[Group] SUZUKI GSR 400/600

[Dark Lord]

I going to look 4 gloves dis end of mth if I yet to buy the first racing gloves in the garaga sale,anyone wanna join?

Wildcard,u muz follow ah...

:cheeky:

[WildCard]

Ok, I am in a dilema now. After calling RaceWerk to enquire about the hard run in method. They told me that it cost less than $100 for hard run in and it will take roughly 2 hours only to complete the entire hard run in....

 

Many Thanks,

Cyrix

 

Did mine the hard way. On the street.

First 37km, did the method recomended by Motoman in the website given.

The 9 throttle runs.

Changed oil & filter upon completion (mineral).

0-600km, keep below 7000 RPM but accelerate between the RPM limits (sort of accelerate to 7000 then engine brake back to 2000 and then repeat again). Best to use normal roads with little traffic. I no choice took expressway but did the method required. At 600km, change oil + filter (mineral).

600-1200km, keep below 10500 RPM. Same again, accelerate and decelerate as much as possible. It was at this time I went for a supper blast to Kulai with some frens. Keep below 10000 but I was riding 150km/h at only 9000 RPM on 5th gear. At 1200km, change oil + filter (mineral).

1200 - 1800 km, keep below 12000 RPM. Same again, accelerate and decelerate. Use the full rev range allowed. At 1800 km, change oil + filter (mineral).

1800 - 2400 km, keep below 14000 RPM (essentially can full throttle but try not to hit above or maintain too long at 14000 RPM. Keep doing the accelerate and decelerate as much as possible.

 

My advice is while they have done the initial hard break-in for the first 37km, do a standard running-in period for your bike. Maintain the recommended RPM limit and change oil + filter regularly.

 

At 2400 km, change oil to your favorite synthetic and blast away.

The whole idea is to rev freely within the rev limit for the period of running-in and (VERY IMPORTANT:) LOAD THE ENGINE. You can't load the engine by riding at low speeds like Driving Miss Daisy.

Why load the engine? Motoman says to allow the piston ring to seat itself and seal in correctly. Guess what? Suzuki owner manuals mentions a similar thing, although in a less explicit manner.

A motorbike engine (cruisers excluded) is a hardy piece of engineering. Its meant to take a lot of abuse and needs to take a lot of abuse, in a S&M manner.

The only way it maintain optimal (not peak) efficiency is by riding it to its tolerances (not over, not over push it either), not by timidly riding it to 'save it'.

 

Which comes to my side-topic of 'maintaining low mileage'. Some have this impression that a bike less ridden and with low mileage must be in pristine condition, especially the engine.

Well, do consider that engine oil, amongst the many lubricants in an engine, have a working lifetime. That EO accumulates and retains acidity and other harmful combustion byproducts at the same rate between a bike used often and a bike used like once a week (that's why when a bike is winterized or kept in winter storage, fresh oil is poured in the bike, even into the spark-plug chambers).

Unless the owner is willing to pay for regular oil changes for a bike that barely sees 50km in a week (which I doubt they will), that bike is in a bit of trouble internally.

Do consider the logic that if a bike is used often and yet its in avery good running condition, it means that the owner must have taken very good care if it, rite? (very regular oil changes, parts serviced and replaced in time, etc).

Would you have a bike in very good running condtion with servicings done regularly or a bike that has low mileage but BIG question mark on condition, albeit by outlook?

 

Back to topic, why so many oil changes? Simple. The bike has just arrived from factory.

It has only been started and tested twice, maybe 3 times. The internal parts are still fresh from the milling machines. Parts that touch each other (shafts, gears, etc). Because optimal clearances have not been established between such virgin parts, there will be some initial grinding between these parts and metal flakes and grindings will be generated. Do you want these flakes to float around in your engine and ending up into your transmission system?

Regular oil & filter changes in the first 2400 km is a very safe way to make sure the initial grindings and flakes get chucked out of the system.

Don't believe me? On the first and 2nd oil changes, try asking the shop to help cut your oil filter open. See what happens. Or take the try of old oil and bring in to sunlight. See if you can see metal glints in it.

 

Ultimately, its your choice: take a gamble and do hard run-in or play safe and do what everybody else does.

I took a gamble and personally, I feel mine paid off. Some, who have tested my bike, have commented I have a crispier bike sound as well as a free-accelerating engine while it was still on stock exhaust.

 

2nd point to consider:

While I was still running in, Racewerks told me I shouldn't have done a hard break-in. Was not good for the bike.

But now they help do a hard break-in service.

I love shops with open minds. Open-minds means innovation.

 

I do hard run-in but using on the street method.... run-in myself. All my previous bikes i have been using soft run-in, so i wanna c the different thus my gsr i do the hard run-in....

