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Posted
If ur bike watercooled, best to use light oils (40wt) to reduce drag and since temp is maintained, no worries abt overheating or oil breaking down.

 

If air cooled, use thick (50wt) oils to reduce the chance of the oil breaking down until like water.

Thanks for the tip :)

Road hogger @ 50km/h on 4th lane :cool:

A bike can go up till 200km/h, can the rider go up till 200km/h o_O

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Posted
Used schnell on my kub.

after eo change damn thin like water hahahaha jialat sia

but engine was warm from a 2km ride.

 

I personally like 5-10w40 oils on my past few rides.

 

Seems like over usage

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg228/mercenary_017/BusaKenji.jpg
Posted
w60.......

 

Not necessary to go so high hor.. s4 is water cooled. clearance is alot tighter than air cooled bikes. Also if u run 60wt on short trips, u will risk blocking up ur oil pump passageways. (heart attack) Also running 60wt oil, cannot rev high as oil cant be pumped around as free as 40wt.

 

I'd say go for a good 15w40 like schaeffer.

Posted
Used schnell on my kub.

after eo change damn thin like water hahahaha jialat sia

but engine was warm from a 2km ride.

 

I personally like 5-10w40 oils on my past few rides.

 

If u like to use schnell, please dont go above 1k for oil change. 5w40 is too big a viscosity spead for high speed high temp operations. Small cc bikes actually need the most protection as they are often running at high rpm with comparatively heavy load.

 

Go back to 10w40 or if u can, 15w40 will be better if u stretch it to 2k OCI.

Posted (edited)
If u like to use schnell, please dont go above 1k for oil change. 5w40 is too big a viscosity spead for high speed high temp operations. Small cc bikes actually need the most protection as they are often running at high rpm with comparatively heavy load.

 

Go back to 10w40 or if u can, 15w40 will be better if u stretch it to 2k OCI.

 

Sorry but I think there's a misconception here.

 

The 5W or 10W actually represents the viscosity in Winter (i.e. 5W is thinner than 10W in Winter) and is not really important in tropical countries.

 

We should actually be more concerned about the latter figure whether it is 40 or 50. The figure usually represents that the oil falls below certain limits at 100 degree Celsius. Thus at this temp, oil of a 40 is thinner than that of the 50.

 

How long the oil can last usually depends on the type such as fully synthetic or dino (mineral) oil. Different manufacturers give different oil change intervals with some at 3,000km while others at 10,000km. It is also good to refer back to your operator's manual and if in doubt, stick to whichever is lower.

 

One more thing to highlight is that engine oil suitable for cars are unsuitable for bikes, especially if you are on wet clutch. Special additives are added to the Motorcycle engine oil which are specially blended for that purpose. For motorcycles using dry clutch, I would suppose it doesn't matter as much.

Edited by Lmodel
Posted
Sorry but I think there's a misconception here.

 

The 5W or 10W actually represents the viscosity in Winter (i.e. 5W is thinner than 10W in Winter) and is not really important in tropical countries.

 

We should actually be more concerned about the latter figure whether it is 40 or 50. The figure usually represents that the oil falls below certain limits at 100 degree Celsius. Thus at this temp, oil of a 40 is thinner than that of the 50.

 

How long the oil can last usually depends on the type such as fully synthetic or dino (mineral) oil. Different manufacturers give different oil change intervals with some at 3,000km while others at 10,000km. It is also good to refer back to your operator's manual and if in doubt, stick to whichever is lower.

 

One more thing to highlight is that engine oil suitable for cars are unsuitable for bikes, especially if you are on wet clutch. Special additives are added to the Motorcycle engine oil which are specially blended for that purpose. For motorcycles using dry clutch, I would suppose it doesn't matter as much.

 

Sorry, But Oil changer is right. Your lack of understanding was posted by me before and it was answered by isopropyl before. Here it is.

 

what i mean is the different between the 2 numbers. 5W40, the spread is 35. 15W40 and the spread is 25. in most situation except for some high-end engine oil like motul and redline which use expensive base oil, in order to have a wide viscosity spread like 5W40, it required plently of polymer or viscosity index improver (VII) added to the oil.

 

too much VII is not a good thing in a share sump like motorcycle as the polymer shear quickly in the transmission gears causing the oil to drop it viscosity rapidly. hydrodynamic is the main state of lubrication, therefore losing too much viscosity might cause metal to metal contact in your engine which is bad.

