[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

[HVC]

HVC,

 

The HID have been successfully install before in UG3. In my record and research, there are only 2 pulsar with HID light. One is unknown and another one is me. Check back past record in this thread, u find me warning other user from install HID.

 

Even if you manage to install the HID, it is matter of time before your head faring MELTS. That damage will cost you estimate 95 buck each time it melts.

 

Secondly, There a big different in the electronic structure in different version of pulsar. Those UG2 use less voltage then UG3 and above. With 10.6V reading, electronic start is possible. but with latter version, 11++V is needed to start the bike.

 

Third, Our bike have been design in such a way that, voltage with AMP is assigned according to different area of our bike. Our Headlight is assigned with 12DC/ 3.5amp. Our battery itself is 12dc 9amp. The ECU that control the voltage come from the box behind your meter.

 

Fourth, the comsuption of the HID is taking up way to much current. It drain up the battery even faster. Normal riding, our magnetic coil & rectifty cannot even replenish the battery voltage and it causing extreme stress to the coil and rectifty. Test have been carry out during the ride up to thailand, hatyai.

I can only on the HID for less than 20min before my volt reading reaches 14.3V to 11.5V and off again to charges my battery for another 20mins before i can activate my HID again.

 

Fifth, BIG Capacitor have been added to my battery. It doesn't solve the problem but it delayed the drainage of the battery. Regardless install to battery direct or to rectifty direct. Same problem still appear.

 

Last, Even if all problem is been settled and Installation is success... Dun forget... Our head faring can only withstand 35/35W bulb head.. Somthing which look like H4 but not H4 bulb. check the prev posting. Anything that above that will cause the head faring to fry. Try to check your chrome reflective faring, direct above the bulb. see if there any sign of burn or melt.

 

 

Regards

Nemesis....

 

Thank you bro

[alvinyansg]

Sorry O'ren did not come for the event today

my stuff ended very late and i was tired so went to take a short nap at home

and i only woke up from my nap at 7.40pm

 

 

 

But if it works' date=' even if it has stains, why would you change it ?[/quote']

 

its not about if it works or not

more of if it is not my fault that cause the stain then if something happens and becasue of the stain i can't claim my warr

so i am is suppose to pay the $150(w/o GST),$160.50(w GST) when the IU needs to be replaced

when in the 1st place is the installation is not done properly that cause water to sip in and hence the water stain to be there

also one of my screws inside my IU cover also rusted because of water sipping in

 

at 1st i did not complain or anything cos still working and i dunnoe the stain is water stain

when i had my IU problem last friday and went vicom to check on sat then know that it is water stain and warr cannot claim

that is when i start to think back how come water can sip into my IU with the cover closed

it is supposed to keep the water out what...

 

 

Wow, that's more expensive that I expected.. The result is amazing but $120 sounds like a lot.

Glzco how much did you pay for yours ?

 

 

$120 is a ok price

Glzco did his for $100 with 2 blubs and blinking relay

i did my for $80 with 2 blubs without blinking relay

[robbedzombie]

u know previousluy quite a few posts back, u were all tokin about rear shock absorbers. haha want to know if use c spanner and adjust it higher abit will make the bike have more rear sag or lesser sag for preload? at stock position is it the lowest preload?

Edited August 29, 2010 by robbedzombie

[mjbs64]

dat wud be a problem u cant just throw it anywhere like drain. may get clogged up and sorts.

 

anyway anyone here tried in malay, they called it 'tebok' the exhaust. the sound wud be much louder than normal. dn know if inspection or tp can pass or not.

 

if you want your exhuast to be louder

ah teck got tell me that can knock through inside

but dunnoe knock what thing

he say knock liao the sound will be louder

 

yar its knocking something out but dn know can put back or not. have a fren who knocked the exhaust ytd and he said inspection can pass. lets say if knock out inspection fail then cannot fix back then jialat.

