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Posted
Those willing to haul back a big jug of EO, Delvac MX is available in m'sia ESSO for RM84 (5L). works out about $6-7 per litre. darn cheap! anybody have experience wif the customs bringing back this kind of amount? any law restricting this?

 

no problems with hauling EO in big containers back as its for personal usage.

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Posted
Those willing to haul back a big jug of EO, Delvac MX is available in m'sia ESSO for RM84 (5L). works out about $6-7 per litre. darn cheap! anybody have experience wif the customs bringing back this kind of amount? any law restricting this?

 

done before:shades:

Posted

@Isopropyl

 

Hey bro, need your advise.

 

I opened schnell today and the oil looked like teh O colour. 5w40 fully syn.

My previous castrol activ 20w40 was in a nice shade of gold and when you shake it, can tell it was much thicker.

 

Why ah?

 

Also, heard around that ahboy 2t is fake leh. Scared his 4t is too!! Aiyoo!!! headache.

 

Think I will only use cheap oils on the kup.

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

Posted
@Isopropyl

 

Hey bro, need your advise.

 

I opened schnell today and the oil looked like teh O colour. 5w40 fully syn.

My previous castrol activ 20w40 was in a nice shade of gold and when you shake it, can tell it was much thicker.

 

Why ah?

 

Also, heard around that ahboy 2t is fake leh. Scared his 4t is too!! Aiyoo!!! headache.

 

Think I will only use cheap oils on the kup.

 

oil colour is never a good indicator of quality for modern engine oil.

 

highly refined base oil is actually clear like water. some metal based additives might darken the oil but it is the dye added that give the oil it amber or golden colour. different companies choose different colour scheme like green for schaeffer, purple for royal purple, red for redline etc. so i suggest don't get too worry based on the colour of the oil.

 

a 20W rated oil will feel thicker then a 5W rated oil in room temperature. 5W rated oil will have a much higher viscosity index therefore it will "thicken" lesser when the temperature dropped. as per whether it allow a person to actually "butt dyno" the different i am not too sure but i guess it is possible.

 

i will not be too worry about getting fake oil from supermarket. should be fine. don't worry. as for Ah Boy selling fake oil, i really have no idea but nothing is impossible. if you are not comfortable with them, just buy from other sources. personally, i think they are in the business for so long and i sure there are customers that is a long term user of their oil. if the oil they are selling is fake, there is a chance we will hear something about engine damage? so i guess it should be fine.

 

that my 2 cents.

Posted
oil colour is never a good indicator of quality for modern engine oil.

 

highly refined base oil is actually clear like water. some metal based additives might darken the oil but it is the dye added that give the oil it amber or golden colour. different companies choose different colour scheme like green for schaeffer, purple for royal purple, red for redline etc. so i suggest don't get too worry based on the colour of the oil.

 

a 20W rated oil will feel thicker then a 5W rated oil in room temperature. 5W rated oil will have a much higher viscosity index therefore it will "thicken" lesser when the temperature dropped. as per whether it allow a person to actually "butt dyno" the different i am not too sure but i guess it is possible.

 

i will not be too worry about getting fake oil from supermarket. should be fine. don't worry. as for Ah Boy selling fake oil, i really have no idea but nothing is impossible. if you are not comfortable with them, just buy from other sources. personally, i think they are in the business for so long and i sure there are customers that is a long term user of their oil. if the oil they are selling is fake, there is a chance we will hear something about engine damage? so i guess it should be fine.

 

that my 2 cents.

 

Thank isopropyl for the explanation! :)

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

Posted (edited)
Do all energy conserving oils have the starburst symbol?

 

No. it doesn't. but it doesn't matter anyway as i assume you are looking for 40wt oil. no 40wt oil will be rated resource conserving.

 

Edited:

 

maybe i should go a little more. there is nothing magical about "resource conserving" rating.

 

to take the mystery out of "resource conserving" rating, it just an oil going through a series of tests and show that this oil allow the test engine to save some fuel over a default base oil. having proven that, it earn the "resource conserving" rating.

 

that really about it. all oil is gearing toward passing this test like the newest SN / GF-5 rating. all future oil design will be gearing towards conserving resources and reducing pollution.

