[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

[Nemesis]

woah! its like being in a court room. " you shall tell d truth n nothing but d truth.. bla3" ... anywayz talking about laws, is it LEGAL or NOT to be listening to mp3s while riding?? some say its legal while others say not. i havent write this to TP yet.....

 

Better DUN....

 

There a saying... "DUN HIT THE GRASS AND WAKEn THE SNAKE"

 

you know what i mean

[Nemesis]

Bro use ur alarm la....

 

 

 

Ya loh here alot of malay will play wid ur bike, i on alarm still got ppl will go let go air of my front tire. Damn angry la... Fire our side here got alot of them like to go the carpark to play skateboard 1, so on alarm also must be alert loh, like yesterday 2.50am i heard alarm then i went to the carpark try to catch but cannot see any1 there...

 

SilverBoi,

 

Kindly please be more tactical in your posting when come to racial issue. I understand your point of view. Why not put it in a "open" manner as not to offend some of our pulsarian here.

 

Thank you for your understanding...

 

Regards

Nemesis

[Nemesis]

hmmm... i now using sprocket size 38 for my bike. good cruising speed with minimal vibrations. tested my top speed so many times today but still cannot break into 120km/hr. seems like the highest will still be 110km/hr after which will slowly crawl bit by bit. but the best thing is 4th gear can easily reach almost to 90km/hr.

 

but a bit not happy leh. i sacrificed my pickup but then why my max speed never increase? still the same. rpm is around 6-7 at 110kmh. maybe can try changing jet size but that will only mean lower fc. sigh... how to gain higher speed without sacrificing much fc? apart from losing weight.

 

forget about hitting that target... bro.

 

Our puslar top speed is 120km/h. due to the regulation in singapore, i suspect that there will be sort of a power cut device in our bike.

Changing of sprocket doesn't make ur bike go faster at top end. it onli shift the ratio as not to let your engine to be stress at high speed (in pulsar term)

 

FYI, traveling at 110km/h is consider 130km/h to other bike like the kup. And please remember that TP is luking around the corner... becareful

 

If you want to hit 120km/h

1) Check your riding posture

2) aero dynamic is a must.

3) NO box is allow behind

4) Bike must be light.

[Nemesis]

Look for Nemesis la bro. He part time sales man... kekeke....

 

nemesis pt salesman? wat does he sell ..?? hmm........

 

har... i sell nothing except help people to design their home.

IN term of pulsar... i onli help out...

[Nemesis]

ermm.. bro nemesis.. that time saw u park your bike at lorong.. but dun knwo why u keep droping your coins on the floor withou bending your knees and pick it up and keep on repeating it....heee *joking only ah, bruder*

 

[Nemesis]

yoz roady...

 

My bike face the same fate as ur.... just went for top overhauled yesterday..

Tappet's roller bearing smash up... roller bearing drop into downward.. injure the piston and the block... pay a huge bomb to have it repair:sweat:

 

just to check with you... did you did something special to ur engine ???

[GoofRider]

Estimated price before haggling:

 

T10 socket = $3

Wide angle T10 = $15

Very Bright and flat T10 is $22 for blue and $35 for white. The other widely available colour is amber. Did not see any red, green, pink, etc.. for T10.. but LEDs wise got all colours available.. even the changing rainbow LED

 

 

this price is in a pair or jus one....?

 

yea ley i think i need to buy two T10 socket...

[SC Gaban]

Stock sprocket is design for indian road...

1) Good at low end..

2) High end is onli 60-70km/h

3) standard rpm at 90-100km/h will be nearly hit the red zone...

4) Engine will be very stress during the cruising time.

5) you will feel that the whole bike vibrate alot...

 

When you go more than 70km/h... your engine will be stress cause it take more power to turn the sprocket.

 

Down size sprocket, purpose to transfer certain percentage of the low end to high end... meaning

1) NOt so powerful at pickup (Low-end)

2) Good for cruising at 90km/h or more..

3) Lower RPM reading

4) Engine stress is not at cruising time but at pickup time.

5) less vibration cause the engine not stress..

6) with size 37 sprocket, at 7k rpm the speed will be at 95-98km/h

 

Theory of sprocket is like cycling a mountain bike... The bigger the sprocket.. the more you need to paddle for speed... easy at pickup... the smaller the sprocket... the fastest you go...

 

Changing of tires etc Battlax. will also affect ur bike...

