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[Technical] Possible Solutions to your Phantom's Problem


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Hmm right fork seal is gone. Oil leaking so bad, its flowing down my fork lower. However mine is a 2nd gen TA200, the fork with metal covers to make it look bigger. Is there any way to take them off to have a look?

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

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Hmm right fork seal is gone. Oil leaking so bad, its flowing down my fork lower. However mine is a 2nd gen TA200, the fork with metal covers to make it look bigger. Is there any way to take them off to have a look?

 

eh, the fork covers looked like they were fitted on before the fork seals and the whole spring / piston assembly go on..

doesnt look like you can look at it that easily leh.. i may be wrong about that though..

 

Yup thanks alot sawfly!

 

no prob about that! btw, i've finally changed my oil drain plug to a 17mm one.. then i successfully rounded off it again with a 12 point box spannerso unless i find a flat 6 point box spanner.. does anyone know where i can get such a spanner in neighbourhood area instead of going to special hardware shops?

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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eh, the fork covers looked like they were fitted on before the fork seals and the whole spring / piston assembly go on..

doesnt look like you can look at it that easily leh.. i may be wrong about that though..

 

 

 

no prob about that! btw, i've finally changed my oil drain plug to a 17mm one.. then i successfully rounded off it again with a 12 point box spannerso unless i find a flat 6 point box spanner.. does anyone know where i can get such a spanner in neighbourhood area instead of going to special hardware shops?

 

Oh man doesnt sound good to me.

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

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Can use adjustable spanner?

 

rounded liao leh.. use adjustable one will round it further.. and its already bad mechanical practise.. =l I used everything from a 6 point hex socket, adjustable wrench, vice grips and even hammering with a sharp point.. :banghead:

 

and I found that the gear shift lever was actually safety wired at the first joint connecting to the gear change shaft.. is this the same on other bikes? I broke that wire while trying to whack out the oil cap and have to use a safety clip for the moment.. ::what:

 

 

Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk 2

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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try hammering with a screwdriver again. i think thats ur best bet for now. grind or file a notch to get some grip for the screwdriver tip.

 

and if u manage to get it off, rmb to use a 6 point hex socket nxt time. btw i suspect u are overtightening it. i rmb i got use normal cheap 12-point wrench and no issues with rounding. rmb got a rubber o-ring. it seals not based on hw tight the cap is. once u tighten until it stop, just nudge it abit more. thats more than enough. AND if u are paranoid, u can add teflon plumbing tape around the thread for the cap as well. will prevent seizure as well as not having to worry it will leak if undertighten.

A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

:thumb:

 

2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i

 

Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim

 

 

SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

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try hammering with a screwdriver again. i think thats ur best bet for now. grind or file a notch to get some grip for the screwdriver tip.

 

and if u manage to get it off, rmb to use a 6 point hex socket nxt time. btw i suspect u are overtightening it. i rmb i got use normal cheap 12-point wrench and no issues with rounding. rmb got a rubber o-ring. it seals not based on hw tight the cap is. once u tighten until it stop, just nudge it abit more. thats more than enough. AND if u are paranoid, u can add teflon plumbing tape around the thread for the cap as well. will prevent seizure as well as not having to worry it will leak if undertighten.

 

the hammer technique is the probably the last thing i'll try before i go to the mech in a week's time.. not very willing to use so much brute force on the plug cos if **** happens i wouldnt be able to deal with it even though i still have my rounded 23mm plug..in my case now the 12 point box spanner isnt even gripping in the first place and my 6 point hex socket doesnt seem to bite on even.

 

u might be right about the overtightening, cos over the past year when i had this bike, i always had to torque the plug a lil more cos everytime the same mech does the oil change, there will be some oil drops coming out after a while unless i torque it down.

maybe the o-ring needs to be replaced this time, despite the guy telling me that i dont really have to replace it as long its still supple. the teflon tape is a good idea for anti-seize though!

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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the hammer technique is the probably the last thing i'll try before i go to the mech in a week's time.. not very willing to use so much brute force on the plug cos if **** happens i wouldnt be able to deal with it even though i still have my rounded 23mm plug..in my case now the 12 point box spanner isnt even gripping in the first place and my 6 point hex socket doesnt seem to bite on even.

 

u might be right about the overtightening, cos over the past year when i had this bike, i always had to torque the plug a lil more cos everytime the same mech does the oil change, there will be some oil drops coming out after a while unless i torque it down.

maybe the o-ring needs to be replaced this time, despite the guy telling me that i dont really have to replace it as long its still supple. the teflon tape is a good idea for anti-seize though!

