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Posted
Originally posted by junji3_jj@April 07, 2007 09:35 am

no nid directly under sun n spray.. just spray n after tt leave it in sun to "tanned" actually all the paint wont actually turned out matt de.. if u actually sprayed it with reasonably thick layer.. it will still be smooth even without lacquar.. but with it will have a better shinny effect la..

don87: any WU JIN DIAN or HOMEFIX.. but homefix will certainly cost more..

a pic of my bike with DIY spray with help of some friends.. thanks to them alot...

nice job bro.. one of the moer creative diy designs ive seen around

931153_10151259704352614_844334838_n.jpg

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do.

So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.

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Posted

ya i would agree tt it takes very long to dry lol.. wad i done wad few thin layer n start to add on to the thickness.. the after effect is really nice even without lacquar.. but like wad i said.. reasonably thick.. else u will experience things like 1 patch 1 patch n paints dripping

Posted
Originally posted by junji3_jj@April 07, 2007 09:35 am

no nid directly under sun n spray.. just spray n after tt leave it in sun to "tanned" actually all the paint wont actually turned out matt de.. if u actually sprayed it with reasonably thick layer.. it will still be smooth even without lacquar.. but with it will have a better shinny effect la..

don87: any WU JIN DIAN or HOMEFIX.. but homefix will certainly cost more..

a pic of my bike with DIY spray with help of some friends.. thanks to them alot...

nice job bro.. one of the moer creative diy designs ive seen around

931153_10151259704352614_844334838_n.jpg

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do.

So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hey Guys, need some help on this issue:

 

Let say I painted the work. Do I need to paint many layers, to make it thick? Because after that, Need to apply rubbing compound to even out the edges and then wax it.

 

Also Between Paint and Spray, which one is actually better? In terms of time, technique, and result. Maybe a few more tips will be great.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Noone really answered this question except forum user, but just to confirm, since paint lacquer melts when petrol drips onto it, what would be the best way to get it coated that can still tahan petrol?

 

Send it to the shop for a clear coat?

 

Price?

 

thanks!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/boariggy/poseurborder.jpg

 

what's that coming over the hill? Is it a monster? Monster?

Posted
Originally posted by compfused@April 07, 2007 10:02 am

I would advise you against sprayin one big thick layer..All the paint will chip off with just one scratch..Also it will take a very very long time for the paint to be really really dry..What I would suggest is..Lots of thin layers of paint..LKet it dry and spray again..Repeat process until satisfactory..

But too thin a layer actually causes the paint to end up being very rough, cos the paint particles from a spray can are not fine enough and dry up too quickly. It has to be reasonable thick in order not to end up with certain areas being rough and certain areas smooth.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/Arcfire/PGforumbike.jpg

 

Jun 2002 - May 2003 ~ NSR150SP

May2003 - Dec 2006 ~ GSXR400RR

Oct 2006 - Present ~ Burgman AN400K3

Posted

Many Thin layers is always better than one big thick layer. The reason behind is that, the thick layer inside will never get to dry and from the outside, it is nice, but if u press it or nail it, the paint will sink.

 

Yes, Many thin layers might result in coase areas, thats when rubbing compound is needed to even out the area.

 

Once you spray many thin layers, use the 3m rubbing compound and buff it. Or if you have a buffing machine, better.

 

I regret spraying one big chunk of paint, because it means repeating the work again. :)

Posted
Originally posted by LarryDK@May 16, 2007 11:37 am

Many Thin layers is always better than one big thick layer. The reason behind is that, the thick layer inside will never get to dry and from the outside, it is nice, but if u press it or nail it, the paint will sink.

 

Yes, Many thin layers might result in coase areas, thats when rubbing compound is needed to even out the area.

 

Once you spray many thin layers, use the 3m rubbing compound and buff it. Or if you have a buffing machine, better.

 

I regret spraying one big chunk of paint, because it means repeating the work again. :)

U mean the rubbing compound can be used on paint as well? not just lacquer?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/Arcfire/PGforumbike.jpg

 

Jun 2002 - May 2003 ~ NSR150SP

May2003 - Dec 2006 ~ GSXR400RR

Oct 2006 - Present ~ Burgman AN400K3

Posted

? Dun really understand what you meant by lacquar. Anyway, the rubbing compound is a fine sanding tool, that suppose to even out paints.

