[Group] SUZUKI Bandit

[rAjOaNa]

Originally posted by S750WP@May 13 2005, 09:35 AM

I tried castrol R4, Elf, Fuchs Pro 4 and Motul 5100 but still find Repsol is the best.

 

20w60 is too thick for our bike. For our weather here, dun bother about the first number eg 10w or 15w look at the second number which represent the viscosity(how thick is the oil). The greater the number the higher the viscosity. For local use 40 or 50 is ok.

jus qurious wats the 1st no. like 10w-15w stands for?

[rAjOaNa]

btw i opened my speedo metre n saw the blubs are too small those type dun have white light blubs. only the slightly bigger ones got white blubs.

 

So thought of looking for those bigger blub holder/sockets...thinking of changing the whole socket so can put the bigger blubs tht are give out white light.

 

any comments?

 

am i jus too bored?

[rAjOaNa]

S750WP, bro current i have a switch tht controls my headlight. So meaning when i on my ignition my speedo n tail lights are always on. I was thinking of if the speedo lights n the tail light can be controlled together with the headlight switch?

 

advisible to do tht?

If yes..any advise or direction?

[rAjOaNa]

Looks like i m flooding the thread.

 

Anyway in the manual where written final reduction ratio (44/14), is tht the size of the rear n front sprocket?

[Shawn--]

Originally posted by rAjOaNa@May 14 2005, 02:44 AM

Looks like i m flooding the thread.

 

Anyway in the manual where written final reduction ratio (44/14), is tht the size of the rear n front sprocket?

For GK76A, i was told by GH mine is Front 15 Rear 46 For stock. 100km/hr- 6krpm

now i changed to Front15 Rear44. 104km/hr 6krpm.

 

Wad about everyone? care to share? Coz going to change sprocket soon. Was considering Front 14 rear 42.

[kata_killer]

Originally posted by Shawn--@May 14 2005, 04:09 AM

For GK76A, i was told by GH mine is Front 15 Rear 46 For stock. 100km/hr- 6krpm

now i changed to Front15 Rear44. 104km/hr 6krpm.

 

Wad about everyone? care to share? Coz going to change sprocket soon. Was considering Front 14 rear 42.

Use font 14, rear 45. tat is d best... U will feel very comfortable one. Cos I'm using one....

[rAjOaNa]

Originally posted by Shawn--@May 14 2005, 04:09 AM

For GK76A, i was told by GH mine is Front 15 Rear 46 For stock. 100km/hr- 6krpm

now i changed to Front15 Rear44. 104km/hr 6krpm.

 

Wad about everyone? care to share? Coz going to change sprocket soon. Was considering Front 14 rear 42.

....wats GK76A n GH?

[rAjOaNa]

If E.O. due to change n u haven't will it become lesser?

[Shawn--]

GK76A is gsxr400. I think bandit is call GK75A not too sure. GH is Guan Hoe suzuki's agent. Good at repairing suzuki's bike.

 

Check ur engine cover tat circle mirror, straighten ur bike 1st. If its below L means must change or top up liao .

[silver]

Did my 2nd valve clearance on thursday (finally got time to do it). Had a small hiccup when i tried to do the 2nd part of the checking. Somehow something was stuck and i cant turn the rear wheel (i suspect dirt drop in), bo pian left the bike at my workplace to be continued next day. Next day still cant figure out the problem, call my mechanic and kena scolded by him he suggested to try and put back everything and start the bike see ok bo. My staff say better not incase i break the valves or wat....In the end fed-up lah...just try my luck put back everything and start the bike (at least if something broken, i noe what is it rather than dunno where to troubleshoot). Luckly can start, so had to restart all over again. Luckily this time is much faster than the 1st time i took (getting use to it) :sweat: if not really got to send to bikeshop and kena scold by ah chong (his prediction that my bike would arrive on a tow truck did not came true )

 

Found out that my previous clearances was wayyy....too loose max 0.15mm and i can still stick a .203mm guage in Learn to check with a 2nd bigger size gauage to confirm the clearance and the correct method of checking (the picture shown in the manual not accurate one).... set all to mid range

 

The engine sound much better than last time but i could still hear the tap tap sound though not as loud (tot can get rid of the tap tap sound totally, remember S750SP's bandit didnt had any tap tap sound at all, maybe got time re-do again)...the engine sound out of tune maybe becos haven done my carb tuning yet...too tired and giddy after finish everything...wash and oil my air filter and install my modded rear hugger (though the effect is not as good as i wanted)...oh ya, shorten the air intake rubber tube to increase air flow, result is a louder and deeper sound after 5k......

