Battery Life Span

[Speedpass]

oh.....let me know when u r going lor...

 

No problem .

[borntostayalive]

Sry, Why my bike seem to be a battery problem to me sometime. later time i use to ride fast and everything seem to be ok. now i riding 100km/hr and the battery seem not enough power. only when i run at 140 above then it start charging. Any body can tell me why?

[limbat]

There is a problem with yr bike charging - too high rpm then get sufficient charge. This is not normal - pls hv your charging system checked ...........

[Speedpass]

Bro , heard tat the batt need to be standing upright in order to charge properly . True anot ?

[limbat]

Yes, mate bec most batteries are design to be stand upright as then all the lead plates are submerged in the acid.

[Speedpass]

Yes, mate bec most batteries are design to be stand upright as then all the lead plates are submerged in the acid.

 

So , tis might be one of the reasons my batt not charging properly . Cos its placed lying flat down in the bike .

[limbat]

I guess u must check this with the battery maker ............... cheers

[gohjohan]

I just change my battery recently. But when i rev the volt doesn't increase that much. The volt reading only changes from 12.3v - 12.5v.

 

Someone told me, for the battery to recharge it should be 13.5 when throttle.

 

Is my battery recharging?

 

I was also told by other person that if my battery is not recharging the volt reading will be lower when rev.

 

Any idea what's wrong?

 

 

 

Oic , my batt not charging again , so maybe its the charging system fault n i changed the rectifier not long ago . Now always standby ur ctek in my bike .

 

 

yeah, for the both of you, could be the alternator (or stator coil as some calls it) not charging. Rectifier prevents your battery from overcharging. So if your voltmeter shows more than the specified voltage when rev-ving, means the rectifier gone. Normally the limit is 14.5V. Have to check your service manual to be sure, 'cos my Shadow Aero is 15.5V. That's the spec for mine.

 

Hopefully the coils aren't burn. If it is, then you know why it's not charging.

[himl]

i've just change my rectifier today. Waited damn long for the batt to charge.

now my batt is recharge after rev. But need to standby for meg coil if the batt still not charging enuff.

 

Any idea how much does one cost??

[limbat]

i've just change my rectifier today. Waited damn long for the batt to charge.

now my batt is recharge after rev. But need to standby for meg coil if the batt still not charging enuff.

 

Any idea how much does one cost??

 

Are all meg-coil on bikes similar ?? wat bike u riding ??

[mepkoh]

Bro , heard tat the batt need to be standing upright in order to charge properly . True anot ?

 

i blieve only for liquid type of battery ...

others like gel, agm...etc...i think it is ok..lying whtaever position..

 

spoke to one experienced rider..he said..because of the posibility of spillage he recommends those without the lead acid type..

[Guest stages]

i heard dry cell is better ????

[limbat]

i blieve only for liquid type of battery ...

others like gel, agm...etc...i think it is ok..lying whtaever position..

 

spoke to one experienced rider..he said..because of the posibility of spillage he recommends those without the lead acid type..

 

That will means that the battery have no gap inside - I think u have to check with the battery maker bec i dun think it is possible.

 

Dry or MF (lead acid battery) is a matter of personal preference - as long as the specification is correct then the battery will get the job done efficiently. Then of course comes the question of quality...

Pls note DRY battery as in "AA", "AAA" type battery requires a different charging system....

[himl]

Are all meg-coil on bikes similar ?? wat bike u riding ??

 

hmmm.. i don't tink so. btw i'm riding v-strom 1000k6.

[adesmond2]

sorry bros...

 

check with you guys... my volt meter shows 11.6-12.0 when on my battery... start bike and it raise up to 11.9-12.4... when riding highest is 14.0-14.2 (RPM 7 and above) when on signal and brakes is 11.5-11.9... Btw, my head lights is on all the time by default... feeling weird as i see that, first time install my voltmeter it's reading at 12.4 (min).

 

Is my battery going to die? & how do it see it from my voltmeter if it's dying... I need more advise... thanks...

[limbat]

Your VM reading on start is kinda low - mine will show 12.5/12.6. After starting it will rise to 13 plus after abt 30sec. When riding it is abt 14.2/14.3v. Dun seem to be anything wrong with your battery - have u tried charging it & see the reading after a full charge. Best guess is your headlights - a;ways on so draining yr battery from start. I did notice b4 my battery kaput on me the VM has a veri high reading during rides abt almost 15-16v.. After changing to a new battery all the VM reading is back to as above.

[adesmond2]

sorry bros...

