Honda RVF400/NC35

[bdaboi]

Originally posted by jungleboy111@Aug 11 2005, 09:06 AM

I just changed Yusa battery at K&T for $70

Hey thanks for the info.. But i'll consider going to LAB if it's cheaper and i'm getting the same thing

[dlm]

Originally posted by eugene_kips@Aug 11 2005, 08:35 AM

And DLM where you get all these pictures from very chio man...you and Y2K got amazing abilities to get such nice pics man

Juz happen came across while surfing. Decide to paste them and share with RVF riders. Most of them were custom made in Thailand.

 

[Hugo]

Originally posted by Pursuit@Oct 8 2002, 10:44 PM

wld u know wat does

 

90º V4 Gear driven DOHC 16 Valve

 

means? Gear driven..puzzle me

as far as i know, the cylinders are connect at the base perpendicularly. hence the 90 degree. its like an 'L', DOHC means double over head cam. gear driven means it is manual, need to clutch in and switch gear, unlike belt driven, which means auto, no need to change gear one.

[mechwira]

Originally posted by Hugo@Aug 13 2005, 03:59 PM

as far as i know, the cylinders are connect at the base perpendicularly. hence the 90 degree. its like an 'L', DOHC means double over head cam. gear driven means it is manual, need to clutch in and switch gear, unlike belt driven, which means auto, no need to change gear one.

sorry but i tot 'chain drive' is like most of our bikes, whereby the rear wheel is powered by the engine via a chain; 'belt drive' is like some big cruisers, particularly custom-built choppers where they actually use a wide belt to connect the rear wheel to the engine unlike the typical motorcycle chain; and finally 'shaft drive' is like the Yamaha FJR1200 sports tourer where it actually uses a shaft to the rear wheel instead of a motorcycle chain. doesn seem to have anything to do with auto/manual. or is this drive in the specs provided in the first post above about something else, some other part of the drive?

[eugene_kips]

Originally posted by Hugo@Aug 13 2005, 03:59 PM

as far as i know, the cylinders are connect at the base perpendicularly. hence the 90 degree. its like an 'L', DOHC means double over head cam. gear driven means it is manual, need to clutch in and switch gear, unlike belt driven, which means auto, no need to change gear one.

"gear driven means it is manual, need to clutch in and switch gear, unlike belt driven, which means auto, no need to change gear one."

 

Is that what gear driven means? belt driven is auto? I dun think so....

whats other guys opinion?

[eugene_kips]

ok guys think these alot of confusion here.....what I really think is rite is that this is refer to the torque/power transmission system between the crankshaft to the "6 speed gears" system (sorry cannot think of a better word to describe off hand). This then is connected to the front spocket which is connected to the rear spocket via chain (the chain we always lubricate...RK, DID etc)

 

so RVF has a gearing system for the above red part lah as compared to the R6 for example has a chain type of transmission.

 

Note this is not referring to any visible chain or gears or shaft imo.

 

kindly correct me if i am wrong. cheers

[PlzGuide]

isnt the gears here implicating to the technology used to drive the cams. ( not to rotate the rear wheel.)

some bikes, the cams are driven by the crankshaft, thru a timing belt or timing chain.

in this rvf case, its cam are driven by gears instead of chain/belt.

why gears, and not chain/belt?

because gear-drives are generally less prone to breakage than belt/chain drives.

in this case, why not all bikes run with gear-drives cams?

erm, is my nsr 150 gear-driven? i suppose only SOHC and DOHC are involved.

 

juz sharing my superfical knowledge, hope i helps.

[Shay]

You guys are all correct. Just to clear some things up...

 

The Gear-driven cams are definitely driven by your crankshaft. There is a gearlike mechanism at the crankshaft that turns a series of small geartrains leading to the the top of the engine where the cams are rotated (at half the speed of the crank)

 

The Neat thing is; These camgears are completely maintenance free! There is a small detent spring system that pushes these gears against each other...so as the gears wears (takes a loooooooong time), the spring action forces the camgears together without any gaps in btw.

 

One reason why these babies dun come with all bikes is becoz of cost and complexity. Imagine the engineers at honda has to calculate the exact diameter of each cam gears, designate thier locations etc etc..all can affect the rotation speed of the cams which needs to be precise. Now...... multiply this setup by TWO in a V4 engine coz we have the fwd and rear cylinders!!!

 

and some peepz wonder why the RVF cost so much for a little 400cc? Iz all becoz of its powerplant baby!

 

bad thing about gear-driven cams is of couse...the bloody weight compared to a simple chain setup.

