[Discussion] CB400 SUPER FOUR HYPER VTEC Revo

[rouge]

I bought it from a forum guy. I told e guy his fuel injection has a problem. He compensate me 1k to fix it. Any idea wad would cause it to light up?

[ramsnake]

I bought it from a forum guy. I told e guy his fuel injection has a problem. He compensate me 1k to fix it. Any idea wad would cause it to light up?

 

It could be one of 2 issues:

 

1) Clogged fuel injectors due to a combination of prolonged use of low octane fuel and riding at low/mid RPMs.

2) It could also possibly be the throttle position sensor being faulty.

 

I'd suggest you send it in to Boon Siew for them to diagnose to see what the actual problem is.

 

If it is clogged fuel injectors, buy injector cleaner (FP60 from Racewerks or Motoworld or other brands) and pour in the required dosage into the fuel tank when it is about half full or near empty. Top up with good quality fuel with special cleansing additives (I recommend Shell VPower Racing. Then run the engine at high RPMs. I also suggest you do this on the North South Highway so you have enough open road to run the bike. With sufficiently high RPMs, the PGM FI will force the fuel with the cleaning agents through the injectors to clean/unclog them. Alternatively, Racewerks also provide an injector cleaning service. Have a chat with them to see which option suits you.

Note: It is not necessary to clean the injectors (meaning remove injector heads for cleaning) as a normal routine maintenance. My practice is to pump 1 full tank of Shell VPower Racing after every 3-4 tanks of 95RON petrol. The VPower Racing contain additives that help to clean fuel injectors. Of course, running the bike at high RPMs would help the cleaning process too.

 

If it is the throttle position sensor, Boon Siew will tell you that you need to change the throttle body assembly, which will cost about 1.2k. Don't do it because you can replace the throttle position sensor with an aftermarket TPS for about $200+. I believe Unique has them in stock and will happily change the TPS for you.

 

All the best!

[ramsnake]

Honda recommend 12000km OCI indeed....lets be fair and take certain aspects into consideration and let me explain why i have a 4500km OCI which many people might considered it as waste of resources or money.... if those who read the reviews of revo in the authorised honda website, you can see that the fuel consumption is based on last gear travelling at 60km/hr..... which is slighlty lower than rpm4 at tachometer... thats why i concluded that the oci of 12000km in thw manual is based on that rpm....me travelling at almost 8rpm and sometime dragged to 10rpm use the 4500km oci because 12000km oci --> 4rpm(round up)

 

so using ave rpm of 9 based on my riding habit → 12000/(9/4) = 12000/ 2.25= 5333.3333333km....me, being typica kiasu singaporean wanna play safe and have a 4500km oci as i know engine oil detoriate over times and higher rpm will create more heat and debris in the gearbox.... i am providing this info based on purely my riding experience..... not 20 plus year of cos...you can still say that its not stated in the manual and 10000 km oci is safe.... u might be correct but different riders have different riding habits, nv pin point a particular someone just because he has a status over here in the forum.... i believe there is no definite answer to this OCI topic so please do not try to start any cyber battle over here by saying other people are giving bad advices and/or being biased towards blah blah blah , perhaps you need to use some of the grey matter mate ....

 

lets be fair and let the other be the judge and decide their own OCI... i can say that i did not come out with this 4500km oci based on purely the manual.... i might be wrong ! but if i am correct then happy overhauling mates!!

 

You have correctly stated that you have made an assumption. Now, please explain what is the basis of you arriving at the conclusion or assumption that the recommended OCI is based on running the engine at 60km/h on 6th gear only. FYI, testing an engine to measure fuel efficiency is not the same as testing an engine to determine a recommended OCI.

 

Assuming that you are correct in your assumption, which is not the case, but let's just say you are correct. Then going by your calculations, consider those bikers who go touring and often ride at 160-180km/h or 10-11,000 RPM all the way to Hatyai and beyond. SG-Hatyai is about 920km one way or 1,840km return. They should then change oil at about 3,500km because they ride at the higher average RPM than you do? This also applies even if they are using good quality synthetic oils?

