[Group] YAMAHA Fazer

[E.V.ilyn]

Originally posted by sunnyday@Apr 30 2005, 04:26 PM

u called the woodlands guy oredi?

call liao. but size no stock. next wk loh.

[sunnyday]

Originally posted by EmptyVessel@Apr 30 2005, 04:32 PM

call liao. but size no stock. next wk loh.

http://www.onemotoring.com.sg/publish/onem...amera/tuas.html

[GT Fazer]

Originally posted by sunnyday@Apr 30 2005, 04:22 PM

still got fazer 125 here..haha

later goin in to makan

Wah. So 'on' ah. Going in alone?

[GT Fazer]

Originally posted by EmptyVessel@Apr 30 2005, 04:25 PM

1800 GP Esso go wash bike + makan. Interested?

Very gian but sorry, cant. Just washed bike like 3 days ago. Anyway, how much to wash bike there? How or what they use to wash? Makan seafood?

[GT Fazer]

I pump shell. in Singapore. Shell in JB got bike wash service as well?

[sunnyday]

Originally posted by GT Fazer@Apr 30 2005, 04:42 PM

Wah. So 'on' ah. Going in alone?

few frens la

empty vessel oso joining

meeting 8pm at GP petronas

[E.V.ilyn]

Originally posted by sunnyday@Apr 30 2005, 05:04 PM

few frens la

empty vessel oso joining

meeting 8pm at GP petronas

i'm going to do some other things first. if you don't see me by that time go off without me.

[sfowner]

Originally posted by Ah_Pek@Apr 29 2005, 08:56 PM

- suspension,

- brakes (as someone mentioned), but seems ok to me,

- mid-range (a let down, but this bike needs to be revved to make it fun),

- sound not fierce enough.

- a little tall (for short people like me).

- (you can see I'm just being very petty... actually very few faults with this bike).>

 

hi sf owner,

regarding the fault above, can u elaborate more..

- suspension too hard...too soft....any ways to rectify...

but i thought u say over humps ok...so wat wrong with suspension

- wat abt the brakes..

-mid-range is 2-3 gear huh...need to really trottle in order to got it running???

 

hope to know more...coz thinking wan to get FZ6 anot.=)

R the faults above same for FZ1 as well..

 

is Fz1 going to b a better choice??

The bike is tall so going over humps won't hit the bottom, like my old specII. suspension can be improved, cause riding fast and hitting bumps can feel the bike rattle... but can live with it.

Brakes, I find ok... but i'm not the cheong type, so not so demanding on that.

I think all yamaha bikes loved to be revved to perform, so cannot expect the mid-range to behave like a V-twin. I've never tried a FZ1, so can't compare. But I hear many good reviews about the big Fazer. It was my original intention to get the FZ1, but felt it was too tall for me after sitting on one, and I think about 20 kilos heavier too. So settled for FZ6... no regrets... it's a good bike. Not saying that just because I'm thinking of selling but I always dreamed of riding a big bike. Have fun if u get one... I think it's an ideal bike for M'sia, FZ1 or FZ6.

[sfowner]

Originally posted by katana777@Apr 30 2005, 12:42 AM

think the next 06model will come out early next yr

best is EFI model with undertail exhaust like the 04R1

I thought the 06 model out on some websites already... EFI and undertail exhaust, but doesn't look as nice as the current model.

[Fubar]

wow...looks like now i'm really the only fazer around left in singapore now..everyone else is in malaysia...hahaa...Gp la...KL la...whoa...sibe sian....at home on a sat nite..hahaha..going crazy

[zinc1]

this is Ernie i'm also in sg but going kulai soon.. hee hee

[zinc1]

use ows the best for my fz6

[Fubar]

Originally posted by zinc1@Apr 30 2005, 09:14 PM

this is Ernie i'm also in sg but going kulai soon.. hee hee

champion loh...who you going with?? hahaha..me sibe sianz

[kopvampp]

im still ard now but going to slp liao cos gotta wake up at 345am then KL here i come.