 

Might be your O-ring harden alr, thats why you need to "over tighten" it. I guess you just need change the nut and new O-ring will do. :)

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

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Yes change the o-ring. Mine was also dripping initially. When checked, it was super flat already. Its probably good for maybe 3-4 uses. After that, just change it for peace of mind. So cheap.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

A ride a day, keeps the doctor away!

:thumb:

 

2010-2012 : Honda Phantom TA200

2012-current : SYM Maxsym 400i

 

Youtube Channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/adiknaim

 

 

SG Maxsym FB Group: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sgmaxsym/

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Might be your O-ring harden alr, thats why you need to "over tighten" it. I guess you just need change the nut and new O-ring will do. :)

 

Yes change the o-ring. Mine was also dripping initially. When checked, it was super flat already. Its probably good for maybe 3-4 uses. After that, just change it for peace of mind. So cheap.

 

 

totally make sense! i'll just replace the plug and o-ring when im free! thanks for the foresight on this!

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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Hey guys, just wondering, does any of your bikes make a loud clunk sound when you shut down your engine? I just turn off the engine, the engine dies and there's this "kong" clunking sound. I read somewhere it says the starter clutch is dead. There have also been some moments where my bike did not even crank when its switched on. There's some activity going on when i press the cranking button (indicated by dimming of the Neutral gear light), but starter motor did not engage.

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

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Hey guys, just wondering, does any of your bikes make a loud clunk sound when you shut down your engine? I just turn off the engine, the engine dies and there's this "kong" clunking sound. I read somewhere it says the starter clutch is dead. There have also been some moments where my bike did not even crank when its switched on. There's some activity going on when i press the cranking button (indicated by dimming of the Neutral gear light), but starter motor did not engage.

 

the kong sound appears normal it seems. for the cranking, did you hear the starter motor turn over? sometimes starter motor spin but never engage the flywheel i.e. the engine never turn over as a result.

in this case your starter clutch is not engaging, so have to service that part.

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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the kong sound appears normal it seems. for the cranking, did you hear the starter motor turn over? sometimes starter motor spin but never engage the flywheel i.e. the engine never turn over as a result.

in this case your starter clutch is not engaging, so have to service that part.

 

Didnt even spin. Lol. But happens once every blue moon, extremely rare.

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

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Didnt even spin. Lol. But happens once every blue moon, extremely rare.

 

then try looking at the issue electrically? my one got one time behaved like yrs.. i.e. didnt crank or spin until i clutched in.. once i cleaned the neutral detector near the front sprocket the issue went away..

 

btw i'm having starter clutch issues. every morning at least once or twice motor spins but engine never crank. even more awkward is the moment i turned off the headlight usually it will work. hmm.

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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then try looking at the issue electrically? my one got one time behaved like yrs.. i.e. didnt crank or spin until i clutched in.. once i cleaned the neutral detector near the front sprocket the issue went away..

 

btw i'm having starter clutch issues. every morning at least once or twice motor spins but engine never crank. even more awkward is the moment i turned off the headlight usually it will work. hmm.

 

For yours unfortunately i couldnt help, no idea about it. Maybe send to a shop and ask? Haha but more or less shld be the starter clutch dodgy. Mine i shall see again haha.

2B - 29 December 2010, one time pass

2A - On going...

 

4 May 2011 to August 2011 - Honda NSR150SP

21 July 2012 - Honda Phantom TA200

 

http://thrumylensontwowheels.blogspot.sg/

 

Nikon D5000 | AF-S DX Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5 - 5.6G VR | Vitacon 67mm UV Filter | Sigma EF-610 DG Super Flash | Yongnuo Speedlight YN560

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For yours unfortunately i couldnt help, no idea about it. Maybe send to a shop and ask? Haha but more or less shld be the starter clutch dodgy. Mine i shall see again haha.

 

it is the starter clutch issue. my mech tell me to turn it on only when i have to push start it one day when it refuses to work.. maybe i should just deal with it soon.

 

Probably ur starter carbon worn off alr.

agree with naim on that. the worn motor carbon can cause intermittent starting issue.

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Need urgent help

 

There is a rattling noise coming from the left side of my engine when the throttle is applied.

There is also a little smoke coming out from the starter motor and sprocket cover area.

 

What is the likely damage and how urgently do I need to fix this?

 

Thanks

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I have also the same rattling sound still don't know where it is coming from.

Bike still running strong so did not bother to investigate.

 

For the smoke the last time mine some white smoke change valve seal and solve the problem but need to do top overhaul.

