Honda RVF400 Riders

[Shay]

Originally posted by FuLL of SoRRoW@Feb 2 2006, 04:42 PM

ermm..

i was happy high lah~

 

ler...

happy2 riding...

and suddenly came that rvf....

U call happy "High" ah?

 

So your

from being high..

i really woke up like a bom just exploded beside me like that sia..

actually means that You are HAPPY riding...and then got startled from that state of euphoria isit?

 

 

wa...Lidat, I'm high too.

 

But glad u made it out alive..intoxicated or not. Whichever the case, always ride in a state of alertness instead of not paying attention while being "HIGH".... especially approaching junctions.

 

That "mat" rider still dun wana own up ah?hehehe.... what color is the accused RVF? Not much "mat" rvfians here leh if u know what i mean.

[Xiao_Di]

Originally posted by Jie Liang@Feb 1 2006, 03:07 PM

if u take bike from them, (class 2) eat @ $9k flat.

 

but if ur intended price can lower den i wannna get ur bike leh!

where got so gd bike shop eat FS plate rvf so gd price ($9K)

 

like that the bike shop close shop...

 

maybe if ur bike is FW got this price

[FuLL of SoRRoW]

Originally posted by Shay@Feb 2 2006, 07:53 PM

That "mat" rider still dun wana own up ah?hehehe.... what color is the accused RVF? Not much "mat" rvfians here leh if u know what i mean.

haha..

maybe the mat not in this forum at all...

 

haha typical rvf kaler lah...

got the red,white and blue and lil yellow...

[RpM]

hi...any 1 gt accessories to sell? lookin 4 MRA double bubble. damper. black headlight protector. etc.... pls pm mi..thks...

[Leonard_35]

Originally posted by ambasnakeman@Feb 2 2006, 11:34 AM

remove lower fairing if want to use same coolant after that.

 

drain coolant. remove hose from thermostat cover. the screws are old and can be corroded in place. spray lots of wd 40. use a hammer to knock a few times. unscrew 4 screws. remove thermostat cover, and remove thermostat. apply sealant near at 2 'O' ring locations. fix back everything.

 

best is u do it at a shop.

k, will try, hope wont c*** up. havent got idea wat the thermostst looks like, but juz remove the whole thing izzit? Anything else? The sealant hmm, can use silicone?

[zod]

Anyone got the RVF NC35 Haynes manual for sale?

Or willing to let me zap a copy for a fee?

 

 

I have a soft copy of VFR400R manual. How much does RVF differ from VFR? Is the manual still applicable to RVF?

[ambasnakeman]

Originally posted by Leonard_35@Feb 3 2006, 09:37 AM

k, will try, hope wont c*** up. havent got idea wat the thermostst looks like, but juz remove the whole thing izzit? Anything else? The sealant hmm, can use silicone?

the thermostat is a umbrella like shaped item with a spring. as for the sealant, use high temp silicone

[eugene_kips]

rpm yoz, double bubble I got one spare, head light protector also got spare but clear one....damper no spare....

 

btw guys I am starting to have evil thoughts.....06R6 very tempting......even more tempting then cbr600rr....

 

siao liao......

 

anyone feeling the same calling?

[eugene_kips]

wats this discussion about thermostat?

 

bike too hot? how hot? usually it is hotter especially in jams....

 

suggest that the thermostat, radiator, water pump be checked.

 

removing the thermostat will render the flow to be higher indeed, but it also remove the ability of the inbuilt valve to control the water flow.....meaning it takes longer to warm up bike etc etc. IMHO dun think thats good too.

 

hot maybe because water pump faulty.....wear and tear can slow down the flow rate...

 

radiator or even the hoses can be blocked...its normal especially since most RVF are at least a few years old, a few 10000KM old or been though a few "dun maintain" bike owners. so it maybe hotter loh.

 

perhaps just flush your cooling system first lah then see how first lah

[eugene_kips]

Originally posted by zod@Feb 3 2006, 10:34 AM

Anyone got the RVF NC35 Haynes manual for sale?

Or willing to let me zap a copy for a fee?

 

 

I have a soft copy of VFR400R manual. How much does RVF differ from VFR? Is the manual still applicable to RVF?

haynes manual covers for VFR400 & RVF400.

