[Group] SBF DUCATI Monster

[seraphx]

it is jus my understanding that any mods of the mechanical kind comes from the desire to go faster than the bike was designed to do.Most,not all,of the OEM's are reliable.They work with other parts in harmony.

 

I once had a performance lightweigth rear sprocket in my list of mods.

My carbs,exaust where after market too.Hit 200....when i stop i realise that i lost 3 tooth from the rear sprocket.along with engine leaks all over.

Since then its been Oem for me.nothing happen long life...

 

I may be wrong if i am do correct me.when a bike gets a carb upgrade say like the sizes mentioned 39,41 this translate to bigger consumption of fuel?if so then the bike comsume more petrol that translate to an overworked engine.then down the somewhere down the road you need an engine upgraded or repair because of the extra performance it needs to cope.

 

It is actually the opposite for me.I would rather go for OEM'S to prolonge my bike lifespan,so far its been 15 yrs.Yes if you can imagine evry thing is stock.so some good things came out of it.

 

i love the technical stuff discussd here.lots of new thing learned.

 

This is jus my advice DUKE fans.Do whatever within yur technical means.jus understand the workings of all parts bfore goin ahead.

 

Many things can come out of mods.

 

many sleepless nights,lots of $ well/not well spent, personal gratification and disatisfaction.

 

if it go well ,fine.

 

if not.PLEASE DON LEAVE IT TO THE NEXT OWNER.not nice.

 

 

Like I mentioned in my last post, bikes that leave the test track and into production are usually de-tuned to about 80% of their true capability. But at the same time, the difference in Italian bikes and Jap bikes are vast.

 

Italian bikes tend to be 'race replicas'. Which means, what you get on the track, is more or less what you get in the showrooms. Just with mirrors, lights, and some regulation parts.

 

However, Japanese sports production bikes, at the end of the day, tend to be production bikes. Which means that they start off at the track, but by the time it gets to the showroom, they have been heavily de-tuned. The racing cams, pistons, exhaust, CDI, gear ratios, are usually not quite what you get on the actual design.

 

Hence, that is why you get a bigger performance difference when you apply the same mods to a Jap bike as compared to a Italian bike. For example, if you add an advanced firing system on a Jap bike, you feel the power difference more than as compared to an Italian bike. This is what we experienced with our race bikes. Actually, it was during the Macau MotoGP that we realised this when our riders brought up the issue.

 

Another point is that racing parts are there to give you full performance, but durability definitely takes a hit. For example, lightweight sprockets are there to make the vehicle lighter but they never last us anything longer than one race. We have to replace the sprockets after EVERY race. Same thing with our pistons. Our race pistons are used for one race before being replaced. Continued use of race pistons for daily commuting is not advisable as the wear rate on the piston is MUCH faster and may lead to a higher chance of your piston jamming.

 

Most of my knowledge comes from racing. Both building a race bike, and actually racing it on the tracks. But, I still have much to learn from the more experienced mechs in the pit and from you guys out there...

 

Peace..

 

=)

[technicolorhighway]

Oh yes, i guess its part and parcel of owning a ducati, esp one as unique as this one, but i now have a new 'mod' on my bike, 2 deep scratches on the left side of my fuel tank, one 3 inches long, and another 1.5 inches long. Whoever you are, wherever you are, f**k you, you are a loser, and will never amount to anything in life.

 

/end rant

 

i second that.well said

[technicolorhighway]

Yikes! So sorry! I meant technicolourhighway..

 

=p

 

 

it melts after abt 2-3k on the milleadge.i dont think its corrosion

[specialc]

If I had to hazard a guess, it would be that the resistance of the cables you are using are a little high. For example, if you connected a battery to a copper wire and the same battery to a gold wire. The conductivity on the copper wire is a little lesser than the gold wire. And the electrical loss in the copper wire, is actually given off in the form of heat. Maybe you'd like to check the resistance of the cable you are using, and if the resistance value is less than 1ohm?

 

 

Or more likely, ZERO resistance between them.