 

that is what i read about the up and coming CK-4 rating too. i just hope it doesn't do it in the expense of engine protection. of course just like when CJ-4 is introduce, the fear turn out to be baseless.

 

one thing that might be true is future oil tend to be more expensive as it reduce the use of good/cheaper traditional anti-wear and hence better base oil and more expensive substitute anti-wear / friction modifier is needed which naturally push up the cost.

Edited by Isopropyl
Posted
No. it doesn't. but it doesn't matter anyway as i assume you are looking for 40wt oil. no 40wt oil will be rated resource conserving.

 

Edited:

 

maybe i should go a little more. there is nothing magical about "resource conserving" rating.

 

to take the mystery out of "resource conserving" rating, it just an oil going through a series of tests and show that this oil allow the test engine to save some fuel over a default base oil. having proven that, it earn the "resource conserving" rating.

 

that really about it. all oil is gearing toward passing this test like the newest SN / GF-5 rating. all future oil design will be gearing towards conserving resources and reducing pollution.

 

that is what i read about the up and coming CK-4 rating too. i just hope it doesn't do it in the expense of engine protection. of course just like when CJ-4 is introduce, the fear turn out to be baseless.

 

one thing that might be true is future oil tend to be more expensive as it reduce the use of good/cheaper traditional anti-wear and hence better base oil and more expensive substitute anti-wear / friction modifier is needed which naturally push up the cost.

 

Ah thanks for the useful information! That means we can go ahead and use whatever 40wt oil in the market? How to see the spec that is compatible with our engines?

Posted
Ah thanks for the useful information! That means we can go ahead and use whatever 40wt oil in the market? How to see the spec that is compatible with our engines?

 

i think most 40wt oil should be fine. clutch usually don't slip if the condition is good even if the oil is loaded with friction modifier. for bike, i will be more worry about viscosity break down more then anything else.

 

check that it meet your bike's manual specification eg: SF, SG etc.

check that the recommended weight is correct eg: 40wt, 50wt etc.

if you ask me, i will choose a oil with a smaller viscosity spare eg: 15w40 over 5w40.

a dual spec oil mean for both petrol and diesel engine will be great!!!

Posted
What do you think of Schnell ultimate 2 then? Any alternative oil to recommend? Maybe even across causeway?

 

schenell is a 5w40 oil. not to my liking as mention due to the viscosity spread.

 

across the causeway? why? of course:cheeky:

 

you can get either the Delvac MX 5 litres for about RM84 or Delo 400 for RM 95. if you are in the mood, you can even ask for some Rimula R3X for RM70 plus? Diesel Engine oil is the most tested oil on the planet. million of miles logged on them for the tribologist to fine tune the oil to excellent.

 

all are cool for your YBR if i remember correctly? you can run these oil for at least 2,000km. educated guess telling me they can go much further but i just change it sooner since it not expensive.

Posted

I chanced upon this: If a motor oil passes the cold temperature or W (winter grade) specification for a SAE 15W and at 210° F (100° C) flows through the viscometer like a SAE 40 motor oil, then the label will read 15W-40. Getting the picture? Consequently, if the motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil on the reduced temperature scale and flows like a SAE 20 at 210° F (100° C), then this motor oil's label will read 5W-20. And so forth and so on!

I can't tell you how many times I have heard someone, usually an auto mechanic, say that they wouldn't use a 5W-30 motor oil because it is, "Too thin." Then they may use a 10W-30 or SAE 30 motor oil. At engine operating temperatures these oils are the same. The only time the 5W-30 oil is "thin" is at cold start up conditions where you need it to be "thin."

 

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

 

What do you mean by viscosity spread?

 

I've yet to try Delo 400.. Tried both delvac and rimula. Is it any better?

Posted
I chanced upon this: If a motor oil passes the cold temperature or W (winter grade) specification for a SAE 15W and at 210° F (100° C) flows through the viscometer like a SAE 40 motor oil, then the label will read 15W-40. Getting the picture? Consequently, if the motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil on the reduced temperature scale and flows like a SAE 20 at 210° F (100° C), then this motor oil's label will read 5W-20. And so forth and so on!

