Riding the Himalaya's Razorback on the Enfield 350 Thunderbird (Aug 2007)

[FB666Y]

It was almost not to be. Though I felt a bit off, the opportunity was too good to miss - I had a track session in Pasir Gudang early National Day and by afternoon I had a fever of 39degress. The doctor was not too enthusiastic - he took a sample of my blood to check for dengue, as he put it.

 

But the medicine had me sorted out, and by the time I had to take the plane the fever had gone down, and with a sense of trepidation that I might have dengue, I was on the plane and deposited into a balmy Delhi in about 6 hours.

 

Almost a year in the planning, this trip was promising to be quite a ride: A 900+ kilometres trip into Leh from Manali, through the Himalayas and some of the highest mountain passes in the world; thereon to Srinagar from Leh.

 

In Delhi I managed to snag an Enfield Thunderbird, a 350cc four stroke in Karol Bagh - a place choked with bikes and spares:

 

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Karol Bagh

 

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Karol Bagh

 

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Karol Bagh

 

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Identity Crisis

 

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The Thunderbird

[FB666Y]

The First Leg: Delhi - Shimla

The day started well, the rental shop gave me a ride out of town. Delhi is not a place you want to do much riding. It's a chaotic mess, more bumper car than proper driving. There are no rules when driving in India - it makes for very hectic and dangerous driving.

 

We rode for about 150km through sunshine before the wheather turned vicious: the rain started lashing down pretty good. It was crazy for a while - riding two up and trying to keep the bike upright through ankle deep waters that were churning round street corners and there was the Thunderbird, splonking through large potholes. The rain was so bad even the cows were off the streets and standing under awning giving us looks as we passed.

 

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The Delhi - Amritsar highway. Pretty smooth, most of it anyways

 

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At a gas station in Chandigarh. In case youre wondering what the plastic cans are for, theyre for the fuel I need to carry cause there arent that many gas stations on my route.

 

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A rare let up in the rain.

 

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A glimpse of Shimla

 

Unfortunately I didnt get the chance of take much pictures. The rain came on so suddenly I didnt even have the chance to put on my rain pants or rain covers. By the time we got to Shimla I was cold and freezing!

 

Some scenes from Shimla

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[FB666Y]

The Second Leg: Shimla - Manali

The day started miserably, holding on to the coattails of the previous day. We made our way out of Shimla in the drizzle, but the wheather improved the further into Himachal Pradesh we went.

 

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Narrow mountain roads - this was a constant: roads so narrow it was amazing how the Indians squeezed pass themselves.

 

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Mud

 

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More mud

 

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Tea stop - by now the sun was beginning to show itself

 

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Another constant - rockfalls

 

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184kilometres to Manali

 

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Coming out of Bilaspur

 

Everything cme undone a few kilometres outside of Bilaspur - mudslides had made the road impassable. A long queue of cars, trucks and buses stood aimless around, waiting for the heavy cranes to restore sanity. Riding a bike does have advantages: most bikers were having a go at the mudslide. I managed halfway through the first slide, halfway through the second one before I bogged down in squelching mud halfway up t my knees. Bummer.

 

Somehow I madeit through with the help of a bunch of locals who lifted the bike over the worst of the mudslide. I was thinking was out of the woods and Manali was still a good possibility. Boy was I ever wrong: there was an even bigger mudslide ahead - the path took the bike down the road till at a point where all the bikers had to gun the bike over a 2 metre hedge. By then the cranes were there and laid a steep 70 degree muddle slope. The Thunderbird made it through, barely, with a dozen hands grabbing the bike to ease it over.

 

The bike was caked with mud, my rain covers were gone, sucked in by the mud, my shoes were more brown than black, but somehow I was out on the other side. Now all I had was about 5 kilometres of backed up traffic to navigate. Abreast the trucks werent giving much space - did I mention the entire road clung along the side of a mountain, and I had to thread the Thunderbird along the edge - trucks on my right and a sheer cliff edge to the left. At a point I even had to give that meagre space up for an elephant (you heard right) that was lumbering up.

 

Incredible India!

[FB666Y]

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Trying to get to the front

 

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Traffic backed up

 

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That not the mudslide

 

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This is the mudslide

 

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Well and truly stuck

 

It was somewhat of a pity I didnt take too many pictures - wished I did. But man, I was way too busy getting myself out that mud.

[ganman]

Fantastic Rides you have here... Manali to Leh is a popular biking route for riding especially for bicycle touring.

 

Anyway great pictures again.

