Different types of oil

[ziyang123]

Hi guys, i'm a noob, need help from oil expert to help answer my question.

 

What are the properties and differences of the following oil?

 

1. Engine Oil

2. Chain Lube

3. Petrol

4. 2T

 

Thank you!!! Enjoy your day =)

[slayer2cool]

1) EO: Use for lubrication of the engine and the transmission. viscous and isnt exactly the same as compared to a car engine oil.

2) Chain lube: Use for the lubrication of chains. the lube gets in between the linkages and reduces friction, wear and tear.

3) Petrol: for combustion

4) 2T: Mix with petrol for 2 stroke engine and act as a form of engine lubrication. unless normal 4T engine oil, 2T oil get burns too with the petrol.

[ziyang123]

1) EO: Use for lubrication of the engine and the transmission. viscous and isnt exactly the same as compared to a car engine oil.

2) Chain lube: Use for the lubrication of chains. the lube gets in between the linkages and reduces friction, wear and tear.

3) Petrol: for combustion

4) 2T: Mix with petrol for 2 stroke engine and act as a form of engine lubrication. unless normal 4T engine oil, 2T oil get burns too with the petrol.

 

 

Can you use EO, or 2T for Chain Lubrication?

[funkymunky84]

Can you use EO, or 2T for Chain Lubrication?

 

Highly suggest that you don't, as the oil may fling and stick onto your tires.

Go Kelantan Lane (Lim Ah Boy) to buy your preferred Chain Lubricant.

Lube your chain fortnightly, one can should last you a few months ($10++ per can only).

[slayer2cool]

Can you use EO, or 2T for Chain Lubrication?

 

too viscous, wont penetrate the linkages properly and also the EO/2T will trap/stick dirt onto the chain like nobody's business also. you will just mess up the chain and your sprockets

[Hydher]

too viscous, wont penetrate the linkages properly and also the EO/2T will trap/stick dirt onto the chain like nobody's business also. you will just mess up the chain and your sprockets

 

Can you use EO, or 2T for Chain Lubrication?

 

Hi, i switched from chain wax to using eo so my comparison is of such.

 

Anyway, when its vicous, it penetrates well.

 

I was having stiff links so i cleaned my chain with diesel and i used new engine oil

 

Here is my review

 

Pros

Cleaner chain and sprockets

Smoother consistent sound

Quieter chain.

Smoother transition

Just wipe off to clean

No grime build up

 

Cons

Splatter on my rear rim

Have to be re applied after about 300km or 1 week, if not, chain will be dry

[ziyang123]

Hi, i switched from chain wax to using eo so my comparison is of such.

 

Anyway, when its vicous, it penetrates well.

 

I was having stiff links so i cleaned my chain with diesel and i used new engine oil

 

Here is my review

 

Pros

Cleaner chain and sprockets

Smoother consistent sound

Quieter chain.

Smoother transition

Just wipe off to clean

No grime build up

 

Cons

Splatter on my rear rim

Have to be re applied after about 300km or 1 week, if not, chain will be dry

 

 

Hi, it's true, I went to a bike shop to and they put some free lubricant on my chain... After riding, my back wheel all splattered with EO... I riding Wave with the chain covering also will splatter out.

 

Is it common for bike shops to put EO as free chain lubricant?

 

I also bought 1 can of chain lubricant for $10.... It's call "PZ1 High Performance" ... Is it consider cheap or rip-off?

[ezzyoiler]

they are bikers who vehelmently disagree that a particular low chain oiler which use 2t as the lubricant is able TO LUBE AND CLEAN CHAIN simultaneosly..

YES...2T IS A VERY GOOD CHAIN LUBE..AND IT WILL LUBE AS WELL AS CLEAN THE CHAINS..

 

every biker should need to know as far as chain maintenace is concerened..

maybe this article would clear up some common pre conceptions to chain maintenance..

 

interesting article..

intersting articleChain Maintenance...

