SBF Silverwings / HOM Cafe 2012

[armani123sg]

20-21km/L is very normal if you riding fast. When i was riding my fjs400, i ALWAYS get 20km/L. I do agree that I'm a hard throttler. Before SW, I rode ST1100, so I buay tahan, everywhere also full throttle. But SW still shiok to throttle, so no regrets for me. 20km/L i think very shiok already.

 

Good thing for SW is maintenance damn shiok. Plus parts easily available. And AC motors, Ah Chong is damn fast at repairing SW. I don't really like to waste alot of time at mechanic, so AC motors is perfect cause he works super fast.

 

Those riding JDM model usually get between 15-17km/L. JDM is the japanese model for SW. Its 'supposed' to be faster than the FJS400, but i think the only difference is that it consumes more petrol, but speed still the same. Haha!

[scoobydoo]

Ya, i realized that i will need to keep two cars length during normal days and maybe three-four car length for wet roads.... these knowledge saves lives =)

 

Any advise to improve the FC?

other than keeping good cars length, i always make it a point to ride more towards the side of the car (something like riding along the line "drawn" by the tyres).

this way, we may still be have the chance of moving into the "split" lane instead getting an outright piak impact to the rear of car in front, if it suddenly stops and there's not enough runway for stopping the SW.

 

improve FC? can try these...

+ use iridium plugs IUH24

+ adjust air-screw

+ check tyre pressure regularly (i use front 220, rear 250)

+ learn to feel the clutch bite and accelerate gradually, don't just open throttle and chiong

+ learn to cruise/maintain constant speeds where possible (e.g. 5+k rpm), avoid increasing and decreasing speed regularly

+ avoid using the T-mode (you called it turbo), it burns more fuel

+ unload unnecessary barang barang from bike... except pillion lah

[wait4me]

get airflow af214.. adjustable and hav middle tunnel for wind flow..

 

lai lai , oo best deal kang tao a not ?

[kmkoon]

 

+ learn to feel the clutch bite and accelerate gradually, don't just open throttle and chiong

+ learn to cruise/maintain constant speeds where possible (e.g. 5+k rpm), avoid increasing and decreasing speed regularly

 

 

Normally I will ride to 4 rpm let the speed go up to 70km/h then I will open throttle to go faster abit

[TinyBiker]

214DT already taller than stock windshield.

Unless she is very tall, if not would be just hiding behind you and won't get the wind.

 

But 214DT is know to flex more than stock. Not sure got effect?

 

Anyway, should try get some feedback from riders who pillion with the Airflow AF214.

 

Am using af 214 windshield

No complains from the wife regarding buffering even when i set it at it's lowest height.

[ellamcoy]

Japanese domestic model will usually have higher consumption compared to euro model. 😁

 

 

I see..... wonder why they have such differentiation for the 400cc class. Anyone who need more power can just grab the 600cc instead lol

[ellamcoy]

Japanese domestic model will usually have higher consumption compared to euro model. 😁

 

 

Double post

[ellamcoy]

Try relax ride.. 80-90km/h.. U will get 25km/ FC

 

Lol ya man maybe I should try that hahaha 25km/L seem to be a long shot for me, I'll be happy with just 23km/L+

[ellamcoy]

20-21km/L is very normal if you riding fast. When i was riding my fjs400, i ALWAYS get 20km/L. I do agree that I'm a hard throttler. Before SW, I rode ST1100, so I buay tahan, everywhere also full throttle. But SW still shiok to throttle, so no regrets for me. 20km/L i think very shiok already.

 

Good thing for SW is maintenance damn shiok. Plus parts easily available. And AC motors, Ah Chong is damn fast at repairing SW. I don't really like to waste alot of time at mechanic, so AC motors is perfect cause he works super fast.

 

Those riding JDM model usually get between 15-17km/L. JDM is the japanese model for SW. Its 'supposed' to be faster than the FJS400, but i think the only difference is that it consumes more petrol, but speed still the same. Haha!