 

For info; becoz these are straight-cut gears...much like the reverse gearing of a car, the characteristic Meow Meow sound (some call Whirling sound) of the RVF is attributed to these cam gears!

[y2kredbull]

Anyone using Shell 95?

[john81]

hihi.......Just wanna check with you guys out there>>>>

1) Factory jetting good?in terms of fuel heard save petrol, power

also better , how true is it??

2 ) is it worth doing a valve clearance ??

 

Pls reply asap cos might want to install to my bike le...........

nowadays my bike like engine become more noisy and power

missing so thought of adding the above....

[benson]

very LOOOONG nv log in liao. How's all the old birds doing? Missed my rvf, actually sold to a forum guy here. N shay, y no more outin call from u?

[RVFDES]

any of the rvfians got big bore kit on their bikes? our engine can take it bo?

[RVFDES]

dlm... nice bike ... saw ur bike at motorworld quite long ago... think u accident that time =)

[kopiO1605199345]

Hello All! Im new here, ya'll views and info abt rvf. got interested leh.....

 

Im getting my class 2a soon tot of using that class for track riding.. my heart is honda.. so most prob will be going for rvf... is it a good bike for track???

[ambasnakeman]

ya very good

[vtec88]

going to get a RVF

 

 

any problem with the engine since going to reach ten year??

 

 

i ride a CBR400 last time.....repair till scare ah!!

 

 

any comment on buying RVF?wat to look out for?

[redbeacon]

Hmm, where's that Shay dude when we need him eh? He made such great writeups about RVFs -- I wonder whether he's still riding his trusty V4...

 

going to get a RVF

any problem with the engine since going to reach ten year??

i ride a CBR400 last time.....repair till scare ah!!

any comment on buying RVF?wat to look out for?

 

The only best bet to a good RVF is to buy it and do full engine overhaul.

 

(Okay, many of you are screaming at me already but hey that's fact right? )

[deryiu]

i have owned a VFR400 nc30 for 3years.1995-1998

what is my impression of the bike?

Very small and agile ,can keep up with most of the big boys.

very expensive to maintain,check the price of the spark plug,rear wheel bearing,tyre...

very hard to tune ,there only factory jet those days ,flat spot in mid range,home made k&n air filter ,

the money wasn't well spent. for the price tag u can buy any class 2 bike and beat the hell out of it.

 

What made me brought one? the looks... RC30 lookalike .

if given a second choice i will not buy it.

what will i buy ? RD350LC 1980 model.(which i sold the VFR and brought for $500 in 1998 rode for 4 years)

...many NSR150 mistaken the bike for an LC125 and got thrashed .

[abeleatapple]

Hello fellow RVFians, I need to sell my RVF, FS plate, asking for 9k.

 

Posted it in garage sales >>http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144400

 

If you know anybody looking for a good condition RVF to invest, maybe you can recommend my bike.

 

Thanks all.

[maitokiha]

rvf rocks.......

[darky]

can i know where can i get all those tailboards from the pictures of the previous page?

and does changing the tailboard means i will have to alter my sub frame too?

 

thanks in advance

[vtec88]

Interested In RVF exhaust header?

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3172610#post3172610

[brogger]

Hi guys, I been lurking on this thread lately, hoping to find someone to share some notes with. I simply love these bikes, and in fact turn one into my track bike. Cost of parts for repair isn’t that much expensive here, more so if you know how to DIY. If any one here isn’t afraid to get some elbow grease, you can PM me and I could take you step by step in repairing or modifying you beloved NC30/35.

 

Currently 63bhp but setting up for 70+bhp

 

Engine:

1. GMP ceramic coated aluminum clutch plates

2. Heads Skimmed (high compression mod)*

3. Valve clearance & Seat Lapped (blue printed)

4. VFR using NC35 Pistion and rings

5. VFR using NC35 cams

6. VFR using NC35 Heads

7. Silencing gears removed

 

Carb tuning :

1. NC35 Carbs

2. Main Jets replaced *

3. HRC needles *

4. Pilot Screws increased *

5. NC35 HRC Air Box Set up

6. HRC Air tray Scope

7. Needle holes drilled to 2.5mm

 

Brakes:

1. Brembo 4 pot single pin Calipers

2. Brembo Brake Pads

3. Bembo 16mm Brake Master

4. Plot Racing 43mm adoptors

5. Plot Racing Steel Braided brake hose

6. Brembo Cast Iron Full Floating Disc Brake

 

Suspension:

Front

1. Race tech Springs (0.8kg/mm)

2. Race tech gold valves & Shims*

3. 5wt PJ Fork oil

4. 110 Air gap

 

Rear

1. Nitron Racing Suspension*

 

Drive & Wheels:

1. 14T Sunstar

2. 43T AFAM

3. 520 RK Racing chain

4. Magtek 3.00 x 17” (front)

5. Magtek 4.5 x 17” (Rear) – not yet installed waiting for my 17” Diablo

6. Billet Aluminum Front wheel spacers

7. Bridgestone BT-090 (but will be switching to Pirelli DIABLO)

 

* email me if you want to know the exact set-up.