 

 

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain/IMG_6209.jpg

Let's face it, without your chain, you ain't going anywhere. So why, then, do we ignore our chains for so long? Chains have gotten so good over the past 10 years that it is easy to forget about them. But an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Which in motorcycling, an ounce of prevention can also be worth a pound of skin.

There are really two main types of chains: O-Ring chains and Non-O-Ring chains. O-Ring chains have, as you would guess, small O-Rings built into them. The O-Rings are used to keep grease and lube inside your chain (between all the moving parts). Non-O-Ring chains do not. Back in the day when O-Ring chains came out, many people believed the O-Rings created high levels of drag. However, that is not the case. A well-maintained O-Ring (X-ring, Y-ring etc) chain provides less drag, requires less maintenance, and lasts a heck of a lot longer.

It is important to remember that the purpose of an O-Ring chain is to keep the lubrication inside. So based on that, there is little you can do to keep your chain in top condition, right? Sorry, but O-Ring chains require attention just like everything else on your bike. A true sign of a squid is a dry, squeaking, rusty chain.

A chain that is ignored will eventually fail, typically by breaking. A broken chain will many times ball-up around the countershaft and front sprocket. When this happens, your chain will rip and tear its way through your soft aluminum motor and will always result in engine damage (either from the chain flailing around or from the motor coming to an immediate stop) Sometimes a chain will get caught in the rear wheel, resulting in an immediate rear wheel skid. Rarely, somebody will get lucky and the chain will fly off the bike without making contact with anything while the rider coasts to a stop (this is rare). In either case, you will be stranded. More than likely, you will have some damage, be it be minor or major.

So now that we've established chain maintenance is probably a good idea, where should we start? Like all things mechanical, let's start with lubrication. You should lube your chain every 500 miles of riding. There are many types of lube available; everything from basic wax, foaming wax, conventional lube to foaming conventional lube. Different lubes will provide different levels of fling and protection.

Typically the more fling, the better protection and the less fling the less protection. The hard part is deciding what level of fling/protection you want to deal with. The less fling, the more frequently you'll have to lube. -----

this i s where the oiler is so superior..

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain-lube.jpg

When your chain is without lube, it will build up a lot of heat and result in the chain stretching. Without lube, your O-Ring will also be exposed to the harmful ozone and ultraviolet rays, causing them to dry out, crack, and even fall off.

It is important (with O-Ring chains) to always lube your chain immediately after riding, while the chain is warm. Remember how we talked about how O-Ring chains keep the lube inside the chain? Well, lubing your chain while still hot will cause the lube to be drawn into the chain as it cools. Also, remember that chain lube's primary job is to lube between the chain and the sprockets.

Also, you need to lube your chain in two locations. Spray the majority of the lube on the inside of the chain. This helps prevent fling and will force lube into the chain when you are riding. You also need to spray lube directly onto the O-Rings. The best way to do this is at the rear sprocket, spinning the wheel as you go. Avoid the temptation to prop the bike up on the track stand or center stand, start the bike, put it in first gear while the rear wheel is in the air, and spray as the motor moves the rear wheel. The number of fingers claimed by this exercise is astonishing and a quick search on the Internet will reveal images of people who have lost their fingers doing this (not just dummies, but experienced motorcycle mechanics). It is much better

and

safer to do it the hard way, with the motor off and the bike in neutral.

If you do this regularly, your chain will keep a high level of lubrication but will also draw a lot of dirt and you'll end up with a really dirty-looking chain. Dirt, as I'm sure you can imagine, is very bad for a chain. A good idea is, every 3000 miles or whenever you change your oil, to clean your chain. The easiest way to clean your chain is with a rag, a toothbrush, and kerosene.

Don't use harsh solvents, like gasoline, because they can ruin the O-Rings. Spray or wipe your chain with kerosene. The best part about using kerosene is that it will clean your chain amazingly quick, saving you lots of time. I usually use an old rag and soak it with kerosene and wipe it over the chain until the chain is clean. Incidentally, kerosene can be found at any department store, usually in the camping section. Its traditionally used to run camp-stoves, lanterns and stoves. But be prepared to spend $5.00 for a 10-year supply. After about 20 minutes you will have an immaculately clean chain and an amazingly filthy rag.

