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Posted
there are also some kuku sellers ard, 01 model R1 & R6 selling ard the same price... there r still many many more unbelieveable people..still got people sell 2006 R6 for 17.5k,milage 16k same price as the machine price now... funny?

 

Welcome to Garage Sales :)

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x23/Tyrael7/Bike/sig.jpg
Posted
there are also some kuku sellers ard, 01 model R1 & R6 selling ard the same price... there r still many many more unbelieveable people..still got people sell 2006 R6 for 17.5k,milage 16k same price as the machine price now... funny?

If the R6 is still in stock condition, then confirm kuku seller. However, if he had fully mod the bike, I don't think he was being unreasonable... :cool:

First learn stand, then learn fly. Nature's rules biker-sans. Not mine...

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/1859/11superbikesmackdown11.jpg

The more we get together, the FASTER we'll be..

 

Mar 93 - Oct 94 : TZR125 FF5209R

Oct 94 - May 98 : GSX R400N FK3745K

May 98 - Oct 05 : GSX R400R FN3306D

Oct 05 - June 11 : '02 YZF R1 FBF3637M

June 11 - Feb 19 : '11 ZX10R

Feb 19 - ??????? : '14 S1000RR

Posted
If the R6 is still in stock condition, then confirm kuku seller. However, if he had fully mod the bike, I don't think he was being unreasonable... :cool:

 

wah AIE, i juz realised tat ur post count reset liao.

 

first time see anyone's post counter go 1 complete round

 

macham change meter :lol:

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x23/Tyrael7/Bike/sig.jpg
Posted
wah AIE, i juz realised tat ur post count reset liao.

first time see anyone's post counter go 1 complete round

macham change meter :lol:

I had the post count reduced lah, bro. Our forum post count is not like a mileage meter where it will go back to 0 after completing a certain amount. :cheeky: I had it reduced cos hard for me to do my moderating job and warn post clockers when my post count is the 2nd highest in the forum in a period of less than 2 years. I warn them and I kena tio back... :lol:

First learn stand, then learn fly. Nature's rules biker-sans. Not mine...

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/1859/11superbikesmackdown11.jpg

The more we get together, the FASTER we'll be..

 

Mar 93 - Oct 94 : TZR125 FF5209R

Oct 94 - May 98 : GSX R400N FK3745K

May 98 - Oct 05 : GSX R400R FN3306D

Oct 05 - June 11 : '02 YZF R1 FBF3637M

June 11 - Feb 19 : '11 ZX10R

Feb 19 - ??????? : '14 S1000RR

Posted
Well, you're making a mockery of ASTM specs, if you do not know what they represent, then do not speak like you know :nono: Maybe you might want to phone people who are technically inclined (like Mr Kinwei for one, or another trained engineer like Mr HamsterZ) to ask them what ASTM specs is all about. It is effectively a waste of time explaining things to you in a technical manner.

 

http://www.astm.org/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/index.shtml?E+mystore

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ASTM

 

Ya, it really a waste of time for you to keep on loging in here to explain thing to mi , that i dun know. So you meaning other EO company dun follow the so call whatever ASTM specs. I got other forums for you to go and check too, you know bob?? the oil guy??? maybe such technically person like you can join that forum and explain thing so technically to them. Maybe they will understand ,but after surfing around that forum, i dun seem to find those technically person on that forums, cos i dun find them using 5W50 EO.

Maybe only technically person will know that using 5W50 is good, but for mi 15W50 or 10w50 is good enough for mi and my bike.

Posted
he is the legendary WW..

malaysian tp cannot capture him on camera.. only a black fog is caught on cam..

:cheeky:

 

This one dun anyhow say lei, i was caught before lei. #$%@#!%^ and waited 2hr at the office just to buy them some coke

Posted
No need to retired lah... cause u are the track master and maybe he is wheelie master. LOL...

 

This one super cannot say lei, he is tha real wheelie master along with suzuki13, suzusky, rico and 2222 lei.

Posted

good morning to all. what exhaust brands are there for R1 03? What actually is a power commander? what does it do? hope u guys could help me on this. :cheeky: ..