[ReZaF]

Introducing the all-new FZ1.

Derived from the R1, the FZ1 packs a huge amount of horsepower (more than 140) and torque into a chassis that handles like a SuperBike yet is comfortable enough to ride all day long.

 

The FZ1 is aimed squarely at the rider who likes Sportsbike performance but prefers more comfortable ergonomics. The FZ1 offers a more traditional upright seating position, yet sacrifices nothing in terms of engine and handling performance. The FZ1 is a real-world street motorcycle that has the performance to back up its road racing heritage.

 

R1-Based Engine

The new FZ1 has been fitted with an engine based on the R1. With redesigned cylinder head, the compact 998cc liquid-cooled beast is fed by four side-draft 37mm carbs (with Throttle Position Sensor) that shoot straight into the five-valve-per-cylinder inline four-cylinder engine. This produces outstanding horsepower along with a big, fat torque curve.

 

Handling the exhaust chores is a 4-into-1 system controlled by Yamaha's Exhaust Ultimate Powervalve (EXUP) that precisely matches the exhaust backpressure with engine RPM to create maximum power. A large SuperBike-style stainless steel muffler provides a mellow yet throaty tone, and it's tucked in to provide good ground clearance.

 

A new, more compact radiator (than the R1) is utilized on the new FZ1, although it will use the same diameter fan as the R1. Coolant lines from the radiator to the carburettors have been added so performance is not affected by weather conditions, providing consistent and predictable throttle response. A steel mesh cover protects the front of the radiator from road debris.

 

Inside the engine of the FZ1 is a new cylinder head designed to work with the new horizontally mounted carburettors. A new crankshaft, 10% heavier than the R1, increases inertial mass, which improves the around-town rideability. The six-speed transmission is outfitted with gear ratios the same as the R1. The clutch is redesigned to reduce weight and provide smooth shifting. Final drive is chain.

 

Chassis

Cradling that horsepower factory is perimeter-style steel tube frame mated to a box section aluminium swingarm that adds up to incredible rigidity and confidence inspiring handling. The swingarm encompasses a new cross-sectional construction that reduces weight and keeps the swingarm flex-free for precise handling.

 

Taking care of the suspension duties are 43mm conventional Kayaba forks and a Kayaba rear shock. Mated to a progressive linkage to provide 65mm of travel in the back, the piggy-back style rear shock is fully adjustable for preload, compression and rebound dampening to help fine tune the ride. The front forks provide 140mm of wheel travel and also adjust for preload, compression and rebound dampening. Beefy aluminium triple clamps keeps the front end in line while returning a stable feel to the rider.

 

Newly designed 17" three-spoke wheels are fitted to the FZ1 front and back. Equipped with a 120/70 ZR17 tire up front and a 180/55ZR17 tire in back, the FZ1's rubber has been designed for adaptability to a variety of situations, from city riding to carving canyon back roads.

 

Naked Bike

The FZ1's styling was also heavily influenced by the R1. The aerodynamic front fairing has been designed for a very low drag coefficient and excellent rider wind protection. Retaining the R1's characteristic twin multi-reflector headlights are dual 12V 60/55W bulbs that project a wide beam light while creating that unmistakable R1 cat-eye profile. Body mounted mirrors are used to provide good rear visibility.

 

Most noted in the new FZ1's appearance is the lack of full bodywork, exposing the compact engine for an ageless sporting look. The engine has been finished with a redesigned aluminium cylinder head cover and the cylinders are coated in a striking silver paint.

 

The seat has been designed with rider comfort in mind and the tail section was crafted after that of the R1. Up front, a new low-rise handlebar is used for excellent steering input and rider comfort.

