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Phantom TA200: How to DIY Guide(with Pics) Updated! 10/12/14

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Hi all! A bit of a self introduction here. Ever since I got my Phantom TA200 in Oct 08, I've always wanted to know how my machine works and how to do DIY. I'm a big fan of DIY as it allows me to understand my bike better and not always rely on mechanics to solve simple problems.


I've used this forum as my main source of information in the early days and now that I've known more about my bike, it's time for me to give back to this wonderful community for all the knowledge and skills learnt and to provide a good source of information for all to share. I'll try to make this guide entertaining as well so as not to bore you with too much technical mumbo jumbo.


Disclaimer: I am just a normal end user and have no commercial interest. The information provided are based on my knowledge and judgment and am in no way responsible for any damage caused. Do at your own risk! :angel:


To those more experience bros out there, there are some parts which I do not have a clue on and I'd appreciate any corrections so as to make this guide more complete. Those that I'm not sure I'll highlight it green. Thanks!


In the meantime if you've any questions, don't hestitate to PM me ya!



The List


1st Post

Tools Required

How to Check Engine Oil Level

How to Change Engine Oil

How to Check Your Brake pads

How to Change Your Spark Plug

How to Check Your Brake Fluid Levels


2nd Post

How to Change Your Air Filters

How to Adjust Your Brake Light Sensor

How to Check Your Front & Rear Sprocket

How to Check Your Front Fork Seal

How to Fix Your Side Box (Givi E21) Without Relocating Rear Signals


3rd Post

How to Adjust Your Idling Settings

How to Check Your Battery

How to Install Bullet Headlight

How to Make DIY Oiler

How to Install Hazard Lights

How to Install Hella Supertone Horns




Tools Required


Basic tools required are a Philips Head Screwdriver, Set of Spanners, Allen Keys, Elbow Grease

There's also a toolkit that comes with the TA200 itself. Standby Toolkit!



From Left: 1 22mm Box End Wrench, 3 Various Sized Open End Wrench, Pliers, Extension Bar, Spark Plug Tool, Pin Spanner, Philips + Flat Head Screwdriver & Handle


How to Check Engine Oil Level


Firstly, make sure your bike is parked on a flat and even ground. Start your bike for a minute or two and switch off the engine. Located on the right side of the bike is the engine oil dipstick.



Unscrew the dipstick and clean it with a cloth or tissue.



With your bike upright (what I do is to sit on the bike and make sure it's upright), reinsert the dipstick. DO NOT screw it back.



After reinserting, remove the dipstick and this is what you should see.



The amount of Engine Oil should be within the XXXX section, not too low and not too high.


How to Change Engine Oil


The Phantom TA200 requires 1L of Engine Oil each change. Please do not dump your used EO into the dustbin/drains as it is toxic to the environment. Always dump it at a bike shop as they have the proper waste oil collection drum.


Located underneath the left side of the bike is a nut. Unscrew this nut and you'll have EO coming out of it, place a container to collect the used EO. Unfortunately I am not going to change it now and the pictures are just an illustration of where to find the nut.



How to Check Your Brake pads


Make sure your brake pads are not worn too deep, there are indicator marks to ensure that. But mine's covered with brake dust! haha

Front Brake Pad



Rear Brake Pad



How to Change Your Spark Plug


On the right hand side of the bike, remove the oval chrome covering to easily access the spark plug.



Disconnect spark plug cap



Remove the spark plug using the spark plug tool



Reinsert a new spark plug and hand thread the new spark plug in followed by tightening it 1/2 turn with the spark plug tool




Picture showing the compressible washer and spark plug gap


How to Check Your Brake Fluid Levels


Ensure that your brake fluid levels are in between the lower and upper levels.


Front Brake Fluid level is on the right hand side of your handlebar. Sometimes it is hard to see the levels especially on an old bike, what I do is to use Meguiar's Gold Class Trim Detailer to restore those plastic surfaces.



