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Posted
If I were 2 b u, I bring my R1 2 PG:angel::angel:

On the contrary, u gg Tuas on weekdays or weekends....

 

most preferably on weekends, cause i don't work on weekends..

but heard weekends most of the time alot of ppl..

weekdays also can, but must plan in advance, so can apply leave..

mau pegi kepe bro??

can get valuable tips from you...

:)

2004 :- Class 2B ~ Yamaha TZM (2004-2005)

2005 :- Class 2A ~ Yamaha X-1 (2005-current)

2007 :- Class 2 ~ Yamaha X-1 (2005-May2008)

Yamaha R1 (03) (2007-2007)

2008 :- current ride ~ Spark 135 & Yamaha R1(05)

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Posted
most preferably on weekends, cause i don't work on weekends..

but heard weekends most of the time alot of ppl..

weekdays also can, but must plan in advance, so can apply leave..

mau pegi kepe bro??

can get valuable tips from you...

:)

 

Weekends got a lot of the bros of Motards....So sometimes like paisey....Weekdays, erm i gg dis month end

Speed is Nothing Without Control....

Posted

wanna ask you guys, i've been running in my bike for the past 3 days, speed is between 80 - 90 kmh.. just now when i was goin back with my friend (riding super 4) along AYE, i asked him what was his speed, he said he was doin 70 - 80 kmh..

Is this normal? as in is the speedometer showing the right speed that we are goin at? hope you guys can help me out here..

I wish you weren't my friend so i could stab you in the end.

Posted
normal... no problem....

 

so it is normal for our bikes to not show the accurate speed on the meter?

I wish you weren't my friend so i could stab you in the end.

Posted
so it is normal for our bikes to not show the accurate speed on the meter?

 

yes. thats correct.

Aug'06 - Jul'07 ; KRR 150

Jul'07 - Nov'07 ; Public Transport

Nov'07 - Jan'11 ; Spark 135

Feb'09 - May'11 ; Super Four VTEC II

May'11 - Mar'12 ; FZ1S'10

Jul'14 ; X-1R

Posted
Weekends got a lot of the bros of Motards....So sometimes like paisey....Weekdays, erm i gg dis month end

 

hmm, end of the mnth...

means will have to get my gears soon..

normally who u go wif??

 

u got my number rite bro..

anythin update me..

looking forward to tracking

 

anyone else care to join??

2004 :- Class 2B ~ Yamaha TZM (2004-2005)

2005 :- Class 2A ~ Yamaha X-1 (2005-current)

2007 :- Class 2 ~ Yamaha X-1 (2005-May2008)

Yamaha R1 (03) (2007-2007)

2008 :- current ride ~ Spark 135 & Yamaha R1(05)

Posted
yes. thats correct.

 

thanks! so if it shows 100kmh, whats the rEaL speed we're going? sorry to be a nuisance but im a noob who just wants to know more about this bike :cheeky:

I wish you weren't my friend so i could stab you in the end.

Posted
thanks! so if it shows 100kmh, whats the rEaL speed we're going? sorry to be a nuisance but im a noob who just wants to know more about this bike :cheeky:

 

88kmph 4 me.....U can test at slip roads heading towards 1) Bedok 2) Yishun lentor.....I ride at 60kmph but the speed that was shown onli 49kmph....Hope u get wat i mean :)

 

P.S pls do not test at 120kmph, it's a slip road not a track

Speed is Nothing Without Control....

Posted

Hello all spark bros! I would like to know how much to change for gazi and yss. Tell me the place to change also. Thanks

Aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at an Elingsh uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteer is at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a toatl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae we do not raed ervey lteter by it slef but the wrod as a wlohe

Posted (edited)

Gazi, $180- $210..........Wing Yap, B+ (cnc)

YSS fully adjustable, $330- $420.......Wing Yap, Chong Aik (cnc, distributor), B+ (cnc)

YSS onli damper adjustable, $110- $180 same as above

Can go LAB oso, good pricing, guarantee, dun worry :)

 

Best is cnc den DIY

Edited by Joker69

Modding wastes time n $$$$$?

