CBR150R Riders, Join us now!

[kifakw]

hello guys.

 

just would like to check out with you guys what are the market price of a CBR 150 right now? let say plate starting from FV - FZ.

 

can anyone enlighten me on how to calculate the market price based on the plate?

 

currently is that any shop that is selling 2nd hand CBR 150?

 

how's the bike overall compared to a yamaha sparks?

 

the fuel tank size is about 10 litres, how much do you set aside a month for fuel?

 

if let say in the near coming future, i wish to sell the CBR. is the market for it quite small? cause i seldom see CBR being sold in motordiam.

 

thank you all.

[ozzarhomb]

i'm normally a very slow and lazy rider. Gear change at 5k and below. However, i have a odd habit of pulling clutch when downhill and approaching red lights. This means i just free-wheel when ever i approach slower moving vehicles or need to stop. Thus i don't do much hard breaking or sometimes even breaking. Slightly irritating for cars behind me, but i normally check behind before doing so. By free-wheeling roughly 10%-15% of the trip, is it possible to clock 50+km/L?

very possible to clock 50km+\L i feel, since i done it before liao. soon i'm gonna try a 6k RPM road test, see what's the FC like.

 

free-wheeling doesn't help much in saving petrol, it's dangerous also!! engine brake is very useful. maybe u should try to use it to ur advantage.

[d0n]

u refering to doing it in JB? actually unique gave me a quote liao. it's double what you estimated, everything mentioned above minus EO, spark plug, air filter and air cleaner, which are the stuff i'm gonna change myself.

 

Maxima fork oil, Motul DOT 5.1 brake fluids, normal thai brake pads and engine ice coolant. if normal coolant can minus about 20 bucks ba. :giddy:

 

my estimate of $100 is for brake bleeding + EO + plug + the 2 air filters + cheapo coolant + wash carb.

 

if yr brakes are working fine i dont think they will replace the brake fluid in the entire brake system. perhaps they just pump the brakes to let out some brake fluid and topup the brake fluid reservoir.

 

HKL didnt charge me anything for brake fluid topup but quoted me $25 for brakefluid replacement on my ex-KRR. so there's quite abit of difference between topping up and flushing out the old brakefluid altogether.

 

perhaps we try to list down the prices for the required items w/o worksmanship:

EO - $8 Castrol Power1

Plug - $3 NGK CR8E

Air filter + cleaner - $25 original Honda items

coolant - $5/litre Shell ready-mix coolant

fork seal - estimate $40 for 2 sets original Honda

 

wash carb - did mine at Planet for ard $20. tink Planet pricing isnt exactly the lowest ard, hence i tink it is quite a reasonable estimate. there will be places doing this for cheaper.

 

the above replacement items add up is ard $81 + $20 wash carb + $60 worksmanship in total = $161

 

i tink i cfm cant open motordiam, cfm lose money big time by charging pple low prices.

[Aman47]

hello.. long time nv post.. bz wif army.. heh.. anyways, juz started servicing my bike, spent $139 liao. haiz..

 

juz asking, how to know when to wash carb? around wat mileage? and after washing carb, what difference will there be in performance?

[ozzarhomb]

haha i agree, u charge too little le.

i'm intending to flush and bleed the brakes. nothing specifically wrong with my braking system, i'm just being picky so want to do it. coolant i'm also flushing it as well, which means more $$ in for workmanship.

 

another thing is that unique uses rather branded stuff, which might explain for the higher price. perhaps i'll let them do and then comment about their workmanship ba. will update.

 

oh ya, if u do happen to open motorshop tell me, i'll be ur customer!!

 

my estimate of $100 is for brake bleeding + EO + plug + the 2 air filters + cheapo coolant + wash carb.

 

if yr brakes are working fine i dont think they will replace the brake fluid in the entire brake system. perhaps they just pump the brakes to let out some brake fluid and topup the brake fluid reservoir.

 

HKL didnt charge me anything for brake fluid topup but quoted me $25 for brakefluid replacement on my ex-KRR. so there's quite abit of difference between topping up and flushing out the old brakefluid altogether.