 

Stopping Power

Mated to all that power and handling prowess are brakes designed to bring this machine to a screeching halt. Borrowed from the R1 are the FZ1s front brakes — four piston one-piece calipers clamping to dual 298mm vented disc rotors, with only the brake pads being slightly different. The front brake lever has five position adjustment that allows the amount of brake feel to be dialled in according to rider preference. A single piston rear caliper squeezes a 267mm vented rotor in the back helping provide serious stopping power.

 

Exclusive FZ1 Features:

Compact, ultra-lightweight 998cc, DOHC, 20-valve, liquid-cooled in-line four-cylinder engine tuned for outstanding mid-range punch and more than 140 horsepower.

Redesigned R1-spec crankshaft with increased inertial mass for wider powerband.

All-new cylinder head design with trick-looking silver coating and aluminium cover.

Four 37mm Mikuni CV sidedraft carburettors provide precise fuel/air mixture for superb power delivery across the entire rev range.

Large-capacity radiator features all-new coolant lines routed to carburettors to ensure maximum carburetion and engine efficiency.

All-new clutch features compact, lightweight design and 17-plate assembly for consistent, positive engagement.

All-new shift linkage ensures silky-smooth shift feeling.

All-new 4-into-1 exhaust features stainless steel muffler for outstanding power delivery throughout the rev range.

All-new, ultra-rigid mild steel double-cradle frame uses a link-type engine mounting scheme for reduced vibration and superb manoeuvrability.

All-new cross-sectional design swingarm is lightweight and extremely rigid for superb stability at speed and razor-sharp cornering.

All-new fairing features a half-cowl design with R1-style headlight layout that creates super-aggressive naked bike profile.

All-new handlebar designed with slightly more upright positioning for quick steering and maximum everyday comfort.

All-new fuel tank features sleek, streamlined design and large, 5.6-gallon capacity.

All-new, single-piece double seat offers exceptional solo or two-up comfort.

All-new passenger grab rails.

Engine:

R1-spec one-piece cylinder and crankcase assembly provides tremendous engine rigidity that's lighter and stiffer than two-piece designs.

Compact slant-block engine design uses stacked gearbox shafts to create a low centre of gravity and balanced weight distribution.

Lightweight forged pistons feature carburised connecting rods for superb strength and reduced reciprocating mass.

Throttle position sensor monitors throttle position and adjusts ignition timing to ensure maximum muscle across the powerband.

Yamaha's patented Exhaust Ultimate Powervalve (EXUP) monitors engine rpm and adjusts exhaust flow for maximum acceleration.

Specially designed camshaft lubrication system reduces tappet clearances and valve train mechanical noise.

Patented electroplated cylinder bores ensure greater heat dissipation for consistent power delivery and reduced friction.

R1-spec 6-speed transmission delivers seamless power transfer between gears for maximum acceleration.

Special 3-axis gearbox design stacks input/output shafts to keep overall engine size to super-compact dimensions.

Chassis/Suspension:

All-new mild steel chassis design features ultra-compact wheelbase and 49° maximum lean angle for outstanding SuperSport handling.

43mm conventional front fork is fully adjustable (preload, compression and rebound damping) with 5.6" of travel.

Fully adjustable (preload, compression and rebound damping) piggyback-type rear shock.

Dual 298mm front disc brakes with one-piece 4-piston calipers and 267mm rear disc brake with dual-piston caliper provide outstanding stopping power.

Cast-aluminium 3-spoke wheels wear competition-spec 120/70-ZR17 front and 180-55-ZR17 rear Metzeler radials perfectly suited to both city and high-speed riding.

Adjustable, 5-position front brake lever.

Adjustable, R1-type clutch lever.

Durable #530 O-ring-sealed drive chain.

Additional Features:

High-tech instrument display features analogue tachometer, speedometer and fuel gauge, digital odometer and clock, and lights for neutral, high beam, low fuel, turn signals, low oil and coolant temperature.

Dual 12V 60/55-watt multi-reflector headlight features a sleek, R1-type profile for superb aerodynamics and visibility.

Dual-bulb, R1-style taillight design reduces both weight and size while providing excellent visibility.