Rear Brake Fluid level is behind the right chrome cover





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How to Change Your Air Filters


Open the left hand side chrome cover and you'll see this black looking box.



Using a Philips head screwdriver, unscrew the 6 screws that are holding the cover. Remove it and you'll see this.



What??! Where's the air filter? Don't worry, the air filter is hidden behind the cover.



This is what it should look like after replacing the air filter.



Screw back the screws carefully and you do not want to damage the plastic threads.


How to Adjust Your Brake Light Sensor


Rear Brake

Sometimes after changing to a new brake pad, you may find that you have to step really hard to activate the rear brake lights sensor. Adjust the sensitivity by turning the screw clockwise to make is more sensitive and anti-clockwise to make it less sensitive.



Front Brake

Unfortunately the front brake sensor cannot be adjusted as it works by a button mechanism. Squeeze the front brake and the button pops out, activating the brake lights.



How to Check Your Front & Rear Sprocket


Using a 8mm Wrench, unscrew the 2 screws holding the front sprocket cover.



Notice the top screw is shorter than the bottom screw.



Front Sprocket




Rear Sprocket




Ensure that the sprocket teeth are not sharp, if it is then it's time to change them. Also ensure that your roller guide is not worn out (made of rubber).



How to Check Your Front Fork Seal


Make sure the fork seal is not cracked, or worn out. You can hold the front brakes and pump the front fork to check if there's a need to top up fork oil.



How to Fix Your Side Box (Givi E21) Without Relocating Rear Signals


Make sure you have 4 of those L shaped brakets to mount the side frame on. With a bit of adjustments, you'll be able to fit them without relocating the rear signals and also able to open the pillion footrests. Unfortunately with the side box on, your pillion will definitely find it a bit harder to get on.






Edited by nuttybing
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How to Adjust Your Idling Settings


Take note adjusting the carburetor is a pretty tough thing to do, therefore I do not recommend meddling around with it unless you know what you're doing!


See the black knob over there? That's the screw to adjust your idling settings. It works very simply, screw clockwise to increase idling and anti clockwise to decrease idling.



You can also adjust your throttle free play through here instead of the front.



How to Check Your Battery


There is actually no need to remove your seat cover to check your battery voltage but I'll still show you. Take note that using a multimeter to check voltage is still insufficient to know about the health of your battery. At best you'll probably find that E-starting your bike will be more difficult. Another culprit would be a spoilt rectifier that doesn't charge your battery.


Anyway let's get going! Remove the right side chrome cover (nearest to the seat). Pop off the rubber insulation that is connecting to the fuse. Use a multimeter - ensure it is measuring DC voltage and tap the metal screws or any metallic part. Picture will show a clearer idea.




General Rule when connecting/disconnecting battery terminals is:

Always connect to the Positive (+) first before connecting to Negative (-)

Always disconnect Negative (-) first before disconnecting Positive (+)


Reason is because you don't want to shock yourself seeing sparks flying! In conventional DC circuit, we assume that current flows from positive to the negative. But in actual fact, electrons flow from the negative to the positive. Therefore always treat the negative with respect! haha


To remove off your seat, I use the included spark plug tool (it is essentially a wrench) to remove the 2 bolts on the left and right side of the seat.


Obviously you won't have the strength to remove this way, so I use an allen key to help unscrew the bolt


Followed by the 3rd bolt at the rear



Remove your seat and you'll see this



Remove the thin rubber cover and the battery is located there!



How to Install Bullet Headlight (New!)




You can buy one of these from Lim Ah Boy for about $35. It does not come with any mounting screws but fret not! it can use the existing OEM (Stanley brand) headlight mounting to do the job.


Before you remove anything, make a note on where your Low Beam light throw is at. Shine your headlight to a wall and make a mental note as you don't want to blind everyone once you install your Bullet headlight.


Firstly you need remove your original headlight, however the housing can be removed later as you'll need to do some modifications to the bullet headlight.


