Preparations to bike storage

[Snapcase]

I have an '05 cbr600rr which I intend to lay up for at least six months due to work commitments. What are the things I have to do to ensure that the bike will work like normal after the long storage?

 

I have asked mechanics and they advised to drain the petrol tank dry n spray a bit of WD-40 to prevent rust and remove connection to the battery. Any other things that I should do or take note of? Thanks in advance...

[lwfc]

whats the rationale for draining out the petrol?

 

from what i heard, is to normally leave the tank full.

add in some fuel stabalizer or sort.

 

then when time to use to bike after few months. totally drain out the old petrol. then top up new petrol inside.

 

thats just what i heard. feel free to comment.

[Snapcase]

whats the rationale for draining out the petrol?

 

This is what the mechanic told me, Im not so sure what is the rationale behind it.

 

But you mentioned that after the storage, to totally drain out the old petrol. If the old petrol is totally drained, they will still be some left inside unless u turn on the engine and let the petrol(old one) burn out. Maybe that is why the mechanic recommended to burn up the petrol till the engine died before storing the bike.

 

Anyway i am no expert in this, just my thoughts... anybody got any idea?

Edited May 27, 2009 by Snapcase

[lwfc]

something to read.

hope it helps.

 

http://www.custom-choppers-guide.com/motorcycle-storage.html

[Snapcase]

something to read.

hope it helps.

 

http://www.custom-choppers-guide.com/motorcycle-storage.html

 

Thanks bro, the article says that the tips are more for short term storage but I think can still be applied in my case. One point that was mentioned, not to use WD-40 on any motorcycle anywhere. I always use WD-40 everywhere on my bike

[Snapcase]

Other than preparing the bike itself, anybody had their bikes laid up before? Need to inform LTA and go inspection?

[newcomer]

You need to apply the bike for lay up at LTA. Lay up period is one year renewable for a max of 3 consecutive years. After that either scrap or put it back otr. Inspection is only required if you need to put the vehicle back on the road after the lay up period, followed by road tax renewal with valid insurance that fully covers the duration of your road tax.

 

For the tank I wouldn't drain it. I would top it near to the brim to ensure ALL of the tank inner surface at kept at a pristine condition. Also, having fuel at in the tank and fuel pump would prevent the orings and rubber hoses from hardening, consequently resulting in cracks. Trust me I've seen it on mine. On carb bikes I would leave the petrol in the float bowl as well, too many rubbers in there to replace if they hardern. You might want to shake your bike once a while to agitate the chemicals in the petrol, otherwise they'll clog your carbs. Make sure you turn the petcock to off though otherwise you might get petrol flooding in your cylinders(big no-no) should the fuel delivery system fails.

 

Same goes for eo and coolant, and brake fluids.

 

Replace petrol, eo, coolant, and brake fluids only when you're ready to ride her again.

 

Plug the silencers to prevent any moist build up inside.

 

That's about the few things I can think of in retrospect, the rests are pretty common sense.

 

As a matter of fact, bike storage is never a good thing. Use it or lose it. Otherwise, there're bound to be some seals that'll need replacing. Best thing you can do is warm her up every week and try to minimize the use of choke. Choke richens the A/F, thus building carbon deposit. It's better to bring her to operating temperature by varying the throttle, 1/8 of throttle play should be enough I think, around 2.5k to 4k rpm. The idea is to minimize idling and fixed RPM. As for EFI, they automatically enrichen the mixture on start up depending on engine's temperature, so there's nothing much you can do about that.

[Snapcase]

You need to apply the bike for lay up at LTA. Lay up period is one year renewable for a max of 3 consecutive years. After that either scrap or put it back otr. Inspection is only required if you need to put the vehicle back on the road after the lay up period, followed by road tax renewal with valid insurance that fully covers the duration of your road tax.