Maybe you change check if your engine oil is drying faster then before.

 

Need urgent help

 

There is a rattling noise coming from the left side of my engine when the throttle is applied.

There is also a little smoke coming out from the starter motor and sprocket cover area.

 

What is the likely damage and how urgently do I need to fix this?

 

Thanks

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  • 4 months later...

Phantom TA200/TA150 List of Problems and Solution

 

Problem 1: Exhaust emitting white smoke.

Reason: Engine oil is leaking into your chamber.

Solution: Pistol rings needs to be changed. Go to a bike workshop.

 

Reason: Your bike has a 2 stroke engine(ta150).

Solution: Its normal.

 

 

Problem 2: Engine stalls in heavy rain and unable / weak to start.

Reason: Spark plug could be getting wet by the rain causing it not not function

Solution: Remove, dry the spark plug and put it back properly. Go get the plug cap replaced.

 

Reason: Air fuel mixture may be too rich or lean.

Solution: Tune your carb to a leaner setting (turn screw anti-clockwise by 1/4).

Turning the screw clockwise to enrich the mixture. (once again, tune in 1/4 or 1/2 turns of the air correction screw, located on the LEFT side of the carb)

Bike tends to rev rapidly but have poor acceleration if lean, and if too rich, will have "spongy" / slow throttle response at high speeds.

If in need of advise / demonstration sms pandora's kitten at 93270801 (advice/demo given is FOC)

 

Reason: Air leakages.

Solution: Change some of the rubber parts in tank.

 

Reason: Air filter clogged.

Solution : Get your air filter changed. You are advised to inspect the air filter every 4000 or so kms and change it at 10k (Honda warranty service manual)

 

Problem 3: Flat / Punctured Tyres

Solution: Try to inflate tyre with portable pump / bicycle pump then go bike or tyre shop. DO NOT ride on flat tyres as they may damage your tyre or wheel.

 

Solution: Use tyre repair kit, plug and pump = good to go. Kit can be bought at LAB.

Solution 2: Buy a can of fix a flat from Carrefour or petrol stations, put it in your box.

 

Problem 4: Cannot / Hard to start bike

Reason: Battery may be weak (confirmed by a tick sound from the right side cover under the seat).

Solution: Push Start(Clutch in after running with bike, release, give a quick throttle and clutch in) and go get battery replaced or ride to charge(if still can be charged).

You are advised to use third gear to push start (due to Phantom's short gearing) or even fourth on very slippery driveways (such as on some landed properties)

 

Reason: Fuse may be blown.

Solution: Check Fuse. Fuse is located on right side of bike. Remove chrome cover under the seat and see. Look out for the centre of the fuse if its broken then FUSED lor. Change new one.

 

Reason: Bike is in gear, kill switch is on, no petrol, petcock off.

Solution: Obvious.

 

Reason: Rectifier issue (despite new battery, bike soon becomes hard to start again)

Solution: Get mechanic to check with a voltage meter. Ah chong has one.

 

Reason: Petrol topped up too full - Don't laugh.

Solution: The petrol tank is not meant to be filled to the brim. Leave some space for air.

 

Reason: Water in petrol

Solution: Check that fuel cap is secure and no leaks

 

Reason/solution: Stater clutch assembly spolt - u can hear motorspin but engine does not turn over - bring over to mechanic

 

 

++ Reason: If everything is working fine CDI might be spoilt

Solution: Tow to shop and change..2nd hand one will cause app $100 1st hand $200+

Others:

- Check ignition coil for sparks.

- Check magneto coil.

 

 

Problem 5: Cant go more den 80 km/h

Reason: You are not in the 6th gear

Solution: Down 1 time 1st gear. up 5 times to sixth gear

Solution: If you have very poor acceleration when throttle is opened, you are running lean. Enrich mixture by 1/2 to 1 turn of the air correction screw.

 

Reason: If confirm no 6th gear, gear box may be in bad shape

Solution: Go to a reputable workshop for a checkup, may need to over haul.

 

Reason: Insufficient Engine Oil (Very bad)

Solution: Check with dipstick as according to manual. Buy Engine Oil from petrol kiosk and top up.

 

Reason: Clutch may have been worn off (Engine reving very high but no power to go any faster)

Solution: Bike shop chance clutch.

 

Reason: Air fuel mixture too rich (Crazy vibrations at higher revs making it too uncomfortable)

Solution: Tune air fuel mixture leaner (Turn screw anti-clockwise 1/2 - 1 round)

 

Reason: Sprocket may be worn off

Solution: Change sprocket and chain.

