=== Hougang ===

[ProFatSir]

Still so silent?no people?

[shunoski]

Whole hg only passioners?

[Frostb3ar]

waaaaaa......... long time never come here liao.... so ulu liao hahahha .....

 

anyway is it school holiday liao? how come got so many people so kong sian to go round slashing other people one? hmmm makes me think what i was doing when i was 20

[xXxRatedxXx]

waaaaaa......... long time never come here liao.... so ulu liao hahahha .....

 

anyway is it school holiday liao? how come got so many people so kong sian to go round slashing other people one? hmmm makes me think what i was doing when i was 20

 

u went around slashing people too?

[xXxRatedxXx]

waaaaaa......... long time never come here liao.... so ulu liao hahahha .....

 

anyway is it school holiday liao? how come got so many people so kong sian to go round slashing other people one? hmmm makes me think what i was doing when i was 20

 

u went around slashing people too?

[SparkerS1]

PREPARING TO RIDE

1. Wear the right gear.

 

2. Become familiar with the motorcycle.

 

3. Check the motorcycle equipment.

 

4. Be a responsible rider.

 

KNOW YOUR MOTORCYCLE

• Read the owner’s manual first.

•Start with the right motorcycle foryou.

•Be familiar with the motorcycle controls.

•Check the motorcycle before every ride.

•Keep it in safe riding condition between rides.

•Avoid add-ons and modificationsthat make your motorcycle harder to handle.

 

RIDE WITHIN YOUR ABILITIES

- “Following too closely” could be a factor in crashes involving motorcyclists.

- Speeding up to lose someone following too closely only ends up with someone tailgating you at a higher speed.

- Good experienced riders remain aware of what is going on around them.

- The best way to help others see your motorcycle is to keep the headlight on — at all times

 

GROUP RIDING

- Do it in a way that promotes safety and doesn’t interfere with the flow of traffic.

- Place inexperienced riders just behind the leader. That way the more experienced riders can watch them from the back.

- Plan frequent stops on long rides.

- Maintain close ranks but at the same time keep a safe distance to allow each rider in the group time and space to react to hazards.

- Never ride directly alongside another rider.There is no place to go if you have to avoid a car or something on theroad. To talk, wait until you are both stopped.

- Staggered Formation — This is the best way to keep ranks close yet maintain an adequate space.

[xXxRatedxXx]

Useful info neo...

 

so you went on any interesting ride recently?

 

PREPARING TO RIDE

1. Wear the right gear.

 

2. Become familiar with the motorcycle.

 

3. Check the motorcycle equipment.

 

4. Be a responsible rider.

 

KNOW YOUR MOTORCYCLE

• Read the owner’s manual first.

•Start with the right motorcycle foryou.

•Be familiar with the motorcycle controls.

•Check the motorcycle before every ride.

•Keep it in safe riding condition between rides.

•Avoid add-ons and modificationsthat make your motorcycle harder to handle.

 

RIDE WITHIN YOUR ABILITIES

- “Following too closely” could be a factor in crashes involving motorcyclists.

- Speeding up to lose someone following too closely only ends up with someone tailgating you at a higher speed.

- Good experienced riders remain aware of what is going on around them.

- The best way to help others see your motorcycle is to keep the headlight on — at all times

 

GROUP RIDING

- Do it in a way that promotes safety and doesn’t interfere with the flow of traffic.

- Place inexperienced riders just behind the leader. That way the more experienced riders can watch them from the back.

- Plan frequent stops on long rides.

- Maintain close ranks but at the same time keep a safe distance to allow each rider in the group time and space to react to hazards.

- Never ride directly alongside another rider.There is no place to go if you have to avoid a car or something on theroad. To talk, wait until you are both stopped.

- Staggered Formation — This is the best way to keep ranks close yet maintain an adequate space.

[SparkerS1]

Information/MaintenanceRXZ Info

Petrol Tank Capacity- 13 litres

Dry Weight- 106KG

Battery- 12V 35W/30W

 

 

NGK B8ES/BR8ES/BR9ES

Spark Plug can last at least 10000km

2T engine oil, buy what u can afford, as long bike got 2T can already.

 

Tire Pressure- Front 185kPa Rear 215kPa (For 18" spoke Rims) Distance better

 

Front 200kpa Rear 225kpa (For 17" alloy sport Rims) Cornering better

 

****tire pressure varies depending on riding condition****no right or wrong

 

Top up when necessary or change EO if EO diluted.

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Kawasaki KR150 Recommendations/Maintenance

 

Spark Plug: NGK B8ES/BR8ES/BR9ES, BR8EIX (Iridium)/Denso IW24 (Iridium)

Spark Plug can last at least 10000km

 

Tires:

TT900GP gd for distance, BT39 gd for cornering, TT900 not so lasting as TT900GP.

 

usually ppl put TT900 90/80 front, 90/80 rear for pick up.

110/70 or 120/80 rear for stability.

 

BT39 ppl usually put 90/80 front, 90/80 rear for pick up.

110/70 rear for better cornering. use 120/80 corner even more power.

 

Pilot sporty front 90/80, rear 100/80, dry weather very gd, wet weather when lane splitting abit unstable.

Wears off super fast; I use one month need to change

Proven by phase_one & me.

 

____________________________

Standard Tire Pressure

front 210, rear 225.

can + up to 30kpa or - to 10kpa

____________________________

 

KR150 is a cheap and good transportation bike.

Can use any 2T, fully syn to be preferred or up to ur budget.

 

Basic servicing like service carburetor every 6 months n yearly full servicing can keep the bike in gd running condition. Remember to change coolant when doing full servicing.

one whole yr nv service bike also can but if u got spare cash then go for my recommended servicing.

 

Change spark plug when faulty, spark plug can last at least 10000km.

Change EO at least once every 6 months or when the oil indicator is low.

Use gear oil better still, can last longer:cool:

Change chain and sprocket at least once a year, can last more than a year if u clean and lube your chain periodically.

 

Other basic maintenance can be done periodically.

 

***************************************************

 

What i have done on my Kawasaki KR150:

 

- HEL Brake Hose (front and Rear)

- Bubble screen

- Battlax BT39SS Tires (F: 90/80, R: 120/80)

- DID heavy Duty Gold Chain

- Aluminum Chain Guard

- Dynamyx Volt Meter + holder

- Hazard Light

- SP signal light

- Stebel Magnum Horn

- NGK Iridrium Spark Plug

- Grounding Wires

- Stomach Emptied

- Rim stickers

- LED tail light

- Meter LEDs

- Playlife grip

- Radiator n coolant reserve using Engine ICE

- Japan Wheel Bearings

- Tank Pad and Fuel Cap pad

- Swing Arm Spools

- Fuel Consumption: 28.8 km/L

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Information/Maintenance for Honda CB400 Superfour REVO

 

Bike Servicing/Maintenance

Running in: 500km or hard-break in

Spark Plug: CR8EH-9(NGK)(Normal spark plug can last 10,000km, Iridium 20,000km)

Engine Oil: Semi-syn change every 3000km

Fully-syn change every 5000km

(Can + up to 1000km)

Oil Filter: Change every 3-4 EO change

Air Filter: Service once a year or every 40,000km

(Use K&N for cost saving)

Coolant: Flush at least once a year

(Best use Engine ICE due the nature of the excessive heat produced)

Brake Hose: Bleed every 14-18 months

Fork Oil: Change every 2 years or 20000km

Tire Pressure: Front 225kpa, Rear 250kpa (without pillon)

 

VTEC:

When does Vtec opens?

6300 RPM for first 5 gear and 6750 RPM for the last gear.

 

My Fuel Consumption now: 20km/L(Half of the time open Vtec)

22km/L(20% of the time open Vtec)

 

 

What I have done on my Honda Super4 CB400 NC42:

 

- Crash Bar/Engine Guard

- Fuel Cap Pad

- Race Shield

- Power Abuser 2

- Power Abuser Ignite

- Grounding Wired

- HEL Brake Hose (Front & Rear)

- Predator Face Mask

- Rim Sticker

- Belly Pan/ Lower Cowling

- Rear Hugger/ Rear Fender

- Front Fork Slider

- Radiator & Coolant Reserve using Engine ICE

- NGK Iridium Spark Plug

- K&N Air Filter

- Armed with Scropio 1 way Alarm

- Stebel Magnum Horn

- Fork Brace

- GPR Endcan

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

INFORMATION/MAINTENANCE OF SUZUKI DR-Z400SM

 

Engine 4-stroke, DOHC

Bore x Stroke 3.54 x 2.46 in. (90 x 62.6 mm)

Compression Ratio 11.3:1

Fuel System Mikuni BSR36, single

Cooling Liquid

Ignition Electronic, CDI

Lubrication Dry sump

DIMENSIONS

Length 87.6 in. (2,225 mm)

Width 33.7 in. (855 mm)

Height 47.2 in. (1,200 mm)

Weight 321 lbs. (146 kg)

Ground Clearance 10.2 in. (260 mm)

Wheelbase 57.5 in. (1,460 mm)

Fuel Capacity 10 litres including reserve

Seat Height 35 in. (890 mm)

Transmission 5-speed constant mesh

Final Drive RK520KZO, 110 links

Suspension Front: Inverted telescopic, coil spring, oil damped

Rear: Link type, coil spring, oil damped

Brakes Front & Rear: Disc

Tires Front: 120/70 R17 M/C 58H tube type

Rear: 140/70 R17 M/C 66H tube type

 

The Suzuki DR-Z400 is a dual purpose motorcycle. It is powered by a single-cylinder, 398 cc four-stroke engine. Its reliability, low price and decent performance have made it a popular dual-sport choice around the world.

Mix in street-legal capabilities and unmatched handling. For exceptional performance on the street, the DR-Z400SM offers remarkably smooth performance, along with a rush of torque across the powerband. For crisp handling, it features a lightweight, compact design, complemented by advanced suspension front and rear, including an RM250-derived inverted fork

 

The Suzuki DR-Z400SM is an excellent bike for beginners / commuters - cheap to run and maintain, easy to drive in town

(The above is extracted from sources from the internet)

Can go to thumpertalk.com or supermoto.sg for more related information, deals and tips

 

 

 

What is neccessary to be done or fixed on a stock DRZ400SM:

MCCT- Manual Cam Chain Tensioner where u can manually adjust the cam chain instead of the OEM ACCT (Automatic cam chain tensioner)

Factory automatic adjusters can back out when the throttle is suddenly closed at higher rpms.

This allows the cams to momentarily go out of time and can result in bent valves and/or serious engine damage!

Hydraulic tensioners have a tendency to put too much tension on the chain guide under high rpm/high oil pressure conditions, resulting in premature cam chain wear.

Installation of a Manual Cam Chain Tensioner will allow you to maintain the proper, constant cam chain tension necessary for reliable hi-performance riding and it will not backout.

 

PAIR System- If u have a aftermarket exhaust fixed, best to remove the PAIR system, or else will cause popping and unsteady deceleration, removing it won't give more power, may give a little better response and will give better smoothness.

 

Stainless Steel Brake Hose- Enhance braking feel.

Rubber hoses or mild steel fittings are cheap but we all know how rubber hose bulges under pressure, allows brake fluid to absorb water vapour from the atmosphere and that mild steel fittings rust.

 

BRAKING Disc- More friction coefficient, Better resistance to the heat, More initial braking power, More feeling on the lever, Better handling, Less weight, Thicker than stock disc.

 

UNABIKER Radiator Guard- Provide awesome side impact protection and help prevent radiator fold-back during a crash.

 

Axle Sliders- Protects front fork and rear swing-arm.

 

SME Rear Axle Slider Block- Additional protection with concurrence with the axle sliders, protects swing-arm, rear disc, sprocket.

 

ThumperTalk Skid Plate- Extra protection specially if for off-road purposes.

 

3X3 Air Box Mod- De-restrict the air flow and better performance with an aftermarket Air Filter. Remember to re-jet the stock carburetor to match the A/F ratio.

 

CFC Case Shields- Extra protection for Ignition and clutch covers.