Food For Thought

 

Bread pudding.

Single light cream is the type of cream most commonly used for cooking. However, this type of cream should not be boiled as it will curdle. Also, always add hot liquids to the cream rather than the cream to the liquids, in order to avoid curdling. Single(light) cream has an 18 percent fat content.

Posted
there are also some kuku sellers ard, 01 model R1 & R6 selling ard the same price... there r still many many more unbelieveable people..still got people sell 2006 R6 for 17.5k,milage 16k same price as the machine price now... funny?

 

one form of advise, when buying 2nd bikes ... this is how dealers do the trade in or determine their selling price

COE + INSURANCE from 1st owner = not counted in valuation.

 

Things to count.

Current new or that yr Machine price value exclude GST

 

for example

Current machine at $22k

1yr mkt value at $22k -20% = $17600

2yr mkt value at $22k -30% = $15400

3yr mkt value at $22k -40% = $13600

4yr or more @ 8%p.a@decreasing rate.

above selling price excludes insurance and transfer fees, provided bike stock std, high millage will incurr another 5% deduction, low millage remains the same.

 

after mkt accessories to count

shocks 50% of mkt value

exhaust 40% of mkt value, slip-on 30% of mkt value

cams, slipper clutchs etc 50% of mkt value

PC, brake pumps, 30% of mkt value

aftermkt fairings 40% of mkt value

wheels like BST etc..50% of mkt value

brake calipers 60% of mkt value

 

things that dun count

sliders, seat cows, engine carbon protector parts, tanks bags, rear sets, brakelines, windshield.

 

i noe it hurts to see stuff spend and not be counted ... haiz

Sigh .... so bored ...

Getting Poorer every yr

Posted

I think we have enough of the EO disscusion.

Mr. ANR got his own reason why the 5W50 is good and i have got my own reason why i perfer the 10W50 or 15W50. So chaning to watever fully sys EO whether will it break down your bike faster, i think it still depend on how you take care of your bike and the frequency of chaning the EO.

And Mr. ANR, this dissusion is just like to break in new bike the hard way or soft way. There is no real soild proof on the hard or soft run in will cause engine break down faster, i think that go the same for different type or grade of EO. Even when you get your bike, your manual wont state which EO you should use, but rather a guild to follow on which country your are riding your bike.

You recommend maxima 5W50 grade to newer bike model with slipper clutch bulit in with your spec. And i recommend 10W50 to other as a butt dyno of proof of my bike as a example and from my CBR400 to now almost 8yr , i had been using 10W50 or 15W50 most the time on my own bike. I think that enough for mi to continue to use it. Other ppl will have other type of EO they like to use or recommend to other, i am not focing them to use 10W50 here.

 

And for the rest reading here, be it maxima, castrol, esso, fuchs,motorex or respol EO. some will say this is good, that is good, just like yahama will say it R1 is better than gixxer, and honda will say it cbr 1000 is better than kawasaki. It a neverending story. Only when you use it or ride it than you wil know, but ulitmaly some will object to it.

 

So Mr. ANR, if really want to educate mi on watever ASTM, pls do so when we meet up during the weekend malaysia trip along with the 2 technically guy kinwei and hamsterZ.

Posted
gone racing? hehe nah i think it's cos there r 3 gixxer threads ie 600. 750 & 1K and most r in either e 1k or 600 thread though. aiya til now i wish i had gotten e 750... there r really really tons of 600s out there and esp e black version.

 

Dun bluff, you had wish to get the CBR600 more than anything. LOL

And your buddy is getting one. LOL

Posted
This one super cannot say lei, he is tha real wheelie master along with suzuki13, suzusky, rico and 2222 lei.

 

hahaha... only you will know more mah. he is your wheelie kaki. too bad i get my bike late lor... really miss out lots of fun.

"éšä»”,è¦åŽ»å—Ž"("Handsome, want to go")?!!! wahahaha....

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z51/DenverDino/CRW_4732-1-1.jpg

Posted
Built quality, Akra seems better. But arrow should be cheaper to repair.

 

Aiya. ppl ask about akra and leo vinc lei. you say arrow----->.

