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Posted
diesel will do the job..

after u wash wif water, spray chainwax/chainlube correctly..

wrong application will give no lube effect on the chain.

search the thread to understand the correct way of lubing the chain..

as for the jack location, the jack is place under the middle section of the whole exhuast system(mid pipe)..

be careful not to exert any unnecessary pressure on the fairings..

:)

 

Thanks bro for the tips. So i should place the jack at the exhaust stomach or the pipe near the stomach.?

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=171433&d=1262780355

 

Enrol 2B - - - - - - 02 Feb 09

NSR SP - - - - - - - 23 May 09

.

Life is full of choices.

Depending of which choice u made,

It will change ur fate/destiny.:pray:

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Posted
Thanks bro for the tips. So i should place the jack at the exhaust stomach or the pipe near the stomach.?

 

anywhere around there will do..

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted

hey for those who clean or lube their chain using wd40, please read the following wall of text.

 

UPDATE: WD-40 and Motorcycle Chains

wBW Visitor "R.S." sent us some interesting information on the use of WD-40 on motorcycle chains:

 

"Saw your article on using WD-40 for chains and you asked for evidence of potential harm that WD-40 can do, so am attaching a photo. This photo is of a bearing surface from an airplane.

 

WD-40 as a solvent.This is a ball and races in a sealed bearing that had been subjected to regular use of WD-40 for a year or two. The grease was NOT cleaned out before taking this photo - there simply is no grease and the brownish tint is really rust.

 

The ball had grooves (visible) and was shaped like a potato chip. The races had not evenly worn (see sectioned edge) and were rutted in spots, although neither shows too well.

 

We learned that WD-40 is really good for the light uses that it was intended for and that needs to be emphasized. However, it is largely a penetrant, which will do just that!

 

Once it penetrates into the sealed area, it dissolves the petroleum out of the grease, leaving the clay binders. What's left in the bearing is essentially dirt that cakes up, causing the balls to skid. Without the petroleum, the bearing will also rust.

 

The reason that kerosene and diesel fuel are still favorites and recommended by the chain people is that while both can be penetrants, they are a thicker petroleum and just what the O-rings are trying to seal against. Of course, gasoline cleans about the same, but with thinner viscosity and better penetrating power. In all honesty, I still use gas to clean (I'm lazy), but don't beat the bike often, regularly measure for linkage stretch and sprocket wear, and re-lube on every other tank of gas."

 

Moral of the story is to not use WD-40 for cleaning motorcycle chains.

 

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/

 

you gotta scroll to the bottom to have a look at the pic. cheers.

in search of the magical fuel penguins

Honda CB400F

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
Here's my way of cleaning:

 

Things needed: A bottle of engine degreasser, WD40, chainlube/wax of any brand.

1) Spray the degreasser on the chain and sprockets generously and spin the back wheel a few times. Then let it works for 5-10mins. (You'll see all the dirt, sand and oil residue drip like nobody business)

 

2) Wash over the chain with water thoroughly to remove any excess dirt & degreasser.

 

4) Wipe the chain dry and spray WD40 to remove excess water stuck in between the x-o ring and let it set for 10-15mins.

 

5) Spray chainlube/wax generously from the inside of the chain followed by the outside.

Spin the rear wheel to make sure the lube/wax sits nicely on the chain.

 

6) Wipe off excess lubes/wax and dont the ride the bike for at least half a day.

 

Results: Shiny chains and sprockets. Lube/wax does not splatter all over the rims.

Rarely need to tighten chain & last but not least save money on chain and sprockets wear and tear.

 

I did this twice a month...

Just my 2 cents...

Cheers!!!

 

hi bro, i got a couple of qns to ask. n i must admit tt i'm a newbie. so maybe will tend to ask noob qns. here goes..

 

1. cud u recommend some engine degreaser?

2. wad kind of cloth to wipe the chain dry ah? normal rag can?

3. whr n wad is x - o ring ah? how is it look like?

4. whr is de inside n de outside of the chain ah?

5. do i need to ride 2 round with in de car park to warm my chain first before starting step 1?

