[Archived - 2009] PK Official- Questions for Newbie

[Phantomenace]

there is a OIL light there, does it mean if my petrol is running out, the light will indicate.... ?

[Mark Ng]

ya, the 'oil' light, only custom 4 have now.... when it lights up, it means you are running on reserve.

[nivleK1985]

Originally posted by Phantomenace@Oct 3 2005, 09:16 PM

there is a OIL light there, does it mean if my petrol is running out, the light will indicate.... ?

Ya... and the same light represents 2T for TA150

 

[Mark Ng]

luckily i mentioned 'custom 4' if not the light blink he pump petrol come back shoot me... keke ya, 2 T light is red right? the petrol low indicator is yellow, dun get confused....

 

* the earlier post i mean TA 200 only...

[Phantomenace]

wat is 2T?

[Thunder_X]

Originally posted by Phantomenace@Oct 3 2005, 11:01 PM

wat is 2T?

brother,

although this is a newbie site, but also go do some read up leh...

come here ask what is 2T?

 

:giddy:

 

ans : ENgine Lub Oil.

[Thunder_X]

Got lessoned by JJB for posting new thread...

:sweat:

 

so going to report my question here.

 

=====================================================

AID NEEDED :

Some advises for a safe place to run in my new TA 200 near Kaki Bukit, LOOI, as I'm taking my bike there.

 

CONSTRAINED :

#1, Dont have confident to handle my new TA 200 steadily, so need a place with LEAST VEHICLE + STRAIGHT ROAD as RUN IN PATTERN = [Run in pattern = Hard Acceleration + hard deceleration] according to the article introduced by Smart Bet and another biker senior here.

 

#2, Milage :

1st run in = approx. 32km(20 miles according to the article)

Then change EO

 

Then 2nd run in = 1 hour, approx. 70km (according to the article, 80% of ring sealling process take part in the 1st hour, so was thinking of making 80% of the ring sealed 1st)

Then change EO

 

Change EO = back to LOOIS.

 

So can not run too far away from LOOIS, Kaki Bukit.

=====================================================

 

Any help is appreciated and I'll be taking my bike on Weds between the time 11:30am ~ 4:30pm.

[Thunder_X]

SOS~~

need help~~~

 

 

left around 25 hoours till i getting my bike....

 

SOS~~~~

 

BTW, JJB said that kind of run in method might hurt engine(as in block and piston ring)

 

Smart Bet, any input??

[Smart Bet]

Like I mentioned, different strokes for different folks. Running in an engine is a very subjective topic. I believe in method #1 while someone else thinks it does harm and swears by method #2.

 

Hard acceleration does not mean red-lining your rpms at every gear. JJB is right, it could damage your piston and block IF you do not take care of your EO. Therefore the need to change at such low mileage (50km, 100km, etc.). My personal opinion is that is you want your rings to sit and seal well, being "gentle" will not do the job.

 

If you want to sandpaper something down, do you stroke it lightly or do you rub it hard?

[Thunder_X]

Originally posted by Smart Bet@Oct 4 2005, 10:38 AM

Hard acceleration does not mean red-lining your rpms at every gear. JJB is right, it could damage your piston and block IF you do not take care of your EO. Therefore the need to change at such low mileage (50km, 100km, etc.). My personal opinion is that is you want your rings to sit and seal well, being "gentle" will not do the job.

 

If you want to sandpaper something down, do you stroke it lightly or do you rub it hard?

Actually both can be done....

as long as you use the correct size of sand paper(meaning correct coarse number for sand paper)...

lolz~

 

I'm a stone crafter myself....those who craft for those "red color signature" in Chinese painting or calligraphy.

 

:sweat:

 

actually both has their point....

i'm kinda lost....

[Smart Bet]

Cos you're still confused. There is no ONE SURE CORRECT method. Its really up to individual. Based on my own personal experience, its been working fine.

 

Ok, and maybe the sandpaper analogy was a bad example but you get the point.

[Thunder_X]

Originally posted by Smart Bet@Oct 4 2005, 11:37 AM

Cos you're still confused. There is no ONE SURE CORRECT method. Its really up to individual. Based on my own personal experience, its been working fine.

 

Ok, and maybe the sandpaper analogy was a bad example but you get the point.

lolz...

paiseh to point that out...you has been helping me a lots.

haha~

 

Actually my blood is thriving me to try the new method as I've been a very rebellion type of person, i.e. doesnt like to follows standard rules and regulations.

 

But my wallet is telling me to think twice cause if i messed thing up, I have to change my piston and block, then I'll really cry no tears.