Posted

Design by you guys. Pls try not to give mi design of very big size and many many colour, We try to stick it to front logo, and a rear logo. Front logo should not measure bigger than 8cmX8cm , Rear logo should not be bigger than 8cmX15cm.

After design pls send it to mi, and we have a poll to chose which desgin to be make. End date 17th of aug for design, collection of $$$ by end of aug. And, if only every have pay.

Polo-T material, dry-fix. Size range from XXXS-XXXL

 

NO PINK NO PINK NO PINK

 

1)CBR379

2)Johan

3)siaopig, 1 L ( name put Nic ), 1 M ( Name put Adeline )

4)diablo_gixxer M (name put nick)

5)kOpi - M

6)ninjaboi9 - L (name put RiC)

7)J73 - M

8)Jonse - M

9)dirtbag - 2 x "S" (1 put nick, another blank,only the shirt)

10) Murphy - 1 x XL (Name put MURPHY LIP)[Pls dun get the spelling wrong again]

11) Maverick001 - 1 x Size "S"

12) Mengz_Zai - 1 x XL /put nick on one side and Suzuki K5 1000 on the the other side

13) ah-seng - xxl

14) Kori - 1 x M put nick one side K6 1000 on the other

15) Kori - 1 x L put Raymond one side K6 1000 on the other

16) Punk - 1 M one side punk number 30 on the other

17) sky_walker - L No nick

18) Sky_walker - XXS No Nick

19) Kiamquay - 1 x L (no nick)

20) Gixxer24 - 1 XL ,1 side Nick,e other side Suzuki K51000

21) Skye - 1 xs ,1 side Nick,e other side Suzuki K51000

22) Yongster - 1 x L, put nick on 1 side

23) Gixxertan - 1 x M (No Nick)

Posted
This one dun anyhow say lei, i was caught before lei. #$%@#!%^ and waited 2hr at the office just to buy them some coke

 

gd wat... heard u get to watch free movie too :cheeky: hahahahaha...

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q255/punkchenko/1_540916461l1.jpg

 

yun leong ngo cheh yat sam pat kei fung chung ngoi chi yau

yau wui pat yau yat tin wui tit tow

Posted
good morning to all. what exhaust brands are there for R1 03? What actually is a power commander? what does it do? hope u guys could help me on this. :cheeky: ..

 

 

 

Yoshimura very :thumb:

I selling my street legal Yoshi tri-oval carbon fibre slip on exhaust ...

interested ?

Let the good times roll .

Posted

Last Sunday I saw a Ducati 1098 at Changi ... turning slowly into a carpark ... Yesterday I went to Excel at Kaki Bukit ... saw a 03R1 with loads

of accessories ... the best part is the front ohlins fork arm is mounted with radial type brake caliper ... BUT the bike is selling @ 19k :faint:

Let the good times roll .

Posted
yup i think so too

 

got ur tyre changed le mah?

 

Haven..Ask Norman to keep for me as well as order a rear 2CT then i will change both together..Boddy told me coming in end month but high chances is early august..

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/akrapovick4/thedoctor.jpg
Posted
I think we have enough of the EO disscusion.

Mr. ANR got his own reason why the 5W50 is good and i have got my own reason why i perfer the 10W50 or 15W50. So chaning to watever fully sys EO whether will it break down your bike faster, i think it still depend on how you take care of your bike and the frequency of chaning the EO.

And Mr. ANR, this dissusion is just like to break in new bike the hard way or soft way. There is no real soild proof on the hard or soft run in will cause engine break down faster, i think that go the same for different type or grade of EO. Even when you get your bike, your manual wont state which EO you should use, but rather a guild to follow on which country your are riding your bike.

You recommend maxima 5W50 grade to newer bike model with slipper clutch bulit in with your spec. And i recommend 10W50 to other as a butt dyno of proof of my bike as a example and from my CBR400 to now almost 8yr , i had been using 10W50 or 15W50 most the time on my own bike. I think that enough for mi to continue to use it. Other ppl will have other type of EO they like to use or recommend to other, i am not focing them to use 10W50 here.

