil Pressure

 

This meter basically shows you how much oil pressure you have and it’s important should you have large oil coolers. You need to know what sort of pressure you have while you engine is at optimum point and should you loss pressure that is an indication that there is a leak some where, and if you should be driving, you need to back off from the accelerator.

 

When you back off from the accelerator, the oil pump will also slow down further reduce the oil pressure. So either way your engine's busted. In the first place, if you maintain the engine well. Use proper engine oil, do not over top or under-fill, use the correct oil filter. Do not do any improper modifications. There is no reason why you should need this meter...

 

 

 

2. Fuel Pressure

 

For Defi, this is a pretty good gauge to have, as it will work together with the boost gauge to give you a pressure differential. This is very important for FI cars as if you are not having enough fuel pressure in accordance to the amount of boost, then one is just playing for time before detonation occurs.

 

With all these meters, there is no hard and fast rules to it but it helps you understand the condition of the engine while it is running and helps you make a better judgment call when needed....

 

I really don't understand what is this "...playing for time before detonation occurs..." But surely.... this guy wrote this certainly have no idea how engine operation works. Lack of fuel pressure will affect your Air fuel mixture ratio. This will not give you a healthy supply of exhaust fumes to operate your turbo charger to create the sufficient amount of boost pressure. Detonation? I consider he's talking about the engine exploding? Or the detonation of air fuel mixture? man... what the hell is he talking...

 

Basically you only need gauges from the factory. The rest of the meters are merely for aesthetic values. Also, you have no idea how accurate are the after market meters. OEM meters are specifically selected by the vehicle builders to meet the electrical requirements before it is purchased and included into the vehicle assy budget and package. Therefore to jump into the conclusion to point out that OEM gauges are not accurate is very far fetched and seems like assumptions grabbed from the air.

 

Don't worry... I have seen worse than this from examples raised by my colleagues from the States and Europe.

 

Then if I had the tensioner removed I should never rotate the crankshaft lest the valves get damaged?

 

I'd disagree with you on the gauges part. OEM gauges are known to be inaccurate(not much tho) on alot of models of bikes. My opinion is that a numerical water temperature gauge would be a useful addition.

[MS]

Then if I had the tensioner removed I should never rotate the crankshaft lest the valves get damaged?

 

I'd disagree with you on the gauges part. OEM gauges are known to be inaccurate(not much tho) on alot of models of bikes. My opinion is that a numerical water temperature gauge would be a useful addition.

 

 

Mechanically The chain tensioner can be remove from the engine block. But there will be a hole there and Engine oil will spill out from that hole when you start the engine. Also, the chain tensioner should always be there to ensure the timing chain is given the correct slack in order to prevent the chain from jumping around during operation. So, the tensioner must be there. Regardless its a belt drive or a chain drive.

 

It doesn't matter even if you rotate the crankshaft with the tensioner on. Because your engine operates with the tensioner on. When I overhauled engines, I never take out the tensioner. Because the significant time I need to rotate the crankshaft is to 'catch timing' when doing valve clearance. Unless of course I intend to replace the combustion chamber liner, piston rings, con rod bearing shell nip and so on.

 

Attached below is an example of an engine from VAG. (If my memory serves me right, it's a 2.0FSI engine. Sorry. Dug this out from my very very old training slides.) You will be able to see the relation of the timing governor (belt here) to the camshafts, valves, crankshaft and the piston conrod assy. I have to type a lot to explain by words. But from this illustration, you should be able to understand the importance of the timing governor's tensioner is of critical importance.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/arakyo/header1.jpg

 

The OEM gauges on the bikes or cars are meant to give a certain tolerance. Meaning it will give you a safety buffer to let you assume that you are operating at a more demanding condition which in actual fact you are perhaps a certain amount of percentage lesser. This also applies to after market gauges.