 

perhaps we try to list down the prices for the required items w/o worksmanship:

EO - $8 Castrol Power1

Plug - $3 NGK CR8E

Air filter + cleaner - $25 original Honda items

coolant - $5/litre Shell ready-mix coolant

fork seal - estimate $40 for 2 sets original Honda

 

wash carb - did mine at Planet for ard $20. tink Planet pricing isnt exactly the lowest ard, hence i tink it is quite a reasonable estimate. there will be places doing this for cheaper.

 

the above replacement items add up is ard $81 + $20 wash carb + $60 worksmanship in total = $161

 

i tink i cfm cant open motordiam, cfm lose money big time by charging pple low prices.

[ozzarhomb]

hello.. long time nv post.. bz wif army.. heh.. anyways, juz started servicing my bike, spent $139 liao. haiz..

 

juz asking, how to know when to wash carb? around wat mileage? and after washing carb, what difference will there be in performance?

oh no wonder haven't heard from u in such a long while. i thought u change bike already.

 

not too sure about duration for carb servicing, but from a few mechanic's mouth, they told me to leave the carb alone unless they start to give problem. i agree with them on this. especially for our bike, the carb seems to be rather maintenance-free except for naruto's bike.

[collectees]

very possible to clock 50km+\L i feel, since i done it before liao. soon i'm gonna try a 6k RPM road test, see what's the FC like.

 

free-wheeling doesn't help much in saving petrol, it's dangerous also!! engine brake is very useful. maybe u should try to use it to ur advantage.

 

in these past 2 days of riding i have noticed a loud creaking noise which i suspect comes from my chain. this does not happen immediately during riding, but usually after warmup. i had no idea what caused this, but i noticed my chain slack to be about 2cm or more, which i think is over the recommended limit. when i spoke to friends who ride, they mentioned that it damages the chain to free wheel at high speeds.

 

then i tried not free wheeling, as advised with engine breaking, and the noise seems to subside. could it be true that free wheeling at high speeds damages the chain? funny thing is that i just lubed a couple of days back!

[collectees]

here a questions everyone but me probably knows. what is the measuring unit of our trip meter?

 

307898

BBBBW (B=black dial, W=white dial)

 

i guess it to be:

1. 307898 meters

2. 30789.8 Km, white dial being the decimal point

 

please enlighten.

[ozzarhomb]

here a questions everyone but me probably knows. what is the measuring unit of our trip meter?

 

307898

BBBBW (B=black dial, W=white dial)

 

i guess it to be:

1. 307898 meters

2. 30789.8 Km, white dial being the decimal point

 

please enlighten.

spot on!! no 2!! :smile:

[collectees]

spot on!! :smile:

 

spot on idea 1 or 2?

[NaRuTo13]

oh no wonder haven't heard from u in such a long while. i thought u change bike already.

 

not too sure about duration for carb servicing, but from a few mechanic's mouth, they told me to leave the carb alone unless they start to give problem. i agree with them on this. especially for our bike, the carb seems to be rather maintenance-free except for naruto's bike.

 

ya lor my is abit problem.. but no one know for sure its carb or not too.. unless i change to brand new.. o well now i am monitoring the 3rd diff type of eo..

 

1st i did motul full syntehic. heard its good on big cc bike thus will have underpower feeling on our bike..

2nd maxima fully eo my previous change.. confirm much better than this n my current castrol power 1..

 

for weeboon obbservation it shouldnt have much diff in term of throttling n normal cruising for maxima full and castrol semi.. but i can feel quite a huge diff..

 

also duno wat the problem ba..under power is like u must whack until full throttle the speed then will start to accelrate then back on normal throttling. meaning full throttle already at 80 then slowly start to climb up in term of speed compared to normal maybe 50-75percent of total throttle at the normal speed.

[JetGrey]

Hey guys! Haven't been in for quite a while. Currently facing some problems with my bike. Have to repair my whole fork, change oil, seal and straighten something, i think.. Quoted $280. Bloody previous mech, when I asked him abt the fork, say it's ok. Now, apparently, water leak inside already (prob the rain) and suspension no good liao. After pushing the bike down and letting the suspension push it back up, can still pull it up some more. Worse part, next month is ORD month, no pay. Have to wait until Jan then can change.. Haiz.. Anyone repair fork before?