 

according to ah teck inspection can pass

think cos its not as loud as our Bajaj Pulsa "Ducati" Ver 200:cheeky:

 

few of the seniors inclusive our Chief Nemesis before had done that ... be it what you want to call it .."tebok" or "knock" ... but truely not sure whether they know or have seen the real inside of the silencer before they do that "tebok".

 

Fyi.. our silencer (p200) have 4 partitions in controlling the sound effect and the free flow besides the glasswool wrapped around it..

But truely I too not sure whether the 4 partitions are the catalytic convertors or not. Happens if you tebok/knock the silencer by force .. it will not give you the best results because that is not the correct way to have the 100% free flow like Kira's CLD pipe which is 100% smooth free flow.

 

To have the 100% smooth free flow, you need to operate from the inside ... removed the silencer and blow torch the partitions to remove the partitions and make a way for 100% free flow. If you managed this then your pipe will be a free flow pipe.. performance will be the same as CLD or R9 pipe.

oh btw too you must removed or plugged the Torque Expansion Chamber (TEC) .. the small box attached to the pipe below the engine.

 

If you just whack/tebok/knock from outside.. imho you are just wasting your time as you can't get 100% optomal performance from the pipe.

 

Best option is to make a new silencer to replace the stock .. that too if you know or understand the length, size and arrangements of the small holes for the silencer ... hehehe

 

More work, more time spent but No Sacrifies No Victory

 

Anyway just to let you know .. our stock pipe for P200 is around $460.

 

How I knew about the inside? .. here the picture of it from our bros at Prides.

 

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp51/Permaisuri_01/Knalpot.jpg

 

[mjbs64]

u know previousluy quite a few posts back, u were all tokin about rear shock absorbers. haha want to know if use c spanner and adjust it higher abit will make the bike have more rear sag or lesser sag for preload? at stock position is it the lowest preload?

 

Our stock have 5 settings for the preload and for the sag it depends on individual rider body mass weight wise with all your riding gears on .. I've posted the link before for a rough guide on how to set your shock. Individuals feeling though ....

 

[robbedzombie]

Our stock have 5 settings for the preload and for the sag it depends on individual rider body mass weight wise with all your riding gears on .. I've posted the link before for a rough guide on how to set your shock. Individuals feeling though ....

 

 

oooohhhh icic. i'm very light person so think just stick to its default lowest position. to each his own:cheeky:

[mjbs64]

oooohhhh icic. i'm very light person so think just stick to its default lowest position. to each his own:cheeky:

 

I think you can try to play at different setting one at a time to have a feel of your Ride ... hmm my a glass of Teh Tarik's value hehe

[robbedzombie]

few of the seniors inclusive our Chief Nemesis before had done that ... be it what you want to call it .."tebok" or "knock" ... but truely not sure whether they know or have seen the real inside of the silencer before they do that "tebok".

 

Fyi.. our silencer (p200) have 4 partitions in controlling the sound effect and the free flow besides the glasswool wrapped around it..

But truely I too not sure whether the 4 partitions are the catalytic convertors or not. Happens if you tebok/knock the silencer by force .. it will not give you the best results because that is not the correct way to have the 100% free flow like Kira's CLD pipe which is 100% smooth free flow.

 

To have the 100% smooth free flow, you need to operate from the inside ... removed the silencer and blow torch the partitions to remove the partitions and make a way for 100% free flow. If you managed this then your pipe will be a free flow pipe.. performance will be the same as CLD or R9 pipe.

oh btw too you must removed or plugged the Torque Expansion Chamber (TEC) .. the small box attached to the pipe below the engine.

 

If you just whack/tebok/knock from outside.. imho you are just wasting your time as you can't get 100% optomal performance from the pipe.

 

Best option is to make a new silencer to replace the stock .. that too if you know or understand the length, size and arrangements of the small holes for the silencer ... hehehe

 

More work, more time spent but No Sacrifies No Victory

 

Anyway just to let you know .. our stock pipe for P200 is around $460.

 

How I knew about the inside? .. here the picture of it from our bros at Prides.