 

Reading food:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

So far when i change EO, the oil is good.... i shall monitor it for atleast 4 years... if the bike last tht long.... now it still too early to announce anything good or bad

 

100K km, bro.

We do full overhaul and see how the piston look like,

I'm on 50K+. 2 more years to go.

Time to prove with physical evidence.

[devil-suzy]

since im not working...

n slacking...

so i was surfing youtube...

juz tot i would share wat i found wif u guys...

 

 

[WildCard]

nah...

i not keen to play for liverFOOL leh...

i wanna be fighting for championship...

n i dun like to always be rotated... for no good reason...

haha...

plus their board of directors dun give me e security...

haha...

 

 

Chelski just made an unsuccesful 40 million pounds bid for Torres.

They damn well better find their own star striker or make a sincere 60-80 million pounds offer.

[IvikaRazI]

Alamak!! Wildcard. You type compo too long . Blur already leh. Hehehhe...never intro your gloves to Dark Lord??? I'm Using A* SMX-2 Air Carbon....so far so good very comfy...pricewise near to $100. Not fully leather.

 

My last glove is RS-Taichi, High Armor...leather...very comfy. Pricewise around $130.

[WildCard]

Alamak!! Wildcard. You type compo too long . Blur already leh. Hehehhe...never intro your gloves to Dark Lord??? I'm Using A* SMX-2 Air Carbon....so far so good very comfy...pricewise near to $100. Not fully leather.

 

My last glove is RS-Taichi, High Armor...leather...very comfy. Pricewise around $130.

 

He tested oledi.

Ok la.

But now price gone up to $25.

I was thinking of suggesting the GPR real leather ones.

$35 at Chong Aik promotion.

 

since im not working...

n slacking...

so i was surfing youtube...

juz tot i would share wat i found wif u guys...

 

 

 

Seen this one.

One of SBFers here have the pic of the guy taking the corner with knees down and sparks flying.

[Dark Lord]

Alamak!! Wildcard. You type compo too long . Blur already leh. Hehehhe...never intro your gloves to Dark Lord??? I'm Using A* SMX-2 Air Carbon....so far so good very comfy...pricewise near to $100. Not fully leather.

 

My last glove is RS-Taichi, High Armor...leather...very comfy. Pricewise around $130.

 

I want sumthing lyk his ah bro,he recommend me GPR one oso wif knuckle protector..better quality too,yet to see how it looks lyk

[Dark Lord]

aik,post same timing kaper?

[WildCard]

I want sumthing lyk his ah bro,he recommend me GPR one oso wif knuckle protector..better quality too,yet to see how it looks lyk

 

This one:

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd298/chongaik_photos/PROMOGloves3.jpg

 

But dunno if still have offer price.

[Dark Lord]

Hmm the RB-340 looks tempting,if offer price still got confirm end of this mth grabbing one

[cyrix76]

Hey wildcard bro ... where did you get the gloves picture from ? I am also interested in getting one too after looking at the pictures. I thought gloves are at least $100 and above, but seeing the pricing above ... I am considering getting one myself.

 

Can you show me the address or pm me the address to this shop?

 

Many Thanks,

Cyrix

[WildCard]

Chong Aik.

They're an advertiser in SBF.

Look them up under advertising function.

[arzme]

100K km, bro.

We do full overhaul and see how the piston look like,

I'm on 50K+. 2 more years to go.

Time to prove with physical evidence.

with my current riding journey, i think i have to wait long long....

[skateboy]

Heavier load will means that the bike will have to work harder to move. Law of Physics. Harder means more fuel will have to be burnt to push the bike forward. That will in turn result in slightly higher FC.

 

I am open for designs as long as its comfy. My current one is very uncomfy thats why changing to one that is comfy.

heavier load? u everyday put 10kg of rice each in the 2 cases? or an even heavier load everyday? n everytime u bike is on the go, there is a pillion? if so, then of cos FC is higher.

 

then its time to bring ur palms to go shopping for gloves.

 

Not just load.

With rear or side boxes, you get increased wind resistance.

Increased wind resistance = more work by engine = more fuel burnt = higher FC.

resistance there is but not so significant when in low speed. the higher the speed, the higher the resistance. the lower the speed, the lower the resistance.

 

yup.

 

with my side boxes on i can only manage average 20km/l. but without my side boxes and relaxed riding (RPM not more than 5000, speed at about 80km/h on expressways, using engine braking more) i managed 23km/l.

 

amazing? i bet i can get more millege if i can convince my wife about the little black box that azhar has.

depends oso. i can get 20km/l to 23km/l with the topcase on the bike. considering the conditions of traffic n speed of travel. heavier traffic with slower speed or light traffic with higher speed, load of box, 1 set of raincoat with my working rig, sometimes abit of this n that.