 

Quick, go tell that the bikers on the touring threads that they're damaging their engines!

 

1) I given you my answer but you choose to ignore it and feel agitated and frustrated again.

Don't know whether my answer to you is unacceptable or you refused to accept it.

 

2) I nv insist anything in the first place so why are you pin-pointing me in the first place?

You keep assuming that I am insisting and behaving so agressively.

I already provided your favourite Mobil company link but I wonder if you read it and understand anything from it.

 

3) Firstly, the others are sharing their opinons and experiences therefore I thank them for contributing.

Secondly, I did not argue with you therefore who is the one that is upset and keep on arguing.

Thirdly, I am sharing my views and pls view #1 for your answer.

Lastly, I mentioned that Engine Oil: Semi-syn change every 3000km, Fully-syn change every 5000km (Can +/- up to 1000km).

This is the reason why I mentioned don't argue with me as different riders have different riding habits and riding condition. This is a just a guide.

 

4) Is your method correcting information/advise?

Why should SBF follow the style of other forums?

We are fellow local riders sharing the biking culture and bond together as a big family.

Oh, you are frustrated when someone fails to understand a certain topic.

Meaning you are a person who lose temper easily, okie now we understand that.

 

 

 

 

 

5) So you are still directed at criticising me isn't it? So let the people see for themselves who is the stubborn one.

 

6) Clear cut you are just upset that I happened to become a moderator and continue to flame me time after time.

So what bad advices have I given and been biased towards anything?

 

More off topic drivel?

Any comments on any of the facts I have mentioned in my posts?

Instead about regurgitating what the oil companies want you to believe, do you have any comments at all on what the independent reports from experts quoted by the New York Times and other references suggests i.e. the 3,000 miles (5,000km) OCI is an outdated and wasteful practice?

 

Still don't understand the importance and responsibility of someone with a title? Hmm... not sure if I can help you any further because I have verbally explained this to quite a few people already and they all get it!

 

Of course they'll have to emphasize more on the different type of engine oils because they are the oil manufacturers. Who would criticize their own products? It'll be suicidal. Anyway, I never reach 15,000rpm on my REVO.

 

 

I experienced with my revo for the car & motocycler oil have different during cruising to KL with avr spd 16x km/h.

1) Castrol Activ (motor oil): Down/up shift acceleration performance consistent. Easy to reach 19x km/h.

2) Castrol Magnatec (car oil): Require longer time to max spd after 16x km/h.

3) No different when ride below 14x km/h during all the way.

4) Concluded that as higher of the rpm & cruising time, the acceleration time disparity getting more.

 

I have used Mobil 1 for bikes, Mobil 1 for cars and I am now running Shell Rimula for diesel trucks on my Revo! I just did a run to KL at near top speeds with Shell Rimula in the engine. No difference in terms of low or top end performance.

 

Click here to view the oil change interval of CB400 riders.

 

Please poll for your oil change interval

 

Now, this must be the icing on the cake. What is this poll for? What is the objective? If you are only trying to determine what is the number or percentage of bikers' OCI at the respective range based on their existing practice, then yes, this poll will tell you that. However, running a poll to see what is the existing practice does not equate to these poll responders using an OCI that is appropriate. In other words, if people have been told that they should apply OCI of 5k and have been adopting OCI of 5k for donkey years for whatever reason, you will only be counting the number of people who are using that OCI. It does not mean that the OCI they are using is justifiable nor can that number then be used as a "guideline" for those wanting to learn about this issue.

[Winners]

....I am now running Shell Rimula for diesel trucks on my Revo! I just did a run to KL at near top speeds with Shell Rimula in the engine. No difference in terms of low or top end performance. ......

 

Salute you brother, much braver than me. Do feedback to this thread again and let us know of the performance (for both the oil and engine) after their 5k, 8k and 10k mileage, since your OCI is 10k mileage.