 

 

Seems like AC is very reputable among the Swing. A lot of Swinger did raved about the mech. What is his specialty? When i tompang my spouse, the rear wheel seem to produce a "tack" sound whenever i crossover a hump. Have a feeling that the rear shock is tool soft. Either I harden the shock or to get my spouse to trim her ass lol.

[ellamcoy]

other than keeping good cars length, i always make it a point to ride more towards the side of the car (something like riding along the line "drawn" by the tyres).

this way, we may still be have the chance of moving into the "split" lane instead getting an outright piak impact to the rear of car in front, if it suddenly stops and there's not enough runway for stopping the SW.

 

improve FC? can try these...

+ use iridium plugs IUH24

+ adjust air-screw

+ check tyre pressure regularly (i use front 220, rear 250)

+ learn to feel the clutch bite and accelerate gradually, don't just open throttle and chiong

+ learn to cruise/maintain constant speeds where possible (e.g. 5+k rpm), avoid increasing and decreasing speed regularly

+ avoid using the T-mode (you called it turbo), it burns more fuel

+ unload unnecessary barang barang from bike... except pillion lah

 

 

Good advise scoobydoo bro, lane splitting is one of my fav past time lol, especially with high dB exhaust. I realized that Swing is smooth and quiet and driver can't really notice me

hence not able to "give way" on my approach hahaha.

 

I see, the IUH24 cost about USD$8 per piece! It provides better combustion? Really?

I notice the biting point is about 2.8-3K rpm. Any pocket trick to drop the rpm. It will probably be less fuel economic in start-stop traffic situation.

Will those up-market air filters (i.e. KNN) help in improving FC?

 

Now i stay far far from the T-button hahaha. This mode probably will appeal to be if i am 10 years younger hahaha

[wait4me]

the guys here sure got reason to praise AC, some say he very good at silverwing.

but i thnk since he ride tmax, should be good with scooter ba

 

 

only dunno if i go to him for some issues, then other things go to another bikeshop he will angry bo

[armani123sg]

Seems like AC is very reputable among the Swing. A lot of Swinger did raved about the mech. What is his specialty? When i tompang my spouse, the rear wheel seem to produce a "tack" sound whenever i crossover a hump. Have a feeling that the rear shock is tool soft. Either I harden the shock or to get my spouse to trim her ass lol.

 

he's really good with scooters. he able to repair most scooters. nv seen a manual bike at his shop though. i just like his speed. once he strip ur bike and parts are ready, he completes it very fast.

 

regarding ur sound at the back, most likely u are maxing out ur shocks, so u can either tighten it or if already at level 5, u might wanna change out to an aftermarket one. many use hagon and really swear by it.

Edited August 26, 2015 by armani123sg

[scoobydoo]

I see, the IUH24 cost about USD$8 per piece! It provides better combustion? Really?

I notice the biting point is about 2.8-3K rpm. Any pocket trick to drop the rpm. It will probably be less fuel economic in start-stop traffic situation.

Will those up-market air filters (i.e. KNN) help in improving FC?

i've used normal NGK sparkies, Denso iridiums IUH24 (with u-grove) and IUH24D (without u-grove) and found the IUH24 most responsive to throttle among the 3.

bike pickups faster but may may cost you more fuel if got no discipline; shiok mah, so throttle more to enjoy the pickup.

there are some (e.g. SW9000) who felt IUH24 too rough (jerky?) and prefers IUH24D for a smoother response.

my personal choice is for IUH24

better combustion? highly probably

better FC? depends on whether you whack or not lor

more shiok? yes

if wanna buy and DIY, can try LAB; last time he got carry, now not sure.

 

drop rpm for biting point?

cheapest is to use heavier rollers, honda stock rollers comes with different weights too.

do note that pickup may suffer with heavier rollers cos the SW's max torque is at 6500rpm.

rpm too low may even cause higher FC due to wastage on under burnt fuel during moving off from stationary.

other more costly options are like changing to aftermarket rollers (e.g. Dr Pulley) and/or variators (malossi, j.costa, etc).