[FB666Y]

The Second Leg Continued: Mandi - Manali

By the time I was sorted out it was pushing 5 in the afternoon and I was bushed. We decided to stay in the nearest town, Mandi, and carry on to Manali the next day. Come morning we were out in the sunshine and we had a comfortable ride to Manali.

 

Some pictures from the Kulu Valley ride:

 

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[FB666Y]

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[FB666Y]

Some shots from Manali:

Im not doing Manali much justice with these few pictures - its actually a very pretty place in beautiful alpine setting:

 

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[FB666Y]

More to come - most probably tomorrow.

I had to sift through more than a thousand pictures!

[paithorn]

YOU are the MAN!!!

[shoei_com]

, u r powerful...... :thumb:

 

 

More to come - most probably tomorrow.

I had to sift through more than a thousand pictures!

[YZFx]

thumbs up!!!!!

[FB666Y]

The Third Leg: Manali - Jispa - Sarchu - Leh

The next morning we started out at 7am, hoping to beat the crowd. The Thunderbird barged its way past many trucks, slipped and slid on the sharp slopes up to the first pass: Rohtang Pass.

 

The roads were atrocious - correction, there wasnt much of a road - mud mixed with stones both small and large make for a very slippery ascent. By the time we got up, there were patches of blue in the sky.

 

As we got higher a vulture swopped out of the morning mist - there was a calf on the mountain that was on its last breath.

 

Manali to Leh was taken in small steps, firstly to enjoy the scenery and secondly to aclimatise to the high altitudes. Due to some Indian National Day celebration we couldnt find a place to stay in Keylong, a smallish town. Instead we had to settle for Jispa, a small village with a hotel, a further 30km from Keylong. Even though we did about 130km on the first day they felt like a thousand kilometres - the roads were aweful, the 20km from Keylong to Jispa was basically rocks. The bike vibrated so much through those rocks the fuel cap came undone and flew off - as far as I knew its still somewhere along the road. I had to use the hotel's bathing cap and a rubber band to keep the fuel from evaporating!

 

However despite that the scenery was awesome, huge mountains sprang up around every bend, each one more larger than the last. You can see huge waterfalls from the melting snow, and most mountains peaks were snow capped. The country was rugged and amazing.

 

Now the pics:

 

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Out of Manali, early morning and cold

 

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Almost the top of Rohtang Pass

 

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Couple of coffeeshops there

 

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A vulture drying out its wings and giving us the stare as we pass by

 

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Top of Rohtang Pass

 

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A dhaba, or coffeshop on the other side of the pass. The two of us had aloo prathas and tea for 50 Rupees or $2

[FB666Y]

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Tandi gas station - no more for the next 360km till Leh

 

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Another water hazard - there are numerous streams you will have to cross on this leg

 

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The little village of Jispa

 

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Our hotel, nestled among hulking snow capped mountains and the Beas River

 

The rest will have to wait till tomorrow

[adrianslacker]

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at the dog!

 

seriously man, you should compile all your trips and publish a book, then have a TV series on your next trip. Singapore's version of "long way round"

[YZFx]

ofcourse he can... he is the man that i salute to!!!!!!!!!! i mean, serious, he is an adventurious and friendly man.. great guy

[Xtr33m3]

It was almost not to be. Though I felt a bit off, the opportunity was too good to miss - I had a track session in Pasir Gudang early National Day and by afternoon I had a fever of 39degress. The doctor was not too enthusiastic - he took a sample of my blood to check for dengue, as he put it.

 

But the medicine had me sorted out, and by the time I had to take the plane the fever had gone down, and with a sense of trepidation that I might have dengue, I was on the plane and deposited into a balmy Delhi in about 6 hours.

 

Its amazing that u recovered from the virus so quickly. I had what I taught was dengue on week following Nat Day (same drill - 38 deg fever, shivers, headache, body ache, blood test) - took me a week to recover but it was OK one day and then fever again the next - the last side effect was body rashes. Till today still no clue what was the cause of my fever- and it was not dengue. Guess it helps to get away from it all on the Enfield

[FB666Y]

The Third Leg (Continued): Manali - Jispa - Sarchu - Leh

The day was clear and bright and sunny - in fact we didnt have any trouble with the wheather untill we returned to Delhi. Everyday was gloriously bright, more so for people from the tropics because the wind was very cold. Standing in the shade was an easy way to start shivering, we spent as much time in the sun as possible, and might have gotten a few shades of brown because of it.