 

but the VFR400 softcopy only covers VFR....at least the one I have is like that.

 

haynes manual brand new still have at kino or borders, 70+.

 

had help a few photocopy before.

 

if I free, maybe can help you photocopy one of these days.....but abit busy so got to wait.

 

any kind soul can help him out first?

[Shay]

Originally posted by eugene_kips@Feb 3 2006, 11:34 PM

 

removing the thermostat will render the flow to be higher indeed, but it also remove the ability of the inbuilt valve to control the water flow.....meaning it takes longer to warm up bike etc etc. IMHO dun think thats good too.

Yup. Longer time to warm up = longer time engine is cold when 1st started up = more engine wear and tear.

 

Especially so in colder countries with wintery conditions. But i think you can safetly do this mod here since Singapore is so Hot & Humid ALL the time . Haynes even suggest that if the Thermostat is knackered, u can safely operate the bike without this thing....(though it oso said to quickly replace the part ASAP).

 

Only thing to watch out for is to watch your cold morning startups. U should try to move off as soon as the idle is stable so the bike can warm up faster.... but keep revs controlled for a longer duration till the temp warms up.

 

Remember Modsters!...engine wear and tear is at its highest during cold starts. SO therefore...limit them for a given trip.

 

sorry if i sound incoherent...early morning...

[Leonard_35]

Originally posted by ambasnakeman@Feb 3 2006, 11:58 AM

the thermostat is a umbrella like shaped item with a spring. as for the sealant, use high temp silicone

k, thz snakeman

[Leonard_35]

Originally posted by eugene_kips@Feb 3 2006, 11:34 PM

wats this discussion about thermostat?

 

bike too hot? how hot? usually it is hotter especially in jams....

 

suggest that the thermostat, radiator, water pump be checked.

 

removing the thermostat will render the flow to be higher indeed, but it also remove the ability of the inbuilt valve to control the water flow.....meaning it takes longer to warm up bike etc etc. IMHO dun think thats good too.

 

hot maybe because water pump faulty.....wear and tear can slow down the flow rate...

 

radiator or even the hoses can be blocked...its normal especially since most RVF are at least a few years old, a few 10000KM old or been though a few "dun maintain" bike owners. so it maybe hotter loh.

 

perhaps just flush your cooling system first lah then see how first lah

hmm, hot as in, the frame. Hotter than cbr 400. Once you touch the aluminium frame, have to let go. But the temp needle at position between half and quarter. Even 954 frame warm. But rvf hot. Normal?

Wasted, juz replace coolant. Now going to flush cooling system and try.

[Leonard_35]

Originally posted by Shay@Feb 4 2006, 04:46 AM

Yup. Longer time to warm up = longer time engine is cold when 1st started up = more engine wear and tear.

 

Especially so in colder countries with wintery conditions. But i think you can safetly do this mod here since Singapore is so Hot & Humid ALL the time . Haynes even suggest that if the Thermostat is knackered, u can safely operate the bike without this thing....(though it oso said to quickly replace the part ASAP).

 

Only thing to watch out for is to watch your cold morning startups. U should try to move off as soon as the idle is stable so the bike can warm up faster.... but keep revs controlled for a longer duration till the temp warms up.

 

Remember Modsters!...engine wear and tear is at its highest during cold starts. SO therefore...limit them for a given trip.

 

sorry if i sound incoherent...early morning...

"Only thing to watch out for is to watch your cold morning startups. U should try to move off as soon as the idle is stable so the bike can warm up faster"

"SO therefore...limit them for a given trip." hey shay, wat you mean by limit them for a given trip?

Actually not modding the bike, juz want it to feel cooler. Heat damaging for engine components.

[y2kredbull]

I kena $476 after 15% discount for my NTUC TPFT renewal this year.I'm 26.Like still a bit ex leh.

[eugene_kips]

Originally posted by Leonard_35@Feb 4 2006, 11:44 AM

"Only thing to watch out for is to watch your cold morning startups. U should try to move off as soon as the idle is stable so the bike can warm up faster"

"SO therefore...limit them for a given trip." hey shay, wat you mean by limit them for a given trip?