 

As if that's not bad enough, my bike screeches when going slow speed (even with lubing) but the screeching goes away after i speed up a little (maybe just becos the engine sound cover the screeching sound). Then, there's also my screeching rear brake. And my bike is only 7 months plus old. Think need to go ask a real mech for a full inspection and service.

[NaRuTo13]

Hey guys! Haven't been in for quite a while. Currently facing some problems with my bike. Have to repair my whole fork, change oil, seal and straighten something, i think.. Quoted $280. Bloody previous mech, when I asked him abt the fork, say it's ok. Now, apparently, water leak inside already (prob the rain) and suspension no good liao. After pushing the bike down and letting the suspension push it back up, can still pull it up some more. Worse part, next month is ORD month, no pay. Have to wait until Jan then can change.. Haiz.. Anyone repair fork before?

 

As if that's not bad enough, my bike screeches when going slow speed (even with lubing) but the screeching goes away after i speed up a little (maybe just becos the engine sound cover the screeching sound). Then, there's also my screeching rear brake. And my bike is only 7 months plus old. Think need to go ask a real mech for a full inspection and service.

 

ur bike can move ? try other bike shop see quote? as my previous post about fork.. the mech told me change is few hundred bucks.. i think in the range of 100 and above at least..

[ozzarhomb]

i have yet to try fully synthetic on my bike before so no comments yet. since u say got huge difference, i'll be looking forward to changing to fully synthetic. too bad i still have 1 more bottle of semi, maybe i'll use it up first then change to fully.

 

got a few bottles of maxima extra fully waiting in my cupboard for me. :cheeky:

 

ya lor my is abit problem.. but no one know for sure its carb or not too.. unless i change to brand new.. o well now i am monitoring the 3rd diff type of eo..

 

1st i did motul full syntehic. heard its good on big cc bike thus will have underpower feeling on our bike..

2nd maxima fully eo my previous change.. confirm much better than this n my current castrol power 1..

 

for weeboon obbservation it shouldnt have much diff in term of throttling n normal cruising for maxima full and castrol semi.. but i can feel quite a huge diff..

 

also duno wat the problem ba..under power is like u must whack until full throttle the speed then will start to accelrate then back on normal throttling. meaning full throttle already at 80 then slowly start to climb up in term of speed compared to normal maybe 50-75percent of total throttle at the normal speed.

[ozzarhomb]

wah tell u all something interesting. yesternight i was at Geylang for supper. when i walk past my bike, i saw this foreign indian worker standing right beside my bike, giving the "this is my bike" look on his face.

 

me and my friends decided to stand at a distance to observe him cuz it's so fishy. guess what? he started fondling my bike!! touching the tank, the IU and fiddling with my fuel tap.

 

cannot take it, i think have to wash bike liao. weird people!!

[NaRuTo13]

i have yet to try fully synthetic on my bike before so no comments yet. since u say got huge difference, i'll be looking forward to changing to fully synthetic. too bad i still have 1 more bottle of semi, maybe i'll use it up first then change to fully.

 

got a few bottles of maxima extra fully waiting in my cupboard for me. :cheeky:

 

huge diff maybe cos my bike somewhere have problem so affect the performance.. so i can make use full syntehtic to cover the lapse from semi for now..

 

erm i ask u.. when u throttle meaning both ur speedo n rpm needle will be at a number.. base on what u understand, what if the needle move up n down.. mean not at stable/constant number ( even when i am on mantain throttle)..

 

that y the mech say carb problem.

[JetGrey]

ur bike can move ? try other bike shop see quote? as my previous post about fork.. the mech told me change is few hundred bucks.. i think in the range of 100 and above at least..

 

Can move.. Just dat it's quite shaky. And it'll vibrate a lot if i use hard front brake.

[collectees]

heres something i learnt while having a chat with a car fanatic. sounds similar to bikes, since the mechanics to the engine is the same.