 

check with you guys... my volt meter shows 11.6-12.0 when on my battery... start bike and it raise up to 11.9-12.4... when riding highest is 14.0-14.2 (RPM 7 and above) when on signal and brakes is 11.5-11.9... Btw, my head lights is on all the time by default... feeling weird as i see that, first time install my voltmeter it's reading at 12.4 (min).

 

Is my battery going to die? & how do it see it from my voltmeter if it's dying... I need more advise... thanks...

 

reason of asking is because, my VM shows the same as yours.. but it changes after I've install a new alarm... min (12.4)... while riding W/O alarm last time... 14.4(Max) Now W/Alarm 14.1(Max), any idea if It's normal or anything wrong??

 

Your VM reading on start is kinda low - mine will show 12.5/12.6. After starting it will rise to 13 plus after abt 30sec. When riding it is abt 14.2/14.3v. Dun seem to be anything wrong with your battery - have u tried charging it & see the reading after a full charge. Best guess is your headlights - a;ways on so draining yr battery from start. I did notice b4 my battery kaput on me the VM has a veri high reading during rides abt almost 15-16v.. After changing to a new battery all the VM reading is back to as above.

 

hmmm, my readings all shown below average... scare dying.. thus need more advise and i've install VM and 2 way alarm recently.. & is intending to get some LEDs on my bike soon...

[limbat]

Aiiyooooooo dun worry laaaaaaaa u are jus using more DC electricity lorrr......... conserve by switch off the headlights b4 u stop or start should do the trick............

[spaiduhz]

Actually, it is a charging system problem - the rectifier maybe the cause, Most bikers call the bike charging system ( alternator & dynamo ) a rectifier.

 

would that be a "magneto coil"?

[limbat]

Yes, that would be part of the bike charging system ............

[gohjohan]

sorry bros...

 

check with you guys... my volt meter shows 11.6-12.0 when on my battery... start bike and it raise up to 11.9-12.4... when riding highest is 14.0-14.2 (RPM 7 and above) when on signal and brakes is 11.5-11.9... Btw, my head lights is on all the time by default... feeling weird as i see that, first time install my voltmeter it's reading at 12.4 (min).

 

Is my battery going to die? & how do it see it from my voltmeter if it's dying... I need more advise... thanks...

 

Dun worry mine too. It's normal 'cos the wire for voltmeter has some resistance, so the reading can be 0.5v to 0.8v off. My Faris voltmeter is also off by 0.7v but I'm not worried 'cos I tested it with my multimeter connected directly to the battery to double check.

 

Your battery isn't going to die. If I can push my battery to 4 years by getting it re-cond, I think yours can survive too.

[cyben76]

For me i use a RC charger to charge and condition all my batts... be it AAA, AA, C, D, NiMh, NiCd, Li Po, PB.. My bike battery, car battery, RC battery, Cordless drill battery.. All maintained and condition by one charger...

 

I find it more worth it to buy one charger that can charge everything rather then one that can charge on 12 volt.

 

Most of the RC charger, be it for remote control planes, cars, etc.. are more advance then 12 volt specific chargers... Cos i an RC race, performace of the batt is critical, even every single cell in a battery pack is closely matched to get peak performace.. FYI, PB lead acid batt ( bike/car batt MF or non MF) got 6 cell inside, 2 volt per cell.. 12 volt total...

 

I use this: http://www.electrifly.com/chargers/gpmm3153.html , its below $150 if not wrong, use to own $300-500 charger that have readouts for all the charging cycle that can upload to PC to store and monitor performance, but that one cant charge LiPo (Lithium Polymer) and PB (Lead Acid).

 

Make ur own battery tray or connectors and every batt u can find u can charge... Sad thing abt this charger cant charge gel batt yet... High end ones u can just upgrade the firmware to charge a specific batts... Latest batt now is A123

[adesmond2]

Dun worry mine too. It's normal 'cos the wire for voltmeter has some resistance, so the reading can be 0.5v to 0.8v off. My Faris voltmeter is also off by 0.7v but I'm not worried 'cos I tested it with my multimeter connected directly to the battery to double check.

 

Your battery isn't going to die. If I can push my battery to 4 years by getting it re-cond, I think yours can survive too.

 

errr. i never recondition my battery so far as mine is dry cells one...

 

so how?? does that affect as well? Seen a date stated on the battery that's 2 years ago...

[limbat]

Your " DRY" cell battery is lead-acid ornot, if so pls have it recondition - sure can last longer...........

[adesmond2]

ooo... got diff ar?... never really go and see.. keke.. okok.. Will go and take a look.. btw, recondition need $$$ bo? o.O