 

For the tank I wouldn't drain it. I would top it near to the brim to ensure ALL of the tank inner surface at kept at a pristine condition. Also, having fuel at in the tank and fuel pump would prevent the orings and rubber hoses from hardening, consequently resulting in cracks. Trust me I've seen it on mine. On carb bikes I would leave the petrol in the float bowl as well, too many rubbers in there to replace if they hardern. You might want to shake your bike once a while to agitate the chemicals in the petrol, otherwise they'll clog your carbs. Make sure you turn the petcock to off though otherwise you might get petrol flooding in your cylinders(big no-no) should the fuel delivery system fails.

 

Same goes for eo and coolant, and brake fluids.

 

Replace petrol, eo, coolant, and brake fluids only when you're ready to ride her again.

 

Plug the silencers to prevent any moist build up inside.

 

That's about the few things I can think of in retrospect, the rests are pretty common sense.

 

As a matter of fact, bike storage is never a good thing. Use it or lose it. Otherwise, there're bound to be some seals that'll need replacing. Best thing you can do is warm her up every week and try to minimize the use of choke. Choke richens the A/F, thus building carbon deposit. It's better to bring her to operating temperature by varying the throttle, 1/8 of throttle play should be enough I think, around 2.5k to 4k rpm. The idea is to minimize idling and fixed RPM. As for EFI, they automatically enrichen the mixture on start up depending on engine's temperature, so there's nothing much you can do about that.

 

Thanks bro fro your input. Regarding the lay up period, will there be LTA officers who will pop up time to time to check that your vehicle stays stored and not being used on the road? I think an option would be to warm up the engine from time to time or maybe even ride around the carpark

 

What about moving mechanical parts e.g side stand, swing arm... do u think its best to coat it with some kind of oil based lubricant or sumthing to prevent rust?

[GuiNNeSS]

Thanks bro, the article says that the tips are more for short term storage but I think can still be applied in my case. One point that was mentioned, not to use WD-40 on any motorcycle anywhere. I always use WD-40 everywhere on my bike

 

WD-40 is a degreaser. I use it to clean my rims and exhaust. Spray it on your moving parts and it will strip whatever grease remains.

[Quincy]

i would recommend to fully top up ur petrol as mentioned by newcomer. petrol will evaporate as time goes by & to prevent tank from rust. Disconnect battery also.

 

if u lay up, ur bike will be stationery & LTA officers will randomly pop to check. ur bike not there & comes ur summon. After you come back from work, gotta tow it to inspection, get new insurance. very much of a hassle.

 

some prefer wd40 while some prefer others. to each his own but i would recommend engine degreaser (gold can bottle) easily purchasable from Lim Ah Boy (cheap cheap)

proven to me for many years to degrease thoroughly with a help of a brush. spray away with water after use (optional)

[Snapcase]

WD-40 is a degreaser. I use it to clean my rims and exhaust. Spray it on your moving parts and it will strip whatever grease remains.

 

Thats wat I thought too, been using it for so long. Maybe not advisable to be sprayed on rubber parts especially chain with o-rings...

[Snapcase]

if u lay up, ur bike will be stationery & LTA officers will randomly pop to check. ur bike not there & comes ur summon. After you come back from work, gotta tow it to inspection, get new insurance. very much of a hassle.

 

What if the bike moved from one lot to another, maybe I can argue that I wash the bike...will they make noise about that, I mean summon?

[Snapcase]

some prefer wd40 while some prefer others. to each his own but i would recommend engine degreaser (gold can bottle) easily purchasable from Lim Ah Boy (cheap cheap)

proven to me for many years to degrease thoroughly with a help of a brush. spray away with water after use (optional)

 

Personally I used it before but to me still WD-40 is better... Thanks for your views bro

[yanero]

IMO,if its juz for 6 mths den no need go to lay up e bike..unless ur rd tax is up 4 renewal soon and u got other things to pay..

[Snapcase]

IMO,if its juz for 6 mths den no need go to lay up e bike..unless ur rd tax is up 4 renewal soon and u got other things to pay..

 

I've scrutinized options from every angle and still the best way for me is to lay up my bike... actually insurance n road tax both ending soon so that plays a big role in the decision making.