1) With Stock sprocket and battlax, 90km/h confirm hit the redzone

2) With size 38 sprocket and battlaz... the 90km/h's rpm will be same as stock.

 

Please take note...

 

 

yes, it hapen 2 e be4 i changed my spocs. wen i change frm stock 2 battlez, the bike stress increase due 2 d new tires i guess (90km/h reach d deadly red zone) after a few months changed d spocs n walah! can go Thailand oredy!hahahaha!!!

[GoofRider]

yoz roady...

 

My bike face the same fate as ur.... just went for top overhauled yesterday..

Tappet's roller bearing smash up... roller bearing drop into downward.. injure the piston and the block... pay a huge bomb to have it repair:sweat:

 

just to check with you... did you did something special to ur engine ???

 

care to share, bruder.. what due to this tragedy.. i know my bike one day also kena like this... my bike reaching 3 years liao... old man already

[weswes]

Does any one know, If i wanna go Vivo, where can i park my bike?

If i'm not wrong, both vivo and harbourfront centre cannot park bikes right?

[stanco]

Does any one know, If i wanna go Vivo, where can i park my bike?

If i'm not wrong, both vivo and harbourfront centre cannot park bikes right?

 

can park, but you got to pay. can also park across vivo (near the bus interchange there, but it's an open carpark and it's very hard to find a place there)

[SC Gaban]

Does any one know, If i wanna go Vivo, where can i park my bike?

If i'm not wrong, both vivo and harbourfront centre cannot park bikes right?

 

 

can, its free if u park at mscp at vivo. a went der a lot of times. just folo d taxi entrance n keep to ur left.

[weswes]

can park, but you got to pay. can also park across vivo (near the bus interchange there, but it's an open carpark and it's very hard to find a place there)

 

can, its free if u park at mscp at vivo. a went der a lot of times. just folo d taxi entrance n keep to ur left.

 

okok.. Thanks very much you guys..

[stanco]

can, its free if u park at mscp at vivo. a went der a lot of times. just folo d taxi entrance n keep to ur left.

 

you haven't been there since oct right? they already start charging liao. $1 for the first 3 hours. every additional dollar for every hour after that.

 

anyway guys, can check this thread to know where is free, where need to pay. a good thread to bookmark!

[proradar1]

yup... vivo start charing quite recently...thats a very useful thread which I bookmarked very long le...

[Mrace]

NBW 2008 National Motorcycle Convoy

 

Dear Pulsarian....

 

Kindly please attended the convoy.... I need figure...

 

1) Nemesis

2) pokvin

3) SC Gaban

4) warhorse6901

5) Totalpet

6) Wavy (tentatively, re-confirm closer to date)

7) M|rac|e (Hope i wont get claim.. )

[SC Gaban]

WAAAATT!!!??? they imposed parking charges?? WTF??!! welll... not so surprise though ... ya nvr been der 4 3 months...

[mjbs64]

today is another boring day..

 

took out my spark plugs to clean.. unfortunately.. dropped one of them and it landed on its tip.. zzz... cannot use liao.. heng i got spare ones but of a different brand.. noticed that the tip is sharper! maybe suggest that spark is more ready to happen

 

but post my 2-month old spark plugs here see if got expert help to diagnose see anything wrong with my combustion

 

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg243/cardleh/Image000-2.jpghttp://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg243/cardleh/Image001.jpg

 

 

 

 

To All

 

 

READING PLUGS

Examining the tips of the spark plugs as they are removed can reveal a great deal about the health and performance of an engine. The appearance and color of the deposits can reveal other problems that may need fixing:

 

* Normal deposits-light brown or tan colored.

 

* Fuel fouled-black fluffy carbon deposits indicate an overly rich fuel mixture or possibly a weak spark. Check for such things as a stuck choke, a heavy or misadjusted carburetor float, a leaky needle valve in the carburetor, leaky injectors, low coil output or high resistance in the plug wires. Wet plug-a wet plug means the plug has not been firing. If not due to engine flooding, the problem may be a bad ignition cable (excessive resistance, shorted or arcing). But wet fouling can also be caused by dirt or moisture on the outside of the plug that provides a conductive path to ground, or by an internal crack in the ceramic insulator that shorts the plug to ground.

 

* Oil fouled-heavy black deposits with an oily appearance. These are the result of oil entering in the combustion chamber, probably past worn valve guides, guide seals or rings. Switching to a hotter plug may help prolong plug life somewhat, but no plug will survive long under such conditions. The only permanent cure to this condition is to fix the oil consumption problem.