[rouge]

It could be one of 2 issues:

 

1) Clogged fuel injectors due to a combination of prolonged use of low octane fuel and riding at low/mid RPMs.

2) It could also possibly be the throttle position sensor being faulty.

 

I'd suggest you send it in to Boon Siew for them to diagnose to see what the actual problem is.

 

If it is clogged fuel injectors, buy injector cleaner (FP60 from Racewerks or Motoworld or other brands) and pour in the required dosage into the fuel tank when it is about half full or near empty. Top up with good quality fuel with special cleansing additives (I recommend Shell VPower Racing. Then run the engine at high RPMs. I also suggest you do this on the North South Highway so you have enough open road to run the bike. With sufficiently high RPMs, the PGM FI will force the fuel with the cleaning agents through the injectors to clean/unclog them. Alternatively, Racewerks also provide an injector cleaning service. Have a chat with them to see which option suits you.

Note: It is not necessary to clean the injectors (meaning remove injector heads for cleaning) as a normal routine maintenance. My practice is to pump 1 full tank of Shell VPower Racing after every 3-4 tanks of 95RON petrol. The VPower Racing contain additives that help to clean fuel injectors. Of course, running the bike at high RPMs would help the cleaning process too.

 

If it is the throttle position sensor, Boon Siew will tell you that you need to change the throttle body assembly, which will cost about 1.2k. Don't do it because you can replace the throttle position sensor with an aftermarket TPS for about $200+. I believe Unique has them in stock and will happily change the TPS for you.

 

All the best!

 

Tanx bro for e detailed reply. E previous owner mention he did a valve clearance recently when e mileage hit 80k. Now its only 83k when he handed me e bike. He assured me e fuel injection cant be spoil. Is valve clearance part of e injector cleaning process? Aniway bro I notice e bike is parallel imported . No way boon siew would diagnosed it right? Thanks again for ur help.

[ldslds]

You have correctly stated that you have made an assumption. Now, please explain what is the basis of you arriving at the conclusion or assumption that the recommended OCI is based on running the engine at 60km/h on 6th gear only. FYI, testing an engine to measure fuel efficiency is not the same as testing an engine to determine a recommended OCI.

 

 

Like i said, its my assumption where i have mentioned its based on the 60km/h to measure the fuel efficiency, its called assumption as its my guess which you can choose not to follow

 

Assuming that you are correct in your assumption, which is not the case,

 

Ahhhhh, you said that my assumption is not correct, forget the 'just say you are correct', prove to me why my OCI assumption is not correct.... Please enlighten me what RPM is honda using to determine the 12000km OCI which i supposed you do know since you have mentioned that testing an engine to measure fuel efficiency is not the same as testing an engine to determine a recommended OCI....

 

 

consider those bikers who go touring and often ride at 160-180km/h or 10-11,000 RPM all the way to Hatyai and beyond. SG-Hatyai is about 920km one way or 1,840km return. They should then change oil at about 3,500km because they ride at the higher average RPM than you do? This also applies even if they are using good quality synthetic oils?

 

Quick, go tell that the bikers on the touring threads that they're damaging their engines!

 

 

I did mentioned time is one of the factors, like i have mentioned, its their own preference and i don't see the need to tell them that they are damaging their engines, like i said i am assuming, i do not want to spread my assumption like some smart alec in the forum

[StrongBow]

actually i honestly think it would be great if ldslds or sparkers could give a backed-up report or thesis on 5k OCI, like the one ramsnake gave on 10k OCI.

 

else this is just turning out to be a "die-die-dont-want-lose" argument. in which case, no point carrying on at all.

 

i believe when this ends, it all comes down to what OCI is the correct one and not who is the last man standing.

 

to me, ramsnake maybe kinda rough, but he proved what he said with back up.

u guys werent all smooth either, but no back up.

 

so.... cheeeers.

[ldslds]

actually i honestly think it would be great if ldslds or sparkers could give a backed-up report or thesis on 5k OCI, like the one ramsnake gave on 10k OCI.

 

else this is just turning out to be a "die-die-dont-want-lose" argument. in which case, no point carrying on at all.

 

i believe when this ends, it all comes down to what OCI is the correct one and not who is the last man standing.

 

to me, ramsnake maybe kinda rough, but he proved what he said with back up.

u guys werent all smooth either, but no back up.

 

so.... cheeeers.

 

Bro Strongbow, as i have mentioned, my OCI is based on assumption which till now i have not to claim that my assumption is correct, It serves as a guide for other riders why i am having 4500km OCI which they will decide on their own OCI, ramsnake did provide backed-up report or thesis on 10k OCI indeed, he can provide a very trustworthy OCI based on the reports but that's including his own assumption in some part of the considerations as I believe many of the testing details are not stated like what RPM is used to conclude the 12000km OCI inside honda manual.... thats why i said we can only provide an assumption and a guide for other riders, i have nv say that his information is wrong and is misleading other riders which he did to sparkers1, the only way to prove which OCI is correct is to see whose bike's engine UP LORRY first:P

[ramsnake]

Tanx bro for e detailed reply. E previous owner mention he did a valve clearance recently when e mileage hit 80k. Now its only 83k when he handed me e bike. He assured me e fuel injection cant be spoil. Is valve clearance part of e injector cleaning process? Aniway bro I notice e bike is parallel imported . No way boon siew would diagnosed it right? Thanks again for ur help.

 

You're welcome, @rouge

Valve clearance should not affect the FI. Even if it's a parallel import, just give it a try with Boon Siew. I don't think they will refuse. Afterall, it's still business for them. I can also refer you to a good and reliable mechanic. PM me if you'd like an intro.

[ramsnake]

Salute you brother, much braver than me. Do feedback to this thread again and let us know of the performance (for both the oil and engine) after their 5k, 8k and 10k mileage, since your OCI is 10k mileage.

 

Our brothers in the US have been raving about the Shell engine oil for trucks and they have found it to be a very good oil. The oil analysis they did indicate that it lasts longer and deteriorate at a slower rate than the motorcycle specific oils. In the US, it is sold as Shell Rotella. Locally it is marketed as Shell Rimula R4. Look up Shell Rotella for some info. The links I provided in one of my posts recently on OCI also have some info on this oil.

[_kiddo_]

revo standard stock except for K&N air filters. recently realised an abnormal increase in idling (1600rpm or slightly higher. used to be at 1200-1400rpm) and noticable difference in power and bike isnt as smooth... normal riding right before this and no problem. this issue just creep out of nowhere. mech claim have to go back boon siew and use computer for mapping and wat nots. called boon siew, charging @440 per hour just to investigate wic is crazy.. holding back on the riding aS Im afraid if this is a bigger issue than it looks. just in case untill i get a solution..

 

please help guys.

and recommendations on good mechanics in the East will be appreciated as well.. thanks!

[_kiddo_]

revo standard stock except for K&N air filters. recently realised an abnormal increase in idling (1600rpm or slightly higher. used to be at 1200-1400rpm) and noticable difference in power and bike isnt as smooth... normal riding right before this and no problem. this issue just creep out of nowhere. mech claim have to go back boon siew and use computer for mapping and wat nots. called boon siew, charging *@$40 per hour just to investigate wic is crazy.. holding back on the riding aS Im afraid if this is a bigger issue than it looks. just in case untill i get a solution..

 

please help guys.

and recommendations on good mechanics in the East will be appreciated as well.. thanks!

[gamerzdude]

Hey bro, I think there is no need to go kan chiong or paranoid over the slight increase in idling speed. Idling speed can change due to various factors, but as long as it's below 1900rpm, I wouldn't give it a second thought. Average idling speed is usually 1400rpm - 1600rpm. U don't have to go back to Boon Siew. I had previously asked and gotten email confirmation from Boon Siew - there is currently NO upgraded maps (or newer revisions) for the REVO. The default map is still the current map. And by the way, maps never go missing, go corrupted, or get changed (unless u intentionally modify it before) - so whatever map u had as stock, is still there safely in your ECU.

