[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[Ah Pek]

Ah Pek any brake pads to recommend? was introduce to EBC . . . wonder its good?

 

Well...can't say about EBC or other brands..I have been using just the normal ones like Fredo, Wpc..etc..all the years with my S4. Not into racing so no need so good and ex ones..as long as I can still brake in safely from 160 km/hr..ha..x3!..only $22-$23 per set.

[keeny]

Hey guys! im riding a version S right now. Anyone can advise on the fork diameter? Is it same as vtec 41mm?

I want to change to the clip ons handle bar. hope someone can help!

 

Cheers

[jordanspy]

What oil is 4T oil or petrol oil ?

Sometime is chain oil ,to many u put come out from there !

 

Better check yr engine oil lever !

If u scare bring to shop and ask !

 

its engine oil..

 

I went to the bike shop and check.. they changed a oil seal @ the clutch lever side. cost 20bucks =\

still trying it out see if it still leaks. They suggested if leakage still continues, overhaul is needed -___-

any comment??

[angwenjie89]

Lucky u asked..Denso U24FER9. No need iridium unless u are riding continous long distance trip like to Thailand.

 

sorry ar just to ask that so i just go bike shop say help me change to denso spark plug can le? just say don need iridium de? any bike shop will do?

[Steven_7115]

sorry ar just to ask that so i just go bike shop say help me change to denso spark plug can le? just say don need iridium de? any bike shop will do?

 

I today only change my self denso around 15minit , go Spair part shop bought new !

Jln besar ah boy shop meybe can get chip and good !

For rider Better leans something ok !

I can help u !

Don't worry ok !

I thing u find denso around $20-$30 is not bad plug oledi .

Give yr contact no :

[neronz]

tyre thread going to botak soon. any recommendation for ver s??

[Ah Pek]

tyre thread going to botak soon. any recommendation for ver s??

 

Try Dunlope Arrow Max..cheap and good at $200+ per set. Make sure its 110 front & 140 back.

[Metal_Heart]

Am using Arrowmax, the grip is good, can corner till clear strips still sticks well on the road. Good feedback too.

 

Btw Ahpek, sometimes I want to electric start my bike. I press only got a click, no crank. I have to engage to gear move the bike then only can start. This happens randomly not all the time. Bike still start in a few cranks, doesn't take long. It's just that sometimes got CLICK! press again CLICK! Have you experienced this before? Thanks bro.

[Ah Pek]

Am using Arrowmax, the grip is good, can corner till clear strips still sticks well on the road. Good feedback too.

 

Btw Ahpek, sometimes I want to electric start my bike. I press only got a click, no crank. I have to engage to gear move the bike then only can start. This happens randomly not all the time. Bike still start in a few cranks, doesn't take long. It's just that sometimes got CLICK! press again CLICK! Have you experienced this before? Thanks bro.

 

Few possiblities..1) Starter Motor carnon brush wearing off (reserve bike in second gear clutching in and then release clutch till u hear a whinning sound and try starting in neutral again..just a method to confirm faulty carbon brush). 2) Could be neutral switch 'faulty'..or back contact due to dirt and oil (located under the crankcase near side stand) and 3) ignition switch may have back contact.

[Metal_Heart]

Few possiblities..1) Starter Motor carnon brush wearing off (reserve bike in second gear clutching in and then release clutch till u hear a whinning sound and try starting in neutral again..just a method to confirm faulty carbon brush). 2) Could be neutral switch 'faulty'..or back contact due to dirt and oil (located under the crankcase near side stand) and 3) ignition switch may have back contact.

 

I think maybe my carbon brush wearing out like you said. Neutral switch I just change about 4 months ago. Thanks Ah pek, I'll try your advise.

[Steven_7115]

Few possiblities..1) Starter Motor carnon brush wearing off (reserve bike in second gear clutching in and then release clutch till u hear a whinning sound and try starting in neutral again..just a method to confirm faulty carbon brush). 2) Could be neutral switch 'faulty'..or back contact due to dirt and oil (located under the crankcase near side stand) and 3) ignition switch may have back contact.

 

Ah Pek is a good man !

Very friendly can tell all the problem ,

Good I like u !

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[xiaobanz]

Hai~ today i skidded while during a U-turn at braddell. Didn't even touch my brakes but ony used my engine brakes to slow down. There was an oil patch on the road as i walked over to check how come without warning i just went down. Initially i thought it was my bike's petrol after the accident but it was located 10ms behind me..