 

 

Miscellaneous:

1. TMW racing tank cap (lightening)

2. Plot racing one-way tank vent valve

3. Plot racing oil drain plug (lightening)

4. Stainless steel screws all-over

5. Rui Racing Rear sets

6. Tyga Race Fairings (coming soon)

7. Tyresox Tire warmers

8. Veypor Data Logger

9. Yoshimura Digital Temp

10. Sensei Racing Clip-ons

11. Quick Throttle Drum

12. Lightened Yoke clap

13. NHK Engineering Steering Damper

14. HRC setup oil cooler

 

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/brogger/CIMG0248.jpg

 

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/brogger/CIMG0250.jpg

 

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/brogger/CIMG0249.jpg

 

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/brogger/CIMG0247.jpg

 

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/brogger/CIMG0163-1.jpg

[oMega_Thailand]

Hey guys... take a look at my VFR 400. . NC211 Bodykit... looks okey ahope

 

http://www.tubeit.se/view_video.php?viewkey=d36f5c4359f4ae7bd7ba

 

Ciaoo

[zongbao]

Hi guys, I been lurking on this thread lately, hoping to find someone to share some notes with. I simply love these bikes, and in fact turn one into my track bike. Cost of parts for repair isn’t that much expensive here, more so if you know how to DIY. If any one here isn’t afraid to get some elbow grease, you can PM me and I could take you step by step in repairing or modifying you beloved NC30/35.

 

Currently 63bhp but setting up for 70+bhp

 

Engine:

1. GMP ceramic coated aluminum clutch plates

2. Heads Skimmed (high compression mod)*

3. Valve clearance & Seat Lapped (blue printed)

4. VFR using NC35 Pistion and rings

5. VFR using NC35 cams

6. VFR using NC35 Heads

7. Silencing gears removed

 

Carb tuning :

1. NC35 Carbs

2. Main Jets replaced *

3. HRC needles *

4. Pilot Screws increased *

5. NC35 HRC Air Box Set up

6. HRC Air tray Scope

7. Needle holes drilled to 2.5mm

 

Brakes:

1. Brembo 4 pot single pin Calipers

2. Brembo Brake Pads

3. Bembo 16mm Brake Master

4. Plot Racing 43mm adoptors

5. Plot Racing Steel Braided brake hose

6. Brembo Cast Iron Full Floating Disc Brake

 

Suspension:

Front

1. Race tech Springs (0.8kg/mm)

2. Race tech gold valves & Shims*

3. 5wt PJ Fork oil

4. 110 Air gap

 

Rear

1. Nitron Racing Suspension*

 

Drive & Wheels:

1. 14T Sunstar

2. 43T AFAM

3. 520 RK Racing chain

4. Magtek 3.00 x 17” (front)

5. Magtek 4.5 x 17” (Rear) – not yet installed waiting for my 17” Diablo

6. Billet Aluminum Front wheel spacers

7. Bridgestone BT-090 (but will be switching to Pirelli DIABLO)

 

* email me if you want to know the exact set-up.

 

 

Miscellaneous:

1. TMW racing tank cap (lightening)

2. Plot racing one-way tank vent valve

3. Plot racing oil drain plug (lightening)

4. Stainless steel screws all-over

5. Rui Racing Rear sets

6. Tyga Race Fairings (coming soon)

7. Tyresox Tire warmers

8. Veypor Data Logger

9. Yoshimura Digital Temp

10. Sensei Racing Clip-ons

11. Quick Throttle Drum

12. Lightened Yoke clap

13. NHK Engineering Steering Damper

14. HRC setup oil cooler

 

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/brogger/CIMG0248.jpg

 

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/brogger/CIMG0250.jpg

 

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/brogger/CIMG0249.jpg

 

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/brogger/CIMG0247.jpg

 

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/brogger/CIMG0163-1.jpg

 

nice track ready bike..