 

Also, the REVO takes a couple of minutes upon starting the bike, before it's idling speed becomes stable.

 

As to your feeling of "difference in power and smoothness" - I am unable to comment on that.

 

Cheers.

 

revo standard stock except for K&N air filters. recently realised an abnormal increase in idling (1600rpm or slightly higher. used to be at 1200-1400rpm) and noticable difference in power and bike isnt as smooth... normal riding right before this and no problem. this issue just creep out of nowhere. mech claim have to go back boon siew and use computer for mapping and wat nots. called boon siew, charging *@$40 per hour just to investigate wic is crazy.. holding back on the riding aS Im afraid if this is a bigger issue than it looks. just in case untill i get a solution..

 

please help guys.

and recommendations on good mechanics in the East will be appreciated as well.. thanks!

[ramsnake]

revo standard stock except for K&N air filters. recently realised an abnormal increase in idling (1600rpm or slightly higher. used to be at 1200-1400rpm) and noticable difference in power and bike isnt as smooth... normal riding right before this and no problem. this issue just creep out of nowhere. mech claim have to go back boon siew and use computer for mapping and wat nots. called boon siew, charging *@$40 per hour just to investigate wic is crazy.. holding back on the riding aS Im afraid if this is a bigger issue than it looks. just in case untill i get a solution..

 

please help guys.

and recommendations on good mechanics in the East will be appreciated as well.. thanks!

 

Hey,

 

As gamersdude mentioned, the mapping shouldn't be affected in any way since you haven't changed the maps with PC5 installed. From what you wrote, I'm assuming that the idling you are referring to is after the bike has warmed up, that is not when it is just started from cold.

 

If the idling is at 1.6k, it is high. Sometimes, the throttle cable may be worn and is stuck at a certain point, resulting in slight "rev" of throttle. Thus the high idling. This is a cheap fix. If it's not the cable, it could be some part of the throttle body (usually butterfly valves within the throttle body) that is stuck in the slight open position.

The 3rd cause could be the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Aftermarket TPS are sold for about $200-300. They work just as well as the OEM TPS rather than changing the entire throttle body assembly, which will cost about $1.3k.

 

An experienced mech should be able to check what is the cause. I've PM'd you contact details of a good mech. Do give us your feedback after you have sorted out the issue.

[SparkerS1]

Any comments on any of the facts I have mentioned in my posts?

Instead about regurgitating what the oil companies want you to believe, do you have any comments at all on what the independent reports from experts quoted by the New York Times and other references suggests i.e. the 3,000 miles (5,000km) OCI is an outdated and wasteful practice?

 

Now, this must be the icing on the cake. What is this poll for? What is the objective? If you are only trying to determine what is the number or percentage of bikers' OCI at the respective range based on their existing practice, then yes, this poll will tell you that.

The service intervals in the CB400 Maintenance Schedule are based on average riding conditions. Some items will need more frequent service if you ride in unusually wet or dusty areas, or if you often accelerate quickly and use full throttle.

http://motorcycle.honda.ca/parts-service/maintenance-schedules

 

Even Honda has such a Claus which time after time you failed to notice and constantly insist your way of doing is the best and condemned others' opinions.

You failed to knowledge that every rider has different riding habits & encountering different road condition.

You failed to realise that certain things are done at individual's discretion.

 

Yes, we understand what you are driving at but have you shown respect to others opinions?

 

I did mentioned time is one of the factors, like i have mentioned, its their own preference and i don't see the need to tell them that they are damaging their engines, like i said i am assuming, i do not want to spread my assumption like some smart alec in the forum

 

Don't understand why some people failed to understand its own discretion/preference and even forbids others from sharing their own opinions.

 

actually i honestly think it would be great if ldslds or sparkers could give a backed-up report or thesis on 5k OCI, like the one ramsnake gave on 10k OCI.

If details/facts from motorcycle manufacturing company and oil production company failed to convince anyone, feel free to follow those "independent reports from experts" from the places I nv been too

 

thats why i said we can only provide an assumption and a guide for other riders, i have nv say that his information is wrong and is misleading other riders which he did to sparkers1, the only way to prove which OCI is correct is to see whose bike's engine UP LORRY first:P

That is right.

Nobody is accusing he is wrong but look at what he did for the past 3 pages of this thread

[ldslds]

revo standard stock except for K&N air filters. recently realised an abnormal increase in idling (1600rpm or slightly higher. used to be at 1200-1400rpm) and noticable difference in power and bike isnt as smooth... normal riding right before this and no problem. this issue just creep out of nowhere. mech claim have to go back boon siew and use computer for mapping and wat nots. called boon siew, charging *@$40 per hour just to investigate wic is crazy.. holding back on the riding aS Im afraid if this is a bigger issue than it looks. just in case untill i get a solution..

 

please help guys.

and recommendations on good mechanics in the East will be appreciated as well.. thanks!

 

bro u can try close ur trottle completely using ur hand to see is it caused by prolong usage.... try to spray some wd40 on ur throttle sleeve where the throttle cable is lying by opening the 2 screws on ur right switch housing

[gamerzdude]

_kiddo_ -> maybe like the other bros says, your throttle cable could be stuck or too tight. U can loosen the throttle cable and giving it more slack . Also if you turn your handlebar from extreme left and extreme right and back, - if u notice a slight change in your rpm it means your throttle cable is too tight or not gliding smoothly in the housing.

 

bro u can try close ur trottle completely using ur hand to see is it caused by prolong usage.... try to spray some wd40 on ur throttle sleeve where the throttle cable is lying by opening the 2 screws on ur right switch housing

[gamerzdude]

_kiddo_ -> maybe like the other bros says, your throttle cable could be stuck or too tight. U can loosen the throttle cable and giving it more slack . Also if you turn your handlebar from extreme left and extreme right and back, - if u notice a slight change in your rpm it means your throttle cable is too tight or not gliding smoothly in the housing.

 

bro u can try close ur trottle completely using ur hand to see is it caused by prolong usage.... try to spray some wd40 on ur throttle sleeve where the throttle cable is lying by opening the 2 screws on ur right switch housing

[hafizhata]

Hi all, im planning to upgrade from a 2A to 2... got a pair of ohlin rear suspension for sale... if interested pls sms at 97735125

[revoltElastico]

hi everyone, i wish to seek some advice regarding my exhaust.

 

today as i was riding home from work, i my bike felt different. the reaction time turning the throttle to feeling the bike pick up became slower. my exhaust pipe also sounded different (sounds more coarse). at first it was not apparent enough to me but along the way it got more distinctive.

 

i was especially shocked after moving off at the traffic light when my normal releasing of clutch and throttle did not coincide. i had to throttle slightly more than usual, hearing also a coarser sound coming from my exhaust.

 

when i finally parked, i look a look a the exhaust and saw slight black smoke coming out from it (it could be just me because i am not so observant usually)

 

therefore, my suspicions are that:

1) a leaf or some sort of foreign objects dropped into my exhaust when it was parked and i did not notice, causing a blocked flow of air,

2) the pipe is leaking

 

can any bros who have advice on this or have had similar experiences help me out here? btw my revo is fitted with a GPR, so the diameter at the end of the can is big enough for a small leaf to just nice fall in.

 

Thanks.

[ramsnake]

hi everyone, i wish to seek some advice regarding my exhaust.

 

today as i was riding home from work, i my bike felt different. the reaction time turning the throttle to feeling the bike pick up became slower. my exhaust pipe also sounded different (sounds more coarse). at first it was not apparent enough to me but along the way it got more distinctive.

 

i was especially shocked after moving off at the traffic light when my normal releasing of clutch and throttle did not coincide. i had to throttle slightly more than usual, hearing also a coarser sound coming from my exhaust.