Posted
Members $180, no members $150 :D........PM mi ur offer la, now got ppl reserve he haven't get back yet

 

Bro, I take your non-member price can:D

BTW, I chose to follow your break-in steps for my new Spark....Currently 300km+, can change EO already right? PM me wat's next ok:thumb:

Posted
hmm, end of the mnth...

means will have to get my gears soon..

normally who u go wif??

 

u got my number rite bro..

anythin update me..

looking forward to tracking

 

anyone else care to join??

 

Can I join in too...now my bike 300km+, planning 2 hit it hard after 500km....

Posted
88kmph 4 me.....U can test at slip roads heading towards 1) Bedok 2) Yishun lentor.....I ride at 60kmph but the speed that was shown onli 49kmph....Hope u get wat i mean :)

 

P.S pls do not test at 120kmph, it's a slip road not a track

 

Yea i get what u mean bro, much thanks! haiya, still got around 500km to clear then my running in is finally done.. :cry:

I wish you weren't my friend so i could stab you in the end.

Posted

I using Redline 10w-50:thumb::thumb:...Shops usually dun recommend dat way, coz they'll lose 1 source of revenue $$$$

 

Dun b crazy lar, no wonder u joker tonggang tombalik (upside down).....U sure or nt can use car EO on bikes:faint::faint:

Speed is Nothing Without Control....

Posted
Can I join in too...now my bike 300km+, planning 2 hit it hard after 500km....

 

of course, not a prob..

the more the merrier..

at the same time, can make more friends & learn from each other too..

will update once the confirmed dates & timing are out..

:cool:

2004 :- Class 2B ~ Yamaha TZM (2004-2005)

2005 :- Class 2A ~ Yamaha X-1 (2005-current)

2007 :- Class 2 ~ Yamaha X-1 (2005-May2008)

Yamaha R1 (03) (2007-2007)

2008 :- current ride ~ Spark 135 & Yamaha R1(05)

Posted
of course, not a prob..

the more the merrier..

at the same time, can make more friends & learn from each other too..

will update once the confirmed dates & timing are out..

:cool:

 

Wahhhh, u organise put my name ok...Auto add plssss

Tnx

Speed is Nothing Without Control....

Posted

I personally won't use car EO unless mod to dry clutch:(

 

Can I use car engine oil in my motorbike then?

 

No you can't. Or at least I wouldn't recommend it....

The real answer to this question lies in the type of motorbike you own. If you own a bike with a wet clutch (ie. where the clutch sits partially submerged in the sump oil) and you dump car oil into it, all sorts of nasty things happen. Oils formulated for car engines have friction modifiers in them. When the engine oil gets into the clutch, the friction modifiers get to work and you'll end up with a clutch that won't bite. In addition, the chemical makeup of some car oils has been known to soften the clutch material on motorbikes to the point where the entire clutch pack fails. Bike oils generally don't have friction modifiers, so they don't have this problem. If you're not sure, check for a JASO MA spec on the bottle. If you see that on the label, then it means the oil has been tested and confirmed to work with a wet clutch. Mobil have cautionary information on exactly this subject on their Motorcycle Oils FAQ page.

The other side of this coin is if you have a dry clutch bike, like some BMWs. In this case, the clutch is configured similar to a car in that it's never in contact with the engine oil, and if that's the case, then regular car engine oil might provide all the protection and lubrication you need for your bike. The issue then becomes a question of the exact formulation of the oil. The additive packages for car engine oil are typically balanced differently than those for motorbikes with fuel economy and emission system protection being the higher priorities. Your typical passenger car doesn't rev to 12,000 rpm either so stuffing normal car engine oil in a motorbike engine that can run to double or even triple the rpm of a car engine could cause all sorts of problems.

The debate about whether any of this is true is burning in many forums across the internet. One site in particular casts some doubt on the issue, claiming the only difference between car and bike oil is the price. I don't subscribe to that theory but in order for you to make your own decision,

 

taken from

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

Speed is Nothing Without Control....

Posted

nice post about engine oil.

 

but specifically speaking, as kuranesu mentioned, motul 300V works well for cars and bikes.

'Il rettilineo è una tortura'

 

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj279/refugeeforum/transport0055cy6.gif ...... http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj279/refugeeforum/transport011.gif

Posted
Wahhhh, u organise put my name ok...Auto add plssss

Tnx

 

Alamak, i organise ah??

Where to start?????? *blur*

hahaha...