 

K&N?

there're many claims that K&N filters improve pickup and FC.

i'm using a K&N... felt some effect but not as wonderful as those marketing claims (e.g. increased HP and torque, improved acceleration, etc).

FC? i get 25km/l stock (when bike still new) and also K&N (now)

best thing is, it lasts for a long time

[scoobydoo]

only dunno if i go to him for some issues, then other things go to another bikeshop he will angry bo

no problem one... SW9000 and me also go other places

he welcomes all customers, unless you plan to be a nasty one

[scoobydoo]

tonight curry rice? chicken rice?

[Jupiter9002]

SW9000 want curry fish head ...

[anodise57]

Dam????????

[Simonfwm]

Can any bro advise where I can get the givi windshield at a reasonable price?

[BigDogs]

Wah hey guys, after checking the tech corner my swing is the FJS abs model the sw-t model. But im getting 20-21 km/l. Full tank and im reaching 250km and tank is going dry, any idea is this an issue? Im big but the consumption like very high lei. When i was riding older bike i can hit most of them at least 300km per full tank. The maxsym i did 350 on a full tank. So not sure is this normal or is it something for me to get checked out.

 

Luckily i work 5 mins away from home so i dont really feel the pinch, and i ride usually like 70-80 city riding style

[kmkoon]

Wah hey guys, after checking the tech corner my swing is the FJS abs model the sw-t model. But im getting 20-21 km/l. Full tank and im reaching 250km and tank is going dry, any idea is this an issue? Im big but the consumption like very high lei. When i was riding older bike i can hit most of them at least 300km per full tank. The maxsym i did 350 on a full tank. So not sure is this normal or is it something for me to get checked out.

 

Luckily i work 5 mins away from home so i dont really feel the pinch, and i ride usually like 70-80 city riding style

 

I think maybe becoz you short distance that's why FC high. Stop n go stop n go will cause FC decrease. Just my 20cent thought. I rode 80-90 can get 25km/l..

[wait4me]

no problem one... SW9000 and me also go other places

he welcomes all customers, unless you plan to be a nasty one

 

i too nice until ppl bully

 

Wah hey guys, after checking the tech corner my swing is the FJS abs model the sw-t model. But im getting 20-21 km/l. Full tank and im reaching 250km and tank is going dry, any idea is this an issue? Im big but the consumption like very high lei. When i was riding older bike i can hit most of them at least 300km per full tank. The maxsym i did 350 on a full tank. So not sure is this normal or is it something for me to get checked out.

 

Luckily i work 5 mins away from home so i dont really feel the pinch, and i ride usually like 70-80 city riding style

 

is miledge divide by 15litres ?

[SW9000]

Touch reserve around 12 litres. (if 25km/l, should be able to do 300km @ below 100km/h)

Full tank 16 litres. (Max at 400km)

 

If going at 130km/h or more, expect max at 320km.

[BigDogs]

I think maybe becoz you short distance that's why FC high. Stop n go stop n go will cause FC decrease. Just my 20cent thought. I rode 80-90 can get 25km/l..

 

Maybe ah. Just now went to pump spc 92 petrol meter totally at E totally flat. Pumped 12.907 litres.

[wait4me]

Touch reserve around 12 litres. (if 25km/l, should be able to do 300km @ below 100km/h)

Full tank 16 litres. (Max at 400km)

 

If going at 130km/h or more, expect max at 320km.

 

woo

means i hit 305km / 12

 

about there lo 25/l

[scoobydoo]

Maybe ah. Just now went to pump spc 92 petrol meter totally at E totally flat. Pumped 12.907 litres.

totally flat?

SW's fuel tank capacity for all versions is 16l with reserve set at around 4l.

if you pumped only 12.9l, means you only cross reserve by not much nia