 

scenario 1: at high speeds, lets say 80Km/H, you see the traffic light turn red. being a distance away, you clutch in and gear to neutral, allowing free wheeling, breaking near to stop line.

scenario 2: on seeing the red light, you off throttle, allowing engine breaking at gear 6 till stop line.

 

the mechanics of the engine is that during scenario 1, the engine consumes some petrol, since at neutral petrol is needed to keep idiling RPM. however, scenario 2 uses the momentum of the moving bike to run the engine, just like how the electric motor starts the engine when we press the start button. thus using the momentum, and the friction in the engine to cause engine breaking, little or no fuel is involved. this allows better FC.

 

does anyone else agree with this theory?

[d0n]

huge diff maybe cos my bike somewhere have problem so affect the performance.. so i can make use full syntehtic to cover the lapse from semi for now..

 

erm i ask u.. when u throttle meaning both ur speedo n rpm needle will be at a number.. base on what u understand, what if the needle move up n down.. mean not at stable/constant number ( even when i am on mantain throttle)..

 

that y the mech say carb problem.

 

i supposed when u say the needle move up and down, you r referring to RPM meter needle.

 

i suggest u try letting the bike run idle w/o any throttling. does the bike engine die off?

 

if yes, let me throw in one more possibility for the problem u r facing - it could be the fuel suction pump found below the fuel tank. when the suction pump is faulty, you will encounter symptoms as follow:

- bike engine dies off when left to idle

- fluctuating RPM needle

- no amount of adjustments made to the idling knob of the carburettor seems to solve the above 2 symptoms.

 

if no, then perhaps yr mech may be right about the carburettor.

list of other possible items to check:

- choke cable working well

- throttle cable working well

- air filter + cleaner are in good condition

- no air leakages from the thick rubber hose leading from airbox to carburettor

[d0n]

heres something i learnt while having a chat with a car fanatic. sounds similar to bikes, since the mechanics to the engine is the same.

 

scenario 1: at high speeds, lets say 80Km/H, you see the traffic light turn red. being a distance away, you clutch in and gear to neutral, allowing free wheeling, breaking near to stop line.

scenario 2: on seeing the red light, you off throttle, allowing engine breaking at gear 6 till stop line.

 

the mechanics of the engine is that during scenario 1, the engine consumes some petrol, since at neutral petrol is needed to keep idiling RPM. however, scenario 2 uses the momentum of the moving bike to run the engine, just like how the electric motor starts the engine when we press the start button. thus using the momentum, and the friction in the engine to cause engine breaking, little or no fuel is involved. this allows better FC.

 

does anyone else agree with this theory?

 

my path of thought is rather simple.

 

lets 1st look at the qns from the throttle/RPM level perspective.

 

when u close throttle, some amount of fuel is still being consumed to keep the engine idling at 1K RPM or slightly more (i.e. there's no way an engine can run without consuming fuel be it during idling or when engine braking).

 

when u throttle, RPM rises. in this case, i assume more throttle opened leads to more fuel consumed which in turn leads to higher RPM.

 

looking back at the 2 scenarios given, i would say scenario 1 results in lower RPM in quicker time compared to scenario 2.

 

next, let's look from the gear perspective.

 

i raise the question: do our bikes consume more petrol when stationary and engaged in

a) neutral gear OR

b) gear 1 or any other gears?

 

IMO, both a) & b) is going to consume same amount of petrol. hence, let's not bother ourselves w/ the gear factor.

 

conclusion anyone??

[FuLL of SoRRoW]

wah tell u all something interesting. yesternight i was at Geylang for supper. when i walk past my bike, i saw this foreign indian worker standing right beside my bike, giving the "this is my bike" look on his face.

 

me and my friends decided to stand at a distance to observe him cuz it's so fishy. guess what? he started fondling my bike!! touching the tank, the IU and fiddling with my fuel tap.

 

cannot take it, i think have to wash bike liao. weird people!!

 

hahaha..

if he had humped ur bike at that moment.. i'm sure u would have whacked him

[collectees]

my path of thought is rather simple.

 

lets 1st look at the qns from the throttle/RPM level perspective.