 

when i finally parked, i look a look a the exhaust and saw slight black smoke coming out from it (it could be just me because i am not so observant usually)

 

therefore, my suspicions are that:

1) a leaf or some sort of foreign objects dropped into my exhaust when it was parked and i did not notice, causing a blocked flow of air,

2) the pipe is leaking

 

can any bros who have advice on this or have had similar experiences help me out here? btw my revo is fitted with a GPR, so the diameter at the end of the can is big enough for a small leaf to just nice fall in.

 

Thanks.

 

I doubt it was a leaf because leaves of that size that's small enough to get into your pipe is also light enough to be expelled by the exhaust gas. Even is there was actually a leaf in the pipe, it wouldn't cause your engine to lose torque (acceleration/pick-up).

 

If there is black smoke in the exhaust, it is an indication of unburnt fuel. An over-rich air-fuel mix will account for the loss of power you felt. I would suggest that you rev the engine in neutral gear a few times and have a look at the exhaust gas to confirm if there is black smoke. Ride on a safe stretch of road to test pick up again. If the bike still hesitates, it could be down to a few things causing the excess fuel.

 

I recommend sending it to a shop you trust to have them check your bike. I recently recommended @_kiddo_ to my mech to troubleshoot his idling issue. It turned out to be a relatively cheap fix (dirty auto-choke that just needed some cleaning) compared to the $40/hour Boon Siew wanted to charge just to investigate the fault!

 

All the best!

[revoltElastico]

I doubt it was a leaf because leaves of that size that's small enough to get into your pipe is also light enough to be expelled by the exhaust gas. Even is there was actually a leaf in the pipe, it wouldn't cause your engine to lose torque (acceleration/pick-up).

 

If there is black smoke in the exhaust, it is an indication of unburnt fuel. An over-rich air-fuel mix will account for the loss of power you felt. I would suggest that you rev the engine in neutral gear a few times and have a look at the exhaust gas to confirm if there is black smoke. Ride on a safe stretch of road to test pick up again. If the bike still hesitates, it could be down to a few things causing the excess fuel.

 

I recommend sending it to a shop you trust to have them check your bike. I recently recommended @_kiddo_ to my mech to troubleshoot his idling issue. It turned out to be a relatively cheap fix (dirty auto-choke that just needed some cleaning) compared to the $40/hour Boon Siew wanted to charge just to investigate the fault!

 

All the best!

 

 

I see, thanks ramsnake, It is definitely not normal so I will take your recommendation.. Btw Could it be fault with throttle cable or anything else? Just don't want to rule out any possibility.. Hmm.

[ramsnake]

I see, thanks ramsnake, It is definitely not normal so I will take your recommendation.. Btw Could it be fault with throttle cable or anything else? Just don't want to rule out any possibility.. Hmm.

 

Sign of smoke is not a throttle issue especially when there is also a loss of power.

[Winners]

hi everyone, i wish to seek some advice regarding my exhaust.

 

today as i was riding home from work, i my bike felt different. the reaction time turning the throttle to feeling the bike pick up became slower. my exhaust pipe also sounded different (sounds more coarse). at first it was not apparent enough to me but along the way it got more distinctive.

 

i was especially shocked after moving off at the traffic light when my normal releasing of clutch and throttle did not coincide. i had to throttle slightly more than usual, hearing also a coarser sound coming from my exhaust.

 

when i finally parked, i look a look a the exhaust and saw slight black smoke coming out from it (it could be just me because i am not so observant usually)

 

can any bros who have advice on this or have had similar experiences help me out here? btw my revo is fitted with a GPR, so the diameter at the end of the can is big enough for a small leaf to just nice fall in.

 

Thanks.

 

Your above symptoms could indicate engine valves problem, especially if there's a change in the sound of the exhaust, coupled with abnormal smoking from the exhaust. It's quite unlikely to be a choked exhaust since it's a 4-stroke engine. Do get a reliable mechanic to check it up. Do feedback again when you've located the cause so that forumers here can learn a thing or two.

[hanern]

I just brought a Yuasa YTX9-BS from lab and it is from china. Safe to use? cost me $55.

Do i need to charge before installing to my revo?