Anti-theft wiring harness provides easy-access terminals to simplify alarm installation.

Standard toolkit located in convenient storage compartment under passenger seat.

 

 

Engine 998cc 20-valve 4-cylinder. 143hp @ 10,000 rpm and 105.9Nm @ 7,500rpm of torque. (R1 derived engine)

Gearbox 6-speed

Length 2,125mm

Width 765mm

Height 1,190mm

Wheelbase 1,450mm

Seat Height 820mm

Dry Weight 208 kilograms (231kg wet)

Fuel Tank 21 Litres

[sfowner]

Originally posted by Ah_Pek@May 1 2005, 01:53 AM

Introducing the all-new FZ1.

Derived from the R1, the FZ1 packs a huge amount of horsepower (more than 140) and torque into a chassis that handles like a SuperBike yet is comfortable enough to ride all day long.

 

FZ1 better or Z1000 better?

[E.V.ilyn]

Originally posted by sfowner@May 1 2005, 11:16 AM

FZ1 better or Z1000 better?

both are fierce bikes imo. i am under the impression that kawa have the philosophy of no compromisation in their parts and build quality, and yamaha have the tendency to side with budgetting. so i guess in this area kawa is better.

 

but suitability (for me) has to go to fz1. the cowling though small still provides respectable wind protection for touring. z1000 is a true mean street fighter. that said, my vote goes to fz1 unless the z1000 comes along with a temping price difference.

 

engine wise, fz1 is a little more powerful on paper. but many says kawa engines gives an exhilarating shiokness that can't compare.

brakes wise fz1 borrows from r1 unlike fz6. so is decent at the very least if not better.

suspension wise though fz1 is fully adjustable, but heard from many people that the quality doesn't quite make it. z1000 on the other hand has less grunts i think.

handling wise... i ride the old fzs600 and find it well balanced and nimble. fz1 should not be far off. tried z1000 for a quick round and find it very agile and light. fz1 is pretty much heavier so slow speed handling probably is not as great as z1000.

comfort wise fz1 is probably better with a more upright seating and more comfy seats.

top speed is definitely fz1 stock-stock comparison.

acceleration i think you gotta place pauche and maybe sankar side by side and test. but so many times i see z1000 pulling away like a horny bull on rampage. probably a close fight and you'll be sufficiently happy with both.

economy wise, fz1 should be more than marginally better under all conditions.

 

that much said, it's up to you to put weights on those factors and see which bike you're more inclined to.

[GT Fazer]

EmptyVessel: How much you pay for the Esso bike wash @JB yesterday? Is it like the whitish foam that they use as soap?

[bigman_185]

Originally posted by katana777@Apr 29 2005, 09:12 AM

bike production

Oh. i see.

[katana777]

hiya all, the 4+1 are back from KL!!!!

thx moka n darren for organising the trip

we also went to genting n eat lunch

total milage is abt 790km

[katana777]

thx darren again for bring us go chiong at the pub n get to know mei mei

too bad we have to wake up early or can join her chiong the disco 2nd round

maybe next time....u still have her contact hor

[katana777]

total place visited---> shopping at chinatown, twin tower, taking the LRT, chiong at pubs, batu caves, genting highlands n dun forgetting the good food!!!!

and we saw mr simon on his bike in KL!!! 4D also not so zun

pics will be upload soon, but not by mi

haha

end of report

[katana777]

Originally posted by sfowner@Apr 30 2005, 06:13 PM

I thought the 06 model out on some websites already... EFI and undertail exhaust, but doesn't look as nice as the current model.

that one is edit here edit there one

actual specs n design will come out around august

[katana777]

Originally posted by zinc1@Apr 30 2005, 09:14 PM

this is Ernie i'm also in sg but going kulai soon.. hee hee

y u change nick?

old nick ganna ban ar?

