[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[tim17]

ah-pek... i ask you..

 

why when i riding my bike... i can feel that the front fork quite jerky... like riding horse... is it fork oil need to change??

[Ah Pek]

nahh. i thot of buying motul 300v at jb. kinda cheap thou. 30ringgit per bottle? yeahh. i dont mind the draining of eo. the changing of oil filter is what im worried of. do wrongly without proper tools = finding for trouble.

 

OIC..go to one of the tool shop along LAB..can get the oil cap type opener for about $26..made in Japan..very good material quality. Need a size 27 "C" spanner too or or box wrench extender (either one) to use with it.

[Ah Pek]

Thick EO is good but not too thick. When the EO is too thick, it is not able to reach all the engine parts fast enough during startup.

 

SAE40 is SAE40, there is no such thing as SAE40 for petrol engine or diesel engine.

 

 

May be may be not...can't give a clear answer for it but if its for both, I'm certain they would not just specified "For Disel"...same like Caltex Delco Sae 40, was told that it can't be use. Basically I know that SAE 40W is "Gear Oil" and if you do find Castrol brand..it just says "gear oil". I remember Shell SAE 40W is called "Rotella" and was use for disel engine too. The only concern is what is in it that gets to the upper cyclinder end of the day..I have been using Castrol all the while but its hard to find them anymore.

 

I think its better to stick to STP or Blue Coral..its vicosity enhancer and just as thick...but at least it just don't say for diesel only.

[wubefrub]

saw blue coral at mustafa just now..reminded me of bubble tea..but i saw there are a few types (??) which one u guys refering to?

[Ah Pek]

Ah Pek... any idea what is the most thick EO available in the market here???

 

Is it 20W50??? I checked the SAE40 i had its for diesel engine. So now no choice, had looking for other option.

 

20/50W, 10/30W...etc..they are known as multigrade and meant to cover all temperature range uses...from cold weather starting to maximum protection at it hottest. SAE40W is jsut great for old bikes and we need not worried much about cold weather as its nit very common here. 20/590W is jsut great...but if you wanna get a little more to SAE 40W thickness...I suggest you find an SAE 40W that just don't specify for "Disel"..just don't sound right for me. Castrol I use in the past in 1 litre container and never specified any..but just "gear oil". If memory serve me well..there are other specific brands that carries SAE 40W without the "for disel" as well...brands like Belray, Duckham, Penzoil and a few others. You can only find them in shop that sells strictly motoroil only.

 

As for the thickest SAE most commonly higher than SAE 40W..its SAE 90..ots what I use for my shaft driven bike last time for my shaft transmission gear box. the thickest and uncommon is SAE 120W I think.

 

Anyway...for your SAE 40W...I suggest you go for STP or Blue Coral oil treatment..there are other brands like "JB Bros." and a few others too. STP is only $5.50 near my place here as compare to anywhere else at $6.90 to $7.90. That one tin is just great for...from 3 to 7 litre of eo.

 

Like Jojas say...don't mixed it too thick..it must feel thick yet pour on watery. Other there will be a lot of back compression and hydraulic action in the engine at hi rpm and would retard performance. This can also leave areas unprotected and corn-rod can get bend. Gasket can blow too..now you know why I have a bleeder rather then a eo gear box cap

[Ah Pek]

saw blue coral at mustafa just now..reminded me of bubble tea..but i saw there are a few types (??) which one u guys refering to?

 

The brown colour content one...says.."oil treatment"...good for 4 litre to 5 litre eo mixes. Mustafa is a bit expansive...go to NTUC hub or NTUC festive mall..cheaper.

[Ah Pek]

why when i riding my bike... i can feel that the front fork quite jerky... like riding horse... is it fork oil need to change??

 

hi Tim17..not sure what you meant by "jerky" and I never riden a horse before in my life leh. Horse ride jerky meh/...looks more to me like bouncy rather.

 

Anyway..is it soft or spongy and the handle bar goes bouncing up and down? Like to know the proper sympton before I give you my opinion.

[Ah Pek]

Repeated Post.

[Ah Pek]

Repeated Post.

[Ah Pek]

Repeated Post.

[Ah Pek]

pek! i wanna do grounding uh..can help? what do i need? and how do i get what i need? pm me ah..ur inbox full already sia...i cannot send pm to u..

 

Sorry Wubefrud...I clear it later and send you a message afterwards. The server keep getting 'hung' for every post or trying to access it...sighhhh.

[tim17]

hi Tim17..not sure what you meant by "jerky" and I never riden a horse before in my life leh. Horse ride jerky meh/...looks more to me like bouncy rather.

 

Anyway..is it soft or spongy and the handle bar goes bouncing up and down? Like to know the proper sympton before I give you my opinion.

 

yeah... like kinda soft... and bouncing up and down...

[Ah Pek]

yeah... like kinda soft... and bouncing up and down...

 

Nort sure how long ago have you last change fork oil but whatever it is, I think it has insufficient fork oil or could be just 2T oil instead of fork oil. The next think is that i presumed you do not know how much they put in.

 

Okay..if that was my bike, I go buy a bottle of 1 litre PJ fork oil 10W or 20W and have the mototiam use it the next change and filled level should be at least 450cc...preferrably 480cc to 500cc for old bikes.

 

You can oso just top up another 30cc for each fork and see how it improved...if not, gradually top again by 10cc till you find its okay.