 

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/pp51/Permaisuri_01/Knalpot.jpg

 

 

the question is...by tebok/knock/whack, is there any gain from it, however minute oso? aside from much louder sound. or does it make performance detrimentally worse?

Edited August 29, 2010 by robbedzombie

[mjbs64]

the question is...by tebok/knock/whack, is there any gain from it, however minute oso? aside from much louder sound. or does it make performance detrimentally worse?

 

Reasons given is to have the silencer free flow for top end performance ... by doing that there's always a pros and cons ...

 

gain minimal speed (power) but lose good fc and mileage

 

gain minimal power (speed) but lose max torque (pick up)

 

gain minimal power but still burden the same mass weight (stock pipe is super heavy) .. weight do affect the overall power

 

hmmm maybe Kira care to explain more of the feeling using stock heavy pipe and aftermarket CLD pipe ...

 

gain minimal power but lose money happens your unlucky day inspection fails due to illegal modification of the catalytic converter

 

Edited August 29, 2010 by mjbs64

[robbedzombie]

bajaj claims the tec exhaust adds lower range torque, but a few here had it removed. bro cookiemonster oso got comment that the chamber is like disruption for airflow and create more back pressure. wudnt the exhaust valve be closed when fuel enters the cylinder so the air goes where without return path? ultimately, to those who had the tec removed, any noticibale diff?. i mean isnt it important to have a tuned exhaust. wudnt removing the tec disrupt this 'tuned' setting. woah been asking too many questions already hahaha

Edited August 29, 2010 by robbedzombie

[ORen]

I went to motoworld this Saturday to check out suspension shocks.

 

Obviously the Hyperpro 367/467 series is too expensive (quoted on the web at $1300 - don't know if sgd or usd) and motoworld quoted it "at least $1k" to me.

Anyway, my visit there made me realize a few things :

 

- do extensive research on the web before asking mechanics. ideally the shop should teach you and inform you but I realize, specially for our Pulsars, there's no escaping the fact that as soon as you mention the bike's brand, they're lost or uncomfortable giving accurate info.

 

- make sure you understand how your part works, why you want it, what are the things you need to ask: for shock suspension, there's obviously the price, but also the length, the fixing type (some have rounded heads where you screw a bolt, some need a specific bracket, some are too bulky to fit the Pulsar etc..)

 

These might seem like obvious things, but when you're a newbie and always get answers to your questions by people here, you kind of expect bike shop to do the same, but they don;t really have the knowledge or interest in your bike to inform you properly. One way of going around this is to ask for Honda CB400: I find that when asking for a product/part for the CB400 I get lots of answers and attention. After that it's for me to research if it would fit my Pulsar.

 

So back to the shocks: I wanted to ask those of you who changed them, did you need to DIY an additional bracket or anything to fix them or it was simple plug and play ? I tried to have a look at your pics, but most of the time the exhaust pipe is blocking the lower part of the suspension so I can't tell.

 

There are many types of fixations for shock, a few examples:

 

Rounded Bolt at each side :

http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00NeQEDpyggIqo/Motorcycle-Shock-Absorber-QH-06-.jpg

 

Rounded on top, 2 forks on bottom side:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/OG/0000-Progressive-Suspension-465-Series-Shocks.jpg

 

Some are even different with a specific bolt/screw type, so when considering changing your forks you have to keep in mind the specifics of mounting, size and height of the new shocks you'd like to install. On top of the price which I found is the element that will always guide your choice as the range of prices starts usually around $300 to 1k++ with very little option in between.

[SC Gaban]

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs428.snc4/47080_1563633338122_1454033989_31526304_7217337_n.jpg

[HVC]

bajaj claims the tec exhaust adds lower range torque, but a few here had it removed. bro cookiemonster oso got comment that the chamber is like disruption for airflow and create more back pressure. wudnt the exhaust valve be closed when fuel enters the cylinder so the air goes where without return path? ultimately, to those who had the tec removed, any noticibale diff?. i mean isnt it important to have a tuned exhaust. wudnt removing the tec disrupt this 'tuned' setting. woah been asking too many questions already hahaha

 

my advise to you or anyone is not to mess with stock parts..especially exhaust and carburettor. Reason being both is expensive and when u need that stock back in case of emergency for example..