 

confirm with me the dates & time first la..:)

2004 :- Class 2B ~ Yamaha TZM (2004-2005)

2005 :- Class 2A ~ Yamaha X-1 (2005-current)

2007 :- Class 2 ~ Yamaha X-1 (2005-May2008)

Yamaha R1 (03) (2007-2007)

2008 :- current ride ~ Spark 135 & Yamaha R1(05)

Posted
I personally won't use car EO unless mod to dry clutch:(

 

Can I use car engine oil in my motorbike then?

 

No you can't. Or at least I wouldn't recommend it....

The real answer to this question lies in the type of motorbike you own. If you own a bike with a wet clutch (ie. where the clutch sits partially submerged in the sump oil) and you dump car oil into it, all sorts of nasty things happen. Oils formulated for car engines have friction modifiers in them. When the engine oil gets into the clutch, the friction modifiers get to work and you'll end up with a clutch that won't bite. In addition, the chemical makeup of some car oils has been known to soften the clutch material on motorbikes to the point where the entire clutch pack fails. Bike oils generally don't have friction modifiers, so they don't have this problem. If you're not sure, check for a JASO MA spec on the bottle. If you see that on the label, then it means the oil has been tested and confirmed to work with a wet clutch. Mobil have cautionary information on exactly this subject on their Motorcycle Oils FAQ page.

The other side of this coin is if you have a dry clutch bike, like some BMWs. In this case, the clutch is configured similar to a car in that it's never in contact with the engine oil, and if that's the case, then regular car engine oil might provide all the protection and lubrication you need for your bike. The issue then becomes a question of the exact formulation of the oil. The additive packages for car engine oil are typically balanced differently than those for motorbikes with fuel economy and emission system protection being the higher priorities. Your typical passenger car doesn't rev to 12,000 rpm either so stuffing normal car engine oil in a motorbike engine that can run to double or even triple the rpm of a car engine could cause all sorts of problems.

The debate about whether any of this is true is burning in many forums across the internet. One site in particular casts some doubt on the issue, claiming the only difference between car and bike oil is the price. I don't subscribe to that theory but in order for you to make your own decision,

 

taken from

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

 

alamak....

*head spins*

hahahaha...

2004 :- Class 2B ~ Yamaha TZM (2004-2005)

2005 :- Class 2A ~ Yamaha X-1 (2005-current)

2007 :- Class 2 ~ Yamaha X-1 (2005-May2008)

Yamaha R1 (03) (2007-2007)

2008 :- current ride ~ Spark 135 & Yamaha R1(05)

Posted (edited)
bike can use car EO.. no prob.. i tried before.. infact i feel it's more smooth..

 

car can even use bike engine oil like motul 300v..

 

nice post about engine oil.

 

but specifically speaking, as kuranesu mentioned, motul 300V works well for cars and bikes.

 

Not 4 car though, I feel dat my FC worsened on my car....Used 2 using the 300V for my car (only use 3l), RXZ or Spark all-in-one....Yes it does feel lighter, road riding 4 bikes...But it's back 2 basic after reading the phrase below, car 4 car n bike 4 bike, nothing will go wrong...N furthermore, I feel dat I save $$ 4 the bike, but my car FC :faint::faint::faint:

 

Oil for bikes/ Oil for cars. What is the difference ?

Most of 4 stroke bike gearboxes use engine oil as a lube. To reduce wear and increase gearbox life, we include gear additives into bike 4 stroke engine oils. And the oil must not perturb clutch efficiency.

For bike oils, the JASO (Japanese manufacturer association) is very concerned by the clutch sliding problem so they issued some requirements and standards.

Motul 5100 and 3000 oils for 4 stroke engine bikes are JASO MA approved. To complete that, Motul performed the JASO T904 tests on 300V's to be sure that 300V's work properly without any clutch problem.

On the other hand, for cars, there is no gearbox or clutch problem therefore we can use for example friction modifier additives to reduce friction into the engine. This will provide power output improvement.

For bikes we strongly recommend to use bike oils and for cars, we strongly recommend to use car oils.

 

Taken from: http://www.motul.fr/uk/conseils/faq/reponses.html

 

Peace!!!!!!:cheeky:

Edited by Xerox1

Speed is Nothing Without Control....

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