CAUTION:

Be sure you get "kerosene" - not camp fuel or white gas. Camp fuel and white gas comes in the same can as kerosene but it is extremely volatile and will ignite astonishingly easy. Be double and triple sure the can says "Kerosene". Don't trust the store clerk either, if it doesn't say kerosene it is most likely white fuel and that is very dangerous.

Its also a really great idea to remove the countershaft sprocket cover and clean all the excess lube build-up that is around the front sprocket. If you let this stuff build up it can cause problems that you probably do not want to ever deal with.

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http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain-adjust.jpg

Your chain also needs to be adjusted properly. Of course, your owner's manual will have exact requirements for your bike, but the rule of thumb is about 1 to 1.5 inches of slack. But what does that mean and why is that important? Slack is how much the chain will move up and down freely at a point halfway between the two sprockets.

You need slack because as your swingarm moves up to compress for a bump, the chain gets tighter. When a chain is too tight, it will bind on the sprockets, causing quicker wear of both chain and sprockets. A tight chain will also, over time, ruin your countershaft and your countershaft seal (the seal around the shaft that carries the front sprocket) and may even bend the countershaft. Also, a tight chain is more likely to develop tight spots. Tight spots are portions of the chain that stretch at different rates and cause binding between links. So, why not just run the chain really loose? Well, too loose and the chain runs the risk of flying off the sprockets. Bad news! Also, too loose causes a lot of slop in the driveline. Example: twist the throttle, short delay, then lurching as the chain snaps tight, then loose until you are under heavy acceleration. Chain adjustments are very important, even though it may not be something you need to do very often.

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain/IMG_6207.jpg

If your chain requires adjustment, your owner's manual will have the information you need to tighten/loosen it as there are many different types of adjustment. You will probably need to start by loosening the axle to allow the wheel to move. Then you can turn the adjuster screws, ¼ turn at a time, until you reach the proper adjustment. I like to turn the left one, and then turn the right one the same distance to maintain wheel alignment.

When you achieve proper slack, you need to make sure the wheel alignment is still correct. If the wheel is crooked in the swingarm, your chain and sprockets will wear really rapidly and you can even get into strange handling characteristics. There are two ways to measure alignment. You can grab a flexible tape measure (like what tailors use) and measure from the center of your axle to the center of the swingarm pivot. Or you can string your bike up. Stringing requires you to get a really long piece of string and wrap it around the front tire. Then pull the lengths of string back toward the rear wheel. You can then use your calibrated eyeball to compare the strings with the alignment of the wheels. If your wheel is out of alignment, it will be pretty obvious. I have had a lot of success using the tape measure method. I think it's quicker and more accurate.

After you are confident with your alignment, tighten everything up and check the slack again. Most bikes will to tighten chain slack when everything is snugged back down. So I have to set the chain really loose so when I torque everything down the chain is set properly.

But how do you know when your chain needs to be replaced? If you go to your rear sprocket and pull straight back on the chain, you'll be heading in the right direction. If your chain pulls away from the sprockets by much, it is probably stretched out. If the chain does not pull away and stays right on the sprocket, then the chain is not stretched out yet. Also, if your sprockets no longer look like points but a bunch of little hooks you need to replace it all.

