[Discussion] CB400 SUPER FOUR HYPER VTEC Revo

[thatguyhaikal]

guys need urgent advice. changing tyre's today. Metzler m5 or diablo rosso 2 or michelin pilot road 3. and what size is recommend. thx!

[killjou]

Just to share among you guys since I ride an S4 as well. Saw this bike yesterday when I was in JB. Pity this unknown S4 owner who had his Showa shocks ripped off. Becareful guys.

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]251050[/ATTACH]

 

That is so sad. I always go jb. Lucky mine has shocks theft protector installed.

[SparkerS1]

guys need urgent advice. changing tyre's today. Metzler m5 or diablo rosso 2 or michelin pilot road 3. and what size is recommend. thx!

M5 & PR3 are gd tires. PR3 gd for those who touring once a while.

 

120/60 front, 160/60 rear.

[thatguyhaikal]

M5 & PR3 are gd tires. PR3 gd for those who touring once a while.

 

120/60 front, 160/60 rear.

 

you know which shop sells it cheapest?

UM selling PR3 at $415

m5 at $299

diablo rosso 2 at $269

[adi_sufri]

 

Hello bros,

My revo is vibrating alot lately especialy near the crash bar area and i am nt sure what is the cause of the vibration.

Any of you have any idea what is the cause of this vibration? Is it because of the engine?

[xiaoyuer1988]

Wow bro ur bike very nice and unique!

[Arlwynn]

Hi guys need your advise thinking of changing my EO to 5w30 is it suitable for my Revo ???

[Mdreza]

Thinking of changing Moriwaki Shorty. Any one have feedbacks on Moriwaki Shorty? Can Share?

[viewpanel]

guys need urgent advice. changing tyre's today. Metzler m5 or diablo rosso 2 or michelin pilot road 3. and what size is recommend. thx!

I am using Rosso 2. I find it the best as the grip of this tyre is un-parallel.... Not really good for touring though due to the faster wear n tear.

However, i am still using for touring purpose as i find that safety is price-less....

 

Oh ya... I got mine at K & T Accessory Trading Pte Ltd at Ubi... Along the same stretch of shop houses as ASPhoon UBI...IMHO It's tyre r usually cheaper than other big players...

[SparkerS1]

you know which shop sells it cheapest?

UM selling PR3 at $415

m5 at $299

diablo rosso 2 at $269

Planet sells PR3 cheaper.

M5 unique still the cheapest.

My revo is vibrating alot lately especialy near the crash bar area and i am nt sure what is the cause of the vibration.

Check all the mountings & bolts. Might be the shrouds?

Hi guys need your advise thinking of changing my EO to 5w30 is it suitable for my Revo ???

For track yes, for normal SG road I will stick to w40 or w50.

[Muzik]

I dun really see a comparison on the FAQ for S4 Revo and Fazer 6. Maybe not a good comparison.

[Arlwynn]

For track yes, for normal SG road I will stick to w40 or w50.

 

Thanks a lot SparkerS1 pal ... Anyway what`s the differents ??? Between 5w30 & 10w40 ???

Cos i have been using Motul 10w40 and i heard some machanic says that new bike should thinner EO like 5w30???

So the bike will feel lighther is it true ???

As i know the only diffferent is the EO thicker or thinner and for different country usage due to the climate ...

[adi_sufri]

Check all the mountings & bolts. Might be the shrouds?

 

Thanks sparkersS1, i actually just bought this bike a week ago and the vibration is really bothering me. hoefully its nothing serious.

done all the outlook for this bike then suddenly this vibration started. Again,thanks. gonna check if it is the bolt or the mounting causing the prob.

[ramsnake]

Hi guys need your advise thinking of changing my EO to 5w30 is it suitable for my Revo ???

 

For track yes, for normal SG road I will stick to w40 or w50.

 

Thanks a lot SparkerS1 pal ... Anyway what`s the differents ??? Between 5w30 & 10w40 ???

Cos i have been using Motul 10w40 and i heard some machanic says that new bike should thinner EO like 5w30???

So the bike will feel lighther is it true ???

As i know the only diffferent is the EO thicker or thinner and for different country usage due to the climate ...

 

Page 93 Revo Manual - Honda recommends 10W 30 viscosity. In simple terms, viscosity refers to "thickness" of the oil. The number 10W/5W/0W refers to the ambient temperature at which the oil will still remain liquid. If the temperature drops below the specified temperature, the oil solidifies and is therefore not suitable for use as an engine oil. This is largely relevant where winter temperatures drop to very low levels. It is mostly not relevant to us.

 

Your mechanic is correct, @Arlwynn. When the bike is new or have not been run in the higher RPM ranges that often, the gap between the piston and the engine block is very tight. Thus the use of 10W30 oil is recommended. It is certainly not for track use only and higher viscosity is not always better. In fact if you use high viscosity oils in new engines or newly overhauled engines you actually risk causing un-even wear of the bore and piston because the oil may be too thick for it to lubricate the upper parts of the pistons properly.