 

Carburettor - People who dont know much about modification or want to save on buying another aftermarket n different size carburettor would PORT their STOCK carb to their desired size or sometimes port without measurements(personal experiences with JB mechs who follow 'feel' instead of proper measurements) so after had fun with mod bike..want to revert back to all stock condition n wanna go to that fuel economy route..simply cant..coz the carb ported? n even with the smallest jetting size..the settings wont be as before n u wont save fuel like before..so save side is to buy another aftermarket carburettor.

 

Exhaust Pipe - Tampering pipe is illegal and will cost u $500 if the stock pipe is tampered (internal mod to the pipe). Aftermarket/freeflow/illegal exhaust cost u $750. If u use aftermarket pipe...u get caught u pay $750 only n revert back to your stock exhaust n go inspection..end here. If u use tampered pipe..u will need to pay $500..buy another pipe $460?..how much already? then still must go inspection. Again, tampered pipe u will lose out on fuel consumption..even abit is still a loss. But if you are daring enough(im not challenging u..haha) might as well get aftermarket pipe..more satisfaction in terms of performance and sound..ohh..and also looks good too.

 

Just my 2 centz..its not worth it tampering or modding your stock parts..it is best to change it to aftermarket ones. Keep the stock at home in case of anything.

 

Good morning and have a good day bro

[speedaddict]

how was btmo yest? any pics?

[arthur_chan]

I tried to DIY and bought a spanner of the right size. But the EO drain screw is located in a tricky position so the normal spanner wont work. The cross shaped spanner is needed that is used to open car wheels, damn! Finally, I returned the spanner.

 

no need cross, use a straight with a cap like head for the screw.

[arthur_chan]

how was btmo yest? any pics?

 

i think nobody turned up.

[alvinyansg]

no need cross, use a straight with a cap like head for the screw.

 

i think what he means is a T-bar tool...

or can use a extension for a normal rachet to reach the bolt

[arthur_chan]

i think what he means is a T-bar tool...

or can use a extension for a normal rachet to reach the bolt

 

i know, and it's not necessary, a straight will do and it can easily kept under the seat.

 

i'm not sure how ur rachet looks, but it needs at least an angle to turn the bolt. the bolt is quite tight, need some leverage to turn also. a spanner is definately impossisble.

[Orleng]

O'Ren! Like your rims and drum! Why never spray the sinnob to gold also? Heh heh.

 

Was in UM relaxing when your call came. They were down to fixing up the tyres back n all. Man, they even sprayed the rubber damper for the hub. lol.

[alvinyansg]

O'Ren! Like your rims and drum! Why never spray the sinnob to gold also? Heh heh.

 

Was in UM relaxing when your call came. They were down to fixing up the tyres back n all. Man, they even sprayed the rubber damper for the hub. lol.

 

 

haha

haven post pics and her project has been leaked out

waiting to see how the pics

[Orleng]

bajaj claims the tec exhaust adds lower range torque, but a few here had it removed. bro cookiemonster oso got comment that the chamber is like disruption for airflow and create more back pressure. wudnt the exhaust valve be closed when fuel enters the cylinder so the air goes where without return path? ultimately, to those who had the tec removed, any noticibale diff?. i mean isnt it important to have a tuned exhaust. wudnt removing the tec disrupt this 'tuned' setting. woah been asking too many questions already hahaha

 

This below is my personal knowledge and might not be entirely correct, so pelase do take it with a pinch of salt. Also, if I'm wrong, do feel free to make corrections. I'm learning still.

 

Exactly spot on. Intake / Exhaust characteristics are engineered during the design stage and refined during the experimental stage to equip each bike with usable power/torque at different ranges.

 

Length of exhaust header / curvature / shape of expansion chamber, together with airbox shape / intake stack length & curvature (in 2/2A bikes), all combine to deliver optimal performance at a certain RPM range.

