Oil Change

[william_liu]

Could be due to the different climates, let's say between U.S. and S'pore.

[aceh]

juz wonderin....after changing engine oil....there are usually a significant amount left........is it ok if i keep the remainin oil.......and reuse it for the next engine oil change........

[ANR Impex]

Originally posted by quizesilver@Dec 7 2006, 12:23 AM

bro KP,

 

juz checking with u. i been using Extra 15W50 for my spec 3.

see manual recommend 10W40 or 15W50

why is it so? to have 2 recommendation?

 

any issue in term of engine protection.

always change eo every 5000km. maybe +/- 100Km.

 

been wanting to ask but keep forgetting.

haha

To answer your question, the engine is able to work with a significantly wide range of viscosity. Actually, the modern jap engines are going down to as low as 0W20 for mass production passenger cars.

 

Considering the higher rev of the bike engine, even thinner is possible. Engines actually do not depend solely on oil film thickness for protection once they are revving at speed, so it is false to think that thicker oil protects better. The thicker oil is actually for the benefit of the gearbox. As the action of the gears reduce the viscosity of conventional oil very quickly, the thicker range is actually with consideration of oil viscosity shear down.

 

Additionally, the clutch design and the sequential shift of the majority bikes is also viscosity sensitive, with thicker oil giving more positive shifting feel at lower rpm ranges. Alot of the times when we feel an oil is 'bad' and giving mis-shift and false neutral, it is actually the viscosity of the oil thinning down to a level that is unsuitable for the clutch and shifting mechanism. It is the same effect of pouring in a too thin oil.

 

There is little negative effect of running a thicker oil for daily use other than slightly higher drag losses and slightly higher oil sump temperatures (not to be confused with coolant temp).

[ANR Impex]

Originally posted by aceh@Dec 8 2006, 05:11 PM

juz wonderin....after changing engine oil....there are usually a significant amount left........is it ok if i keep the remainin oil.......and reuse it for the next engine oil change........

Yes, it will keep as long as u keep it capped tightly.

[Guest quizesilver]

Originally posted by ANR Impex@Dec 10 2006, 12:49 AM

To answer your question, the engine is able to work with a significantly wide range of viscosity. Actually, the modern jap engines are going down to as low as 0W20 for mass production passenger cars.

 

Considering the higher rev of the bike engine, even thinner is possible. Engines actually do not depend solely on oil film thickness for protection once they are revving at speed, so it is false to think that thicker oil protects better. The thicker oil is actually for the benefit of the gearbox. As the action of the gears reduce the viscosity of conventional oil very quickly, the thicker range is actually with consideration of oil viscosity shear down.

 

Additionally, the clutch design and the sequential shift of the majority bikes is also viscosity sensitive, with thicker oil giving more positive shifting feel at lower rpm ranges. Alot of the times when we feel an oil is 'bad' and giving mis-shift and false neutral, it is actually the viscosity of the oil thinning down to a level that is unsuitable for the clutch and shifting mechanism. It is the same effect of pouring in a too thin oil.

 

There is little negative effect of running a thicker oil for daily use other than slightly higher drag losses and slightly higher oil sump temperatures (not to be confused with coolant temp).

so base on what u mention. if for 15W50... i change at 5000Km that mean for the 10W40 i have to change it at a higher freq maybe 4000Km?

haha

 

also does that mean newer bike are able to use "lower" recommened viscosity? so 10W40 wat is the normal " to change" mileage if 80% normal road use. 20% for (high rev) / clear carbon use? also for 15W50

 

i take it as a suggestion and not a recommenedation.

;o)

 

pm me if need

[ANR Impex]

Originally posted by quizesilver@Dec 10 2006, 11:01 AM

so base on what u mention. if for 15W50... i change at 5000Km that mean for the 10W40 i have to change it at a higher freq maybe 4000Km?

haha

 

also does that mean newer bike are able to use "lower" recommened viscosity? so 10W40 wat is the normal " to change" mileage if 80% normal road use. 20% for (high rev) / clear carbon use? also for 15W50

 

i take it as a suggestion and not a recommenedation.

;o)

 

pm me if need

Yes, in general a thicker oil is more durable because they all shear down with use. This is especially so for the many many non ester 10W50 grades you see on the market.

 

Maxima and some brands of ester based oils are different, they do not make such 'wide viscosity spread' oils using poor shear resistance viscosity improving polymers. For example, they achieve Ultra's 5W50 rating with use of polyol ester that are naturally high viscosity index. As a result it has a very high HTHS value of 4.9 (this is a benchmark of shear resistance).

 

So when using such high shear resistance oils, it is even more important to use the right grade to suit your bike's 'shifting sweetspot'. If you start off too thick, the oil will never shear down to the correct viscosity unlike using a regular 10W50, hence a shitty experience all the way. But use a right grade, even if it is thin, a high performance shear resistant oil will give smooth operation throughout to your 5k interval.

 

It is important for you to decide for yourself what suits your bike best. In general, the 5W50 Ultra and 15W50 Extra works very good with Super4. I'll say the Ultra 5W50 is actually a very good balance of high rev performance and exceptional street durability.

 

Maxima's 5W40 and 10W40 is bordering too thin IMO for super4. Yet if you go read up on the CBR1000RR grp, there's a long discussion on how crappy the Extra 15W50 was for them (wrong visc match, never shearing down to sweet spot). Then they were convinced to try out the very thin Ultra 5W40, they now say it works smooth all the way even when it's time to change. Now that's on a bike with >3X the hp of a super4.