I can't tell you how many times I have heard someone, usually an auto mechanic, say that they wouldn't use a 5W-30 motor oil because it is, "Too thin." Then they may use a 10W-30 or SAE 30 motor oil. At engine operating temperatures these oils are the same. The only time the 5W-30 oil is "thin" is at cold start up conditions where you need it to be "thin."

 

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

 

What do you mean by viscosity spread?

 

I've yet to try Delo 400.. Tried both delvac and rimula. Is it any better?

 

what i mean is the different between the 2 numbers. 5W40, the spread is 35. 15W40 and the spread is 25. in most situation except for some high-end engine oil like motul and redline which use expensive base oil, in order to have a wide viscosity spread like 5W40, it required plently of polymer or viscosity index improver (VII) added to the oil.

 

too much VII is not a good thing in a share sump like motorcycle as the polymer shear quickly in the transmission gears causing the oil to drop it viscosity rapidly. hydrodynamic is the main state of lubrication, therefore losing too much viscosity might cause metal to metal contact in your engine which is bad.

 

viscosity only tell part of the story. more important is the oil high temperature high shear (HTHS). the minimum HTHS requirement of 40wt oil that have rating like 5w40 and 10w40 is 2.9cp which is the same as a 30wt oil. any oil rated 15w40 required minimum of 3.5cp and most decent diesel engine oil at least have 4.0cp and above.

 

HTHS is the measurement of oil film strength at a temperature of 150C under high shearing condition. in the test, oil at 150C is pumped through a nozzle to provide shearing condition.

 

i think your engine will not be able to know the different between delo, delvac or rimula. not sure about the butt. haha...

Posted

My butt know! Delvac is definately better than Rimula..

 

Wait till I finish my new 4L Schnell... I just bought last week! I didnt know the spread between the 2 numbers holds so much information. Thanks for the clear explanation. So Should I add Some STP oil treatment to improve the Viscosity when I feel it getting thinner?

Posted
My butt know! Delvac is definately better than Rimula..

 

Wait till I finish my new 4L Schnell... I just bought last week! I didnt know the spread between the 2 numbers holds so much information. Thanks for the clear explanation. So Should I add Some STP oil treatment to improve the Viscosity when I feel it getting thinner?

 

you can. the question is how long you intend to hold the oil if you add STP stuff? you can safely run a plain HDEO to 3,000km and just change it out. i don't see any problem there.

 

if you really interested to thicker the oil, try Schaeffer moly EP oil. it much better. STP stuff is nothing more then a VII and a small amount of ZDDP.

Posted (edited)

today went to bedok to meet a friend. saw this in a carpark.

 

Edited: accidentally posted the pictures with number. can't seem to edit it. already contacted admin to assist in removal.

20130113_161607.jpg

20130113_162101.jpg

20130113_161956.jpg

Edited by Kev's
Posted
Lol. What a spread. Where in bedok is that!

 

haha... you going to take a look? :cheeky:

 

when i saw the "uncle lube" 2T oil i immediately search near the chain area. just as i expected... ezyoiler!!! wahahaha...

 

also notice the big chain near the side stand area:sian:

Posted
haha... you going to take a look? :cheeky:

 

when i saw the "uncle lube" 2T oil i immediately search near the chain area. just as i expected... ezyoiler!!! wahahaha...

 

also notice the big chain near the side stand area:sian:

 

haha ya. must see for myself all the oil that the person has

Posted
I dont get it? All that oil just left there? For everyone to use is it? So good ah.

 

Btw that chain for wat sia?

 

It mostly empty bottle. The two big one is full and i suspect it used oil.

 

The chain is for security purpose. Haha...

Posted (edited)

Cool just found Amsoil in singapore.

Membership $30 4 2 years + free additive.

$19.50 per bottle from $30+.

Spend above $150 and get free delivery(fri only) :)

Free 24hr towing services.

Edited by Hydher

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

Posted
Cool just found Amsoil in singapore.

Membership $30 4 2 years + free additive.

$19.50 per bottle from $30+.

Spend above $150 and get free delivery(fri only) :)

Free 24hr towing services.

 

you finished your schaffer 20w50?

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