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http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/images/chain-wear.jpg

While we are on the subject of chains, a very popular upgrade is to lower the gearing to make the bike quicker off the line at the cost of top speed. The quickest and easiest way to lower gearing is to buy a front sprocket with one less tooth. Simply replacing the front doesn't require a new chain and will cost about $14.00 to do. However, the disadvantages of doing this are pretty significant. First, if you are not replacing your chain at the same time, it will lengthen your wheelbase; that's not such a big deal. But the biggest problem with dropping a tooth in front is you put a lot more torque on your countershaft. Possibly resulting in a ruined seal or worse, a bent countershaft ($$$ expensive $$$). I know of more than one TLS/TLR out there that bent countershafts within 50 miles of dropping to a smaller front sprocket - so this is likely more of an issue with high-torque motors. So the likelihood of this happening depends on how dramatic the change is and the characteristics of the motor, but its good to be aware of this before making any decisions. We strongly feel that the best way to lower gearing is to add teeth to the rear sprocket. Depending on how dramatic of a change you want, you will probably need a new chain. Usually, you increase four teeth in the rear to equal dropping one tooth in the front (but that varies greatly depending on what your stock gearing is). By changing rear sprockets, you have more control. You can go up any number of teeth to get the result you want. I have typically only gone up one or two teeth in the rear to get the results I wanted. Plus, you are shortening your wheelbase. This is cool if you want to ride a track or a canyon.

Another common upgrade you hear about is a 520 conversion. A 520 is a smaller, lighter chain. The advantage of this upgrade is you will have less rotating mass, less inertia, and therefore an internal dyno like a Dynojet will report a horsepower increase. It's the same reason a lot of people put lighter wheels on their bikes. However, you will need to go with aluminum sprockets, because they don't make 520 steel sprockets, and you will use up chains and sprockets about 30% faster. Plus, because they are a lot lighter, high horsepower engines can snap a cheap or worn 520 chain easily. Another disadvantage is that a 520 chain and sprockets can be as much as 50% more money than a conventional setup. The true advantage of a 520 conversion is the sponsored racer who gets a new chain before every race. Even the most proficient street rider gets very little benefit from this and will never notice any difference.

But then there is replacement issues. Every new bike today comes with a link-less chain. Meaning there is no master link. Every link is riveted. While master link chains are still available, the best idea is to purchase a chain rivet tool (about $30 to $60) so that you can replace your chain with another linkless chain. I would not want to have a master link come apart on a 120hp engine at high speed. Yikes!

A common misconception with chain replacement is to change you chain and sprockets at the same time. This is only true if you use aluminum sprockets. If you use steel or factory sprockets, the rule of thumb is two chains to one set of sprockets. That is, of course, if you replace your chains before they are so bad they damage the steel sprockets. Unless you wish to change your gearing when your chain wears out, simply replace the chain. A good chain costs about $100, and a rear sprocket can run around $75 or more. Even if the second chain wears out a little bit faster than the first chain, you'll still end up saving a grundle of money without compromising safety. For a bit more information on how to replace a chain, visit CanyonChasers

chain replacement page

.

So, there you have it. The moral of the story is: lube often. A well-lubricated chain is quieter and has a lot less drag allowing the motor to spin the rear wheel without having to force its way past a worn or tight chain. And if you are lubing your chain every 500 miles, you will be very aware of its condition for when it will need an adjustment or a replacement.

[Hydher]

Hi, it's true, I went to a bike shop to and they put some free lubricant on my chain... After riding, my back wheel all splattered with EO... I riding Wave with the chain covering also will splatter out.

 

Is it common for bike shops to put EO as free chain lubricant?

 

I also bought 1 can of chain lubricant for $10.... It's call "PZ1 High Performance" ... Is it consider cheap or rip-off?

 

Hey, a better way is to leave it overnight so the oil gathers at the bottom of the chain. When you move off, it will splatter to the road instead of your rims. Same applies to all chain lubes.

 

Your chain lube is normal priced.

[ezzyoiler]

ride it immediately...if you dont want lube dripping all over the floor esp overnight..

best is to ride slowly..or use main/paddock stand and run rear wheeks ...so that a thorough distribution of lube is being done...

then ride as per normal.

the centrifugal forces will move the lube into the chain links, rollers eficiently...

 

the best is to install a chain oiler...scottoiler eg..that is if you can spare $215..alternatives low cost type available too.

[Isopropyl]

Can you use EO, or 2T for Chain Lubrication?

 

yes you can. most manual will suggest Engine or gear oil every 500km or after rain.

 

but if you want the best protection especially riding big bike, just use spray lube will be a better choice as no doubt it does the job better.

 

if you are riding small bike, just use EO and lube it regularly will do and don't sweat over it.

[Raptor]

It took engineers in the petrochemical industries years of research to develop the best lubricant for chains.

 

Am sure they spent that kind of money and time because engine oil was not doing a good job.

[ezzyoiler]

there is a chain in the engine in our bike.. timing chains..they are always lubed with engine oils..

bike manufacturers some may not have any reccommendation for chain lube..

there is no chain lube standards unlike the engine lube..SAE STD,

the engine oils have beed a defacto lube for chains..

even the workshop will lubed your chain with it...but they are doing a big con job on us. they apply used eo not new eo..so the lube effect does not last, and you end up with a earlier chain failures compared to oiling it with new lube,,

 

engine oils do a great job provided you follow a regime of cleaning and lubbing your chains on a regular basis.. the same goes to expensive commercial lube..

most lube it but forget to clean chains first..thus some chains seem to last forever but some need to chains at as low as 15000km..

[Isopropyl]

i have no doubt proper chain lube is better then EO as chain lube. but there is a point where the not so good is good enough for the intended purpose.

 

i have a friend who own a 13years old super 4. he take care of his bike well enough but does not believe in over doing things. he those rider that ride until his tires start develop "ba loo gu" before chainging or only using plain tap water as coolant. try telling him it will cause corrosion and he will tell you his last radiator took ten years to leak and he intend to change radiator in another 8years:sian:

 

he use cheapo mineral EO and change every 10,000-12,000km. the used oil is use as chain lube. as his bike does not have a main-stand, he apply used EO on one part of chain every time before leaving house.

 

well, the chain have been serving him for the last 2-3years and still have life in it. in case someone ask, he travel to and from JB daily to work which work up to 90-100km per day depending whether taking 1st or 2nd link. oh, he is using normal heavy duty chain.

 

not good enough? i doubt so.

[crazydj]

i have no doubt proper chain lube is better then EO as chain lube. but there is a point where the not so good is good enough for the intended purpose.

 

i have a friend who own a 13years old super 4. he take care of his bike well enough but does not believe in over doing things. he those rider that ride until his tires start develop "ba loo gu" before chainging or only using plain tap water as coolant. try telling him it will cause corrosion and he will tell you his last radiator took ten years to leak and he intend to change radiator in another 8years:sian:

 

he use cheapo mineral EO and change every 10,000-12,000km. the used oil is use as chain lube. as his bike does not have a main-stand, he apply used EO on one part of chain every time before leaving house.

 

well, the chain have been serving him for the last 2-3years and still have life in it. in case someone ask, he travel to and from JB daily to work which work up to 90-100km per day depending whether taking 1st or 2nd link. oh, he is using normal heavy duty chain.

 

not good enough? i doubt so.

 

I like his mindset. Before i got my bike, my bike pro friends in NS, regulars and NS boys, most say this. YBR don't really need to take care one. As long got oil inside, you see tire worn, do all the necessary stuff, can already. Bike will last. I did this for about a year or so. Then when i ORDed, i mixed around with another group of riders who said i never take care of my bike and all that nonsense. I listened to them ah. Do this extra, do that extra, and then more problems start to come. Then i realised why ah. Its because i listen to them. They acccuse me of being cheapskate but the thing is that they never own YBR before.

 

In the end, i gave up and went back to my old ways. I Lube chain once a month, never wash bike for months, just do the necessary and i never tighten my chain i think 8 months already. Change EO every 2 months or just check the oil level and the consistency. Of course wear and tear replace ah. Sianz.