The stock magnesium DRZ engine cases are both thin and brittle.

As a result, they are very vulnerable to damage (cracks & impact punctures) from the bike's shift/brake lever and rocks when the bike falls.

 

Handguards- Prevent clutch and brake levers from breakage/bent during a drop or crash.

 

Exhaust Slider- APA Muffler Slider is made from a specially formulated thick, tough, plastic material that resists wear and helps protect your muffler in the event of a crash, much like a frame slider does.

The slider clamps on securely and the material has built in lubrication molecules that let them slide and not grip the pavement like a soft piece of rubber would.

Road Racers are enjoying the benefits of Muffler Slider protection when they fall off. It can not easily slide off.

 

Remove the kickstand safety switch. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.

If the kickstand is down the bike will not start.

On jumps and bumps the kickstand will bounce around momentarily killing your engine.

Thus I remove kickstand sensor.

 

Remove the clutch safety switch. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.

If the clutch isn't pulled in, it will not start.

This just one more electronic switch to break from nowhere, so I remove this safety device.

 

 

 

What I have done on my Suzuki DRZ400SM:(DO THESE AT YOUR OWN RISK)

PERFORMANCE

- Leo Vince Endcan

- Arrow Header

- Racewerk Hard Break In

- Clutch safety switch removed

- Side-stand safety switch removed

- Pair System removed

- Helmet Lock removed

- 3X3 Air Box Mod with mesh removed

- K&N Air Filter

- Re-jetted Mikuni BSR36 carb

- MCCT

 

PROTECTIONS

- Lightspeed carbon parts(Frame Guard, Front sprocket cover)

- Motivation Slider (Front & Rear)

- CFC Case Shields

- UNABIKER Radiator Guard

- Radiator Mesh

- APA Exhaust Slider

- SME Rear Axle Slider Block

- Motivation Bar-end Sliders

- ThumperTalk Skid Plate

 

ACCESSORIES

- EASTON 35mm Handlerbar with Clamp & Hardware

- HEL Brake Hose (Front & Rear)

- BRAKING Brake Pads

- BRAKING 320mm SK Front Disc

- BRAKING OEM Caliper Bracket for 320mm Disc

- BRAKING Rear Disc

- DRC Edge-2 LED Tail Light

- DRC Signal Light

- Acerbis Front Fender

- Blue Tinted Mirror

- R1 Throttle Tube

- PLaylife Grips

- ZETA Engine Oil Dipstick

- Zeta Unbreakable Clutch & Brake Lever

- Sunline Gear Shifter

- Supersporx Sprocket

- DID X-ring chain

- Pirelli DIABLO tires

- Juzzwheel Customised Decal

- Osram Nightbreaker H4 Headlight Bulb

- Rim sticker

- Lizard Skin

- New Slim IU unit

 

SERVICING

- NGK Iridium Spark Plug CR8-EIX

- Motul 300V Factoryline 4T Engine Oil

- OWS 3 in 1 Treatment

- Radiator & Coolant Reserve using Engine ICE

- Special Fuel Additives Used

 

- Latest Fuel Consumption: 25 km/L

 

 

 

Bike Servicing/Maintenance

Basic servicing like service carburetor every 6 months and yearly servicing can keep the bike in good running condition.

Engine Oil: Semi-syn change every 2000km

Fully-syn change every 4000km

(Can + up to 1000km for fully/semi syn)

Oil Filter: Change every 2-3 EO change

Air Filter: Service once a year or every 20,000km

Coolant: Flush at least once a year

Brake Hose: Bleed every 14-18 months

Fork Oil: Change every 2 years or 20000km

Change spark plug when faulty, spark plug can last at least 10000km.

Change chain and sprocket at least once a year, can last more than a year if u clean and lube your chain periodically.

 

Other basic maintenance can be done periodically.

 

 

 

Information/Maintenance for Suzuki GSXR

Maintenance is same as for Honda Super4 and Suzuki DRZ400, please refer to above servicing intervals.