 

when u close throttle, some amount of fuel is still being consumed to keep the engine idling at 1K RPM or slightly more (i.e. there's no way an engine can run without consuming fuel be it during idling or when engine braking).

 

when u throttle, RPM rises. in this case, i assume more throttle opened leads to more fuel consumed which in turn leads to higher RPM.

 

looking back at the 2 scenarios given, i would say scenario 1 results in lower RPM in quicker time compared to scenario 2.

 

next, let's look from the gear perspective.

 

i raise the question: do our bikes consume more petrol when stationary and engaged in

a) neutral gear OR

b) gear 1 or any other gears?

 

IMO, both a) & b) is going to consume same amount of petrol. hence, let's not bother ourselves w/ the gear factor.

 

conclusion anyone??

 

with regards to your question, i feel that as long as no gear is engaged, RPM would be at idiling, thus comsuming the same anout of petrol. if we throw in the theory behind push starting in to this discussion, i think it would support your idea that an engine would consume fuel as long as the pistons the are firing. thus it also shows that the higher the RPM, the more fuel consumed as the pistons fire more times per minute. this means it's better FC to free wheel as we get to idiling immediately. hmm... did i just answer my own question?

[ozzarhomb]

oh no,this seems like a 25 marks exam question!

 

my understanding is that as long u close the throttle, the carb only feeds enough air and petrol for the engine to operate at idling speed. hence my simple conclusion will be that the FC - scenario1 = scenario 2.

 

on a practical note,

 

scenario 1 - if u are at 80KPH and u clutch in and start kicking down to neutral, ur gearbox will knock badly and u'll spoil ur gears inside ur gearbox soon enough.

 

scenario 2 - ur engine probably will die way before u come to a stop at gear 6.

 

wat do u say?

 

heres something i learnt while having a chat with a car fanatic. sounds similar to bikes, since the mechanics to the engine is the same.

 

scenario 1: at high speeds, lets say 80Km/H, you see the traffic light turn red. being a distance away, you clutch in and gear to neutral, allowing free wheeling, breaking near to stop line.

scenario 2: on seeing the red light, you off throttle, allowing engine breaking at gear 6 till stop line.

 

the mechanics of the engine is that during scenario 1, the engine consumes some petrol, since at neutral petrol is needed to keep idiling RPM. however, scenario 2 uses the momentum of the moving bike to run the engine, just like how the electric motor starts the engine when we press the start button. thus using the momentum, and the friction in the engine to cause engine breaking, little or no fuel is involved. this allows better FC.

 

does anyone else agree with this theory?

[ozzarhomb]

actually i'll go more towards the former than the latter. i always felt that CBR150R has an issue with fuel and air intake system rather than the carb giving problem.

 

a good example will be the common problem that we all face when caught in the rain, sometimes the bike just loses power and sometimes it'll just die off.

 

i suspect it's due to water getting into system, either the fuel line system or the air intake system. of course the problem might be due to the carb as well so we can't rule out that possibility.

 

my gut feeling is that it's probably not the carb but his mechanic's probably the one with more experience so he might be right. or maybe with the knowledge that a carb will earn him more $ than the fuel line.

 

as for the fluctuating RPM, i have no idea man, RPM needle?

 

i supposed when u say the needle move up and down, you r referring to RPM meter needle.

 

i suggest u try letting the bike run idle w/o any throttling. does the bike engine die off?

 

if yes, let me throw in one more possibility for the problem u r facing - it could be the fuel suction pump found below the fuel tank. when the suction pump is faulty, you will encounter symptoms as follow:

- bike engine dies off when left to idle

- fluctuating RPM needle

- no amount of adjustments made to the idling knob of the carburettor seems to solve the above 2 symptoms.

 

if no, then perhaps yr mech may be right about the carburettor.

list of other possible items to check:

- choke cable working well

- throttle cable working well

- air filter + cleaner are in good condition

- no air leakages from the thick rubber hose leading from airbox to carburettor

[ozzarhomb]

hahaha..

if he had humped ur bike at that moment.. i'm sure u would have whacked him

yes confirmed!! i'll whacked him with my helmet which my gf insisted that i carry along when in Geylang, in case i have to use it for other purposes. :cheeky: