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Posted
ok, a lot of confusion here.

 

i was told that i needed to change both the steering cone bearing as well as the wheel bearings, at a total cost of $140.

 

the wheel bearing is the one that is supposed diff size from standard wheel bearing.

 

the thing is, i noe that to check wheel bearing i should jack up front, get a fren to hold bars tight while i shake wheel from side to side and listen for a dull thudding sound. i have no jack and it never occurred to me to check anyway, so i took the guy's word for it. only on hindsight do i realize i shd get a 2nd opinion at my regular shop.

 

steering cone is the one i donno how to check and donno wat will hapen if damaged. so again i took his word for it. and again i shd go get a second opinion.

 

 

Is the supposedly bigger bearing from the rear wheel at the sprocket? Just curious

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Posted
Is the supposedly bigger bearing from the rear wheel at the sprocket? Just curious

 

no, front wheel axle bearing

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/689/siggyyy.jpghttp://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/203/hsmj.jpg

It's true: it's more fun to ride a slow bike fast than to ride a fast bike slow. Admittedly, though... It is MOST fun to ride a fast bike fast!

Posted
no, front wheel axle bearing

 

OK. Anyway, for wheel bearing, when your rim is off the bike, use your finger to turn the bearing inner race. If it doesn't feel smooth, its shot. The jacking up the bike and twisting the wheel method can only uncover severly damaged bearings.

 

For steering cone, push and pull the bike into walking speed and jam the brake. What you are looking for is a thud sound at the cone area. It is made by the steering stem hitting the bearing back and forth. That signifies a loose cone bearing. If the cone bearing is too tight, the bike will weave and steering requires more effort. To check for damaged cone bearings, jack the front of the bike up and turn the bars to and fro. It should be smooth and no "notching" should be felt. Notching is where the steering sort of detents into position and wants to stay there. Common areas where notching can be felt is when the wheel is pointing straight ahead.

 

Hope this is of use to you.

Posted

Hope this is of use to you.

 

actually what would be of use to me seems to be a center stand or car jack heh heh :cheeky:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/689/siggyyy.jpghttp://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/203/hsmj.jpg

It's true: it's more fun to ride a slow bike fast than to ride a fast bike slow. Admittedly, though... It is MOST fun to ride a fast bike fast!

Posted
Actually, wheel bearings are factory greased and sealed. No maintenance is necessary till failure. However, you would wanna grease the dust seal and axle to prevent corrosion and ease installation/removal.

 

$140 for steering cone change is overpriced imo. Most honda bikes use the same cone bearing, even goldwing.

 

 

current ball bearing found on de RR are quite lasting & yes,it sealed.putting grease is more for maintance related.

 

as for goldwing.the bearing is the same size but the part number is different.due to the ball used were bigger for extra load(thats what i gather).base on the old GL1500.not sure abt GL1800.:cheeky:

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/7007/sbfs101.jpg

 

RIDE it while u can.....NOT when u want !.

Posted
Can't be that cheap ley

 

if it the rear seat cover made by Honda for RR3/4/5/6 then it around that price if buy from ebay lor.:cheeky:

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/7007/sbfs101.jpg

 

RIDE it while u can.....NOT when u want !.

Posted
current ball bearing found on de RR are quite lasting & yes,it sealed.putting grease is more for maintance related.

 

as for goldwing.the bearing is the same size but the part number is different.due to the ball used were bigger for extra load(thats what i gather).base on the old GL1500.not sure abt GL1800.:cheeky:

 

You are right, the GL1500 uses different P/N bearings. Its the relatively newer bikes that use the same bearings. Most hondas now uses 91015-KT8-005 for its top bearing, including GL1800. Bottom bearing is either 91016-MR7-003 or 91016-KT8-005, with the latter being more predominant.

Posted

ok....a bit confused yah....

i was talking about the cone bearing...the one control the handle

its been yars of 'abusive' usage....

maybe it needed a change..

i was quoted @ shops tat it requires some modfications....coz likely they gona use the bearings for super 4...

so im quite confused...n refused to change till i get the specs for it...

meanwhile....wer do i get the original cone bearings?? FJT ehh??

The more you Sweat in Practice, the less you Bleed in Battle

Posted
ok....a bit confused yah....

i was talking about the cone bearing...the one control the handle

its been yars of 'abusive' usage....

maybe it needed a change..

i was quoted @ shops tat it requires some modfications....coz likely they gona use the bearings for super 4...

so im quite confused...n refused to change till i get the specs for it...

meanwhile....wer do i get the original cone bearings?? FJT ehh??