 

I've gone cold turkey for the past two months by only riding my rxz to work and to go out hoping I will forget my 600 and will end up selling her away but I can't. Somehow I still love it and couldn't bear letting her go, she is the tool for my stress relieving

[limbat]

Layup period of six months older Battery sure kaput - pass it to some1 to use if not must be trickle charge monthly.

[newcomer]

Agree with limbat on the battery. Mine leaked charge considerably after 5 months. That was an original Yuasa dry cell.

You can lube the sidestand if you wish, use your common sense. The swingarm definitely needs lubrication! Pump the nipple grease until all the old grease are expeled. The new grease should be enough to hold off for 6 months and prevent moisture from entering into the needle bearings and shaft, expensive replacements should they pit from rust.

Last but not least, wrap the bike up as tight as bak zhang to reduce dust from collecting at the crooks and crannies you can least imagine.

[Snapcase]

Layup period of six months older Battery sure kaput - pass it to some1 to use if not must be trickle charge monthly.

 

Alright, will do...thks man

[Snapcase]

Agree with limbat on the battery. Mine leaked charge considerably after 5 months. That was an original Yuasa dry cell.

You can lube the sidestand if you wish, use your common sense. The swingarm definitely needs lubrication! Pump the nipple grease until all the old grease are expeled. The new grease should be enough to hold off for 6 months and prevent moisture from entering into the needle bearings and shaft, expensive replacements should they pit from rust.

Last but not least, wrap the bike up as tight as bak zhang to reduce dust from collecting at the crooks and crannies you can least imagine.

 

 

I think mine also dry cell, bak zhang halal or not?

[seventheory]

hi guys,

sorry to resurrect old thread

 

i'm buying a honda SP, FV plate

friend one, taking over cos she needs cash urgently

 

but she never touch the bike for more than 6 months liao

disconnected the battery, and wrap up tight tight .. like ba zhang

 

fuel tank is about 1/2 to 3/4 full

 

from what i read, the battery confirm kakup rite?

other than that?

 

other than telling mechanic that this bike layup for more than 6 months,

still got what thing i should look out for?

[Raptor]

If there is fuel in the carb all this time... the jets and needles will probably be coated with gunk and garbage by now. The fuel in the carb would have broken down and corroded the jets and needles by now. The carb will probably be overflowing coz the bowl float needle would probably be corroded too and cannot seal.

 

I say all this coz this is what happened to my bike when my brother in law left it alone for six months when I was on overseas work assignment... if he had ridden the bike once every week... it would not have happened.

 

Bikes fresh from the factory in their crates are WITHOUT oil, petrol or coolant.

And they are stored like that for months before they are sold.

If that is not long term storage... I dunno what is.

[seventheory]

 

that doesn't sound good .. at all ..

 

means i have to get a new carb?

 

omg ..

new carb will deal how much damage?

[Aalex82]

 

that doesn't sound good .. at all ..

 

means i have to get a new carb?

 

omg ..

new carb will deal how much damage?

 

not new carb to that extend..

u hav to replace the worn parts as wat raptor hav mention if it happen to u..

[Raptor]

not new carb to that extend..

u hav to replace the worn parts as wat raptor hav mention if it happen to u..

 

You are correct.

 

I had to strip the carb and clear all the passages and also replace all the jets coz of corrosion and oxidation.

[newcomer]

but how competent is the average rider to strip down all the carbs down to the jets, orings, brass, diaphrams, etc, clean them dry and install it back without upsetting the settings? it also doesn't make sense for one to tear down every single coolant hose, brake hose, splitting the engine tearing out the transmission, clutch assembly, and whatever to dry every single part in out of the crate condition. even if you drain the carbs from the drain passage some fuel will still cling unto the inner surfaces of the carb. this make it worse because now you have more air in the carb body for oxidation to occur. that's why it's better to leave the carb full with fuel, and shake the bike once a while to agitate the fuel. alternatively, the carbs can be drained on a regular basis.

 

the next best thing is to start the motor once a while so that the liquids in the bike can circulate, which in turn prevents corrosion or oxidation as you mentioned.

like i have said, use it or lose it...