 

Btw, my bike hit the curb after i skidded and my header, speedometer, forks, rims, and to summarise, pratically my front part is smashed. What do you guys think the damage is to repair or i just leave it alone and scrap it. No matter how much i tried to est., it seems what the repair is going to cost at least 1k ~ 2k (if the engine block is fine). The bike is nearly 15 years old and this accident may crack the block as it impacted the curb at a "good" angle.

[ghs]

Recommended tyre is definitely Dunlop Arromax. Like Ah Pek mentioned, 110 and 140 since thats the stock size for version S. Been using that and is really good. Just take note of the wax layer over the tyres when u just change it, need to let it wear off before you feel stable..

[ghs]

Hai~ today i skidded while during a U-turn at braddell. Didn't even touch my brakes but ony used my engine brakes to slow down. There was an oil patch on the road as i walked over to check how come without warning i just went down. Initially i thought it was my bike's petrol after the accident but it was located 10ms behind me..

 

Btw, my bike hit the curb after i skidded and my header, speedometer, forks, rims, and to summarise, pratically my front part is smashed. What do you guys think the damage is to repair or i just leave it alone and scrap it. No matter how much i tried to est., it seems what the repair is going to cost at least 1k ~ 2k (if the engine block is fine). The bike is nearly 15 years old and this accident may crack the block as it impacted the curb at a "good" angle.

 

Hmm..not too sure how much repair will be, but if its going to cost 2k for the repairs, personally i might just scrap the bike...but then again, might be good to check out how much it cost first..dont think it will be so expensive..hope ur okay after the fall!

[ghs]

Anyway guys, have another question..After i did a "carb wash / tuning", my bike can start better, the carbs sounded and feel like they are more responsive / "in-line with each other"..

 

However, now the bike has another problem..I can never exceed 8k RPM on all gears...and top speed only 120km! any idea what may be the cause of this? The feeling when the bike reach 8k is as though the valves are closed (initially it will try to open so feels very jerky)..check with mech and they said is some wiring issues, but bike was okay before i let them clean my carb!!

 

One thing to note, i dont have that small "sensor" knob thing on the right side of the carbuettor just below the fuel tank..i believe all bikes have that small thing, but i dont (didnt have it since i purchase..) and the mech said it might be due to that...any idea where i can find it or even fix this problem?

 

Cheers!

[ghs]

multiple post cause of lag..

Edited November 16, 2011 by ghs
multiple post

[Ah Pek]

Hai~ today i skidded while during a U-turn at braddell. Didn't even touch my brakes but ony used my engine brakes to slow down. There was an oil patch on the road as i walked over to check how come without warning i just went down. Initially i thought it was my bike's petrol after the accident but it was located 10ms behind me..

 

Btw, my bike hit the curb after i skidded and my header, speedometer, forks, rims, and to summarise, pratically my front part is smashed. What do you guys think the damage is to repair or i just leave it alone and scrap it. No matter how much i tried to est., it seems what the repair is going to cost at least 1k ~ 2k (if the engine block is fine). The bike is nearly 15 years old and this accident may crack the block as it impacted the curb at a "good" angle.

 

Repair is definitely more than 1k..but again, u can settle for certain parts to be replace with 2nd items (rims, handle bar)..even a chiong meter new set at $280 or so..Spec 3 chiong head lamp set complete at $80...etc. In case you just wana scrape it..its not worth that procedure..u have to pay $80 and a little more for transportation. Its better u sell the useable parts bit by bit till the frame and main crank mid housing left (these 2 items with body works serial numbers) than scrap this.

 

Tow to Ah Fook and get an estimate for repair first and tell him u don't mind using 2nd parts.

[Ah Pek]

Anyway guys, have another question..After i did a "carb wash / tuning", my bike can start better, the carbs sounded and feel like they are more responsive / "in-line with each other"..

 

However, now the bike has another problem..I can never exceed 8k RPM on all gears...and top speed only 120km! any idea what may be the cause of this? The feeling when the bike reach 8k is as though the valves are closed (initially it will try to open so feels very jerky)..check with mech and they said is some wiring issues, but bike was okay before i let them clean my carb!!

 

One thing to note, i dont have that small "sensor" knob thing on the right side of the carbuettor just below the fuel tank..i believe all bikes have that small thing, but i dont (didnt have it since i purchase..) and the mech said it might be due to that...any idea where i can find it or even fix this problem?

 

Cheers!

 

This is not the first time I heard and all cases I know is after washing carbs. 2 possibilites...1) Your carbs may be damaged (internally) or something not done right...2) wiring is a possibility but again..u did mentioned it was ok b4 carb servicing.