Actually not modding the bike, juz want it to feel cooler. Heat damaging for engine components.

if I am not wrong shay is talking about his "manual" throttle-ing to warm up technique lah....the gently throttle to warm up way.....

 

anyway his point if I am not wrong is that should wait for it to warm up prior to moving off.

 

as for hot untill cannot touch frame.....er sounds like too hot really should check out the entire cooling system if you got the time/competency to do it, else sent it to a good mech.

 

think shay might be able to make a recommendation, heard he knows a very good mech. else can try combine motors also, the uncles there usually very careful and TLC towards my bikes one. K&T maybe last resort lah, cos they very busy all the time and this type of trouble shooting need time, not some straight forward job.

 

checking thermostat, radiators, hoses, water pump takes lots of time. btw did you flush when you replace coolant? usually do together one.

[Shay]

Originally posted by eugene_kips@Feb 4 2006, 01:28 PM

if I am not wrong shay is talking about his "manual" throttle-ing to warm up technique lah....the gently throttle to warm up way.....

 

anyway his point if I am not wrong is that should wait for it to warm up prior to moving off.

 

as for hot untill cannot touch frame.....er sounds like too hot really should check out the entire cooling system if you got the time/competency to do it, else sent it to a good mech.

 

think shay might be able to make a recommendation, heard he knows a very good mech. else can try combine motors also, the uncles there usually very careful and TLC towards my bikes one. K&T maybe last resort lah, cos they very busy all the time and this type of trouble shooting need time, not some straight forward job.

 

checking thermostat, radiators, hoses, water pump takes lots of time. btw did you flush when you replace coolant? usually do together one.

yea, the "Human ECU" method can be used for warm up but i do it more for stabilizing the idling during cold morning starts. This helps gets rid of cold temperature petrol condensation on the cylinder walls which inhibits effective combustion. Modern bikes and cars does this automatically by thier ECUs...thaz y i call this the "Human ECU" method

 

AS soon as the idling becomes stable (about 30 secs to a minute max), i will move off. No need to wait till temp gauge goes up, its faster to warm the bike up on the go, however must limit revs below 5-6K until temp guage goes up a notch.

 

Leonard, As i said engine wear and tear is the highest on cold starts. By saying limit your cold starts per given trip, i meant for e.g;

 

u go to work in the cool morning and u start the bike up cold. Then U remembered u forgot to put the bike cover inside the pillion storage. So u OFF the ignition, take out key to open up the rear seat...OK done...bikecover inside. Key in ignition again...Press start--> 2nd COld start for this particular trip. Then....u forgot to take gloves out of the pillion seat. OFF bike again...key open seat. Now u start the bike Again---> 3rd Cold start for this particular trip.

 

hehe....get it? Minimise this kinda mulitple cold starts for a particular trip.

 

As for the RVF being hot...well....mine will be hot too if i ride like a turtle..especially in the hot afternoon. Under jam conditions...the heat coming off the lower fairings when temp gauge is nearing 1/2 is quite unbearable.

 

V-engines have these tendencies to run hot especially when not moving in an adequate pace...but whatever it is...the heat probs should go away once your bike is moving along again. SLowly the temp gauge will go back to 1/4 again. If it still maintain 1/2 or 3/4 or worse...go to redzone when u are crusing for more than few minutes, then u SHOULD BE WORRIED!

 

eh Eugene! I do not know a "very good" mech lah. Its just a mech i trust enuff to go back to everytime. But as for flushing, i went to Racewerks to buy thier Maxima Coolaide coolant and did my flushings there. William even took out my spare coolant container to wash out the gunk inside...

 

i heard COmbine is not bad too..one of the rvf lao jiaos always goes there and reviews were not bad.

 

[Shay]

Originally posted by y2kredbull@Feb 4 2006, 12:25 PM

I kena $476 after 15% discount for my NTUC TPFT renewal this year.I'm 26.Like still a bit ex leh.

mine sama sama leh... . DUn think u are ripped off la...i was paying this rate too a year ago.

Think iz the market rate lor.