 

What I have done on my Suzuki GSXR600:(DO THESE AT YOUR OWN RISK)

PERFORMANCE:

- Hard Break In Done by Racewerk

- HEL Brake Hose (Front & Rear)

- Brembo RCS19 Master Pump with Tyga Brake Reservoir

- CRG Clutch Lever Set

- Yoshimura Dual Tip Slip on

- BMC Air Filter

- Fast Throttle Clip

- Supersprox 525 F16R45

- Michelin Power Pure

- Bridgeport Tire Valve

 

PROTECTION:

- APA Exhaust Slider

- Motivation Bar-end Sliders

- Motivation Frame Sliders ; Non-cut Version

- Motivation Front/Rear Axle Sliders

- Motivation Bobbins

- GBracing Engine Covers; 3 pieces

- Raceshield Full Body Kit by Juzzwheels

 

ACCESSORIES:

- MRA Smoke DoubleBubble Windscreen

- GSXR Fender Eliminator

- Juzzwheelz Reflective Designed Rim Sticker

- Lizard Skin

- Seng Kwang IU Bracket

- Philip H11 Power2Night

- White Position Light

- HELLA Twin Disc Horn

- Slim IU Unit

 

SERVICING

- Denso Iridium Spark Plug IU27

- Motul 300V Factoryline 4T Engine Oil

- K&N Oil Filter

- OWS 3 in 1 Treatment

- Radiator & Coolant Reserve using Engine ICE

- Special Fuel Additives Used

 

- Latest Fuel Consumption: 16 km/L

 

 

*************************************************************

Please do not quote me or argue about my servicing intervals.

You might have different servicing intervals due to different riding conditions, different riding techiques or track racing.

This is a just a guide for newbies.

[SparkerS1]

Tips for a Safe Drive/Ride

 

Long Distance Travel

- Get a good night's sleep before leaving

 

- Avoid driving/riding for long periods.

Get a co-driver. Take breaks every 2 hours.

 

- All rear-seat passengers are required by Malaysia traffic laws to belt up.

 

 

Driving in heavy rain

- Turn on your headlights and wipers.

 

- Double your normal following distance.

Longer braking distances are required on slippery roads.

 

- Avoid hard braking to prevent loss of vehicle control. Etc fishtail or rear wheel skid.

 

- Crosswinds may cause your vehicle to veer off course. Look out for warning signs at danger spots and slow down.

 

 

Night Driving/Riding

- Avoid looking directly at oncoming headlights to avoid being blinded.

 

- Dip your headlights to avoid blinding oncoming vehicles.

 

- Do not speed, drive/ride to your own limit.

Longer reaction time is needed because of poorer visibilty at night.

 

- Flash your high beam when driving/riding around blind corners to notify oncoming motorists of your presence.

 

- Overtake only when you are on a straight road.

[swiftee]

gr8 trip fellas!

[SparkerS1]

yea, first post in 2011, Happy New Year cheers everyone

[bernardk]

yea, first post in 2011, Happy New Year cheers everyone

 

Like that also can Hahahha... happy 2011 bro.

[SparkerS1]

yea, keep the thread going!!!!!!!!!

[bernardk]

yea, keep the thread going!!!!!!!!!

 

hee hee hee nowadays ppl dun join bike forum liao. Ppl join street gang Hahahaha...

[ProFatSir]

no..everyone at facebook!

[redlavita]

Happy New Year to all Houganger !

[SparkerS1]

Happy Chinese New Year to SBF Hougang

[bernardk]

Happy New Year to all Houganger !

 

Happy Chinese New Year to SBF Hougang

 

Happy Chinese New Year to you all. Greetings from Punggol

[redlavita]

Happy 1st March to all Hougangers...

[AfterDark]

Hello..! La Kopi La Kopi... anyone?

[bernardk]

FWAH! you lost until where? Wahahahha how are you leh.

[AfterDark]

Haha... still here lah. Have I missed out a lot?

[bernardk]

Haha... still here lah. Have I missed out a lot?

 

nope you didnt miss alot. Now all stop becos of you. Hahahha.... you can join me at LC if you want next time. I will be there every wednesday from ard 9pm.

[AfterDark]

Where is LC??

[xXxRatedxXx]

wa bernard join st riders already ah?