 

In otherwords: a dead short somewhere.

 

If you just turn on the key, and a fuse blows, or these wires melt after sometime, something is making a direct path from the positive side of your circuitry to ground: most likely a wire is rubbing through on the frame or the engine case.

 

 

Seraphx is spot on. Resistance or lack of it causes heat. That heat is what causes wires to fry. Look for points where you may have cables that are not correctly attached. Make sure all connections are free of corrosion. That's very important because corrosion is a huge source of resistance and there's a really good chance you have some.

[technicolorhighway]

corrosion im sure.fuses,all intact.

[specialc]

corrosion im sure.fuses,all intact.

 

Check the grounding dude.

[blackreplica]

Hello again boys (and girls?)

 

I just discovered yesterday after removing the sprocket cover that my front sprocket is indeed a 15T. Hearing the way people rave about the 14T on DML really makes me want to try one when its time to change the sprocket/chain set (which won't be anytime soon since the ones i have still have plenty of life left on them). Does anyone here run 14T fronts and planning on changing their sprockets soon due to wear and tear? It may even be a few months from now, i'm not in a hurry. I would like to buy your worn 14T at a nominal fee so i can try it out a little on my own instead of committing $$$ on a new set of 14T to see if i am happier with the gearing. If you have one, please sell it to me! I can be reached at 96510495

[technicolorhighway]

do u hav a pairs of side mirror? how much?

 

 

i got side mirrors

[antonioshabirto]

Hello again boys (and girls?)

 

I just discovered yesterday after removing the sprocket cover that my front sprocket is indeed a 15T. Hearing the way people rave about the 14T on DML really makes me want to try one when its time to change the sprocket/chain set (which won't be anytime soon since the ones i have still have plenty of life left on them). Does anyone here run 14T fronts and planning on changing their sprockets soon due to wear and tear? It may even be a few months from now, i'm not in a hurry. I would like to buy your worn 14T at a nominal fee so i can try it out a little on my own instead of committing $$$ on a new set of 14T to see if i am happier with the gearing. If you have one, please sell it to me! I can be reached at 96510495

 

I would suggest you to stick to 15T for front and change you rear

 

Norm Ratio 1 : 3

[z3r0k3wL]

Hello all,

If you already know about this.....kewl.....for those who are looking for a bag of sorts, I found a brand selling magnetic tank bags (for those long distance trips) which can be converted into a haversack. I like I like!!!

There are two types

Bigger

Medium

 

The price isn't as ridiculous as some of the DP ones I've seen. They have various colours to choose from.

Check it out.....If got enough orders, I'll probably post on the mass ordering part of this forum, coz I'm sure there are other bikers who are looking for this anyway.........

 

Mr Moderator....If this is a no-no.....sorry ah, I'll delete it.

[jas monster]

i got side mirrors

 

orginal side mirrors? i wan a pairs. how much?

[seraphx]

wow...

 

this place has suddenly gone all quiet..

 

guess everyone must have gone overseas for a holidae or something..

 

=p

[z3r0k3wL]

wow...

 

this place has suddenly gone all quiet..

 

guess everyone must have gone overseas for a holidae or something..

 

=p

 

End of the year lah bro.......

I just came back from business trip. Some others also overseas business/personal/school/watever.....trips.....

Anyway, ....I still owe you somethings.....we catch up this weekend?

[Throttle]

I think you do not know where i am geting from ..... diff ppl interpret differently.

 

Its hard to explain over here ....... since you have interpret that way its your call.

 

How did I interpret it, you tell me.

Maybe it's you who misinterpret me becos you think i misinterpret you.

 

It's not a brand war or made in where comparison.

 

 

As explained by seraphx.

[antonioshabirto]

How did I interpret it, you tell me.

Maybe it's you who misinterpret me becos you think i misinterpret you.

 

It's not a brand war or made in where comparison.

 

 

As explained by seraphx.

 

Whatever it is you think its rite ..............

