Honda RVF400 Riders

[Guest TachiTJRS]

The V4 engine configuration housed inside the compact chassis of the NC35 generates a lot of heat. Actually most engines whatever the design will generate heat, so the V4 is no exception. I should note that the temp gauge on the NC35 is a little inacurate, so when you are riding normally and the gauge shows about 1/4 it is about 90 degrees celcius, which is the effective operating temp for the engine. During jams the gauge may rise up to register 3/4 with the needle passing the middle of the "M" on the "TEMP" in the gauge itself, the temp is actually about 110 degrees celcius. This is fine as long as the temp does not go above this mark making it over heat.

 

Another thing to note is that at 93degrees, the electric fan mounted behind the lower radiator starts. and at 88degrees the thermostat opens and circulates water throughout the cooling system.

 

As long as you have a clean radiator, good hoses, enough coolant, there really shouldn't be a problem.

 

One way to tell is that the temperature can fall as fast as it rises the moment the road is clear and you can pick up speed.

[ambasnakeman]

we are still not sticky

[ambasnakeman]

just bought the sigma bc800 speedo for 30 bucks. must install urself.

 

planning to install it like shown on the link:

http://home.iprimus.com.au/siggi/speedo.html

[Soulmace]

tachi, how to know whether the electric fan and the thermostat is working properly?

[jungleboy111]

Originally posted by Soulmace@Jan 12 2005, 08:24 PM

tachi, how to know whether the electric fan and the thermostat is working properly?

This may be a crude way, but the easiest as well... Just get your temp up to 3/4, the fan will automatically kick in, then you know it's working. If the fan doesnt kick in, better get it fixed.

[jungleboy111]

Ok.... I'm trying to put into action the segregation of the threads, not to post mindless talk in the Bike Reviews thread.

 

 

Anyway, there is a "Love Making" Session organized by Ken. Apparently the pple involved either cannot make it or dont want to go. He's asking everyone else to go....

 

 

Ken & dlm : if you are reading this... Dont think i'll be able to go. I normally not free on fri sat nites.... anyway, isnt that session for those pple 'involved'?

[Soulmace]

Originally posted by jungleboy111@Jan 12 2005, 09:30 PM

This may be a crude way, but the easiest as well... Just get your temp up to 3/4, the fan will automatically kick in, then you know it's working. If the fan doesnt kick in, better get it fixed.

lets say i try ur method den, so i get my temp up to 3/4, and so my question is... "how would i know if its working when my temp is 3/4"?

 

will i be able to listen to the fan's sound when its working? or?

 

thanks for ur reply

[jungleboy111]

Originally posted by Soulmace@Jan 12 2005, 10:45 PM

lets say i try ur method den, so i get my temp up to 3/4, and so my question is... "how would i know if its working when my temp is 3/4"?

 

will i be able to listen to the fan's sound when its working? or?

 

thanks for ur reply

Yes, you can actually hear the sound of the fan, provided you are not moving and you listen carefully.

 

Another way is to look at the fan, see if its turning. Or you can use your hand to feel on the bottom right fairing in front of your right leg, theres an opening. You can feel the air being expelled out when the fan is on. I should say the opening below the 'F' word on the RVF word.

[ambasnakeman]

i have heard and seen of burnt switches on the low/high beam on rvf

 

on mine, the sockets connecting the bulb actually melted any info

[ambasnakeman]

i have heard and seen of burnt switches on the low/high beam on rvf

 

on mine, the sockets connecting the bulb actually melted any info

[ambasnakeman]

any of u guys know anything about the k&n filter used on rvf?

is it originally from other bikes or car?

 

when u dyno tune, does the mech install standard keihin jets or some other jets? i am quite unsure why r people using factory pro or dyno jet instead of keihin jets?

[Fatgrunt]

for the 1 on nc35, they're modified from a car model(which i don't know) actually i believe it doesnt makes much difference if u're using for normal road use(besides higher fuel consumption,i might be wrong though)

[BuZZBeaM]

Originally posted by ambasnakeman@Jan 12 2005, 11:43 PM

i have heard and seen of burnt switches on the low/high beam on rvf

 

on mine, the sockets connecting the bulb actually melted any info

high current !! tat y bulb/switches r burnt!

u nit a relay n it will work perfectly!!

and nv use diff rating for both bulbs....