 

It's not that newer bikes use thinner oil, the change in preference is due to design changes, latest trend is towards thinner with the advent of slipper clutch.

[bluesea01]

Hi ANR Impex bro,

 

 

 

I juz want to say that i'm a very happy custermor after changing to Maxima's Ultra 5W50. Currently riding a CBR1000RR 05.

 

 

Would highly recoommend this grade of oil for all Big cc Bikes, you will no regret it.

 

Cheers.

[Guest quizesilver]

bro, thanks for the pointers!

[200sx]

hey i am riding a nsr150sp... i am thinking if maxima extra 15w50 will do my engine gd since i always change gear at 5-6k and ride at 7k expressway. super short distance of 30km to and 30km fro. or just normal motul 4t can do? i need opinions

[ANR Impex]

Originally posted by 200sx@January 25, 2007 01:08 pm

hey i am riding a nsr150sp... i am thinking if maxima extra 15w50 will do my engine gd since i always change gear at 5-6k and ride at 7k expressway. super short distance of 30km to and 30km fro. or just normal motul 4t can do? i need opinions

SP 2 stroker, just use MTL or Synblend 10W40 for the gear box.

[200sx]

hey thanks bro ANR. so its like useless to use a gd fully syn for 2-strokers? since the performance won't be significant am i right? wat is the diff btw mtl and synblend? mtl have 75, 80, 85wt

[ANR Impex]

Originally posted by 200sx@January 28, 2007 12:00 pm

hey thanks bro ANR. so its like useless to use a gd fully syn for 2-strokers? since the performance won't be significant am i right? wat is the diff btw mtl and synblend? mtl have 75, 80, 85wt

It's not that it is 'useless', just that the difference won't be as significant. Full syn 4T advantage is durability in high temp, and the oil is circulated through the whole engine. 2 stroke keep the oil in the gearbox only and temperature do not get as extreme. Synblend is a semi syn 4T while MTL is a dedicated wet clutch transmission oil. Both are able to serve the purpose. Some like using multigrade 4T because it isn't so thick when cold, others like MTL because it is durable. The various MTL is the difference in oil weight.

[Guest @h_püi™]

anyone changes their own EO here? where you normally pour the old EO to after changing? thanks

[Phang]

Originally posted by Ah_pui@April 12, 2007 08:43 am

anyone changes their own EO here? where you normally pour the old EO to after changing? thanks

Bring your used engine oil to a motorcycle workshop, they have a waste oil collecting barrel and usually will let you pour your used engine oil without a fees

[Guest @h_püi™]

Originally posted by Phang@April 12, 2007 08:52 am

Bring your used engine oil to a motorcycle workshop, they have a waste oil collecting barrel and usually will let you pour your used engine oil without a fees

thx..

[joajas]

Hi ANR Impex,

 

Is it ok to use the maxima ultra --W-50 on the Pulsar 180 UG3?

[ANR Impex]

Originally posted by joajas@April 12, 2007 10:29 am

Hi ANR Impex,

 

Is it ok to use the maxima ultra --W-50 on the Pulsar 180 UG3?

What's your manual recommended grade? A grade thinner/thicker is OK.

[joajas]

I am using the grade which the manual recommended. Wat i am curious is that which is better for my bike. the extra or ultra. will ultra be too thin.

 

thanks

[ANR Impex]

The difference is negligible until you push the oil to extreme levels, and that means all out track racing or extended full throttle operation. For practical street applications, both work great and the difference is more in throttle response.

 

Ultra is slightly thinner but is also made of a higher grade of ester with an additional extreme pressure antiwear component. It also gives a more revvy response. It isn't too thin if your manual spec a _50W.

[joajas]

Thanks bro, for clarifying.

[squallgoh]

y muz pour oil away? y cant we keep e old oil in e bottle of the new oil (since it's empty now), bottle up and throw away? maybe when u do oil change at workshop.. ask for e empty btl.. den next time DIY can drain into these bottles.. den juz throw in dustbin lor..

correct me if i'm wrong.. juz MHO

[ANR Impex]

Originally posted by squallgoh@April 23, 2007 10:27 pm

y muz pour oil away? y cant we keep e old oil in e bottle of the new oil (since it's empty now), bottle up and throw away? maybe when u do oil change at workshop.. ask for e empty btl.. den next time DIY can drain into these bottles.. den juz throw in dustbin lor..

correct me if i'm wrong.. juz MHO

Try not to do that, if the oil end up in landfill, it will eventually contaminant the land. By pouring into the disposal, you're actually helping to recycle the oil.

[uberstore]

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b349/Uberstore/amsoillogo_iso1.gif

 

Get your Amsoil Synthetic Oil at

 

Tachyon Motor Pte Ltd

 

Blk 3006 Ubi Road 1

#01-350

 

Tel : 8113 9137

Email : [email protected]

 

 

http://www.cruxoil.com/sitebuilder/images/10W40-149x300.jpg http://www.cruxoil.com/sitebuilder/images/20W50-149x300.jpg

 

Specifications

 

 

 

 

 

Specifications

[mikeang33]

I riding VXR Runner 200 06 model.

 

any one DIT change EO for this bike before.

 

care to share what EO is good.

 

I used the Paggio Service Centre give EO i think is Castrol.

 

very ex $23 without labour

[ANR Impex]

Give future scootering a try, their prices more competitive than what u mentioned. They're scooter specialist and will advise you better.