 

 

 

[Shay]

Originally posted by eugene_kips@Feb 3 2006, 11:19 PM

rpm yoz, double bubble I got one spare, head light protector also got spare but clear one....damper no spare....

 

btw guys I am starting to have evil thoughts.....06R6 very tempting......even more tempting then cbr600rr....

 

siao liao......

 

anyone feeling the same calling?

Eugene, have u read? The 06R6 doesnt really rev up to the claimed 17500 rpm due to some tacho error or ECU limit. Yamaha has since removed all traces online of the claimed 17500 rev limit.

 

Weird eh? But i guess its a small issue la since every new model comes along with some kinda glitch.

 

Was comparing 2 pictures, one the RVF and the other the o6R6 taken at the same spot....gosh i never tot i'll say this but the rvf looked so...... plump! haha! But i still love that 90's looks man.

[ambasnakeman]

rvf and its amazing heat signature.

 

however on the track, u can never feel the heat at the tank area. considering that its a sportsbike, and designed for high speeds, think its not really a big design consideration for honda.

[Leonard_35]

Originally posted by eugene_kips@Feb 4 2006, 01:28 PM

if I am not wrong shay is talking about his "manual" throttle-ing to warm up technique lah....the gently throttle to warm up way.....

 

anyway his point if I am not wrong is that should wait for it to warm up prior to moving off.

 

as for hot untill cannot touch frame.....er sounds like too hot really should check out the entire cooling system if you got the time/competency to do it, else sent it to a good mech.

 

think shay might be able to make a recommendation, heard he knows a very good mech. else can try combine motors also, the uncles there usually very careful and TLC towards my bikes one. K&T maybe last resort lah, cos they very busy all the time and this type of trouble shooting need time, not some straight forward job.

 

checking thermostat, radiators, hoses, water pump takes lots of time. btw did you flush when you replace coolant? usually do together one.

oh, okay

Actually is the lower part of the frame. think juz right below fuel tap. That part is hot. Is yours hot? The top part not so bad.

juz Drain out coolant and then top up.

Whers combine motors? ydo you have the address?

[Siao_Liao]

Originally posted by Leonard_35@Feb 4 2006, 07:24 PM

oh, okay

Actually is the lower part of the frame. think juz right below fuel tap. That part is hot. Is yours hot? The top part not so bad.

juz Drain out coolant and then top up.

Whers combine motors? ydo you have the address?

mine is hot....it is the same place as u describe...

[ambasnakeman]

i think that's the part the heat escapes........... the left and the right side

 

 

compare R1 04/05/06. the fairings are so open, due to the heat.

[eugene_kips]

Originally posted by Shay@Feb 4 2006, 02:17 PM

eh Eugene! I do not know a "very good" mech lah. Its just a mech i trust enuff to go back to everytime. But as for flushing, i went to Racewerks to buy thier Maxima Coolaide coolant and did my flushings there. William even took out my spare coolant container to wash out the gunk inside...

 

i heard COmbine is not bad too..one of the rvf lao jiaos always goes there and reviews were not bad.

hehehe paiseh....cos heard from DLM say he very TLC and meticulous in his work so I consider it good.

 

hate to see half past six type of mech.

[eugene_kips]

Originally posted by Shay@Feb 4 2006, 04:04 PM

Eugene, have u read? The 06R6 doesnt really rev up to the claimed 17500 rpm due to some tacho error or ECU limit. Yamaha has since removed all traces online of the claimed 17500 rev limit.

 

Weird eh? But i guess its a small issue la since every new model comes along with some kinda glitch.

 

Was comparing 2 pictures, one the RVF and the other the o6R6 taken at the same spot....gosh i never tot i'll say this but the rvf looked so...... plump! haha! But i still love that 90's looks man.

yah heard about it.....so sad its not true after all.....but to be able to run till 16000ishrpm is not too bad too.....wonder wat 07cbr600rr will be like hehehe.

 

anyway juz went to see the 06R6 today....the raven black one is sweet man.

but the frontal view reminds me of someone with a tong put over his face..

 

but tink i will stick to my rvfs first lah.....house coming soon got to buy lots of stuff....sigh

 

whatever the case, i still love my rvf and will be keeping one for sure. this is a promise i made to myself since I started taking bike lessons.