 

The exhaust valve is actually open together with the intake valve for a short period of time, otherwise known as valve overlap. During this period (expressed in degrees of rotation), exhaust gases are still evacuating the chamber while fuel/air is coming in the intake valve.

 

Freeflow pipes *may* lead to lean conditions on a stock setup, especially if the bike isn't equipped with ECU and lambda sensor to automatically adjust fuel delivery. Lean conditions *may* cause exhaust valves to burn.

 

Freeflow pipes of too large a diameter can lead to reduced exhaust gas velocity. Lower velocity = less "pull" (scavenging) of the exhaust gases from the exhaust valve. Can rob power lower down in the RPM range.

 

Freeflow pipes of a smaller diameter can lead to lowered peak torque range, e.g. peak torque at 3-4k rpm, vs 5-6k rpm stock (just example), but will sacrifice high end power.

 

Oh yea, as for exhausTEC chamber, spoke to jacky once. He mentioned that for all the rattling and bits n pieces, removing it will reduce the frequency that bits get stuck inside. Also, will LOOSE the 1bhp. I think UG1 doesn't have it and has 1 less bhp compared to UG2 and above.

 

Feel free to discuss! Currently reading up Modern Motorcycle Technology by Massimo Clarke. Damned interesting and helpful read.

 

Also, some interesting links.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=659727

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_product/sue462/backpressuretorquemyth.htm

 

To sum it up. Backpressure is necessary for some stock setups, especially those unable to compensate for freeflow conditions.

[kiraguyver84]

I went to motoworld this Saturday to check out suspension shocks.

 

Obviously the Hyperpro 367/467 series is too expensive (quoted on the web at $1300 - don't know if sgd or usd) and motoworld quoted it "at least $1k" to me.

Anyway, my visit there made me realize a few things :

 

- do extensive research on the web before asking mechanics. ideally the shop should teach you and inform you but I realize, specially for our Pulsars, there's no escaping the fact that as soon as you mention the bike's brand, they're lost or uncomfortable giving accurate info.

 

- make sure you understand how your part works, why you want it, what are the things you need to ask: for shock suspension, there's obviously the price, but also the length, the fixing type (some have rounded heads where you screw a bolt, some need a specific bracket, some are too bulky to fit the Pulsar etc..)

 

These might seem like obvious things, but when you're a newbie and always get answers to your questions by people here, you kind of expect bike shop to do the same, but they don;t really have the knowledge or interest in your bike to inform you properly. One way of going around this is to ask for Honda CB400: I find that when asking for a product/part for the CB400 I get lots of answers and attention. After that it's for me to research if it would fit my Pulsar.

 

So back to the shocks: I wanted to ask those of you who changed them, did you need to DIY an additional bracket or anything to fix them or it was simple plug and play ? I tried to have a look at your pics, but most of the time the exhaust pipe is blocking the lower part of the suspension so I can't tell.

 

There are many types of fixations for shock, a few examples:

 

Rounded Bolt at each side :

http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00NeQEDpyggIqo/Motorcycle-Shock-Absorber-QH-06-.jpg

 

Rounded on top, 2 forks on bottom side:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/ProductImages/OG/0000-Progressive-Suspension-465-Series-Shocks.jpg

 

Some are even different with a specific bolt/screw type, so when considering changing your forks you have to keep in mind the specifics of mounting, size and height of the new shocks you'd like to install. On top of the price which I found is the element that will always guide your choice as the range of prices starts usually around $300 to 1k++ with very little option in between.

 

Sweet Stuff u got there.

 

Don forget anyone needs my SHOWA shock damper going for 300dollars

[alvinyansg]

Sweet Stuff u got there.

 

Don forget anyone needs my SHOWA shock damper going for 300dollars

 

 

haha

take a chance to advertise:cheeky:

[kiraguyver84]

haha

take a chance to advertise:cheeky:

 

Yeah Yeah

 

 

Bro U wan got special deal de

[kiraguyver84]

O ya anyone want to try e pipe do msg me I do not mind, better than leaving it at home collecting dust