 

viscosity only tell part of the story. more important is the oil high temperature high shear (HTHS). the minimum HTHS requirement of 40wt oil that have rating like 5w40 and 10w40 is 2.9cp which is the same as a 30wt oil. any oil rated 15w40 required minimum of 3.5cp and most decent diesel engine oil at least have 4.0cp and above.

 

HTHS is the measurement of oil film strength at a temperature of 150C under high shearing condition. in the test, oil at 150C is pumped through a nozzle to provide shearing condition.

 

i think your engine will not be able to know the different between delo, delvac or rimula. not sure about the butt. haha...

Posted
Not necessary to go so high hor.. s4 is water cooled. clearance is alot tighter than air cooled bikes. Also if u run 60wt on short trips, u will risk blocking up ur oil pump passageways. (heart attack) Also running 60wt oil, cannot rev high as oil cant be pumped around as free as 40wt.

 

I'd say go for a good 15w40 like schaeffer.

 

Yes agreed.But my recommendation is base on his bike mileage.

High viscostiy not necessarily will be thick. Depend on manufacturer.

W60 oil such as Liquid moly for example can last longer, tested by many local riders from their feedbacks.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg228/mercenary_017/BusaKenji.jpg
Posted

If the bike is not burning oil, i would suggest u stick to 40wt as long as can. Once start to burn oil, then can move up to 50wt. 60wt might be too much. The oil pump and passageways are designed for 40wt. Esp wen just start engine, 60wt oil might be too thick and cause oil starvation. Might nt much damage short term, but u nv knw.

 

Might work for some but rmb not all bikes are the same. :)

A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

:thumb:

 

2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i

 

Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim

 

 

SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

Posted (edited)
Yes agreed.But my recommendation is base on his bike mileage.

High viscostiy not necessarily will be thick. Depend on manufacturer.

W60 oil such as Liquid moly for example can last longer, tested by many local riders from their feedbacks.

 

Viscosity does mean thicknesss la. How can it differ by manufacturer... 50 grade oil means that specific viscosity/thickness at operating temperature. only difference is the number infront like 10w40,15w40,5w40. Its the diffference in thickness when at cold startup. smaller then number the less thicker.

 

A 10W-30 multi-grade mineral based oil is made from a 10 grade oil and has VI improvers added to thicken the product in a 212°F engine. It acts as a 30 grade oil when hot. It acts more as a 10 grade oil at startup. I remind you that a 10, 5 or 2 grade oil is still too thick to provide lubrication at startup. They are all too thick at startup. There is currently no engine oil thin enough to operate correctly at startup. They all cause excessive wear at startup.

 

However if ppl say liquid moly fully syn 10w60 is good, I suggest to give it a try. Since cold starts are not that bad, Just worried about the viscosity at operating temperature. Let us know the results if you do try. Its just really expensive I guess.

Edited by Limhg
Posted
Viscosity does mean thicknesss la. How can it differ by manufacturer... 50 grade oil means that specific viscosity/thickness at operating temperature. only difference is the number infront like 10w40,15w40,5w40. Its the diffference in thickness when at cold startup. smaller then number the less thicker.

 

A 10W-30 multi-grade mineral based oil is made from a 10 grade oil and has VI improvers added to thicken the product in a 212°F engine. It acts as a 30 grade oil when hot. It acts more as a 10 grade oil at startup. I remind you that a 10, 5 or 2 grade oil is still too thick to provide lubrication at startup. They are all too thick at startup. There is currently no engine oil thin enough to operate correctly at startup. They all cause excessive wear at startup.

 

However if ppl say liquid moly fully syn 10w60 is good, I suggest to give it a try. Since cold starts are not that bad, Just worried about the viscosity at operating temperature. Let us know the results if you do try. Its just really expensive I guess.

 

oops correction i meant the engine oil itself. My buddy did a shake and feel test on a few brands of engine oils and different viscosity. Thanks for sharing, good reviews from me and my friends for liquid moly 60w.

Yes true indeed it's much more pricey, but not many fully syn engine oils are 60W though.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg228/mercenary_017/BusaKenji.jpg
Posted
oops correction i meant the engine oil itself. My buddy did a shake and feel test on a few brands of engine oils and different viscosity. Thanks for sharing, good reviews from me and my friends for liquid moly 60w.

Yes true indeed it's much more pricey, but not many fully syn engine oils are 60W though.

 

Good! Share with us here how liquid moly 10w60 feels? How much does it costs? Any problems like feeling sluggish during acceleration? When i run 20w50 I already feel its not doing its job properly at high RPMs. Engine feels overloaded when gunning the throttle. Its silent when its RPM is low, but under load the engine makes ticking noises. Maybe its the bearings not getting lube fast enough?