 

We had an easy (if there's such a thing) ride of 80ish kilometres to Sarchu where we had a tent waiting for us. We rode through gorgeous scenery again and came up Zing Zing Bar (4287metres) - with a name like that I expected something more than just a couple of shacks! After Zing Zing Bar it was uphill to Baralacha La (5029metres). The Thunderbird, like its occupants was panting by the time we were up. The headaches which started in Jispa were pounding here, the situation somewhat compounded by the bad roads - our brains were rattling in the helmets.

 

From the top it was mostly downhill through bad roads to Sarchu and the tents.

 

The tents are pretty basic - just beds with thick blankets. Its pretty awefully cold in Sarchu, youre looking at 6 or 7 degrees celsius. The wind swoop down the valley (its a pretty high valley mind you - at 3.8km above sea level) in a steady howling stream. There's absolutely nothing to do in Sarchu except maybe tend to your headache and look at the raw vistas that stretch out before you. I will not even go into the pretty basic toilet facilities - taking a dump in a small tent in a toilet bowl that's propped up by slabs of rock while the freezing wind ruffles and howls around the tent can be very exciting - enough said.

 

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More from around Jispa

 

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The scenery was food for the eyes

 

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More streams fed by snow melting high up in the mountains

 

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I wont say bad roads!

 

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Zing Zing Bar arounds

 

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Zing Zing Bar arounds

 

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Zing Zing Bar arounds

 

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Zing Zing Bar arounds

 

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Baralacha La - 5029metres. I just stood up and took a a couple of pics.

 

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Baralacha La - 5029metres. We stayed maybe about 20 seconds before we moved on!

 

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Dhabas - bloody in the middle of nowhere, but the tea was very good!

 

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[FB666Y]

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Finally at Sarchu.

 

Pictures from around Sarchu:

 

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[Nicholai]

Nice views and all, man. Only the 2 of you went for the trip? How long and, approximately, how much did you stay and spend during your trip there? You went there on a package tour?

[FB666Y]

The Third Leg (Continued): Manali - Jispa - Sarchu - Leh

The final day on the Leh ride. We got up early after a restless night - I was up every hour wondering how long I had before daybreak. We were off by 7am and boy it was bloody cold in the shadows of the mountains.

 

First up were the Gata Loops, a collection of bends that resemble a long twisted noodle. That got us up to the first pass of the day: Nakee La at 4.7km. Next up was Lachulung La at 5.06km. From there it was mostly bumpy rocks till Pang, a tent town. From Pang it was onwards to the Moores Plains which are situated in a plateau at 4.6km above sea level. You might otherwise considering how flat the terrain is and how the mountain sprout out on both side of the plateau like tooths.

 

The Moores Plain was pretty bad even though I heard otherwise. There were roadworks going on, and sections of the road was 2 foot deep sand. The Thunderbird spent some time trying to twist upon itself. It also blew a fuse here - for a while there it was panic station as I was trying to figure out what was wrong with the bike. I didnt fancy getting stuck in the middle of nowhere!

 

After Moores it was upwards again to Tanglang La at 5.35km. Did I say there are no roads, just rocks - big rocks! The views at the top were impressive. Then it was downhill, shuddering all the way to Leh where the roads improved.

 

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Gata Loops

 

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Gata Loops

 

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Gata Loops

 

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At the top - Nakee La

 

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Traffic Jam. The place a couple of large rocks under the front wheel of the army truck

 

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That lifted the army truck and provided that couple of inch for the tanker to scrap metallicly through

 

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Approaching Pang

 

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Pang

 

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Moores Plains - doesnt look like its more than 4km above sea level

 

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Moores Plains

 

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Moores Plains

[FB666Y]

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Tanglang La

 

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Tanglang La

 

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Ladakh and getting closer to Leh

 

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Just outside of Leh

 

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Finally in the guest house in Leh

 

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Guest house in Leh

[FB666Y]

Some pictures from around Leh:

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh01.jpg

the twisty back alleys of Leh

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh02.jpg

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh03.jpg

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh04.jpg

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh05.jpg

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh06.jpg

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh07.jpg

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh08.jpg

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh09.jpg

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh10.jpg

[FB666Y]

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh11.jpg

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh12.jpg

the view from our guesthouse

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh13.jpg

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh14.jpg

Guy's Kawasaki broke down in Pang - about 150km from Leh

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh15.jpg

Its amazing what you can put on the top of a bus!

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh16.jpg

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh17.jpg

View from Shanti Stupa at dusk

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh18.jpg

View from Shanti Stupa at dusk

 

http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m308/FB666Y/indialeh19.jpg

Shanti Stupa

[JamesPorn1]

amazing ride