The GSXR 600,750 & 1000 Hangout. Where All GSXR Riders Chill And Gather!!

[benson]

Y no matter wad I do or change still can't get rid of the jumpy part when moving off from a stop? it only last from 1000rpm to 2000rpm, aft that its smooth liao.

btw, I jus change from my motul 300v 15w50 to motul 300v 10w40. Its amazing how fun it is to ride now but engine sound seems too loud.

an also, any1 got fren or ride b4 the tmax 500? very keen in trading the cupkia in for it!

[dumgum]

hi guys, does any1 know any shop with runout gauges to measure if rims r out of shape?

 

bro...not a joke ok....but if you can find bicycle shop willing to do it for you ...sure can see if rim bend or not...they have the rim gauge.

[dumgum]

hi bro of gixxer, need to ask some questions abt my K81k...

 

1. What is the FC of the bike? I'm getting abt 180 and the blinking light is on...is that ok?

2. Do you guys go for tuning after changing exhaust? I'm having alot of kind of like backfire but not exactly...alot of pop pop pop sound when dropping gears...current using yoshi dual exit end can with yoshi y pipe....silencer is out....

3. What type of tires is good for 1K bike? My friend told me duo compound..any recommendations?

4. Do u feel the steering abit light? I'm feeling light because my previous ride is a CBR1K and Honda has the electronic steering damper...I did saw a steering damper on this bike, but not sure if it's electronic...thinking of changing it to stiffer one...

 

 

thanks in advance for any advises coming in....hope to join u guys for kopi and learn more from u guys....cheers...

 

1. FC - depends on your riding style..ecp riding..small roads.

 

2.Poppings ound common...you can do a pair valve mod to cut out 70-80% of the popping sound.

 

3. Tires - wah this 1 headace....lol....compound type....profile type and $$$...basically...race type tires gd(soft compound,better grip,more confident in corner) not gd on rainy or wet roads, costly and dnt last long. The rest you shld know lah street or dou compound..many different reveiw...lol...how that helps.

 

4. Honestly..best get after market damper....be4 you kanna tank slap...kekeke..me kanna be4....super feeling...lol

 

my 2 cents advice.

Edited January 19, 2009 by dumgum

[dumgum]

noob question:

erm for those k7g6 who has dynojet-ed their bikes(with pc3 and aftermarket exhaust but oem headers)whats the advantage u get?where does the difference lies at?torque?hp?better midrange or...

wanna know more abt this..

thanx greatly appreciated.

 

1st understand what dyno run is for...

 

Dyno Tuning is a systematic approach to tune engines by determining the actual condition and capability of the engine first and then increasing power and torque by fine tuning after incorporating modifications and adjustments.(AIR FILTET/EXHAUST/CAMS)DEPENDS ON YOU

 

An engine performs best with a correct ratio of air to fuel called stoichiometric mixture. That stoichiometric mixture is usually (14 parts air to 1 part fuel in idle and 12.6 parts air to 1 part fuel in full throttle) GIVE OR TAKE) KEKE

 

running on the dyno the exhaust gas is analyzed to determine if the mixture is correct. Too much fuel means IT running "rich", too much air means the IT running "lean". To correct any fuel ratio differences changes are then made.

 

Then making fine tuning adjustment to increase-smooth out torrque. basically you will feel the biT smoother and either or fc increase or decrease..once again(riding style)...LAYMEN TYPE...LOL

 

SHORT N SIMPLE...

Edited January 19, 2009 by dumgum

[dumgum]

Anyway guys,

 

What exhausts are most of you using for the K6-7 750??

 

Which one do u think is the nicest and most shiok in terms of sound and outlook?

 

Which endcan gives most bhp increase?

 

Sorry to ask so many questions, asking for my bro!

 

1. no SUCH THINGS AS BEST EXHAUST- SK PPL ABT EXHAUST AND THEM TELL YOU MANY TYPE( end day depens on you and the $$$ flow)

slipon are ok..but if wan really power go FOR FULLSYSTEM.

 

2. Just for info....same bike same exhaust and mods...you will still see differents if you dyno...kekeke weird but true:box:

[dumgum]

kekeke....here is a short understand of tire profile...lol

 

Recently, I became very curious about the differences and subsequent affects on handling, between the 3 most common sizes of tire available today - 180/55, 190/55 and the 190/50; when mounted on a 6 inch rim.