 

hope to receive ur reply soon. sry for those noob qns. thanks. :cheeky:

如果能让我回到过去,

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我会紧紧抓ç€ä½ çš„æ‰‹ï¼Œ

抱ç€ä½ ï¼Œå¯¹ä½ è¯´å£°ï¼š

“我爱你ï¼â€

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Posted

yeah man uncle koh. Our simple Oiler rox.. working so so so good.. i Share your method with everyone in Pk le.. later FNO sure gonna be fun. Join us =D

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

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Posted
1 diesel..

2 any absorbant cloth....old and dirty doesnt matter..your chain is full of sh it any way.

3 x and did..just chain description with o rings in it...

4 inside and out side..please google bike chain design..u have answer there...too long to describe here.

5 hey..u want to use xxepnsive sticky sprays..do that for best results..

 

after a few clean ups...u will say sh it..this si hard work..may be a chain oiler is a good altenative..IMHO>

 

oic. thanks so much. sry, but cud i ask...

 

1. whr can i get diesel cheap?

2. can i use de following method instead?

- soak a dry cloth wid diesel n wipe thru the chain.

- use water to rinse off the diesel and wipe it dry using a dry cloth

- wid out using WD40 to remove excess water between the x-o ring, straight away spray chain lube onto the chain.

- let it rest for half a dae

 

can dis following method be use? thanks.

如果能让我回到过去,

我ä¸ä¼šå†ä¸¢å¤±ä»»ä½•的机会,

也ä¸ä¼šæŠŠè¿™å‡ å¹´å‘对你说的è¯è—在心上。

我会紧紧抓ç€ä½ çš„æ‰‹ï¼Œ

抱ç€ä½ ï¼Œå¯¹ä½ è¯´å£°ï¼š

“我爱你ï¼â€

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee267/saDdy_J/Bike/img1146editted.jpg

Posted
buy at petrol station..get a steel container with cap..will do..

 

i will do this..

1.use a brush apply diesel on chain..let it work on it..

place newspaper on floor..u will see all sorts of goo dripping down..

2.wash chain with water..and air dry..

3.. apply the lube..

 

use an oiler and it saves u all the unpleasant task..as its function as a chain cleaner as well..

 

hmm. thanks for ur great reply. but den oiler ex isnt it? :cheeky:

如果能让我回到过去,

我ä¸ä¼šå†ä¸¢å¤±ä»»ä½•的机会,

也ä¸ä¼šæŠŠè¿™å‡ å¹´å‘对你说的è¯è—在心上。

我会紧紧抓ç€ä½ çš„æ‰‹ï¼Œ

抱ç€ä½ ï¼Œå¯¹ä½ è¯´å£°ï¼š

“我爱你ï¼â€

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee267/saDdy_J/Bike/img1146editted.jpg

Posted
buy at petrol station..get a steel container with cap..will do..

 

i will do this..

1.use a brush apply diesel on chain..let it work on it..

place newspaper on floor..u will see all sorts of goo dripping down..

2.wash chain with water..and air dry..

3.. apply the lube..

 

use an oiler and it saves u all the unpleasant task..as its function as a chain cleaner as well..

 

that's the correct way to do it. i can't over emphasize on the fact that the chain needs to be degreased and rinsed thoroughly with water (with a hose to jet off the oil) and DRIED before applying lube.

 

the drying is the most time consuming part, i need to spin the wheel many times while holding the chain with newspapers to make sure its bone dry or else the lube will not stick properly later on.

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Posted
that's the correct way to do it. i can't over emphasize on the fact that the chain needs to be degreased and rinsed thoroughly with water (with a hose to jet off the oil) and DRIED before applying lube.

 

the drying is the most time consuming part, i need to spin the wheel many times while holding the chain with newspapers to make sure its bone dry or else the lube will not stick properly later on.

 

sound pretty lot of work. lolx. gotta to take half a dae at least. :faint:

如果能让我回到过去,

我ä¸ä¼šå†ä¸¢å¤±ä»»ä½•的机会,

也ä¸ä¼šæŠŠè¿™å‡ å¹´å‘对你说的è¯è—在心上。

我会紧紧抓ç€ä½ çš„æ‰‹ï¼Œ

抱ç€ä½ ï¼Œå¯¹ä½ è¯´å£°ï¼š

“我爱你ï¼â€

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee267/saDdy_J/Bike/img1146editted.jpg

Posted

guys.. checking thru the forum for chain information for the past 2 hours...