[skateboy]

how long n how many times the bike takes to warm up per tank all contributes to the fc.

 

1st example using 300km as the mark. assuming distance to work place n home is 20km without any stop. every warm up is 5 minutes. travelling speed 100km/h. so lets calculate. 300/20 = 15. 15 times the bike need to start up n with 5 minutes of warm up is 75 minutes.

 

2nd example using 300km as the mark. assuming distance to work place n home is 40km without any stop. every warm up is 5 minutes. travelling speed 100km/h. so lets calculate. 300/40 = 7.5. so lets make it 8 times the bike need to start up n with 5 minutes of warm up is 40 minutes.

 

so a tank of 300km, both with the same warm up time n travelling speed. but the 2 bikes cover different mileage from home to work n work to home. 1st example spend more time warming up when the 2nd example spend more time on the road clocking the mileage. so end up, the 1st example will have a higher fc.

[WildCard]

how long n how many times the bike takes to warm up per tank all contributes to the fc.

 

1st example using 300km as the mark. assuming distance to work place n home is 20km without any stop. every warm up is 5 minutes. travelling speed 100km/h. so lets calculate. 300/20 = 15. 15 times the bike need to start up n with 5 minutes of warm up is 75 minutes.

 

2nd example using 300km as the mark. assuming distance to work place n home is 40km without any stop. every warm up is 5 minutes. travelling speed 100km/h. so lets calculate. 300/40 = 7.5. so lets make it 8 times the bike need to start up n with 5 minutes of warm up is 40 minutes.

 

so a tank of 300km, both with the same warm up time n travelling speed. but the 2 bikes cover different mileage from home to work n work to home. 1st example spend more time warming up when the 2nd example spend more time on the road clocking the mileage. so end up, the 1st example will have a higher fc.

 

 

Erm, dude,

That calculation won't work.

Your results are all skewered.

You're basing on a full tank of 300km and varying distance to destination.

If you look carefully, there is actually no difference in the amount of time between the guy who travels 40km a day to work and 20 km a day to work. It just that the guy who travels lesser has more distance (and conversely time) per tank.

If a guy works 20 days a month and travels 20km a day, he still warms up his bike 20 times a month for 5 minutes each (or rather 40 times because he has to warm up his bike on the return home, rite?). The guy who works 40 days a month and travels 20km a day, he still warms up his bike 20 times a month for 5 minutes each.

Conversely, the guy who works 40kms away should be given a double tank capacity, giving a range of 600km per tank. Then its more apparent there is no difference at all.

 

Want a fairer test?

 

Same distance of travel, same speed, same riding pattern. 1 bike warms up 5 minutes, the other warms up 10 minutes.

Simple.

Anyone care to try?

 

resistance there is but not so significant when in low speed. the higher the speed, the higher the resistance. the lower the speed, the lower the resistance.

How low?

Resistance is resistance. Its all in proportion.

What's your average travelling speed? 70, 80km/h?

That's enough for significant wind-resistance effects.

 

Don't believe?

Get a windshield on your bike.

Get to the speeds mentioned and try ducking behind the windshield.

See the diff.

 

Tried and test personally with the TLR.

 

depends oso. i can get 20km/l to 23km/l with the topcase on the bike. considering the conditions of traffic n speed of travel. heavier traffic with slower speed or light traffic with higher speed, load of box, 1 set of raincoat with my working rig, sometimes abit of this n that.

 

Topcase does not affect much as your body already blocks most of the wind before it reaches the top box.

Weight and contents of topcase are the only significant factor.

A way to test is by permanently ducking as you ride the bike.

 

Though tat will attract many a Revo's attention...

[WildCard]

oh, BTW,

innocenti, if you are reading this, I'm sorry.

Bad news confirmation.

The keys cannot be replicated via the ECU alone.

Means if you lost both keys, really end of the road.

You need at least a new ECU and maybe a new ignition set (if you cannot get sample of the old one).

I think compared to a new ECU, the $600 replacement set is more worth it.

 

Just confirmed this with Guan Hoe.

So guys, if you can, make extra copies and keep them safe.

[devil-suzy]

This one:

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd298/chongaik_photos/PROMOGloves3.jpg

 

But dunno if still have offer price.

 

i like e last one...

haha...

 

so who wanna go down n view e gloves???

[Dark Lord]

ME ME ME ME!!!!

But haf to wait till end of mth den can buy ah

[Guest motofreak]

i like e last one...

haha...

 

so who wanna go down n view e gloves???

 

Me 2. Prefer a short simple 1. Maybe got diff colour...