 

Haven done that for a long time.......... tiring but fun to work on your own bike..... my staffs and others cannot understand why i like to work on my bike instead of sending to bikeshop.......you learn more and appreciate the work done by yourself and the mechanics in the process of doing it.......

 

next in mind maybe the carb equalize mod (realised can dun care abt the vacum tube to the fuel tank when thinking of the carb tuning process), front fender extender, belly pan, fork protector mod. Also to check my brake pads (the front pads are still thick despite 2.5yrs on the bike ).

[rAjOaNa]

Originally posted by Shawn--@May 14 2005, 01:20 PM

GK76A is gsxr400. I think bandit is call GK75A not too sure. GH is Guan Hoe suzuki's agent. Good at repairing suzuki's bike.

 

Check ur engine cover tat circle mirror, straighten ur bike 1st. If its below L means must change or top up liao .

yup it is low. Haiz hope my piston rings n r ok la.

jus topped up 300-400ml EO.

[silver]

noe why i thought the engine sounds funny.......

just realise that that is the actual engine sound i heard, previously had been hearing the valve tapping sound above the engine sound such that i had forgotten that it is such a lovely sweet sound

 

love every moment on the bike :cheer:

[S750WP]

Originally posted by silver@May 14 2005, 01:39 PM

The engine sound much better than last time but i could still hear the tap tap sound though not as loud (tot can get rid of the tap tap sound totally, remember S750SP's bandit didnt had any tap tap sound at all, maybe got time re-do again

 

next in mind maybe the carb equalize mod (realised can dun care abt the vacum tube to the fuel tank when thinking of the carb tuning process),

My bike can hear the valve tapping sound during start up from cold, but once its properly warm up the sound will be soften.

 

I notice there is some slight jerking of the bike in the low rpm and I need to pull the choke whenever start up from cold. Speed drop, 120km/h at 8rpm compare to previuosly at 130km/h. Not sure if its due to the 4 way equalization or the crankcase breather filter mod I did on the engine case (stainless steel hose on the engine oil pour in hole) Going to remove one by one to verify this week.

[silver]

Originally posted by S750WP@May 15 2005, 09:51 AM

My bike can hear the valve tapping sound during start up from cold, but once its properly warm up the sound will be soften.

 

I notice there is some slight jerking of the bike in the low rpm and I need to pull the choke whenever start up from cold. Speed drop, 120km/h at 8rpm compare to previuosly at 130km/h. Not sure if its due to the 4 way equalization or the crankcase breather filter mod I did on the engine case (stainless steel hose on the engine oil pour in hole) Going to remove one by one to verify this week.

hmm...is it so? must listen carefully again. cos at first after warm up it is soften but after i play around with some settings, the sounds appear again. My oil is due for change, maybe new oil will cause the sound to disappear?

 

check with you, if I had already tune my carb to same vacum height, if i play around with the air/fuel screw, do i need to retune the carbs again?

 

anyway, the deep air sound heard after 5krpm is due to airbox not properly covered, after cover properly the engine sound is softer. But noticed bike now more mild in performanace, with the extra air the bike seems more exciting *leaner = more power?*

[silver]

Originally posted by S750WP@May 15 2005, 09:51 AM

My bike can hear the valve tapping sound during start up from cold, but once its properly warm up the sound will be soften.

 

I notice there is some slight jerking of the bike in the low rpm and I need to pull the choke whenever start up from cold. Speed drop, 120km/h at 8rpm compare to previuosly at 130km/h. Not sure if its due to the 4 way equalization or the crankcase breather filter mod I did on the engine case (stainless steel hose on the engine oil pour in hole) Going to remove one by one to verify this week.

forget to ask, is the tappet sound louder than the engine sound after warm up or must go very near to engine then can hear?

[kata_killer]

Wow.... All so "Chim".

[rAjOaNa]

Originally posted by rAjOaNa@May 14 2005, 02:19 AM

S750WP, bro current i have a switch tht controls my headlight. So meaning when i on my ignition my speedo n tail lights are always on. I was thinking of if the speedo lights n the tail light can be controlled together with the headlight switch?

 

advisible to do tht?

If yes..any advise or direction?