 

If got any sound from your chain, will be these 2 conclusion

1) chain too loose "Chain jump out from spocket"

2) Chain too tight "snap"

 

Anyway, i just change to DID Gold O-ring and new spocket 15/39 last friday.

Didn't notice any sounds since last week, until today.. any reason? I guess it's either of the 2 reasons above.. Will check out with my fav bike shop tml... I guess still can go for at least 20km?

 

Comments?

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted
guys.. checking thru the forum for chain information for the past 2 hours...

 

If got any sound from your chain, will be these 2 conclusion

1) chain too loose "Chain jump out from spocket"

2) Chain too tight "snap"

 

Anyway, i just change to DID Gold O-ring and new spocket 15/39 last friday.

Didn't notice any sounds since last week, until today.. any reason? I guess it's either of the 2 reasons above.. Will check out with my fav bike shop tml... I guess still can go for at least 20km?

 

Comments?

 

check yr chain slider if any..

is it continuous sound or onli at moving off or sudden accelerating??

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
check yr chain slider if any..

is it continuous sound or onli at moving off or sudden accelerating??

:)

 

chain slider is ok.. continuous sound... tick tick tick...

 

Irregardless moving off or etc.. check with mech.. understood that it's because the spocket and chain doesn't "click" thus created the sound.. have to wait til they click with each other.. den the sound will go off.. :sian::dozed:

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted
chain slider is ok.. continuous sound... tick tick tick...

 

Irregardless moving off or etc.. check with mech.. understood that it's because the spocket and chain doesn't "click" thus created the sound.. have to wait til they click with each other.. den the sound will go off.. :sian::dozed:

 

spocket and chain dun match?

have u do chain conversion?

:confused:

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted

chain conversion? I guess nope...

I'm riding a 2B bike.. KR150... Kawasaki kips...

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted
chain conversion? I guess nope...

I'm riding a 2B bike.. KR150... Kawasaki kips...

 

during my time, even class 2B bike oso do chain conversion..

we use even smaller chain than stock..

so i dun noe u got do or not..

:cheeky:

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
during my time, even class 2B bike oso do chain conversion..

we use even smaller chain than stock..

so i dun noe u got do or not..

:cheeky:

 

there is a strong possibility that one/some of the links are kinked..( ie the rollers shaft is not round/straight thus interferring with its rotations) as they unravel themself creating the clicking sound. imho..

my solution for that is to oil chain thorughly..of course if u can see that any particular link is out of place thats the one to oil ..and with time hopefully the kink goes away. but the sad fact is that that link is already damaged..if u can replace that , that will be best.

 

my friend (previous Mech) come and see and check for me liaoz..

 

It's the spocket issue.. he help me change and now it's ok liaoz.. :)

 

the previous spocket really doesn't click with the chain.. thus "creating" noise and tell us.. "We can't click lah" :)

 

problem solve.. thanks for all the comments.. :)

 

btw for the chain conversion.. my friend also dunno wat's that.. Any idea where is it on a KR? :) thanks..

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted
icic..it is best to change both chains and sprocket together....if not, the not so good parts will wear out the new parts faster.

 

no worries.. I've just change the whole set last week nia.. :sian::sian:

:) :) :)

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted
my friend (previous Mech) come and see and check for me liaoz..

 

It's the spocket issue.. he help me change and now it's ok liaoz.. :)

 

the previous spocket really doesn't click with the chain.. thus "creating" noise and tell us.. "We can't click lah" :)

 

problem solve.. thanks for all the comments.. :)

 

btw for the chain conversion.. my friend also dunno wat's that.. Any idea where is it on a KR? :) thanks..

 

chain conversion is using smaller size chain and smaller spocket to suit the chain.

in the past, is say to reduce the gross weight of the bike and increase in pick up..

but due to the high rate of wear and tear, the idea of this conversion was dropped..

for sp, in order to use smaller chain, u have to change the hub..

for kr, juz need to change the spocket to suit the reduced size chain..

look around those bike that go for jackpot racing, u will see the diff..

but not much on the road nowadays..

For class 2 bike, the stock chain size for some model is 530.. after chain conversion, the chain size used will be 525 instead..