 

Don't change any hardware..the spring would never go bad..some tension lost is normal.

[teokw]

Me riding verS.

I need to top up my coolant reserve once weekly.

Think somewhere it's leaking...

Every top up, about 1 small cup....

 

anyone know what/where could be the problem?

[Winners]

Me riding verS.

I need to top up my coolant reserve once weekly.

Think somewhere it's leaking...

Every top up, about 1 small cup....

 

anyone know what/where could be the problem?

 

Suspect your radiator cap to be faulty.

[WingZer0]

Nort sure how long ago have you last change fork oil but whatever it is, I think it has insufficient fork oil or could be just 2T oil instead of fork oil. The next think is that i presumed you do not know how much they put in.

 

Okay..if that was my bike, I go buy a bottle of 1 litre PJ fork oil 10W or 20W and have the mototiam use it the next change and filled level should be at least 450cc...preferrably 480cc to 500cc for old bikes.

 

You can oso just top up another 30cc for each fork and see how it improved...if not, gradually top again by 10cc till you find its okay.

 

Don't change any hardware..the spring would never go bad..some tension lost is normal.

 

 

 

 

Yup agree with Ah Pek on that....or can try using Yamoil (fork oil). Even when I change my tubes last time my spring were still very gd condition after 10yrs....

 

 

Btw Ah Pek u sure u never ride horse b4?

[Ah Pek]

Suspect your radiator cap to be faulty.

 

Yeap!..think winners spot on. If your cap is new...then may be its likely come loose or improperly tighten. To see if the cap is bad..look underside the cap and check the air rubber seal. If its flat and hard..time to change. careful about getting a new one..most mototiam sell $28 (made in Thailand)..check with S4vtec in AMK Rider thread where he got his for $10.00.

[Ah Pek]

Yup agree with Ah Pek on that....or can try using Yamoil (fork oil). Even when I change my tubes last time my spring were still very gd condition after 10yrs....

 

 

Btw Ah Pek u sure u never ride horse b4?

 

Two legged female horse got lah...various breed somemore..but never jerks leh..tim17 one like wild stallion like that..worst then Rodeo riding mannn!

[xiaowen]

hi, anyone can help me. today while ridding. i feel some water splashing on my right leg. so i thought it was from the car in front. later on i open up the side panel. and my coolant level was still above "lower" level. so i assume it was normal. Later on when i got back to my bike. i saw abit of coolant (green liquid) on the floor. it was below the radiator area there on the left side. my coolant is leaking!!! i cannot troubleshoot where it was from. i open up my side panel this time, it was empty. tml need to top up with water to travel to motorshop? meanwhile, can anyone see what the problem with it?

[Ah Pek]

hi, anyone can help me. today while ridding. i feel some water splashing on my right leg. so i thought it was from the car in front. later on i open up the side panel. and my coolant level was still above "lower" level. so i assume it was normal. Later on when i got back to my bike. i saw abit of coolant (green liquid) on the floor. it was below the radiator area there on the left side. my coolant is leaking!!! i cannot troubleshoot where it was from. i open up my side panel this time, it was empty. tml need to top up with water to travel to motorshop? meanwhile, can anyone see what the problem with it?

 

One thing for sure its leaking from somewhere. Not sure how you check but take off your fuel tank top up both the reserve coolant container and oso from your radiator cap. put back your tank, start your bike and throttle lock at certain rpm. Now bend low and look at all the rubber tubing taht connects your coolant system. One of those cerclips tightening the hose may have come loose under pressure. Also check if the two chrome like metal shinning tubing (one on each side) is leaking at the seal point (hold by a size 10 hex nut) that goes into the engine block coolant water jacket.

 

Not to oversight..see if your radiator cap is ok.

 

If all the above is proper and you see your water coming from the radiator itself..one of the arrays of coolant tube in your radiator may be puncture (cause by foreign object hitting it thru your mesh or corroded from inside out).

 

REMEMBER..do this check with hi-rpm..so that the water runs under pressure...and see where the water is dripping from.

[xiaowen]

thanks ah pek. should not be anything serious right? i will troubleshoot tml morning. as well as paying a visit to the motordiam. anything will update you guys tml.

[xiaowen]

 

If all the above is proper and you see your water coming from the radiator itself..one of the arrays of coolant tube in your radiator may be puncture (cause by foreign object hitting it thru your mesh or corroded from inside out).

 

so if this is the case, how much will it cost to repair it?

[Ah Pek]

thanks ah pek. should not be anything serious right? i will troubleshoot tml morning. as well as paying a visit to the motordiam. anything will update you guys tml.

 

If any of the circlips is loose..just use a phlillips screw screwdriver and tighten it..need not go mototiam..otherwise he said this say that must change and you go home $4s poorer. Make sure you watch what he do and asked him to show you the leak. If I will him and you not watching, I poke hole on the tube and then show you..whole set not cheap hor.

 

The radiator itself is at least $280++ to $300...not sure. But if the arrays of tubing is leaking..there are radiator repair shop that can do welding sealing or change a whole new set for you..like new and at cheaper cost. Wait till its confirm then we see how.

[Burnout69]

Wah ahpek so free.. not sleepin yet ah

[xiaowen]

noted. thanks ah pek. erm by the way, i see some brown dried up stain above my carb. i assume something must be rusted leaving the stain behind when mix with the coolant water. am i right to say so?