 

 

Problem 6: Weird sound on my bike

Reason: Might be battery low. (Ticking sound on right side when start button depressed)

Solution: Push start, change battery

 

Reason: If sound is on gearbox side, chain may be too slack

Solution: Check your chain tension 1st. Should have about 2 to 3cm slack, tested at the center of the bottom span of the chain. Anything more, get it tightened. Also, lubricate your chain.

Solution: If you are using spray on chain lube, dirt and grease may be thrown off the chain during normal operation. When a lot of grease accumulates on the chain tensioner (rubber cylinder) and swingarm protector (rubber bar) the chain will emit a loud sound as though running through sand. Scrape and wipe away the excess grease and enjoy the quietness.

 

 

Problem 7: - Exhaust Header got holes. Can repair?

Reason: Got one specific hole which is ok.

Solution: If unsure, post some pictures.

 

 

Problem 8: - Engine oil Dip stick broken (Broken part might be in engine)

Solution:

- Send to bikeshop.

- New dipstick costs around $11.

 

 

Problem 9: I have tried everything but to no avail. Any tow numbers please?

Solution:

- 67474740 Tiko cheong.

- 64560018 Wing Yap.

- 97384501 => Hello, you the tua chia one?

 

 

Problem 10: Engine Part Leaking Oil

Reason: Gasket Spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it replaced

 

Reason: Cam chain tensioner spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it replaced

 

 

Problem 11: When riding, bike lean to one side. Let go of handlebar, steering was shaky and wobbling

Reason: Might be steering cone problem.

Solution: Go bike shop to get it fixed. May also need re-alignment.

 

Reason: Wheel bearings spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it changed.

 

Reason: Wheel alignment might have problem.

Solution: Bike shop, get it fixed.

 

 

Problem 12: Speedo is not working

Reason: The cable, or the gear at the end of the cable is spoilt or loose.

Solution: If loose, plug it back or tighten. Else needs replacement, go bike shop.

 

Reason: Speedo spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop.

 

 

Problem 13: My exhaust gives / have a loud bang regularly. (Backfire)

Reason: Air fuel mixture too rich or too lean.

Solution: Retune the carb. (check problem 24)

 

Reason: Air suction valve spoilt. Backfire occurs after closing throttle suddenly.

Solution: Replace air suction valve.

 

Problem 14: I lost my bike Key!!! What to do??

Solution: Go find the key smith.

 

Solution: If want to change ignition, look for Ah Chong (Planet) or scrapyard.

 

 

Problem 15: Bike pickup super slow. Even slower than small cc cars.

Reason: Clutch is worn

Solution: Change your clutch plates.

Solution: Fuel/air mixture too lean giving poor acceleration and a hot engine

 

Reason: Your brake is dragging

Solution: Check wheel spin, check the brake pads if its time to replace, check if brake caliper mounted properly, check disc rotor warped or not; check wheel bearing

 

 

Problem 16: Damaged Exhaust: Header got hole / Muffler loose or dropping.

Solution: Header got hole can weld it up.

Solution: Muffler dropping can cut open the pipe and take it out but pipe will sound louder.

Solution: Alternatively can change the whole system, pipe + header, about 300+-.

 

Problem 17: Hard to kick the gears

Reason: Clutch is worn

Solution: Change or top up EO.

Solution: Change clutch plate.

 

Reason: Your clutch cable is breaking.

Solution: Replace your clutch cable

 

Problem 18: When cold start, bike got "tick tick" sound

Reason: cam chain tensioner spoilt.

Solution: Change the cam chain tensioner.

Solution: If its rattling sound instead of "tick tick" sound, bring bike to mechanic.

 

Problem 19: Bike wobble for no apparent reason.

Reason: Might have problem with wheel bearings or tyre pressure.

Solution: Check that the tyre pressure is correct.

Solution: If tyre pressure is correct, most probably is the bearing spoilt.

Solution:Change new bearings.

 

Problem 20: In Vehicle Unit (IU) Spoilt.

Reason: There is a whole lot of reason, old, water seep in, etc etc.

Solution: But a second hand IU but need to transfer name.

Solution: Buy a new IU at $155.80 w GST.

Solution: Don't go into carparks or go through ERP.

 

Problem 21: Weak Battery.

Reason: Battery old. Cannot charge or hold properly. etc etc

Solution: Recharge the battery (Wet), Dry ones cannot be recharged?.

Solution: Most people change batteries instead of recharging.

Solution: If leaving bike alone for a long time, disconnect the battery to prevent further unnecessary drainage.