 

I always never encourage carb servicing by dimantling and opening it up unless u wanna have internal parts change i it. There are other methods to wash a carbs to make it function well as usual without disassembling it..cost less and less than half and houror even not at all.

 

GT..for ur case..I suggest that u asked them to rectified the problem as it happened after their work done.

[Ah Pek]

Ah Pek is a good man !

Very friendly can tell all the problem ,

Good I like u !

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for the kind words but I'm just being helpful whenever I have time for the passion of keeping our bikes well.

[tiku]

ah pek.. some update of my bike... gt my bike back... mech helped me to clean the tank, not cheap wor... he say my tank gt water..then saying those tube v dirty(not too sure wat he was refering to), help me clean thse residue... after travelling 120km plus.. no stall at the moment.. but i still can feel the poor response esp if i accelerate above 3k... can still feel the fuel wan to go in and don wanna go in .... they nv check the carbs for me... is it carb dirty? or wats ur point of view?

[Ah Pek]

ah pek.. some update of my bike... gt my bike back... mech helped me to clean the tank, not cheap wor... he say my tank gt water..then saying those tube v dirty(not too sure wat he was refering to), help me clean thse residue... after travelling 120km plus.. no stall at the moment.. but i still can feel the poor response esp if i accelerate above 3k... can still feel the fuel wan to go in and don wanna go in .... they nv check the carbs for me... is it carb dirty? or wats ur point of view?

 

Could be...what about ur fuel pock?..did they clean that too? Btw..what tubes?..tank got tubes meh? Btw..if u wanna clean ur carbs..make sure don't have it dismantled.

[neronz]

Thanks for the recommendation! will change to arrowmax soon..

 

another question. the coolant in my coolant reserve reservoir has drop from the high mark to somewhere above the low mark since my last coolant flush. I have only traveled 900km for around 1month + since the last flush. The coolant by right should not drop that fast right?

 

so far i did not notice any leak from the engine or from the radiator. Temp light did not light up. but one weird thing is the coolant color in the reservoir seems to change to abit muddy color from the original purple color..

[Ah Pek]

Thanks for the recommendation! will change to arrowmax soon..

 

another question. the coolant in my coolant reserve reservoir has drop from the high mark to somewhere above the low mark since my last coolant flush. I have only traveled 900km for around 1month + since the last flush. The coolant by right should not drop that fast right?

 

so far i did not notice any leak from the engine or from the radiator. Temp light did not light up. but one weird thing is the coolant color in the reservoir seems to change to abit muddy color from the original purple color..

 

There is no "by right or by wrong"..its how the bike is used in different environment. Coolant which has a certain content percentage of water (distilled or deionsed) and water does evaporates. If u r caught in a jam or rightjust as hard..heats builds up and while coolant is cooling it at the engine block..that's where its 'used' up and level does drop..in short, its normal.

 

As for ur muddy looks in colour..time to have a clean flush..that's sign of rust forming in ur radiator or the hose has rus formation under it. Rusting starts in the radiator when tap water is used.

[tiku]

Could be...what about ur fuel pock?..did they clean that too? Btw..what tubes?..tank got tubes meh? Btw..if u wanna clean ur carbs..make sure don't have it dismantled.

 

yup they claims they clean the fuel cock... they mentioned my bike doesnt come wif a metal tube connected to the fuel cock and say it wont affect the performance... nt too sure wats that

 

carb cleaning, ah pek can u help me wif it?? btw i gt some ques regarding carb cleaning, wifout dismantling, how to see if the rubber thingy or jet needle requires replacement?

[Ah Pek]

yup they claims they clean the fuel cock... they mentioned my bike doesnt come wif a metal tube connected to the fuel cock and say it wont affect the performance... nt too sure wats that

 

carb cleaning, ah pek can u help me wif it?? btw i gt some ques regarding carb cleaning, wifout dismantling, how to see if the rubber thingy or jet needle requires replacement?

 

".bike doesnt come wif a metal tube connected to the fuel cock "...what's that mannn?..never heard of it..don't have means problem liao..LOL!

 

Why u wanna see?...the idea is not to touch or adjust anyting inside as per factory set up or risk of daming it. Definitely there are wear marks as items like the needle jetting pins and floating pins are use items. Unless you wanna to change them..then u do. As for the rubber..see if there is any harding and cracks on the surface outside. Anyway..since ur bike never stall...I guess u better not do anything else unless u wanna change parts in ur carbs..spend more $$$s.