 

If u ride big bike, and run fast. U cant hear the engine noises that well right?

Posted
Good! Share with us here how liquid moly 10w60 feels? How much does it costs? Any problems like feeling sluggish during acceleration? When i run 20w50 I already feel its not doing its job properly at high RPMs. Engine feels overloaded when gunning the throttle. Its silent when its RPM is low, but under load the engine makes ticking noises. Maybe its the bearings not getting lube fast enough?

 

If u ride big bike, and run fast. U cant hear the engine noises that well right?

 

It feels smooth.The price currently i am not sure, been a while since i last used it.

Currently using redline. He is one of our advertisers here in SBF.

Search under equipment extreme, he have packages too.

 

When i uses thicker oil, i dont hear the ticking noises.

Yes due to wind turbulence and etc.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg228/mercenary_017/BusaKenji.jpg
Posted
Yes.. Can share the price for Liquid moly 10w60? And where u get them? Thx!!
He is the sole distributor, his shop Equipment Extreme is at depot rd opposite CMPB.

Many other motorcycle shops take from him too.You should give him a call for more details.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg228/mercenary_017/BusaKenji.jpg
Posted
He is the sole distributor, his shop Equipment Extreme is at depot rd opposite CMPB.

Many other motorcycle shops take from him too.You should give him a call for more details.

 

Noted wif thx!!

Posted
oops correction i meant the engine oil itself. My buddy did a shake and feel test on a few brands of engine oils and different viscosity. Thanks for sharing, good reviews from me and my friends for liquid moly 60w.

Yes true indeed it's much more pricey, but not many fully syn engine oils are 60W though.

 

There are actually a few 10W60 engine oil in the market eg Maxima, Agip, Motorex and liquid moly.

In fact, what engine oil to use on your bike is a very personal thing. Some people like this brand of EO and some don't like it. You have to try it yourself . I used Motorex 10W60 on my Yamaha FZ1 and I love it. But when I used motorex 10W60 on my Suzuki Bandit1250, the engine feel sluggish and throttle response is heavy.

I had try many various type of engine oils and these are my two cents of views of the pros and cons of each weight of EO.

 

10W40 is good for local city riding.

Pro-quick throttle response, faster pickup, engine more responsive.

Con- oil breakdown faster and u can feel engine is rough after about 4k km. Not suitable for long trip use too as it breakdown too fast.

 

10W50,15W50,20W50- is good for long distance use

Pro - less noise from the engine, EO can last longer eg more than 5k km.

Con- engine response is slower, pickup is also slower.

 

10W60 - good for rough engine with a lot of vibrations.

Pros and Cons are similar to W50 EO.

 

These are my own personal experiences and butt feel.

Posted
There are actually a few 10W60 engine oil in the market eg Maxima, Agip, Motorex and liquid moly.

In fact, what engine oil to use on your bike is a very personal thing. Some people like this brand of EO and some don't like it. You have to try it yourself . I used Motorex 10W60 on my Yamaha FZ1 and I love it. But when I used motorex 10W60 on my Suzuki Bandit1250, the engine feel sluggish and throttle response is heavy.

I had try many various type of engine oils and these are my two cents of views of the pros and cons of each weight of EO.

 

10W40 is good for local city riding.

Pro-quick throttle response, faster pickup, engine more responsive.

Con- oil breakdown faster and u can feel engine is rough after about 4k km. Not suitable for long trip use too as it breakdown too fast.

 

10W50,15W50,20W50- is good for long distance use

Pro - less noise from the engine, EO can last longer eg more than 5k km.

Con- engine response is slower, pickup is also slower.

 

10W60 - good for rough engine with a lot of vibrations.

Pros and Cons are similar to W50 EO.

 

These are my own personal experiences and butt feel.

 

You must compare an apple to an apple to be fair for reviews, because air cooled bikes and coolant bikes works differently for cooling systems.

Your sharing of viscosity of oils, i do agree to a certain extend.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg228/mercenary_017/BusaKenji.jpg
Posted
You must compare an apple to an apple to be fair for reviews, because air cooled bikes and coolant bikes works differently for cooling systems.

Your sharing of viscosity of oils, i do agree to a certain extend.

 

Apple to apple mah... bandit 1250 and fz1 are both liquid cooled.

Posted
Apple to apple mah... bandit 1250 and fz1 are both liquid cooled.

 

To be more specific, the make, model and CC.

No new lobangs?

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