[Shawn--]

silver also got da carb balancer ah ?How much u bought ?

[S750WP]

Originally posted by silver@May 16 2005, 12:15 PM

hmm...is it so? must listen carefully again. cos at first after warm up it is soften but after i play around with some settings, the sounds appear again. My oil is due for change, maybe new oil will cause the sound to disappear?

 

check with you, if I had already tune my carb to same vacum height, if i play around with the air/fuel screw, do i need to retune the carbs again?

 

anyway, the deep air sound heard after 5krpm is due to airbox not properly covered, after cover properly the engine sound is softer. But noticed bike now more mild in performanace, with the extra air the bike seems more exciting *leaner = more power?*

Probably you need to check again to see if its really the valve tapping sound or other sound cause by loosen connections. But I believe it got nothing to do with the engine oil unless you are using a ultra low grade of oil which have cause the engine parts to worn out prematurely. But no harm changing to fresh engine oil if its already due.

 

You shouldnt need to syn the carb again by adjusting the mixture screw, because the mixture screw only adjust the air/fuel mixture at idling and low rpm. Carb syn only balance out the vacumm across the carbs so that each carb pull in the same amount of air and fuel. But you will need to syn the carb if you did valve clearance because you are ajusting the valve stroke which affects vacumm.

 

I have a whistling sound on my bike too, air leaking somewhere. And I believe its due to the airbox cover cannot be aligned propely to close fully as it warped, probably due to heat. But its shiok to hear the sound at the 5k rpm range as though Vtec is activating.

 

The tapping sound is really soft after engine warm up, must go closer to the engine then can hear the tick tick sound. My car mechanic fren actually advise me to open up the valve clearance at the exhaust side because its hotter there as exhasted air exit from the cylinded and close up the valve clearance at the intake side because its just to draw in fuel and air only instead of ajusting them to the mid range.

[S750WP]

Originally posted by kata_killer@May 16 2005, 01:51 PM

Wow.... All so "Chim".

Hehehe...still not as chim as some terms used by bike shop.

[S750WP]

Originally posted by rAjOaNa@May 16 2005, 01:54 PM

You can do that but you need to trace the main 12V supply powering up the tacho, licence light and tail light during start up and make a switch there. But why would you want to off all the lights together??

 

The reason which I make a headlight on/off is because the headlight draws too much current, sometime its easier to start the bike by switching off the headlite.

[S750WP]

Originally posted by Shawn--@May 16 2005, 04:38 PM

silver also got da carb balancer ah ?How much u bought ?

Check this website Morgan Cabtune2 its a good investment if you like to DIY.

 

And normally bike shop charge $80 for carb wash and syn, it will break even for 2 service by shop somemore the tool can be used for your future bike too.

[Shawn--]

Originally posted by S750WP@May 16 2005, 06:56 PM

Check this website Morgan Cabtune2 its a good investment if you like to DIY.

 

And normally bike shop charge $80 for carb wash and syn, it will break even for 2 service by shop somemore the tool can be used for your future bike too.

tat was ex sial. UK55pound. Singapore around $160 ba. S750WP how much u bought urs ? Possible to get it in singapore ?

[silver]

Originally posted by Shawn--@May 16 2005, 04:38 PM

silver also got da carb balancer ah ?How much u bought ?

$170. direct from website.

 

should had bought it last yr when exchange rate lower, ~$160 then.

[silver]

Originally posted by S750WP@May 16 2005, 06:41 PM

I have a whistling sound on my bike too, air leaking somewhere. And I believe its due to the airbox cover cannot be aligned propely to close fully as it warped, probably due to heat. But its shiok to hear the sound at the 5k rpm range as though Vtec is activating.

 

agree fully!! like gxsr rite

 

The tapping sound is really soft after engine warm up, must go closer to the engine then can hear the tick tick sound. My car mechanic fren actually advise me to open up the valve clearance at the exhaust side because its hotter there as exhasted air exit from the cylinded and close up the valve clearance at the intake side because its just to draw in fuel and air only instead of ajusting them to the mid range.

 

meaning exhaust side use mid to max reading & intake use min reading? Ah chong tell me to use 0.08 (my min. is 0.1 & 0.18 for intake & exhaust) then no sound liao. I worry overheat on long period high speed. See when i go crazy again i go adjust the valve readings to your suggestion my friend who use to tune car say use fingernail gauge can liao