[geraki]

yo guys for those looking for gloves ..in fact i just bought one today alpinestars sp2 $150 long type ...for touring purpose...

[Dark Lord]

Me looking for normal riding type ah bro,hmm thnks 4 the info though...

Like the gloves?I've always love A*

[zeke uchiha]

Hi Guys,

 

I have a brand new magneto coil cover for sale for GSR 600..Selling at $120 including delivery..Am selling coz could'nt fit the GSR 400 as it is using plastic..Item still in good condition..

 

It is on the left side of the bike near the clutch placing..

Also i have a carbon fibre cover at the place where we keep our tools at the side panel for sale, still brand new and unused selling at $180.

 

Those who are keen can give me a call at 97689251 ZEKE as i'm not always around the comp to check ur enquiries.....sorry to barge in here guys...

[skateboy]

Erm, dude,

That calculation won't work.

Your results are all skewered.

You're basing on a full tank of 300km and varying distance to destination.

If you look carefully, there is actually no difference in the amount of time between the guy who travels 40km a day to work and 20 km a day to work. It just that the guy who travels lesser has more distance (and conversely time) per tank.

If a guy works 20 days a month and travels 20km a day, he still warms up his bike 20 times a month for 5 minutes each (or rather 40 times because he has to warm up his bike on the return home, rite?). The guy who works 40 days a month and travels 20km a day, he still warms up his bike 20 times a month for 5 minutes each.

Conversely, the guy who works 40kms away should be given a double tank capacity, giving a range of 600km per tank. Then its more apparent there is no difference at all.

 

Want a fairer test?

 

Same distance of travel, same speed, same riding pattern. 1 bike warms up 5 minutes, the other warms up 10 minutes.

Simple.

Anyone care to try?

 

base on wat u say, u r doing the calculation on a monthly basis.

 

lets put it this way:

GUY A work 20 days a month. distance to work is 20km.

GUY B work 20 days a month. distance to work is 40km.

 

so:

GUY A warm up the bike 40 times a month, 5 minutes for every warm up.

GUY B warm up the bike 40 times a month, 5 minutes for every warm up.

 

therefore:

GUY A spend 200 minutes to warm up the bike every month.

GUY B spend 200 minutes to warm up the bike every month.

 

is that wat u r trying to say?

 

 

if so, then i re-explain my theory.

base on wat i say, i'm doing the calculation on a per tank basis.

now we r talking about fuel consumption per tank. NOT fuel consumption per month.

 

lets put it this way:

- base on a full tank n a standard distance covered of 300km.

- given the distance to be travelled.

- the possible number of times needed to warm up base on the standard distance covered of 300km n the distance to be travelled.

- 5 minutes for every warm up.

- standard speed of 100km/h with no traffic obstruction.

 

so:

GUY A, distance to work is 20km. base on a full tank n a standard distance covered of 300km. 300 / 20 = 15.

 

GUY B, distance to work is 40km. base on a full tank n a standard distance covered of 300km. 300 / 40 = 7.5 (round off to 8).

 

so:

GUY A need to warm up the bike 15 times per tank.

GUY B need to warm up the bike 8 times per tank.

 

therefore:

GUY A spend 75 minutes to warm up the bike with reference to a full tank of petrol with a standard distance covered of 300km.

 

GUT B spend 40 minutes to warm up the bike with reference to a full tank of petrol with a standard distance covered of 300km.

 

 

with ur calculation on a monthly basis, my result is skewed.

with my calculation on a per tank basis, your result is skewed.

in the first place, i'm talking about fuel consumption per tank. not fuel consumption per month.

 

the fairer test? its about which bike spend more time warming up rite?

 

 

 

 

How low?

Resistance is resistance. Its all in proportion.

What's your average travelling speed? 70, 80km/h?

That's enough for significant wind-resistance effects.

 

Don't believe?

Get a windshield on your bike.

Get to the speeds mentioned and try ducking behind the windshield.

See the diff.

 

Tried and test personally with the TLR.

wat do u mean how low since resistance is all in proportion?

 

we all know that windscreen do alot in reducing resistance.

 

 

Topcase does not affect much as your body already blocks most of the wind before it reaches the top box.

Weight and contents of topcase are the only significant factor.

A way to test is by permanently ducking as you ride the bike.

 

Though tat will attract many a Revo's attention...

i do agree that the rider block most of the wind b4 it reaches the topcase as compared to panniers. panniers will have greater resistance compared to topcase. as for weight, unless u r telling me u put 10kg of rice in the topcase everytime u travel then i got nothing to say. if standard items like a helmet n a set of rain coat, it make not much difference.

[dinie]

i jus bought a pair of komine gloves with knuckle protectors made from synthetic leather($90) from motoworld today.. solid man!