 

* Glazed plug-yellowish melted appearing deposits on the insulator tip that result from high temperature operation. The engine may be running too hot (check for cooling problems), the EGR valve may be inoperative and/or the heat range of the plug may be too hot for the application. Switching to a cooler plug may be necessary if no other problems are found. Damaged plug-if the electrodes have been smashed flat or broken, somebody put the wrong plug in the engine. A plug that protrudes too far into the combustion chamber may hit the piston or a valve. Always follow the plug manufacturer's application recommendations when selecting replacement plugs to prevent this kind of problem.

 

* Overheating-if the insulator is blistered, white and free from deposits, something is making the plug run too hot. If the plug's heat range is not too hot for the application, check for cooling problems, incorrect ignition timing or a lean fuel mixture.

 

* Melted electrode-a symptom of severe preignition. The plug has been running too hot for a long time (see overheating above). This can be very damaging and may burn a hole through the top of a piston!

 

* Detonation-if the insulator is split or chipped, detonation (spark knock) may be occurring in the engine. The underlying cause here might be an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, excessive compression due to accumulated deposits in the combustion chamber, or engine overheating.

[mjbs64]

SHOULD YOU REPLACE YOUR SPARK PLUGS?

 

One of the leading causes of hard starting is fouled or worn spark plugs. When a fuel injected engine that normally starts quite easily has to be coaxed to life, it often means the plugs are overdue for a change. As the electrodes wear, the voltage required to jump the gap and ignite the fuel mixture goes up. At the same time, accumulated deposits on the insulator can drain off voltage before it even has a chance to form a spark. So the engine fails to start or starts only reluctantly after prolonged cranking.

 

Spark plug sales take off when cold weather arrives is because many motorists put off changing the plugs until they absolutely have to. The vehicle manufacturer's recommendations to change the plugs every 30,000 miles for preventative maintenance are ignored, so the plugs continue to rack up mile after mile until they've deteriorated to the point where they're causing noticeable driveability problems.

 

Emission checks will catch a lot of bad plugs and force motorists to change plugs that need to be replaced. But in areas where emission checks are not required, the only incentives for changing the plugs are the driveability problems created by the plugs themselves. So many motorists today think they're saving money on maintenance by putting off a plug change until it's obvious the engine needs new plugs. Then and only then will they begrudgingly spend any money on a new set of plugs.

[mjbs64]

ABOUT PLUGS

As we've already said, the spark plugs are the business end of the ignition system. Whether an engine has a conventional distributor or a direct ignition (distributorless) system, a good set of plugs is absolutely essential for peak performance.

 

The typical spark plug needs anywhere from 5,000 to 25,000 volts from the ignition coil before it will fire. The exact firing voltage depends on:

 

* Plug gap-the wider the gap, the higher the voltage required. The gap must be set to specs for good ignition performance.

 

* Electrode condition-wear increase voltage requirements. Fouled electrodes may not fire at all!

 

* Engine load-higher load increases voltage needed. If the plugs are worn or gapped to wide, they may misfire under load.

 

* Resistance-electrical resistance in the plugs and wires increases voltage required. Replacing worn, damaged or loose fitting plug wires is recommended for improving ignition reliability.

 

* Operating temperature-a cold plug requires more voltage to fire than a hot one.

 

Reliable ignition, therefore, requires a hot spark from the coil, good plug wires to carry the juice, and spark plugs that are clean, in good condition and gapped properly. If any of these criteria are not met, the spark may not reach it intended destination causing the engine to misfire.

 

One way to tell if the plugs need changing is to look at a vehicle's odometer. If it's been more than the recommended number of miles (usually 30,000 - 60,000) since the plugs were last changed, it's time for a new set.

[mjbs64]

WHY CHANGE 'EM?

What motorists need to be told today is why the plugs should be replaced according to their vehicle manufacturer's scheduled maintenance recommendations be it every 30,000 miles, or 60,000 to 100,000 miles in the case of long life plugs. So here are three good reasons why the plugs need to be changed:

 

REASON #1: New plugs maintain peak engine performance and efficiency. Every engine will misfire occasionally. But as the number of misfires per mile goes up over time, it increases exhaust emissions, wastes gas and reduces power. In the past, most motorist wouldn't notice the gradual decline in ignition performance until it reached a point where it created a steady miss, caused the engine to run rough, buck or stall, or made it hard to start. Not so today. All 1996 and newer vehicles have an OBD II onboard diagnostic system that tracks ignition misfires. When the rate of misfires exceeds a certain limit and causes emissions to increase 50% over baseline levels, it illuminates a warning light. Too bad every vehicle doesn't have this watchdog system onboard. Since they don't, the next best thing you can do is replace the plugs for preventive maintenance BEFORE they deteriorate to the point where misfires become a problem and create problems.