[kewei]

Originally posted by ambasnakeman@Jan 7 2005, 09:43 PM

hey, my gear change quite heavy. anyone any idea why

there are 2 ways about it...either let ur revs dip b4 you change ur gear...or do the gear changing faster in 1 smooth action...

[jiaju]

Sorry bros, side track abit...

 

A used (silver)daytona damper with 6 clicks for sale at $150. Bracket comes free with the damper. For those whos interested pls pm me. Thank you for your attention.

 

[jungleboy111]

Originally posted by jiaju@Jan 13 2005, 02:36 PM

Sorry bros, side track abit...

 

A used (silver)daytona damper with 6 clicks for sale at $150. Bracket comes free with the damper. For those whos interested pls pm me. Thank you for your attention.

 

Someone's looking for a damper for RVF in the classifieds section... go check that out

[Non Stop Racing]

guys juz like to ask. i always have to rev then kick to neutral. without rev it cant kick. is this normal ? or indicating time for 4t change ? still got 2km more to go b4 change..

[jungleboy111]

Originally posted by Non Stop Racing@Jan 13 2005, 07:43 PM

guys juz like to ask. i always have to rev then kick to neutral. without rev it cant kick. is this normal ? or indicating time for 4t change ? still got 2km more to go b4 change..

2 possibilities i can think of:

 

1) Engine oil need to change

 

2) Clutch plates need to change if oil change doesnt solve the problem

 

I had this problem when I bought the bike, after changing the clutch plates, all was ok again.

[Lao_yang]

Originally posted by jungleboy111@Jan 13 2005, 08:30 PM

2 possibilities i can think of:

 

1) Engine oil need to change

 

2) Clutch plates need to change if oil change doesnt solve the problem

 

I had this problem when I bought the bike, after changing the clutch plates, all was ok again.

how much did u change for u clutch n at where?

 

 

tanks

[Non Stop Racing]

yah i think more to clutch problem.... cos i clutch in ,the bike still move forward ..veri little inching out but still noticable.. how much for clutch plate change ??

[ravenSP]

Originally posted by Non Stop Racing@Jan 13 2005, 11:37 PM

yah i think more to clutch problem.... cos i clutch in ,the bike still move forward ..veri little inching out but still noticable.. how much for clutch plate change ??

imho, you can change the clutch plates now, will be better of course. but actually i suspect your clutch plates can last much longer than this. i had this problem, just blow (rev) the throttle and it'll be very easy to change to neutral.

i also think that engine oil has a part to play if you still find it hard to kick to neutral. i was using the elf fully syn 4t, but when i changed to castrol r4 it was easier to kick to neutral.

 

if the bike inches out a tiny lil bit, its still okay i think.. if you have the extra cash just change it.. but if you dont.. leave it, it can still last quite long unless you keep getting clutch slippage or something.

 

fyi, i think the clutch plates are around 12-13per plate.. there are 9 in total if im not wrong.. 15 for gasket(i cannot remember sorry)? not sure how much is labour charge though, i suppose it varies with different bike shops..

[karmatrix]

honda's clutch plates are robust and should last you a long time...most likely is to change ur engine oil to see how 1st...to check ur clutch...get the bike to neutral at standstill...there should not be excessive vibration at the handlebar when you clutch out ..best is to compare with a good condition RVF...

 

[eugene_kips]

hey should check your clutch cable as well.......it usually wear out faster rite? maybe it need to adjust or changed.......well its cheaper than clutch plate so no harm checking it out 2.

[Non Stop Racing]

tks for the advice.no problem with 0 vibration when at neutral or gear 1 , will go for engine oil change this weekend.. my fren riding smaller bike hav this pro too, once he change cable its okie, so do u guys think more to cable or clutch plate ? . btw eugene tks for manual !! thumbs

[ambasnakeman]

i have the same problem u guys had with clutches. i taking back to shop now, as the bike is still covered by warranty. the other time change clutch plates but tahan 2 days only.