 

As a guide, my bike is now into its 82k+ km and I frequently ride it in the high RPM ranges. I'm using 10W40 oil.

 

you know which shop sells it cheapest?

UM selling PR3 at $415

m5 at $299

diablo rosso 2 at $269

 

Tyres at LAB is the cheapest. I was quoted $320 for PR3 when I wanted to change tyres in May. I was really keen on PR3 but Ah Boy advised against it because of customer complaints (won't post about it here). He recommends Bridgestone BT023 instead. Took his advise and fitted the BT023, a sports touring tyre highly recommended by Bike magazine. No regrets. High speed stability is good. Dry and wet grip is good and judging by my trips last few months, it should last quite long too.

[ramsnake]

Not everyone can afford to pay a lump sum for bike damages, we can prevent it from happening by maintaining our bike well.

So much petrol stations around in SG and within reach of msia petrol, it's just a matter of when and where the rider wanna re-fuel.

 

Since u mentioned about touring, many factors need to be considered; touring speed, distance before the need for re-fueling for any specify bike which requires more re-fueling intervals. Such requests can be made for a well organized group.

 

Overseas; AUS/Europe etc, their climate is totally different from our tropical climate. Humidity & altitude & air pressure are also factors to be considered.

Our Atmosphere is much more humid & more moisture when compared to their cool/dry environment.

This solves the overheating debate. Geography students will understand it better. For others who still don't understand, the internet has the answer.

 

To be clear, this discussion is about whether or not frequently running your bike when the fuel level is in reserve will cause the fuel pump to operate at excessively high temperatures; thus causing the fuel pump to fail.

 

 

Firstly, to me this is a discussion rather than a debate. Secondly it cannot be a debate if one party can unilaterally declare that “the debate is solved”. LOL…

With due respect, I also find your remark that “Geography students will understand it better.” to be rather offensive. As a moderator, you should know better. Unless they no longer teach geography as a subject in schools, I do believe most, if not all of us would have studied geography, specifically the varying climate and temperatures in different parts of the world at some point in our school days.

 

 

For your info, although the climate in Europe and some parts of Australia is typically not humid like our tropical weather, in summer and especially in the Australian deserts, the temperatures can be much higher than in Singapore. By the way, Australia also has tropical regions in the north of the country. In these tropical regions, the wet season lasts about six months in summer and spring, between December and March. It is hotter than the dry season, with temperatures between 30 and 50 degrees Celsius. If you think it is hot here in SG on a day when temperatures are at 40 deg. C, do go and experience what 50 deg C feels like.

 

 

The Honda Revo is one of the Learner Approved bikes in Australia. I believe it is used in some bike schools like in SG because of its reliability. It is also quite popular amongst Aussie riders restricted to the licensing regulations.

 

 

Whether or not anyone can afford to pay a lump sum for bike damages has nothing to do with the matter being discussed. Unless one is a complete idiot when it comes to spending money, no one in their right mind would want to pay for damages to their bike if it can be avoided. As you have seen from my previous posts, I advocate repairing faulty parts if it can be repaired rather than replacing. Even with tonnes of money in the bank, I wouldn’t buy a bike if it has to sit in the workshop half the time. I certainly wouldn’t even consider buying a bike if its manufacturer fits an 18 litre fuel tank of which four litres are in reserve and riding the bike when it’s fuel level reaches the reserve level causes the fuel pump to overheat!

 

 

My reference to a group tour was with regard to riding in a group, whether it is amongst a group of your own 4-6 friends or in a group as large as 200 bikes. When riding with my mates who are on class 2 bikes, we invariably ride at higher speeds and it often means that my bike would be running on reserves by the time we hit the next pit stop. I don’t know about you but I wouldn’t ask my mates to have pit stops just to cater to my fear of overheating the fuel pump when running in reserve.

 

 

When the Honda VFR 1200 was released in 2010, there was a hue and cry by the mis-informed that the tank size is too small to be practical as a sports-tourer. They claimed that the resulting range (distance travelled till empty) is thus limited. Owners of the bike have now dispelled this mis-conception. In fact, some members of another forum actively try to see how far they can go on a full tank of petrol. If running the bike often when the fuel is in reserve would risk overheating the pump, do you think they would risk it? Read about the challenge here.

 

 

If you read about the complaints or enquiries on SBF itself, how many people actually complain about fuel pump failure? From what I’ve seen, this is pretty rare and it certainly isn’t from frequently running in the reserve zone.