[specialc]

Hi all. I have done a search under this thread and found no answers. So to bore u guys again but this seem to be a common prob.

 

1. My bike after warm up, the idling is damn high. The older M4s dont have a tacho, so I cant tell. But the engine is "racing" ie. high revs.

 

2. So when I reach the lights, I kick into 1st gear, release the clutch to biting point, the rev goes down back to normal.

 

Anyone with any clue?

[blackreplica]

I wouldn't worry too much about it. Idling tends to speed up a bit once the engine is warmed up. Happened with my M400 and current M900 as well. If it's really high you can always lower the idling but doing so may mean the motor will have difficulty holding idle when cold.

 

If you're worried about possible thermal issues with high idling you can always enrichen the mixture slightly, more fuel will keep the cylinder head cool

[GuiNNeSS]

Hi all. I have done a search under this thread and found no answers. So to bore u guys again but this seem to be a common prob.

 

1. My bike after warm up, the idling is damn high. The older M4s dont have a tacho, so I cant tell. But the engine is "racing" ie. high revs.

 

2. So when I reach the lights, I kick into 1st gear, release the clutch to biting point, the rev goes down back to normal.

 

Anyone with any clue?

 

Try checking your vacum hoses, see if its leaking or pinched. It might be messing with your carbs.

[specialc]

I have asked a former M400 owner. He encountered this before with exact same symptoms. The shaft holding the butterfly valves for the carb is not closing. I will do a check tomorrow with the rest of your inputs.

 

Tks, guys.

[hnn]

Just got back on Tuesday myself.. Anyone up for a ride this Saturday night? Message me. 90404477. Hann.

 

PS Andy I still have your tshirt. Up for a ride this week bro?

[seraphx]

End of the year lah bro.......

I just came back from business trip. Some others also overseas business/personal/school/watever.....trips.....

Anyway, ....I still owe you somethings.....we catch up this weekend?

 

Uh..

 

I'll be in Penang from this weekend till the next..

 

Any of you guys want anything from there?

[seraphx]

Hi all. I have done a search under this thread and found no answers. So to bore u guys again but this seem to be a common prob.

 

1. My bike after warm up, the idling is damn high. The older M4s dont have a tacho, so I cant tell. But the engine is "racing" ie. high revs.

 

2. So when I reach the lights, I kick into 1st gear, release the clutch to biting point, the rev goes down back to normal.

 

Anyone with any clue?

 

This happens when your idle jet is a little lean and your idling is set at a point where it's unable to pump in enough fuel. A way to tell if your bike is running rich/lean is by the way your tacho needle revs.

 

For example, when you blip your throttle when the bike is warm, the needle should come up the revs fast, and come down faster, or just as fast. This shows that you're running rich. However, if you're running lean on the idle, when you blip the throttle, the revs will go up fast, but maintain at the high rev for about a second or two, before coming back down. But you can still be rich on the needle and the main.

 

And like I mentioned earlier, if you're slightly lean on the idle, futzing around with your idle screw does sometimes give the symptom of high idling, only coming down when you half-clutch to bring the revs down. Happens to me sometimes...

 

Maybe you'd like to check that out..

 

Just a suggestion.. =)

[antonioshabirto]

I have asked a former M400 owner. He encountered this before with exact same symptoms. The shaft holding the butterfly valves for the carb is not closing. I will do a check tomorrow with the rest of your inputs.

 

Tks, guys.

 

bro chk ur emulsion tube .... the place where it sits on the carb may have got bigger .... this is pretty common for ducati.

 

When this happen your timing goes hay wire.

[Duke_Monster]

hi hann, yea my exams r finally over! yays.. aniwayz yea i'll b up for any ride this weekend. juz sent bike for servicing. need to give it a much overdued run. haha. sat or sun?

 

any other riders keen? more e merrier.

[seraphx]

bro chk ur emulsion tube .... the place where it sits on the carb may have got bigger .... this is pretty common for ducati.

 

When this happen your timing goes hay wire.

 

Oooh.. Good one.. I didn't think of that..

 

=/