 

After much consultation, it became obvious that there were two schools of thought -The pro 180s, and the pro 190s.

 

I decided to dive into the Internet and other resources to find out as much as I could, so that I could form an educated opinion for myself.

 

For those that are not aware:

 

6 inch rear rims are typically found on ALL late model 1000s

 

5.5 inch rear rims are typically found on ALL late model 600s and some early model 1000s.

 

If you are not sure, then whip out your tape measure and find out for yourself you lazy git!

 

Here goes...

 

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x314/mysticzx10/146-0302-tire5-01-zoom.jpg

 

I found this very revealing picture while researching about the pros & cons of a 180/55 tire versus a 190/50 & 190/55, on a 6 inch rim.

 

 

 

What I found validated what some of my most trusted resources divulged to me.

 

But hey, seeing is believing! (Since I have always been a stubborn twat.)

 

 

Steering

 

Firstly, if you compare the 180/55 with the 190/50, you will notice that the center of the 190/50 is very flat, this gives the 190/50 heavier steering from vertical. The 180/55 has a much more pointed profile, giving it quicker steering. (True)

 

Contact Patch

 

It is popular belief that 190/50s are the original fitment size on most modern 1000s from manufacturers, as they put down a bigger contact patch just off the center of the tread, making it slightly safer for a ham-fisted “newbie” rider. However, this has never been officially acknowledged.

 

As for contact patch at full lean, the 190/50 may well have less of it than a 180/55, because of the way the 190/50 has to curve around the edges near the end of the tire. The 180/55 gives an almost flat contact patch on each side of the tire, due to the taller profile that makes the shoulders “stick out”, giving it it’s typical “triangulated” shape, which is also steeper in terms of angle.

 

But when comparing the profiles of the 180/55 and the 190/55, I was surprised to see that they were identical! They both have exactly the same profiles. The only difference is that the 190/55 is uniformly taller than the 180/55 all around. So, it may be correct to say that the 190/55 is a copy of the 180/55 with a little bit more rubber across the whole cross section of the tire, to deal with “drive grip”.

 

Interestingly, the edges of the tire end at almost the same spot for the 180/55 and the 190/55, which in lay-man speak, may indicate that both tires are probably capable of the same maximum lean angle. This may dispel the myth that 180/55s on a 6 inch rim may not allow you to lean over as far as a 190/55.

 

The only variable here would be the side wall height, how that height contributes to the stiffness and how that stiffness translates to grip.

 

Ride Height

 

These are the heights of each size of tire from tallest to shortest:

 

(Note: Actual measurements may differ from brand to brand)

 

Ride height is the width of the tire (eg:190), multiplied by the aspect ratio(eg: 55, which is a percentage of the width.)

 

Formula: For a 190/55 tire, 190mm x 55% = 104.5mm

190/55 104.5 mm

 

180/55 99 mm

 

190/50 95 mm

 

Surprisingly, the 190/50 is the shortest tire among the three.

 

As for adjusting the ride height, there seems to be no hard or fast rule.

 

National racers around the world adjust the ride height EVERY SINGLE TIME THEY CHANGE TIRE BRANDS OR SIZES. Their reason is that different sizes of tire affect the geometry of the bike, which can make it behave very differently. Different brands of tire may also not be of the same size; even if it says so, on the sidewall. (This is a fact.)

 

Other industry professionals say that it is not necessary, as the tire has been made for it to work straight out of the box. An example of this would be when a 190/55 is fitted to an R1 Yamaha - It's Exciting!. The increase in rear ride height would make the bike flick much easier than before, and may well be intended to work as such.

 

This leaves us in the middle, so; if it feels fine, it may be better not to fix it! Or, ask someone you trust.

 

Manufacturer’s Recommendation

 

Contrary to popular coffee shop ramblings, a 180/55 is a recommended tire for BOTH 5.5 & 6 inch rims. Dunlop actually supplied 180/55s to a certain magazine when they were performing a group 1000s test. Both are also rated similarly (73W).

 

However, it is WRONG to put a 190 section tire on a 5.5 inch rim. It distorts the profile and leaves it with a multiple radius.

 

 

My Conclusion

 

For ultimate grip, the 190/55 is a sure winner on paper. It has the handling qualities of the 180/55 with more rubber all around to deal with drive.

 

However, it does give away a little in terms of weight and also changes the geometry of the bike. Anyone that has ever used a 190/55 can vouch that they are obviously huge tires.