 

And for the rest reading here, be it maxima, castrol, esso, fuchs,motorex or respol EO. some will say this is good, that is good, just like yahama will say it R1 is better than gixxer, and honda will say it cbr 1000 is better than kawasaki. It a neverending story. Only when you use it or ride it than you wil know, but ulitmaly some will object to it.

 

So Mr. ANR, if really want to educate mi on watever ASTM, pls do so when we meet up during the weekend malaysia trip along with the 2 technically guy kinwei and hamsterZ.

 

I totally agree that your own personal preference of whatever brand you want to use in your bike is sacred and up to you. If you wanna put cooking oil into your bike, I will defend your right to do so.

 

I TOTALLY DISAGREE that the durability of the EO is 'depend on how you take care of your bike and the frequency of chaning the EO.' If we are even comparing how fast EO breakdown so that you can use the oil longer, how can you 'depend on frequency of change'?? Of course must compare at same milage of use, and the whole point is that a tough oil stays in optimal grade longer, and especially important in a sport riding style.

 

To use the right viscosity and a tough oil is to give the best performance from day 1 to as long as possible. Typical 10W50 isn't the best choice, this is well known if you read up on how viscosity index typically affects durability. The weak HTHS is indicative too. If you need an explanation, it means High Temp High Shear test at 150degC. It is designed to simulate a hardcore use of the oil, squashed between 2 tight fitting surfaces in a shearing action. In short, it reflects toughness and protection of the oil in a gearbox/cams/piston rings pretty well, these are the most stressed parts on a bike engine. The Maxima products are clearly ahead despite being thinner, erasing the wrong idea that thick oil always protects better.

 

The only reason you think this is an argument with no result is because you fail to understand what ASTM, JIS and the various tests is about to engineers. Engineers do not pull numbers out of their a$$ because the specs must be repeatable. If the junior engineer speak like you do to the head engineer in Japan (base on butt dyno and preference), you still dare to ride their bike at full throttle?

 

Jr Engineer to head:

"Oh I think it will be be good enough Miyagi-san, no problem, I am the All Nippon Ghost Rider of Gunma, I ride HARD, I overtake 600cc's on one wheel like a unicycle after they overtook me on the bends, even that Takumi toufu guy smell my smoke, I overtake him with sheer power come the last final 1km straight. I can balance a toufu on my tank down the hills, even on 1 wheel. I dun think it will be a problem base on my personal experience" Then comes Max Biaggi in WSB destroying the engine because he rides harder? Don't understand ASTM, JIS specs, don't make a mockery of it Mr WW.

 

Your layman 'understanding' and 'recommendations', while true to your own butt dyno preference, may not apply to others because others may not have the same 'spec' butt dino. This is precisely why these standard repeatable numbers are quoted to indicate and compare an oil's performance, along with countless others that makes our bikes, our world safe and reliable.

 

As for repeatedly hammering that I am pushing Ultra, that's baseless. I recommend the typical 10W40 all along, just like for the Blade in Shark's case.

 

I never say 5W50 is the magic grade! The Ultra 5W50 comes closest to 40 grade and gives excellent durability and protection that exceeds many thicker oils. I make the recommendations base on the actual Centistokes viscosity at operating temp, and the projection of how long the oil is able to retain that viscosity base on specs and user feedback.

 

YOu come across as clueless what the visc numbers really mean. Their real viscosity goes beyond what is printed on the bottle (ie, 10W40), and must be derived from DATASHEETS (that might be another unfamiliar term to you, since u not engineer). I am too lazy to 'educate' you, but since you openly question me on my 'recommendations', I will openly give u back the facts, to show how wrong you are.

 

The typical 10W50 has been known to turn watery very fast, indicative of poor viscosity retention, a weak oil in layman term. All this can be backed up with actual lab analysis of your own used oil, doesn't cost much (US$30), more than happy to assist anyone who wants to verify for themselves. With a 10W50, you're really using an oil that rapidly drops closer to 10W40 after change. This supports my point of using a good 10W40 (or Ultra 5W50 for a Maxima specific product). Sure, please use Motul 300V Double ester too (in case WW accused me of pushing brand again), that's one of the very few brands that's on par in toughness and quality to Maxima.

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