 

Perhaps I can explain a bit more on the automotive industry. Nowadays, it makes absolutely no sense to do everything yourself. R&D, production, marketing, sales etc. And so vehicle manufacturers rely on parts builder instead. That means for instance, VW does not develop their own steering. They merely sends out the tender and explain their requirements. Interested parties who have product line ups capable of meeting the requirement will bid for the tender. So basically, all those who apply for it have already a product capable of meeting the standards demanded by the vehicle builder. and of course in business sense, the cheapest one gets. For example, ZF electric steering got the tender for supplying the VW Golf, Tuoran etc. However, that is the OE. And naturally there is also another market called the aftermarket. The same part manufacturer will also sell the same part packaged in a different light to the different market (aftermarket) of course at a lower price since the builder do not get a share of the profits.

 

Therefore, the OEM is the after market. The after market is the OEM. The part manufacturers are the deities and the demons. This applies to engine components, suspensions, transmissions, powertrains, axles, brakes etc etc... Not only the car, bus, trains, motorcycles behave like that. Oil Rigs made by our beloved Keppel Fels also does the same. They use Caterpillar engines, Quincy compressors etc etc. They don't develop their own engines, compressors, pumps etc etc.

 

And do not be surprised... BMW buys ZF steering components and then re-label them as BMW. Toyota buys suspensions from their subsidiary Kayaba and re-labels them as Toyota. Even the vehicle sound system is not spared. You open up a LuK clutch box and finds a SACHS clutch inside. You see a bottle of Ohlins or bitubo suspensions fluid but those are developed by other companies except Bitubo and Ohlins have done the job to choose the right specs for the average owner. Don't call this integrityless... because this is the way the market behaves now. I was shocked at first. But after being in this industry for some time, this has become the norm.

 

Naturally... the gauges are also subjected to the same treatment. Therefore, if you say the OE is not accurate, the aftermarket will also be the same.

 

Also, technically, the OE meter has been designed to tap infomation from the correct source to ensure proper operation. Unless the aftermarket meter taps from the same place. But if that's the case, isn't this wasting money? Both of them serves the same purpose with the same background. Unless of course if aesthetics are of the highest priority, then I have nothing to say.

 

However, there is of course a system to govern the parts. And this system is known as the part number system. All parts are allocated part numbers which will attach to a designated model. So the parts in the aftermarket and the OE will not be abused. For example, the fork oil seals are different. A fork oil seal for the R6 cannot fit the R1. And in order to control that, there is a part number for each item to tell you whether it can be fitted or not. This part number system is very very widely used. Every different part manufacturer or vehicle builder will have their own part number system. The parts manufacturer for the after market will link the after market parts to the OE number so as to help their wholesalers, retailers be able to link to the right part everytime.

 

Therefore... as a member in this industry, if I were to modify, I do it quite differently from the normal Singaporean owners. I don't want to spend my money doing something that makes no difference or make it worse.

[wait4me]

Haha. i want to make it swee swee what, because outside my office alot of COE car , all chio until attrack parking coupon aunty to come catch them parking at the double yellow line...

I No time to go tint, but i will go next week, cause very hot in the afternoon...

wa , where u work , so many aunty wan ?

plus u never join yr fellow members at the hong kong cafe at marina ??

always see ESI there

i onil put 2 .. 1 is volt meter n 1 more is vacum.. the rest not so useful to me.

 

if i put i put 1 onli ,

volt meter

but then looks funny with one on the dashboard nia

[jia_yvon]

tts why i put 2.

volt meter n vacume

[newcomer]

That's some food for thought. Thank you for sharing bro. Mind if I ask what training do you give?

 

Regarding the tensioner chain slack; why is the chain/belt routed in such a "snaky" pattern? Does it serve a function?

 

And just curious, how different would you modify?

[GuiNNeSS]

That's some food for thought. Thank you for sharing bro. Mind if I ask what training do you give?

 

Regarding the tensioner chain slack; why is the chain/belt routed in such a "snaky" pattern? Does it serve a function?

 

And just curious, how different would you modify?

 

Thats a very old picture you're refering to, different agent different engine design. He just want to let anyone have a basic concept of whats inside of your engine.

 

Depends your ride is for what purpose, meters will serve you according. E.g. if i am driving a sunny and i dun track nor i drag, what the hell will i need meters for? even for volt meters. once fuse blow, no need meter also know your electric stuff is going haywire. Unless for comestic issue, you can put up to 8 gauges with some "fake"