[redhotchilli]

Originally posted by hall3_x@Oct 4 2005, 11:57 AM

lolz...

paiseh to point that out...you has been helping me a lots.

haha~

 

Actually my blood is thriving me to try the new method as I've been a very rebellion type of person, i.e. doesnt like to follows standard rules and regulations.

 

But my wallet is telling me to think twice cause if i messed thing up, I have to change my piston and block, then I'll really cry no tears.

i prefer no hard acceleration and deceleration for run in.... i would run engine at low rpm rather then high spd... i.e. i would change gears early to keep the rpm down....

say for example, when i run in a new car, normal driving i would let the rpm hit 3k+ before change gears, but to run in i would hit 2.5k and change gear... pick up/ acceleration may be slow but i would rather protect the engine which is the most important part of a veh.. phantom no rpm meter so u have to listen to the sound la..

any method u choose its ur choice...

[lunloon]

i am for the low rpm run in method, but i think sometimes u have to let your engine fly a bit so that it is still able to fly when u need to fly.

[Smart Bet]

Just out of curiousity, can anyone explain to me how "easy" run in helps seal your piston rings?

[Thunder_X]

Originally posted by Smart Bet@Oct 4 2005, 02:44 PM

Just out of curiousity, can anyone explain to me how "easy" run in helps seal your piston rings?

hahaha...smart bet, good question posted~!

lolz~~ Their answer should be "By assumed the ring was sealed priginally" i guess?

 

Actually I also dont quite understand the sealing of piston ring part, was thinking whether is it some sort "deformation" on the ring to make it deformed and force it to the inner wall of the block thus sealing happens?

 

ps : I do knows how a block, engine, and piston rings looks like and how it function.

[Smart Bet]

So if the ring was sealed originally, what's the need for breaking in?

 

Seriously, my own personal opinion, i haven't seen or read a logical reason or answer for easy break-in.

[Thunder_X]

Originally posted by Smart Bet@Oct 4 2005, 04:09 PM

So if the ring was sealed originally, what's the need for breaking in?

 

Seriously, my own personal opinion, i haven't seen or read a logical reason or answer for easy break-in.

To be honest, i've seen bike shop installing new block and piston+ring before...

it was kinda tight fit, i.e. the piston can be hardly pushed into the block after it has been ring-ed.

 

so I was thinking maybe the hard push in make the piston deformed a bit (under high temperature and pressure, metals tend to deform a bit) to actually 99.99% sealed against the inner wall of block. (0.01 % is for the a very thin layer of oil particle to actually slip through acting as lubricant i guess, cause if 100% sealed, the ring will stucked to the block's wall liao.)

 

But a loophole in my arguement will be that : how come piston ring can only be sealed in the 1st few milage? If it was to be some deformation due to high temp and pressue, the ring can also deform after that as well.

[Smart Bet]

Do not forget that piston rings have a tension which makes the fit tight when newly installed. But that fit is not perfect.

 

With lubrication, the piston can be drived downwards without deformity due to the "elasticity (for lack of a better word)" of the ring. And when running the engine for the first time, the rings are already "breaking" which in turn, will have no adverse effect on the piston. Breaking-in can also be referred to as "shaving" the piston rings to seal the cylinder bore to an optimum seal.

 

So again, if you're "breaking" the seal so slowly (easy break-in), does that do more harm or good to your engine, seeing as you're running it longer without the rings having an optimum seal around the bore?

[Mark Ng]

try to sound simple here

 

the new block 'wall', its something like a sand paper, which will 'rub' against your ring during running in, after that, the 'sanding' effect of the new block wear off as time goes by, -> 'after running in' i, after this running in period, nothing can be done liao... thus its crucial period during the 1st few miles...

[Mark Ng]

ya, the block wall is something like 'staggered', not straight.

[Thunder_X]

Smart Bet, so you mean the ring is actually deforming and sleaed against the inner wall of block ?

[Smart Bet]

The ring is "shaving" away to seal around the bore. (I wouldn't say deforming).

 

How this happens, as what Mark has said is when the piston is being driven up and down, the ring is pushed against the walls of the cylinder which is staggered. This uneveness on the cylinder wall is what "breaks" the piston ring.

 

When the ring is fully "broken-in", there's no more contact with the "staggered" side of the cylinder wall and thus, ending your "break-in" process.

 

The need to change oil so frequently is cos as the breaking in process causes friction against the cylinder walls, small metal bits are being chipped off and deposited into the oil pan. Without a timely EO change, these metal bits will start circulating all around your engine, causing some real damage.

[farish]

just wondering wats the resale value for a FY ta200 cutom 4? lwts ay low milage of 15 000km......

[farish]

just wondering wats the resale value for a FY ta200 cutom 4? lwts ay low milage of 15 000km......