If you notice in the picture below, the bullet headlight pins does not correspond to the original headlight pins.




From here, there're 2 options.

(1) is to buy the corresponding molex connector & pins from Sim Lim Tower and crimp the connectors OR

(2) you can cut away the existing connectors and solder the wires.


I went with option 2 which is the slightly lazier option but I'd still recommend option 1. Remove the plastic connector by using a paper clip to bend the latch inwards. *Write down the pin location with its colour*

Once removed, cut away both the OEM headlight connectors & Bullet headlight connectors & solder them properly followed by heat shrinking the wires.

Take note: White wire = Low beam, Blue wire = High beam, Green wire = Ground.

If you notice there is an extra brown connector, that is for the small bulb. I joined them with the white wire which means it will on when it is in normal beam. Once done, connect back the plastic connector.



Remove your OEM housing & fit in the Bullet headlight housing. One problem you'll encounter is that the rubber grommet is too thick for the bracket. Use a pliers to trim the rubber grommets down to the required thickness. Once done, install the housing to the bracket & connect back the wires (Make sure the wire colour is coordinated properly!).


Realign your new Bullet headlight Low Beam and you're good to go!



How to Install Hazard Lights (New!)

'Work in Progress'

Equipment List:

1 x DPST switch

1 x Signal Relay (At least support > 4 x 15W)

Female spade connectors


Note: The DPST switch can be bought from Sim Lim Tower, there're a lot of kinds, just make sure it is a Double Pole Single Throw switch.

The relay that LAB sells are rated for 2 x 10W+1.7W (2 legs).


I have tried using it and it still works, but I don't want to rely on something that is rated less than what is required. Therefore I found another relay that supports up to 6 x 23W (3 legs) and used it. You can find it from no. 57 Jalan Besar Rd shop called Jinda that sells mainly automotive stuff.



This is the circuit diagram.




Firstly you'll want to remove your headlight assembly. From the picture, two ends of the switch needs to go to both Left & Right signal (Light Blue & Orange). I used a crocodile clip to temporary connect them(awaiting arrival of Posi-taps) or you can always solder the connectors. The other 2 ends of the switch will go to one leg of the relay.


The other leg of the relay will then be connected to the Black wire of this plastic connector. I'm still awaiting for my Posi-taps to connect to it. In this picture I show you where is the black wire and I'm testing the circuit out first. FYI this set of wires goes to the handlebar switches.


Take note: You'll have to find a way to route the switch onto your handlebar. I'm going to use a project box (buy from Sim Lim Tower) to house the switch and fasten on my handlebar. Pictures will come when it is completed.


My switch housing is made up of a project box. I made a hole large enough for the switch to fit into and later soldered the wires to the switch itself first. I trimmed the connectors down as it could not fit my box depth wise. I'm pretty concerned about the waterproofing of the switch and box, therefore I applied hot glue after soldering to ensure integrity of the connections and waterproofing.



After that, I fitted the switch to the box and applied hot glue generously! I left the other side of the box empty in view of future switch additions for auxiliary lights.


Voila! Done!



Testing testing! It works!



Edited by nuttybing
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How to Install Hella Supertone Horns or any dual horn setup w/ relay (New!)


My stock horns was not performing up to my expectations, therefore I bought this set of horns from a MO recently conducted. Some say you can find this horn at Mustafa but I cannot confirm. Anyway the horns really outperformed my expectations, so much so that if I accidentally press the horn I give myself a jump!


The circuit diagram



Follow the circuit diagram and you're good to go! Honestly speaking the wiring up easy, it is the preparation, cutting, crimping & soldering the wire that is the most time consuming. When you remove your stock horns, you'll find yourself with 2 wires, one Blue w/ Black stripes & one Green w/ Black stripes. These 2 wires are activated by your horn button, which will therefore go to 86 & 85 of the relay respectively.



