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Kawasaki 1400s


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not true... my meter will show me even at 35psi...

but i do have to travel abit before it'll be displayed...

 

think i met your brother on friday night... too bad you weren't there...

 

I put mine in KPA as most air station gauges read in KPA, anyway, yes you have to travel a few minutes for it to show the tire pressures.

However, although it is a great gadget, and will at least show you that you do not have a flat tire, I am surprised about the lack or reliability with the reading.

The gauge at some points was reading 230 KPA, the min pressure based on the manual, when i went to the station and checked it was at 265 KPA, so within the acceptable range of 290 KPA recommended.

Same with the mileage gauge a good indicator but not very accurate if you calculate your consumption with the gas you put in and how many km you rode.

If you ride a GTR or ZZR 1400 we want to hear from you at www.kawa1400.blogspot.com

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not true... my meter will show me even at 35psi...

but i do have to travel abit before it'll be displayed...

 

think i met your brother on friday night... too bad you weren't there...

 

I put mine in KPA as most air station gauges read in KPA, anyway, yes you have to travel a few minutes for it to show the tire pressures.

However, although it is a great gadget, and will at least show you that you do not have a flat tire, I am surprised about the lack or reliability with the reading.

The gauge at some points was reading 230 KPA, the min pressure based on the manual, when i went to the station and checked it was at 265 KPA, so within the acceptable range of 290 KPA recommended.

Same with the mileage gauge a good indicator but not very accurate if you calculate your consumption with the gas you put in and how many km you rode.

If you ride a GTR or ZZR 1400 we want to hear from you at www.kawa1400.blogspot.com

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Same with the mileage gauge a good indicator but not very accurate if you calculate your consumption with the gas you put in and how many km you rode.

 

 

frenchbiker, how far off is this inaccuracy in fuel reading?

 

is your current/avg fuel consumption inaccurate?

 

this may lead to the incorrect calculation leading to incorrect km to refill data and also wrong fuel levels?

 

im curious how far off accurate is this?

 

as I believe most of the sensors are similar to the zzr14, maybe these owners have a solution for u.

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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There is no fix for the inaccurate meters. One problem is the sampling rate of the computer, which only reads from the sensors at a ridiculous interval.

 

For example, the 'instant' fuel consumption only refreshes every second. This means at the moment of acceleration when more fuel is used is not registered. By the time the computer reads from the sensor, the bike is cruising already, consuming less fuel.

:cool:
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hey, one second lag is pretty ok i reckon.

 

my tiger's instant fuel consumption has a delay of abt 3secs.

and to make matters worst, moving off with JUST releasing the clutch causes it to read the max of 15L/100km till there is throttle input and a higher speed is achieved.

 

this inaccurate reading is giving a false avg consumption for each tank and also i believe an inaccurate fuel level and km to refill reading.

 

how to solve this does anyone know?

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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frenchbiker, how far off is this inaccuracy in fuel reading?

 

is your current/avg fuel consumption inaccurate?

 

this may lead to the incorrect calculation leading to incorrect km to refill data and also wrong fuel levels?

 

im curious how far off accurate is this?

 

as I believe most of the sensors are similar to the zzr14, maybe these owners have a solution for u.

 

I don't even pay attention to the instant consumption, but when I refuel i always reset the average consupmtion, i know exactly how much gas I put and how mcuh i ride, my consumption is 15.86 km/liter or 6.305 l per 100km, my computer shows 6.1 liter, so a bit off.

 

For the tire reading, gauge was showing 240 KPA, when i checked with the air station it was reading 275 KPA which is acceptable, so accuracy not that good either.

If you ride a GTR or ZZR 1400 we want to hear from you at www.kawa1400.blogspot.com

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I don't even pay attention to the instant consumption, but when I refuel i always reset the average consupmtion, i know exactly how much gas I put and how mcuh i ride, my consumption is 15.86 km/liter or 6.305 l per 100km, my computer shows 6.1 liter, so a bit off.

 

For the tire reading, gauge was showing 240 KPA, when i checked with the air station it was reading 275 KPA which is acceptable, so accuracy not that good either.

 

Based on your figures above:

 

Actual calculation: 15.86km/L or 6.305 L/100km

Gauge reading : 16.39km/L or 6.1 L/100km

 

Difference in reading is about .53km per litre.

So assuming every fill up of 20Litres, it actually undereads by a total of 10km or so. This is still fairly accurate! I'll be overjoyed with such accuracy.:bounce:

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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Right now i am using the primitive method to calculate the FC. when the digital show fuel low. i take note of the trip clocked at the point of time i topped up my petrol and bench marked it. The next time when i topped up, i will try to cross the previous setting. Of course, i make sure my travelling speed maintained the same through out the journey. I capped 100km/hr on expressway and 50km/hr or otherwise stated on normal road.

 

For example

 

today - i topped up 18.96 litres at 317km

the next time - i will top up after crossing the 317km mark.

 

slowly i will let it hit 22 litres and see whats the mileage for full tank

 

i know it may not be accurate after all. My intention is just to know roughly the FC for bike

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not true... my meter will show me even at 35psi...

but i do have to travel abit before it'll be displayed...

 

think i met your brother on friday night... too bad you weren't there...

 

yoz, my brother told me he saw you too. ^_^

 

i think you have met my two siblings. heheheheheh

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Right now i am using the primitive method to calculate the FC. when the digital show fuel low. i take note of the trip clocked at the point of time i topped up my petrol and bench marked it. The next time when i topped up, i will try to cross the previous setting. Of course, i make sure my travelling speed maintained the same through out the journey. I capped 100km/hr on expressway and 50km/hr or otherwise stated on normal road.

 

For example

 

today - i topped up 18.96 litres at 317km

the next time - i will top up after crossing the 317km mark.

 

slowly i will let it hit 22 litres and see whats the mileage for full tank

 

i know it may not be accurate after all. My intention is just to know roughly the FC for bike

 

 

Hey! Im using the same method too. Crossing the previous limit to find the max tank capacity mileage. But its hard to keep it below 150km/h. I used this on previous bikes and sometimes ended up stranded!! :giddy:

 

But the point is, with all this fancy electronics on the bike, why are we still doing all this manually???? :gun: :gun:

Most people go through life following the crowd.

 

Others think for themselves.

 

They go their own way.

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Hey! Im using the same method too. Crossing the previous limit to find the max tank capacity mileage. But its hard to keep it below 150km/h. I used this on previous bikes and sometimes ended up stranded!! :giddy:

 

But the point is, with all this fancy electronics on the bike, why are we still doing all this manually???? :gun: :gun:

 

To me, i think electronics items are stressed under prolong heat and usage. They can be used as only as a rough guide. Reading can go off

 

If you wanna to push to the bike limit till it roll to stop, it would be better to standby 2-3 litres of petrol. If can get someone to follow you.

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i just change my bike grip from stock to BMW grip! Shiok ah!!! better.

 

Stock - does not give the grip hold and security as the thickness is very thin. the hand has to grip more in order to 'feel' it.

 

BMW - The thickness is perfect for my hand. I do not have to grip so tight. Hand not so pain after going half cluth control for some time.

 

$35 include installation!

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i just change my bike grip from stock to BMW grip! Shiok ah!!! better.

 

Stock - does not give the grip hold and security as the thickness is very thin. the hand has to grip more in order to 'feel' it.

 

BMW - The thickness is perfect for my hand. I do not have to grip so tight. Hand not so pain after going half cluth control for some time.

 

$35 include installation!

 

Hi..mind telling where u get the BMW grips from? and which shop that u do it with?

i'm oso thinking of switching these grips coz i heard the BMW grips are way better so as not to strain ur hands.

http://i3.squidoocdn.com/resize/squidoo_images/-1/draft_lens5271672module39663012photo_12448116942008-BMW-R1200GS-Adventureb-small.jpg

 

What's an ADVENTURE??

EVERYTHING!!

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To me, i think electronics items are stressed under prolong heat and usage. They can be used as only as a rough guide. Reading can go off

 

If you wanna to push to the bike limit till it roll to stop, it would be better to standby 2-3 litres of petrol. If can get someone to follow you.

 

yoz... nice meeting you on friday!!!

:D :thumb:

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