 

A new set of plugs isn't a cure-all for driveability and emissions problems, but in many cases a plug change can make a significant improvement. Changing the plugs can reduce hydrocarbon (HC) emissions up to several hundred parts per million, which may make the difference between failing and passing an emissions test.

 

REASON #2: New plugs improve cold starting. Bad plugs are often responsible for many cold weather "no start" service calls. Many times the battery has been run dead while cranking the engine because the plugs wouldn't light the fire. When the old plugs are removed and examined, they are often found to be worn or dirty. New plugs reduce the voltage requirements on the ignition system, which decreases the chance of misfire while leaving more amps for the starter and injectors.

 

Wet fouled plugs can also prevent an engine from starting, but in many instances the fouling problem has nothing to do with plug wear or neglect. If an engine is flooded with fuel while it is being cranked, gasoline can soak the plugs and bleed off the ignition voltage before it forms a spark. Wet fouling tends to be more common on older vehicles that have carburetors because pumping the gas pedal can easily flood the engine with too much fuel. Flooding can also occur if the choke sticks, the float is set too high or the needle valve leaks. On fuel injected engines, wet fouling is less of a problem but can happen if a cold start injector leaks or there's a fuel calibration problem that creates an overly rich startup mixture. The cure in all cases is to wait for the plugs to dry out, or to remove the plugs and clean or replace them.

 

REASON #3: New plugs minimize the risk of catalytic converter failure. A single misfiring plug can dump enough raw fuel into the exhaust to overheat and damage the converter. The presence of higher than normal quantities of unburned gasoline in the exhaust will cause the operating temperature of the converter to soar, which may lead to a partial of complete meltdown of the converter's substrate. This, in turn, may form a partial restriction or complete blockage in the exhaust that creates enormous backpressure and chokes off the engine's ability to exhale. The engine may lack power, especially at higher speeds, and deliver terrible fuel economy. Or, it may stall and refuse to run after it is first started. Replacing the converter will solve the restriction problem. But unless the plugs are replaced, the new converter may soon die from the same ailment.

[mjbs64]

Hi GUYS

 

Apologise if the post are toooo long. Just to share with all of you only.

 

As the post concerned with all vehicles PLEASE do check with our Pulsar manual guide for maintenace of our spark plugs...

 

 

spark plug gap .. once every 750, 2,500, 5,000

replace spark plug.. once every 10,000

[SC Gaban]

Hi GUYS

 

Apologise if the post are toooo long. Just to share with all of you only.

 

As the post concerned with all vehicles PLEASE do check with our Pulsar manual guide for maintenace of our spark plugs...

 

 

spark plug gap .. once every 750, 2,500, 5,000

replace spark plug.. once every 10,000

 

roger ..roger...

[Roadrunner71]

yoz roady...

 

My bike face the same fate as ur.... just went for top overhauled yesterday..

Tappet's roller bearing smash up... roller bearing drop into downward.. injure the piston and the block... pay a huge bomb to have it repair:sweat:

 

just to check with you... did you did something special to ur engine ???

No leh. So wat reason did UM's 'expert' mechs give for ur engine prob?

 

care to share, bruder.. what due to this tragedy.. i know my bike one day also kena like this... my bike reaching 3 years liao... old man already

It's just a matter of fate lah bro. I never whack my bike and feed the engine with expensive poison (Maxima) but still end up overhauling it.

 

To me, UM's mechs couldn't find the cause for my engine prob. Every possible cause that they could think of didn't apply to me. So they end up taking me for a moron and started telling me crap as to why my engine failed. On hindsight, I should have recorded wat they told me. U'd be amazed too .....

[spaiduhz]

Does any one know, If i wanna go Vivo, where can i park my bike?

If i'm not wrong, both vivo and harbourfront centre cannot park bikes right?

 

just park at vivo lar

 

first 3 hours $1 subsequent hours $1 irregardless of time or day.

 

try not to park more than 3 hours.