 

CBR600RR uses both 91015-KT8-005 and 91016-KT8-005. Check that they are correct b4 they install. Can buy at FJT or ask bikeshop get for you.

Posted

wow... mech 140 for front wheel bearing ! that's super ex.:giddy:

 

i got mine change at 28 last time ......

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s190/redsuns74/FP3762J-1_zps552ea30c.jpg
Posted
wow... mech 140 for front wheel bearing ! that's super ex.:giddy:

 

i got mine change at 28 last time ......

 

 

dun rub salt worr....kekekeke.whats done is done la.

 

oh....the "Switch" have?...kekeke...mine now still running hot wire style....wahahaha.:cheeky:

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/7007/sbfs101.jpg

 

RIDE it while u can.....NOT when u want !.

Posted
dun rub salt worr....kekekeke.whats done is done la.

 

oh....the "Switch" have?...kekeke...mine now still running hot wire style....wahahaha.:cheeky:

 

 

ok..ok.... sorry .i have the thing already . will pass to you when we next meet :cheeky:

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s190/redsuns74/FP3762J-1_zps552ea30c.jpg
Posted
ok..ok.... sorry .i have the thing already . will pass to you when we next meet :cheeky:

 

 

okie....10Q...10Q.:cheeky:

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/7007/sbfs101.jpg

 

RIDE it while u can.....NOT when u want !.

Posted
I help you ups your sales hor... Btw, hows d K2 Racetec? Heavy anot?

 

10Q...10Q.:cheeky:

 

Yes,the "energy" needed to flip side to side after #6 was very much noticable.

 

and arm really get tired...after 10laps.:giddy:

 

maybe tire pressure not ideal. was kind of "late" when reach there that day.:dozed:

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/7007/sbfs101.jpg

 

RIDE it while u can.....NOT when u want !.

Posted
10Q...10Q.:cheeky:

 

Yes,the "energy" needed to flip side to side after #6 was very much noticable.

 

and arm really get tired...after 10laps.:giddy:

 

maybe tire pressure not ideal. was kind of "late" when reach there that day.:dozed:

 

Heh...Told ya so the K2 are a bit heavy...Not that ideal for our RR.. Anyway just try to 'comfort' yourself with the current rubber,after all, it's not that cheap.. And in good time if you intend to change your tayar again, lemme know as I can source out buyer from you. Btw, your PP still good hor.. Just fix today. Feel so confident when at the PIE Bedok North exit... :cheeky:

:slapforehead:
Posted
Heh...Told ya so the K2 are a bit heavy...Not that ideal for our RR.. Anyway just try to 'comfort' yourself with the current rubber,after all, it's not that cheap.. And in good time if you intend to change your tayar again, lemme know as I can source out buyer from you. Btw, your PP still good hor.. Just fix today. Feel so confident when at the PIE Bedok North exit... :cheeky:

 

 

the rubber is more sticky....and RR is down in power....so...haizzz....RR7 ! :cheeky:

 

next up....PR medium.hoepfuly it helps in the turning area.

 

The PP should be still good.not much mile were put in.i think less then 1000km nia.but i didnt try on normal riding...so i dunno.:dozed:

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/7007/sbfs101.jpg

 

RIDE it while u can.....NOT when u want !.

Posted

Hi to all here, i intend to buy the cbr 600,2007 model and i have beend going through all the pages here and foound some interesting issues and i hope maybe some of you can help me.

 

Is there a power cut ? example cant go any higher den certain speed or power totally cut off and bike needs to be restarted?

 

If i change to a street legal exhaust with maybe a KNN filter, need a PC3? and if dun install PC3 is there any side effects? Also changing to a street legal exhaust ,i read from one of the threads in here, the cpu will read it as errors or something? can i have some valuble information?

 

Thanks to all.

 

Regards

LF

My Friend you are in good hands as God knows whats best for you. 30/10/12 Dedication,love,arrogance,pain tolerance...these things WILL bring you lvl after lvl.Strength of mind. Strength of character.Drop your hero worship. Become the animal.U can do anything. Work. Practice. Crash. Improve. Crash. Win. Nv give up. Nv surrender. Crush them. Crush their spirit. Crush their dreams.Now Move.

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