 

Their size proportionately affects acceleration, braking and cornering negatively due to the added weight.

 

It's the same as fitting heavier rims, since both rims and tires are considered unsprung weight. Unsprung weight is whatever the suspension does not have to support.

 

The 180/55 also does increase the rear ride height by 4mm, but it is a small change when compared to a 190/55 which raises it by almost a full centimeter!

 

The trend as it seems now is to create bigger and bigger contact patches for drive grip on the side of the tyre. This can be done in 2 ways:

 

1. Reducing the rim size, ala MOTOGP.

 

(17inch to 16.5 inch and maybe even 16 inches in the future.)

 

Making the rim smaller creates more space for more rubber, especially on the side.

 

2. Increasing the aspect ratio.

 

(Popular for production based racing where rim sizes cannot be changed.)

 

If you researched race tires, you will be able to find 190 size tires available in slicks with aspect ratios of up tp 70% (190/70)!!

 

The second method is proving very popular with racers around the world.

Edited January 20, 2009 by dumgum

[dumgum]

Alamak...cant post picture of tire curve and profile...dam dam..sorry boys n gals.

 

2 cent knwledge to share...lol

[Dark Lord]

Alamak...cant post picture of tire curve and profile...dam dam..sorry boys n gals.

 

2 cent knwledge to share...lol

 

Upsss bro...

 

[dumgum]

some interesting web site:

 

http://www.onthethrottle.tv/

 

http://videos.howstuffworks.com/discovery-turbo/14018-twist-the-throttle-the-mv-agusta-factory-video.htm

 

http://www.sasbk.co.za/

[R1Rider]

ok i've checked with the us forums, some said 07/08 stock r1 runs too lean on air/fuel ratio, so must adjust the tps readings. the 16 100 i quoted above, is in degrees.

 

 

have u did the air screw turn..??

i did turn the air screw at the throttle body to open more air ...it helps but still stall sometimes....my best curing is i SOLD it.....and say im enough with 08 R1...

waiting on 09 here.....hope everything fixed on the 09.....

 

ur 16-100 is seem OK for me (in the normal range)....so ur TPS is not a problem...

[TinyTanic]

TPS = Throttle position sensor. Translates your throttle input into signals to send to the ECU. Works like a little potentiometer actuated by your throttle cables. Located under the fuel tank. 2 of them. One under your airbox, the other sub-TPS on the side, near the frame.

 

 

BTW, don't worry abt that chip. Your bike meant for riding, or just for a show/poser bike?

Don't worry, just ride.

 

Your bike is meant to be thrashed hard. U ride on road, you're gonna stone chips on your front fender soon. You ride on track, you're gonna get chips all over your fairing belly pan soon enough.

 

You ride to KKFC, you're gonna get fried chicken oil all over your throttle grip very soon.

 

Why so serious??

 

nothing serious... no lah im not a poser aniway... some time also abuse abit when road is clear... but haven reach the max yet.... love to try but no balls. haha

 

but but but...

 

If u get too many chips, then the photo will not look nice as forum signature already

 

 

aiya just go team shinez lor bike wash... ok wat... or DIY at nearest multistorey car washing area. r u hinting my signature bro??? hahaha. aiya tat pics my gf took it for me... ahakz...

[Blueblood]

bro...not a joke ok....but if you can find bicycle shop willing to do it for you ...sure can see if rim bend or not...they have the rim gauge.

 

ok will try but dunno how to support the bike when i remove the rim....

[KickStrt]

dum dum finally spoken...

where is my "suspension for dummies"?

[ET]

anyone knows which shop selling the Brembo forged 19x20mm master cylinder with non-folding brake lever, how much are they selling?

[NiteKidz]

Bro, is your previous ride Cbr 400? Cos i have a friend who share the same nick as yours.

 

I just share my experience with you. My Fuel consumption is 240km before reserve. After i change my exhaust to Arrow Thunder dual exhaust, it only dropped by 10km and achieve 230km before my fuel reserve light start to bling.

 

Normally when changing of exhausts will make our bike leaner, so tuning is necessary. Suzuki is a bit different from other manufacturers as we can go for taka mapping for generic tuning, unless you own a PC then you can go for a Dyno session. For my point of view, if you are comfortable with your ride then save your money as the tuning would not have a great difference. Less 'popping' perhaps.

 

As for steering, your cone, as time goes by you need to tighten it up. New bikes normally manufacturers don't tighten to the max for us. Our damper is so called 'Half Electronic' haha!!! i called it 'Useless' also although it does a bit of help. Change it if you have the chance. Bitubo damper maybe..

 

Tire, it's all individual preference. For me Corsa 3.. Wat tires did you use when you are riding your Cbr 1000 RR? Maybe try back what you use cos we have different riding style, what suits me maybe not suits you.

 

My 1 cent worth of view:shades:

thanks bro for the advice, sorry but my previous ride is not cbr400.....

 

my bike is relatively new....so i guess it's usual for the bike then....planning to change my tires with the threadline looking rather thin liao....where is a good place to shop for tires then....

[dumgum]

dum dum finally spoken...

where is my "suspension for dummies"?

 

TRY THESE SETTING : THEN FINE TURN TO YOUR RIDE STYLE

SETTING BASIC ON : WEIGHT 72-78KG ; HEIGHT 168-175

 

 

front preload : 8.5 turns out FROM STIFF

front rebound damping:1 turn out from full stiff

front comp damping:1.75 turns out from full stiff

rear preload:14mm thread showing from top of threads to top of spring

rear rebound damping:1 turn out from full stiff

 

HIGH N LOW SPEEDING: REAR COMP DAMPING

 

( GSXR 600 2006 AND ABOVE )

slow speed:1.75 TURN OUT FROM FULL STIFF

 

high speed:3TURN OUT FROM FULL STIFF

 

PLEASE DO YOU SAGGING..IMPORTANT HOR...LOL

 

HOPE THIS HELPS...KEKEKE

[dumgum]

Almost forgotten

 

try at your own risk....kekekeke

[dumgum]

ok will try but dunno how to support the bike when i remove the rim....

 

BRO..WAN I MEANT IS THE OLD SKOOL MOTORCYLE SHOP...

THEY HAVE THE TURNING TUNER FOR SPOKE WHEEL....AS I BELIEVE IT AND ALSO CHECK THE WHEEL ST8 OR NOT....kekeke

 

saw it done once..

[dumgum]

oh oh...just for info

 

brembo 19x18, 19x20, 16x18 master pump can be change.

 

for say..u have 19x18 but dnt like the feel..buy a 19x20 brembo piston kit and rebuild...

 

kekeke....but i doubt any1 here will even bother...kekeke

[RedGixxer688]

hi guys, does any1 know any shop with runout gauges to measure if rims r out of shape?

 

ok will try but dunno how to support the bike when i remove the rim....

 

Bro, you need paddock stand or not? I can loan you mine. Just SMS me when you need. But dun ask me bring to work or you hor ... so mafan.

[Dr M]

oh oh...just for info

 

brembo 19x18, 19x20, 16x18 master pump can be change.

 

for say..u have 19x18 but dnt like the feel..buy a 19x20 brembo piston kit and rebuild...

 

kekeke....but i doubt any1 here will even bother...kekeke

 

kekeke kekeke kekeke...slap ur face than u know...

[-PeNsKe-]

hey lo-on ...so sorry but i forgot i got a date with AIE and frenz to go play bowling..haha.. u wanna join us there instead? maybe we can go malaysia ourself after bowling n makan just for a ride..

 

and yes aie.. i wont fly u aeroplane dun worry..slip my mind.. my mind so slippery nowadays..haha

and to everyone else ...sorry gotta cancel/postphone the nasi lemak makan thing.

 

Wow.. Msia.. Can i join???

 

Remember to call me.. I will pick up this time. Heehee...

[MC28]

Knn, porn site spam... :lol:

[Aie]

=-;4995836']Wow.. Msia.. Can i join???

Remember to call me.. I will pick up this time. Heehee...

Wah, after so long then you reappear huh? How are you, bro???

[honam24]

thanks bro for the advice, sorry but my previous ride is not cbr400.....

 

my bike is relatively new....so i guess it's usual for the bike then....planning to change my tires with the threadline looking rather thin liao....where is a good place to shop for tires then....

 

Oh, guess my long lost friend is not around anymore. haha!!!

 

Stock tire to me is not that 'Good Enough' so before i took out my bike, i already changed to Corsa 3. Was very good on the road. good on the track as well but dun last long after few sessions.

 

Maybe you can try bikeworkz located at 157 Kaki Bukit ave 1 Shun Lin Industrial Park.