I mounted the relay inside my headlight housing as it is the most protected from rain & efficient location without having to run wires everywhere!




One issue I faced was that my stock horn switch wire is too short to reach the headlight housing, therefore I had to crimp & solder an extension wire, one end male & the other end female spade connectors (get from Sim Lim Tower).


Once done, your Phantom will look fierce & sound fierce!



How to Install DIY Oiler (New!)


These are the items I've used for my oiler, there are many ways & types for an oiler but I chose this method as I prefer this design. Thanks to mepkoh and his thread on DIY oiler that sparked my interest in making one! The benefits of having this oiler beats using those spray lube!


Items that you need:

5mm Tubing

On/off valve



Cable ties


Find a place to mount your oiler. I chose to mount it here on the right hand side of the frame.




Connect the tubing, on/off valve & regulator to the bottle.


Route the tubing to the swing arm or whichever way you like!(i chose the chain guard) and to the chain. Use cable ties to help fasten the tubing snugly(not too tight!).



After which, punch a hole on top of the bottle(not so big but enough for a shampoo bottle nozzle to fit).

Sorry about the dirty chain, I've not cleaned it for weeks during the install. Hee~


Once done, fill up the bottle using a shampoo bottle filled with EO and regulate the flow to about 1 drop / 40secs or so.


So far I've been riding and testing it out on bumpy roads and the tube does not get shifted about. The rate of oil flow is also good enough to not have too much oil fling to the tyre side walls which can potentially be very dangerous!

Edited by nuttybing
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Future topics we can do on so as to expand this database. :) Please PM me if you have more suggestions!


1. Detailing (Do-able)

2. Check Battery (Do-able)

3. Fuel tank (May take some time, also I don't have much reason to open it up haha)

4. Exhuast (May take some time, thinking of what to write abt. PM me if you got smth in mind! :))

5. Handle bar & risers (Do-able)

6. Headlight (Do-able)

7. Signal lights (Do-able)

8. Electrical wiring (This one will take more time as I've to figure out & trace wires) (1/2 way there)

9. Engine components (Maybe in the future I will take my engine apart, hoping to have a mech to teach me)

10. Carburetor tuning (Pretty hard too, will definitely need some help on this)

11. Installing Hazard Lights (I need some help on this, anyone willing to help?):help:

12. Installing Bullet Headlight

12. DIY Oiler

13. Hazard Light *Coming soon*

14. Hella Supertone Horn



I'm getting pretty interested in the electrical components of my bike, one day I'll add in a relay


In order to keep this sticky thread nice & clean, please PM me if you've any questions ya!

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  • 2 years later...

The infamous TICK TICK noise known amongst Phantom riders: The Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT). Its a small little component that keeps the cam chain tension at all engine speeds to maintain proper timing for the valves. If this goes wrong, goodbye to your valvetrain and even ur piston if unlucky.


So once you hear this TICK TICK noise when idling, get it changed! If you need to save every cent you have and don' mind getting dirty (like me: poor student! :( ), then purchase it from spare parts shop like Everfit, Eversuccess, FJT, Chong Aik, etc. I got mine from Eversuccess for $42 w/o gasket (my gasket is still in good condition). Cux i read from the other thread that Planet charges abt $60?


So tools you will need:

1) 10mm spanner

2) 5mm Allen Key

3) Cleaner (Carb or contact cleaner will do)

4) Paper towels


1) First we need to remove the starter motor. Remove the starter motor lead cable, on top of the starter motor. (10mm nut) Keep track of the washers. (More accessible from LHS of bike)






2) Remove the 2 mounting bolts (RHS of bike). NOTE: The left mounting bolt has a Earth lead under it. Remember to reinstall it when reassembling)


3) Pull out the starter motor, might be a little hard, so a LIGHT tap from the LHS might get it out.


4) Remove the 2 Allen bolts holding the CCT.




5) Clean and prepare the new surface. Check that your gasket is not torn if you are re-using.




6) I know that yellow little plastic tab looks nice to pull out: DON'T! its to hold the tensioner back so you can install it easier. If it does come out, insert the key back, and wind it up clockwise to pull back the tensioner.




7) Reinstall, tighten properly (NOT TOO TIGHT!), pull the plastic tab and clean up the area. Reinstall the starter motor, and check all connections and bolts before starting the engine.





A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!



2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i


Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim



SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

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  • 2 years later...

Hi Kev, as mentioned, please help me to merge into nuttybing's thread. thanks!


executive summary of this posting: i might stop riding after my coe lapse in july, hence posting all these info for newbies so that they might find the below information useful in the near future!


information is divided into below different sections:

0. how to jack up bike

1. bike frame and structure - wheels/forks/steering

2. engine: carb draining; proper engine oil checking; clutch free play

3. electrical: adding a grounding cable, checking continuity via resistance



0. jacking up the motorcycle - to check wheel bearings or service drive chain

*note this is only a reference way to jack up the bike - you might prefer to use different jacking points.

1. for my method of jacking the bike up, the weight of the bike is mostly on the side stand and also the wheel that is not lifted.

try to jack up on flat level surface.

2. stop front wheel movement by stoppering the wheel against a kerb, or applying front brake by using a cable tie/velcro strip.

this will avoid additional movement during lifting of the bike,

3. jack up near the point marked at the exhaust. (see below image)

note that the exhaust is connected to the frame at that point.

that joint will flex so *be careful* when u raise the jack. the bike will be have a see-saw effect with the jack as the pivot point.

4. the further u jack up towards the end of the exhaust can, more likely u will lift up the front wheel.





1a. checking wheel bearings

the reason why you would want to check your wheel bearings is to make sure there is no additional play in the wheel movement from side to side..

a bearing is supposed to provide rotation movement only - if the bearing is spoilt you might have issues trying to go straight at low speed control. please check your bearings if you just bought bike because the stock ones aint so good and also if you hit something with your wheels - this will cause the sealed bearings to start to move side way.



1. grasp top and bottom of the wheels at places marked in image below

2. try to move the wheel from side to side. there should be no lateral motion.

3. roll the wheel and repeat.

4. there is lateral motion - send to mechanic for wheel bearing replacement!


01a-bearing check.jpg


1b. - steering cone bearing check.

this check is to make sure that your steering cone movement in all direction is move. if not this could be dangerous when you are doing some deep cornering at high speed.


1. try to lift up the front wheel by jacking - any resistance in the bearing movement will be easier to detect.

2. turn steering handle left to right and repeat. there should be no resistance in the movement - it should be smooth. if not - send for servicing!


1c. fork oil checks - bugs/pitting

this is an add on to the previous section by nuttybing.

sometimes the fork oil still leaks even though if you have change the fork seals a few times, it could be due to:

-> bugs stuck on the fork

-> pitting due to corrosion.

-> dings due to rocks hitting your tube



1. clean fork surfaces regularly and remove debris especially if you are riding through sandy/construction area etc.

any bugs can be removed by water and for persistent stains, *lightly* wipe the fork with autosol and wipe off excess autosol.

(i am using autosol as a solvent - you might wan to use alternatives)


i will not be responsible for any actions resultant for insensible usage of autosol


for me light application removed some bug which caused a leaking issue which i replaced 2 fork seals for.


2. to trace protrusions on forks causing leaks, you can try to see at how much fork tube has went into the suspension to trace the leaking point: tie cable ties loosely around fork at minumum fork point and ride through aggresively different humps (see image below)


3. to protect your forks further, you can buy those cable tie on fork protectors - not as good as full fork boot but still better than nothing!


01c-fork seal tips.jpg


operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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2. engine: carb draining; proper engine oil checking; clutch free play


*** before assuming your engine got problem with carb cleanliness /air-fuel ratio issues/ compression issue / fuel consumption issues, please change a new set of spark plugs +engine oil + air filter before trouble shooting. dont waste yr time and find the simplest fix. sometimes its just consumables need to be replaced.

2a. carb draining.

the thing about carbuerated bikes is that the carb may have to be serviced or cleaned once in a while. usually this might lead to poor FC and/or bike running too hot if a/f ratio too lean; or backfires if too rich.


some ppl might assume carb must retune / clean or whatsoever then anyhow start adjusting. please dont anyhow adjust first!

either you send your bike for carb service or you can drain your carb bowl to see if your fuel delivery problems go away first.

(i do not recommend taking apart the carb because you will need replacement o-rings if the rings are worn out; or worst you do not know how to put things back!)


draining the carb bowl will remove at least drain some debris that might be stuck in the bowl and blocking any jet needles/pins, including rust or solidified fuel additives. please find out what is a carb bowl before doing this!


0. close petcock! - very important.

1. this is the right side of the carb. the arrow pointing to the screw is the carb drain screw.

2. prepare a clean container at the bottom. there will be some dangling pipes at the bottom of bike or leading down from the carb.

3. loosen screw gently - petrol will drain from dangling tube once you open the drain screw. area around screw will get wet. this is normal.

5. inspect contents in container. discard petrol responsibly. reposition container.

6. open petcock for 5 seconds - petrol will drain out again! then close petcock!

7. inspect container again. discard.

8. gently tighten the screw (do not use force! carb made of aluminium so will break easily!

9. check that the tubes are not leaking petrol anymore. ensure it drain screw is closed. if you dont, petrol will leak out from the bowl instead of going to cylinder... and drain out your entire petrol tank!





2b-checking EO properly.


this is add on information to nuttybing's post: pls check your EO level properly!

most places in singapore the ground is not flat and level. this will cause u to read the eo levels wrongly and overfill the eo!

(or underfill).



1. when checking eo - keep bike upright! straighten steering handle.

2. check the eo on both sides of the stick - if ground is not level u will see EO on one side and not the other. (or one higher one lower).

3. insert the eo in 2 different positions as show in the image below - this will ensure that you are reading the correct eo level - check both sides as per norm:




2c - checking clutch free play

clutch free play affects how easily you change gear.

too little freeplay also affects how you easily you change your gear to neutral - this happens when your freeplay is too little and


the clutch plates only disengages only that much.


1. upright bike. make steering handle horizontal so that the slack in the clutch cable should be normal.

2. check freeplay of clutch lever. the clutch biting point starts where you start to feel tension in the cable after slightly pulling in.

3. i use my knuckle to measure free play usually - maybe index finger tip to knuckle. - see image - around 1 inch

4. adjust accordingly the clutch lever freeplay by loosening the lock nut hidden inside the rubber boot.

5. tighten and check lock nut is secured after adjustment!

6. start engine and check clutch biting point again. also - check ease of changing to neutral.

you might have to move the bike forward or backward to change to neutral more easily but it should be consistant.



operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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3. additional grounding.

why do additional grounding:

1. there is no grounding cable running throughout the bike - the chasis/frame is the ground or return path for all electrics.

(this is standard design for honda motorcycles, and also the standard electrical norm in the states.)

the chasis is than connected to the negative terminal to the battery.


2. there may not be a perfect connection back to ground for all the sub circuits in the bike:

the whole chasis is held tgether by bolts and nuts; the engine block/starter motor etc are bolted into the frame; the frame is also painted.

after years of corrosion, there may be increased resistance for the path to ground back to batt -ve.


3. this may cause other electrical problems: weaker starting or turn over of starter motor, head lamp blowing, etc.


how to do additional grounding (i did only one point grounding).

1. find a thick wire - those electrical wires from a spoilt electrical appliance would be sufficient since as they are thick enough and usually carry quite abit of current. (i used a thicker cable for high voltage application and my mech used a thinner cable for me when he was trouble shooting my bike so both works). wire should be long enough - half metre will do.


also, standby a multimeter.


2. open the right chrome cover. u will have access to -ve terminal of batt.

3. measure resistance of -ve terminal to chasis for e.g. crankcase/cylinder/starter motor etc.

last recorded best for me was 0.02 ohms. could get better.

4. for the chassis grounding point, remove the rear brake cylinder with the bolt (see image).




5. for the hole where the bolt was, use something to scrap off the paint and lightly abrade the inner surface of the screw threads to expose the conductive surface where the wire will be.


6. quick and dirty way for me was stick one end of the grounding wire into the hole, then secure the rear cylinder back with the bolt.

others may crimp the wire with a ring terminal and secure it back with the bolt. your call.


7. check resistance with the bolt, the other end of the grounding wire and the chasis again. make sure resistance should be low as previously measured.


8. if all okay, remove the bike seat. secure the other end of the grounding wire to the -ve terminal of battery.

for me i tightened the wire under the screw terminal.


9. check resistance again as per step 7.


10. before putting back seat cover, turn on bike, make sure engine can start and all electrics are okay!


11. put back seat cover and the chrome cover back.


now your grounding is done!


for those who want to do more than one point grounding, for e.g. to the cylinder or rectifier, it would be easier if you used a crimped ring terminal and then use it as a common grounding point before it leads back to the battery.


also on a side note, my bike ran leaner/hotter after doing the grounding. u might have to check your spark plug condition if its running too hot after grounding and adjust the carb. please contest my claims if you think the bike may not run hotter after grounding (due to a stronger spark with improved grounding)


operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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  • 8 months later...

I tried NuttyBing’s method of wiring the hazard lights, but I didn’t want to give up my existing 2 button switch for a Double Pole Single Throw switch which I would need to DIY further to fasten it to the handle bar. So I research and found an alternative which worked for me.

Things you need

1. (Rated 23W x 4 Winker) relay : Can be bought from LAB - $6 per piece

23w winker.jpg

2. Borsch Relay : Can be bought from LAB - $8 per piece

borsch relay.jpg

3. 1N5401 diode : $0.40 per piece. You need 2 pieces. Can be bought from Sim Lim Tower.

1n5401 diode.jpg

4. A simple handlebar add-on switch, goes for as cheap as USD2 from ebay and if buy locally should be in the range of $8 to $12. Seen it at quite a few shops liao (Planet, Motoworld etc)

handlebar switch.jpg

5. Cable lug ends specifically Fully insulated Spade connectors (female end). Lots of places selling this ($0.50 per piece, $16.50 for 100 buy from Jalan Besar Plaza)

spade connector.jpg

6. Soldering iron

7. Wires (those you recycle from unwanted 240V home use appliances will do. Or if you like to use fancy wires, then can get them from Sim Lim Tower as well for $1.50 to $2.00 a meter.

8. Big pliers to crimp the cable lug ends, or you can buy a multi-purpose crimper for as cheap as $6 from your nearby hardware store.

9. 8mm heat shrink tubes. 1m for 2.50 at Jalan Besar Plaza.


"To be continued on next post

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*Continued from previous post

10. WAGO cable connectors – can get from Home Fix DIY shops.



Step by Step

1. First you need to prepare the diodes and the wires to the relay. I suggest doing everything at home first so when you go to your bike, it’s just going to be a simple plug and play.



Do at your own risk. Especially if you are like me, then you should prepare extra 15A blade fuses/ signal relays just in case you connect the live/earth wires in reverse order. This DIY guide is not for the faint hearted or color vision impaired.


Things to do at home

2. To solder the diodes to the wires, please refer to this website for an excellent video - http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=713336874001. Just remember the banded marking of which end of the wire before you heat shrink the diode up. The connection needs to be in the correct direction. The wire which is connected to the banded end of the diode needs to be connected to the turn lights. The color coding for TA200 turn lights are light blue and orange. Since I used recycled home wires, I substituted red for orange and blue for light blue in my circuit. When you are done with the soldering, you should crimp both wires together (the end which is soldered with the non-banded side of the diode) into a female spade connector.


3. Prepare wires with 1 end crimped with a female spade connector

  • a. Black wire – for tapping to ignition key switch estimated to be at least 20cm
  • b. Green wire – for earthing the circuit. If you are planning to earth it to the frame, the nearest grounding bolt will be the one next to your chassis. In this case you will need at least 45cm. But if you are lazy to hide this hideous green wire coming out of your headlight housing, you can use the grounding terminal of the signal lights as a ground for the circuit as well.
  • c. Green wire (both end exposed) – about 10cm.


4. Prepare wires with both end crimped with female spade connector

  • a. Brown wire

5. Insert female spade of black wire to the leg marked “X” of the 23W winker relay.

6. The red wire of the new handlebar switch needs to be split to 2 points. For this, you can just connect another 2 red wires to the end of the red wire of the switch. One wire will eventually be inserted into the leg marked “85” of the Borsch relay while the other end will go to the ignition switch. Crimped one of the wires with a female spade connector. Leave the other end as exposed wire.

7. Insert one female spade end of the brown wire to the leg marked “L” of the 23W winker relay and the other end to leg marked “87” of the Borsch Relay. Now you are ready to fix the things to your bike


Things to do at Bike

8. Follow Nutty Bing’s instructions on where to tap for the ignition. But if you find it too difficult, there are also other points where the ignition can be tap

  • a. Brown wire leading the rectifier
  • b. Brown wire of the accessories socket

9. Mount the switch on your handlebar first. Then guide the wires into your headlight housing. You will stow everything inside the headlight housing.

10. The “exposed end” red wire of the switch should be connected to the ignition key switch power. This is where the WAGO cable connectors come in. Connect one wire and tap it to the ignition point. Now your WAGO cable connector becomes a mini Distribution Box for the rest of the circuits. Then insert the exposed end of the red wire (from the switch) into the new Power WAGO distribution box.

11. The other red wire (crimped with a female connector) from your handlebar switch should be inserted into the leg marked “85” of the Borsch Relay

12. The exposed end of the black wire should be connected to an ignition key switch power, and in this case into the Power WAGO connector.

13. Use a green wire (both end exposed, about 10cm) to connect to a grounding point (in this case, use the green terminal of the turn lights). Similarly, Use a WAGO connector to connect the other exposed end of the green wire to the WAGO connector. Now your WAGO connector becomes an Earth distribution box for grounding/ earth wires.

14. The green wire of your handlebar switch should be inserted into the Earth WAGO connector.

15. The spade end of the earlier prepared green wire (one end exposed, other end female spade connector) should be inserted into the leg marked “86” of the Borsch Relay. The exposed end goes into the Earth WAGO connector.

16. Insert the exposed end of the blue and red wire (the ones which were soldered with the 1N5401 diodes earlier) into the light blue, and orange wire terminal ends of the turn lights. For this you only need to unplug the bullet connector and slot the exposed wires into the connector and reconnect.

17. The female spade connector end of this red/blue wire should be inserted into the leg marked “30” of the Borsch Relay.

18. The completed circuit diagram should look like this



Have fun DIY-ing

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Tidying up this thread for sticky. :smile:



Im keeping this thread for the TS(Thread Starter) soley, so as the thread would be neat & tidy with all the neccessary infos for all.

Therefore, all other unneccessary/irrelevant post shall be either, moved/deleted without prior notice.

Fellow comrades that either have queries, or follow up relevant postings, may PM TS or me for help. :thumb:

我们都在不断赶路忘记了出路, 在失望中追求偶尔的满足..


The above information is obtained from third party sources for which I assume no responsibility.

While there is no reason to believe that the information is unreliable, no liability is accepted for any errors or inaccuracies.™®©

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