[Isopropyl]

I like his mindset. Before i got my bike, my bike pro friends in NS, regulars and NS boys, most say this. YBR don't really need to take care one. As long got oil inside, you see tire worn, do all the necessary stuff, can already. Bike will last. I did this for about a year or so. Then when i ORDed, i mixed around with another group of riders who said i never take care of my bike and all that nonsense. I listened to them ah. Do this extra, do that extra, and then more problems start to come. Then i realised why ah. Its because i listen to them. They acccuse me of being cheapskate but the thing is that they never own YBR before.

 

In the end, i gave up and went back to my old ways. I Lube chain once a month, never wash bike for months, just do the necessary and i never tighten my chain i think 8 months already. Change EO every 2 months or just check the oil level and the consistency. Of course wear and tear replace ah. Sianz.

 

i agree. in a bike forums, the advice usually is to keep the bike in it prime condition as much as possible therefore the advice given is usually over kill just to ensure our bike get the best treatment possible. while the guy on the road just want to keep things going.

 

the truth is, most two wheeler can take pretty much abuse. in my work place i have the chance to speak with a lot of rider going in and out of spore daily. considering the care or lack of for their bikes which alot of the members here will give "death threat" if you ever mention you are doing that. yet the bike just keep going for years.

 

of course, that is not something we should be doing. proper care will increase road safety.

[ziyang123]

Thankyou guys, i have seen quite diff. replies. some say need take good care while others think it's a overkill. Is it because if you "choing" a lot then to take very good care? crazydj and Isopropyl, do you all choing a lot?

[Isopropyl]

Thankyou guys, i have seen quite diff. replies. some say need take good care while others think it's a overkill. Is it because if you "choing" a lot then to take very good care? crazydj and Isopropyl, do you all choing a lot?

 

firstly, it is because you are asking for advice in a bike forums. most people here can be consider enthusiasm rider therefore you tend to get advice that is mean to keep the bike in tip top condition.

 

"choing" mean redline your bike? i don't. i run average of 100km/h on my kupkia speedometer which should 90km/h in true speed. daily average 50km. yes, i ride like an uncle. haha...

 

seriously, different bike demand different treatment.

[crazydj]

Double post. Let's get on with life.

[crazydj]

firstly, it is because you are asking for advice in a bike forums. most people here can be consider enthusiasm rider therefore you tend to get advice that is mean to keep the bike in tip top condition.

 

"choing" mean redline your bike? i don't. i run average of 100km/h on my kupkia speedometer which should 90km/h in true speed. daily average 50km. yes, i ride like an uncle. haha...

 

seriously, different bike demand different treatment.

 

Agreed. Then again, it really depends on the bike you are riding. Its like women. I like my women to be like me. Not fussy, anything goes, chin chye la. But the essentials like love, sex, money and family, the basis of a home, should still be kept important.

 

Like the basics in bike. Check oil, change tires, or whatever needs to be changed. You don't need this chain oiler la, LED tail light ah, overhaul la, etc. Its like love. You want to overhaul for what? Nothing wrong you better not overhaul. Same as bike. Nothing wrong, you better not itchy hand and bloody touch it. KNN filled with regret.

 

Anyway, i don't really ride my bike much la. One month perhaps 1k? More or less. Just take care of the essentials enough.

[ezzyoiler]

gadgets..some saves time saves money...use less resources...

 

if i may quote...do you need a particular gadget?

eg..time saving, money saving , use less resources..etc

if i may quote this famous saying..

 

if money is more important than time..etc...or

time..etc is more important than money..

your answer will be different..

[ezzyoiler]

time and money not important...than what?

whats your take?

[Isopropyl]

if you need to put in time to ensure one gadget work to take care of another gadget then it back to square one...

[ezzyoiler]

if you need to put in time to ensure one gadget work to take care of another gadget then it back to square one...

 

yes...a utopian solution...everything works 101%%....that would be great...

 

you are ridng a bike i suppose...for whatever reasons you may have...

yes you still need to spend time and money to keep your bike in good conditions to meet your objectives...

 

if the gadget you have gives you more problem than benefits...then that is a lousy gadget ..and should be discarded...cheers...