 

 

Finally, as I have mentioned, whenever I am in SG I always ride my bike till when it has just enough or a bit more than the minimum fuel to get me to Johor for a refill. This means my bike would invariably have only about 2.5-3 litres in the tank as I head towards Johor. This also means that my bike would already have been in the reserve zone for one or two days before I make the trip for a re-fuel as well as throughout the entire journey for the petrol run. If doing this is going to risk overheating the fuel pump, I wouldn’t do it in the first place. In any case, it is common sense that most bikers who ride to Johor for their petrol would maximize their trip by going in when their bikes are near empty. Otherwise, it defeats the purpose of refueling in Johor. As noted before, there are many bikers who do this on a regular basis. Are we all risking over-heating our fuel pumps??

[ramsnake]

At gear 6 full trottle my rpm cant go above 10.. My top speed at 2nd link is 160km/h.. Why is this so?? I just bought the bike less than a week.. Plsss help me frens !!! Whatsapp me 82470605 if ur keen to help or pm here.. I appreciate it

 

@zarain

Sounds like what happened to me when I bought my 2B bike a few years ago. Sorry, haven't had time to search for my post on this.

 

I'm assuming when you say you just bought the bike, it is a used bike. As a start, do a full service to see if it makes a difference i.e. engine oil change, flush coolant, change spark plugs, change oil filter and check & clean air filter. Also check the condition of the chain and sprockets.

 

Will look for my previous post on how I solved the problem for you soon.

[Mark Yeow]

Thanks sparkersS1, i actually just bought this bike a week ago and the vibration is really bothering me. hoefully its nothing serious.

done all the outlook for this bike then suddenly this vibration started. Again,thanks. gonna check if it is the bolt or the mounting causing the prob.

 

maybe it's just a loose bolt or something. If still persist... send it to your mechanic and get it check!

[adi_sufri]

As a guide, my bike is now into its 82k+ km and I frequently ride it in the high RPM ranges. I'm using 10W40 oil.

 

So it is better to use 10W40 oil if we have our running in period over with is it? So how bout oil treatment additive? any recommendations?

Better to use the oil treatment or doesn't make any diff? Abit new to riding super4. Sorry so many question. I used to ride KR before this.

[ramsnake]

So it is better to use 10W40 oil if we have our running in period over with is it? So how bout oil treatment additive? any recommendations?

Better to use the oil treatment or doesn't make any diff? Abit new to riding super4. Sorry so many question. I used to ride KR before this.

 

I think you may have been confused by my earlier post where I stated:

"When the bike is new or have not been run in the higher RPM ranges that often, the gap between the piston and the engine block is very tight."

 

"...not run in the higher RPM ranges that often..." does not refer to running in period for a new bike or a newly overhauled engine. Generally you would want to stick to 10W30 for quite some time if your bike is mostly ridden in SG. This is simply because the speed limits in SG is so low the engine typically runs only up to about 8,000-8,500RPM at the most. By the way, at 8,000RPM, you would already be doing about 130km/h.

Even those who occasionally run their bike to 10,000-11,000RPM, they would only be doing this for a very short period before running out of roads to do that kind of speeds. With this kind of riding habit, the engine remains fairly tight and using 10W30 is enough.

 

If I own a new bike and I seldom make high speed runs up north, I would continue to use 10W30 for at least 50,000km on the odometer.

(Note: just doing 160km/h on the Gelang Patah-Tuas stretch occasionally don't really count as "high speed runs up north")

 

For riders who do say, one or two trips up north to Melaka/KL and beyond every other month or so and actually do maintain speeds of 160-185km/h for some distance, the engine will loosen up after a few such trips. For such riders, switching to 10W40 would make some sense after about 5-6 such trips.

 

Hope this clears things up for you & congrats on your new bike! Remember to be gentle during the running in period, ok?

[adi_sufri]

Thanks ramsnake. And yeah, i am being as gentle as can be to my bike. For my kr, EO all anyhow use also can. But this bike like too ex la. Don't wanna take the risk. hahaha.

[StrongBow]

So ramsnake bro. To summarize what u just said. If i intend to buy a new bike, oftenly only riding at speeds of 130km/h or so. It's advisable to use thinner EO like 10w30 right? Till lets say after hitting mileage of 50,000km.

 

And also i intend to dyno break in my new bike. Is it advisable? If lets say i only want to use the bike for normal rides.

 

If i get fully synthetic 10w30 and fully syn 10w40. Both also 5000km changing interval right?

 

I also heard else where that using thicker engine oil(maybe 10w40) protects ur engine parts better... So this does not apply to new bikes?

 

Sorry for sort of repeating your post. Just wanna make sure i understand everything as intended

[idbiot]

Hi Guys,

 

The Revo Yoshimura R77 exhaust has been around for sometime.

But I seldom see it on the road, thinking of getting it.

anybody here had installed it can advise me on the experience of it, such as performance increase or decrease?

 

Thanks.

[xiaoyuer1988]

Bro strongbow, u buying 1st hand revo after u pass?

[StrongBow]

Bro strongbow, u buying 1st hand revo after u pass?

 

Yeap bro should be. why?

[xiaoyuer1988]

Haha no la jus askin. U paying full cash?