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
chain conversion is using smaller size chain and smaller spocket to suit the chain.

in the past, is say to reduce the gross weight of the bike and increase in pick up..

but due to the high rate of wear and tear, the idea of this conversion was dropped..

for sp, in order to use smaller chain, u have to change the hub..

for kr, juz need to change the spocket to suit the reduced size chain..

look around those bike that go for jackpot racing, u will see the diff..

but not much on the road nowadays..

For class 2 bike, the stock chain size for some model is 530.. after chain conversion, the chain size used will be 525 instead..

:)

 

thanks for the information... mine might be using bigger size.. thus is chain conversion required? mine is KR.. the sound thingy came back again.. i change spocket, the sound came back.. I change bearing, the sound came back even worse.. so now I'm puzzled... :sian::sian::dozed::dozed:

Bike shop now ask me to change bearing to original and try.. i was thinking.. siao.. so much money spend.. ask me change this and that.. :dozed::dozed:

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted
thanks for the information... mine might be using bigger size.. thus is chain conversion required? mine is KR.. the sound thingy came back again.. i change spocket, the sound came back.. I change bearing, the sound came back even worse.. so now I'm puzzled... :sian::sian::dozed::dozed:

Bike shop now ask me to change bearing to original and try.. i was thinking.. siao.. so much money spend.. ask me change this and that.. :dozed::dozed:

 

Is hard to get the root of the problem juz based on wat u explain.. Maybe u can try to a few diff bikeshop and see wat they say..

Mepkoh explain oso got a point.. Can be other reason too..

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
Is hard to get the root of the problem juz based on wat u explain.. Maybe u can try to a few diff bikeshop and see wat they say..

Mepkoh explain oso got a point.. Can be other reason too..

:)

 

there is a strong possibility that one/some of the links are kinked..( ie the rollers shaft is not round/straight thus interferring with its rotations) as they unravel themself creating the clicking sound. imho..

my solution for that is to oil chain thorughly..of course if u can see that any particular link is out of place thats the one to oil ..and with time hopefully the kink goes away. but the sad fact is that that link is already damaged..if u can replace that , that will be best.

 

Hi, ok.. make it simple

 

Problem: sound ticking *after I ride and chain and everything warm up.. with pillion the sound will be more obvious...

 

Things done: change wheel bearing and spocket.. *chain and spocket brand new.. Chain not loose nor too tight.. as per bike shop "mentioned"

 

If bike is cool down after 15min or MORE... the sound will go away..

 

Before I change my chain and spocket.. no sound... Any idea?

 

thanks for all feedback...

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted
the symptom u described ...seems that the chains link/pins or rollers is bad..

with load this is louder....

cools down okay...as the chain warms up..expansion will cause the pins/rollers to get distorted badly..thus creating the sound..

i would conduct test....put bike in rear stand and run bike apply brake while in gears to stimulate load...

try to listen / figure out where the noise comes from....it could be a simple case of chains striking the swing arm or something..

 

hmmmm.. so most likely is the chain? even thru brand new ar?

 

is there any possiblilties that it might due to the bearings?

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted

And one more thing.. Wat chain guard u using? Stock or the aluminum one? Check that is not place too near to the chain..

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
the symptom u described ...seems that the chains link/pins or rollers is bad..

with load this is louder....

cools down okay...as the chain warms up..expansion will cause the pins/rollers to get distorted badly..thus creating the sound..

i would conduct test....put bike in rear stand and run bike apply brake while in gears to stimulate load...

try to listen / figure out where the noise comes from....it could be a simple case of chains striking the swing arm or something..

 

hmmm, sorry huh.. you haven't reply me.. is it possible for the chain to have problem even thru it's new?

 

if the wheel bearings is creating the clicking sound....soon u will find the bike behaving differently in a uncontrollable manner..especially when u take a corner, mind u this could be dangerous.

 

i find okok lei.. that's wat the bike shop told me.. "wun you feel weird when cornering?" I find normal lei.. anyway, for safe guard.. I'll change all my bearing at planet tml.. if sounds continue.. I guess it's time to stay away from JB once and for all.. tiring to run in and out every few months... :dozed::dozed:

 

And one more thing.. Wat chain guard u using? Stock or the aluminum one? Check that is not place too near to the chain..

:)

 

no worries.. it's the stock chain guard.. those "rubber/plastic" ones.. not those metal ones that will break easily.. :)

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

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