[GT Fazer]

Washing Tips:

Start by THOROUGHLY rinsing the bike. As we said in rule #1, use lots of water and a gentle stream to avoid scratches. Excessive water pressure will cause the dirt to grind at the surface. Some detailers prefer to let the water flow freely out of the hose without the benefit of a nozzle. Again, we do not recommend using pressure washers!

 

Use a detergent designed specifically for bike washing. Don't use common dishwashing detergent, as it is too strong and will remove the wax you want to keep.

 

There really isn't a lot to washing a bike; simply mix detergent according to the manufacturers' directions, dip your sponge or mitt into the bucket and have at it. There are a few guidelines to follow however:

 

Use generous amounts of water/detergent. On a Honda shadow, for example, which is a relatively small bike, use 2 or 3 buckets. On a sized bike, such as a Honda Gold Wing or a Road King, 4 or 5 buckets will do the job.

When you wash a bike, do it in sections. Start with the tank or windscreen if you have one, which will make rinsing easier. Then do other sections, such as the front fender, motor, rear fender and so on, rinsing thoroughly in between. Always rinse soon after applying so a soap film does not develop. Do not suds up the entire bike and then rinse; some of the soap will dry and a film like substance will remain. It's difficult to get rid of!

After washing, rinse the entire bike just to be sure all the soap is cleared away. Don't forget the nooks, crannies and crevices where soap can hide.

If the bike is particularly dirty, wash it twice. The first washing will take care of the majority of the dirt and the second will complete the job. Some bike enthusiasts will wash twice as part of their routine.

Bike washing will go a lot quicker if 2 people are on the job... One will do the washing, while the other follows close behind with the rinsing hose.

 

Waxing Tips:

 

Once you are comfortable with the condition of the paint, it is time to think of a coating of wax. Wax functions as a paint preserver by helping it to retain certain oils which reduce oxidation. It also serves to protect from environmental hazards such as bird droppings, tree sap, smog and the sun's ultraviolet rays. And it gives paint the depth, gloss and richness that can make all those detailing hours worthwhile.

 

Wax is available in three forms: liquid, paste and spray. As a general rule, liquid wax goes on easier, but commercial automotive liquid wax does not last as long as the automotive paste products. Which one you use is your choice. Our only recommendation is that you choose one with a high Carnauba content. Unfortunately, there really isn't any way to determine Carnauba content other than to say that if it is prominent on the label, it's a safe bet. Avoid spray waxes as they are too thin to be of any real use. We recommend two medium applications of wax rather than a single heavy one. You can use the round applicators that come with some waxes or are available separately. A damp rectangular kitchen sponge makes a good applicator, as its shape seems to be able to handle the detail areas of a bike. I also like to use a small foam paint brush for getting up close to edges. An extra application is a good idea on the leading edge of the front fender and on the front of the tank, where the wind will quickly wear off the wax.

 

Polish off the wax Tips:

When the wax is dry, remove the residue using only a very soft cloth. As soon as the cloth movement feel has resistance, find a fresh surface. Using an orbital buffer you risk "burning" the paint. For that reason, we recommend our fellow non-professionals stick with hand waxing instead of an electric buffer (you should see what happen when you get a throttle cable caught up in a spinning polishing bonnet). Always keep an eye on the surface of the cloth you are using, since any dirt or foreign objects can cause scratches.

 

The hardest part is removing the powdery wax residue from the various creases and edges. Emblems and fender tips for example. Some detailers use a soft bristled toothbrush. This approach works, although we urge caution as scratches can occur if you are not careful. A toothpick can be effective sometimes. It might even be worthwhile to remove some items (badges, side marker lamps, for example) before applying the wax.

 

We recommend that you wax your bike once every three months - more if the bike is exposed to harsh conditions. When it comes to deciding if it's time for a new coat of wax, the time-honored water beading test can't be topped. While you are doing the wash pre-rinse, notice how the water drops bead up. If the drops are more than one-half inch diameter, or if the water tends to form "sheets", then a new wax job is a good idea.

 

Just some info I came across. Hope it's useful