 

But there are many points to take note, first, all layers of the paint must be dry, second, it wont work on anti rust paint (This paint are too strong). Third, you need alot of time, and energy. (Unless you got a buffer, lend me if u have)

 

Thus, if you REALLY want it to be REALLY smooth, you have to do that, even clear coat spray might make the surface rough. But actually, the good thing about clear coat between color spray is that, it dry faster than it, dun ask me why, because I spray it hard, it turn out to be very good.

 

In short, if your color spray ends up in a coarse surface, dun bother about sanding it flat. In turn, you should get a clear coat spray, and spray more, this time, harder, like full blow onto it, even if that clear coat becomes too early, its easier to dry. Also, if you want it to dry faster, use a hair dryer, but dun blow it too near.

 

After the clear coat, you HAVE to, I MEAN REALLY HAVE TO send to a paint shop and have it lacquar, because the spray we used normally, cannot stand strong cleaning things, even thinner cannot stand. Thus, you have to go for a good clear coat by a shop. Then your paint will last. :)

 

As for wet sand, it means that the sand paper you buy, can be used for wet/dry. Dry sanding is for faster work, wet sanding is for finer work. Dry sanding ends up more deep scratches, wet sanding wont. Wet sanding, simple, use water and sand after you wash the surface.

Posted

guys, some info...

if u guys are looking for a huge range of rj paints u guys can

got o mustafa ctr. its located at the top lvl. they sell rj primer there too

 

cheers n gd luck.

:cheer:

2004 ~ 2006 - Yamaha 125z

2006 ~ 2008 - CB400 Vtec 1

2008 ~ 2011 - R1 07

2011 ~ ???? - Harley davidson Iron XL883N

 

"LIVE TO RIDE, RIDE TO LIVE"

Posted
Originally posted by hotdog81@May 18, 2007 12:46 am

guys, some info...

if u guys are looking for a huge range of rj paints u guys can

got o mustafa ctr. its located at the top lvl. they sell rj primer there too

 

cheers n gd luck.

:cheer:

hey bro i cant find the rj primer there leh... the can got write primer? :cheer:

Posted
Originally posted by white_blue@May 19, 2007 05:17 am

hey bro i cant find the rj primer there leh... the can got write primer? :cheer:

that time i went there they have it.

on the sticker it says primer and its grey in colour

 

cheers

:cheer:

2004 ~ 2006 - Yamaha 125z

2006 ~ 2008 - CB400 Vtec 1

2008 ~ 2011 - R1 07

2011 ~ ???? - Harley davidson Iron XL883N

 

"LIVE TO RIDE, RIDE TO LIVE"

Posted
Originally posted by white_blue@May 19, 2007 05:17 am

hey bro i cant find the rj primer there leh... the can got write primer? :cheer:

Stopped by Sinbun Trading at Jalan Besar today. They've got RJ London spraypaints and lacquers.

 

(Click to enlarge each image)

http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.1e64340a48.jpg http://img2.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/th.edea9ac4a6.jpg

 

* Shown in the first image from left is white, chrome, gold, and lacquer. I didn't notice whether the shop carries RJ primer, sorry :slapforehead:

Co-Moderator for IT -inerary forum

Biker nerd • Windows • Apple Mac • Android user

 

"Kick up your sidestand bro, let's ride..."

Posted

if u planned to DIY spray u have to bear with the clear paint le... i would nt recommend sending it to bike shop for lacquar.. as the paint we use are very dif from wad they use, it will nt be able to withstand lacquar also... n the lacquar might not "bite" it will results in more cracks den using normal clear paints only

Posted

Black Flat. But it means you cannot put clear coat. Clear coat will make it shiny again.

 

As for the lacquar, ya, its true that it might not work if you send to the bike shop. But its very suggestive, it might work also.

 

If you want to try, bring down to the shop, and get a small portion of it to spray, maybe like the tail light or what. Then wait for the result, if its cracking out, too bad, you have to respray your taillight. If its not, check the condition of the final lacquar, and request to spray more layers. (condition like bubble, thickness)

 

Normally, lacquar works on most paint. But I also tried using different kind of paint on different paint, the result is quite deadly. Thus, the caution that you have to take, is to have it tested before sending it for full spray. Also must tell the person spraying to spray light coats each time. Or else good bye paintwork!!

Posted

Hi, I recently got a TW and there is a big patch of blue sticker on my fuel tank. The material is pretty thick and rough and it is not deco or design. Could it be a repair for a crack in the tank? Is there such a repair method?

 

I plan to respray my tank so I am worried if I take out the sticker, the tank will leak.

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