 

Problem 22: Need to step real hard for brake lights to light up.

Reason: There is a knob for adjustment, it might be loose

Solution: There is a black screw lookalike plastic knob( near the spring) located somewhere near the rear brake pedal. u can play around with the knob by turning to adjust the sensitivity of your rear brake when you apply brake. apply machine oil to spring

 

Problem 23: IU Spoilt.

Reason: No reason in particular. If its spoilt, its spoilt.

Solution: Inspect at Vicom. Replace a new one if under warranty. If not, have to buy a new one at about $155 (Slim).

Solution: check whether wires connected. supposed to be directly to battery. some bikes short direct to starter motor relay terminal or inside the left chrome cover.

 

Problem 24: Backfire tooooo frequent. Like 3-5 times a day. Or when u stop normally, not even sudden brake.

Reason: Gasket at exhaust head leaking air. Or #2, Exhaust has holes

Solution: Replace gasket. Or #2, send it to Planet Motor (ahchong) to weld the holes, or get a second-hand exhaust or get one cheaper exhaust at LAB (must make order)

Solution: Fuel-air mixture likely too rich. Backfires when throttle is closed, due to residual fuel afterburning in the exhaust header. This is bad for the valves and the catalytic converter.

 

Reason: Air suction valve spoilt. Backfire occurs after closing throttle suddenly.

Solution: Replace air suction valve.

 

25: After turning off my engine there is a tick tick tick sound some where.

Reason: Exhast pipe is cooling down. Hot it expands so cold it turns back.

Solution: Do DIY exhaust wrap. Reduced backpressure = faster heat evacuation, leading to high speed silent running and silent cooldown after engine off. (Pandora's Kitten :3)

 

Problem 26: Cannot find neutral gear!

Solution: Gear oil not suitable, change different grade of gear oil (see gearoil thread for details)

Solution: Gear box dying.

Solution: Engine is overheated. (Running too lean/ Not enough engine oil. An overheating engine may cause excessive oil consumption, especially when using less tolerant mineral oil)

Solution: Clutch freeplay not enough

Solution: If cannot find neutral when engine is hot but fine when engine is cold, that means engine oil has degraded and cannot maintain its viscosity at high temperatures. Changing engine oil should solve the issue.

 

Problem 27: Handlebar position is not centered (while riding). Handlebars are "straight" but wheel points to one side.

Solution: Lock the wheel, grab the handlebars firmly and twist the bars until straightened. The risers are flexible to some degree, due to the vibration damping rubber washers. (Demonstrated by Planet Motors)

Solution: If your steering lock is spoilt, put the wheel against a pillar or a wall.

 

Problem 28: Bike hard to U-turn. Riding position not comfortable as handlebars too high up.

Solution: Adjust the angle of the handlebars. Loosen the bottom two screws of the risers, pull back the bars so they "rise" towards your face. This will give you a more relaxed riding posture and you are able to enjoy a greater turning angle at low speeds. If your handlebars are set to rise straight upwards forcing you to stretch forward and upwards to steer, your elbows will prevent you from turning easily at low speeds

 

Problem 29: Engine oil disappears at a fast rate

Reason: Piston ring busted.

Solution: See mechanic. Top overhaul probably needed.

 

Problem 30: Side stand broke off with mounting lug.

Solution: Get a mechanic to weld the mounting back.

 

Problem 31: Engine starts but stalls after short while. Repeat cranking will not start bike. Bike starts only after moderate to a lot of throttle and revving.

Reason: Clogged up air filter.

Solution: Replace filter. Filter should be translucent to light.

 

Problem 32: Head lamp dont have low beam, only high beam;

Reason/Solution: Low beam filament fuse - replace bulb (bulb H6, 2 filament inside one bulb for low and high beam)

 

Problem 33: Tail light got brake light no tail light or got tail light no brake light

Reason/Solution: also one of the filament blow - replace bulb (bulb 1157, 2 filament inside one bulb for tail and brake light)

 

Problem 34: Either one of the indicator light stops flashing

Reason/solution: Check your fuse - sometimes fused liao indicator wont flash - bike wun start either

Reason/solution: one of the indicator lamps fuse

reason/Solution: some wiring inside wire harness broken or shorted - wiggle around the bunch of wire inside headlamp assembly to see f problem disappears

 

Problem 35: Lights repeated fusing

Reason/solution: rectifier over charging - check charging voltage when engine is revved

reason/solution: insufficient grounding (due to rust etc) - run a wire from -ve terminal of battery to frame to improve grouding

reason/solution: some wire short/broken - hence always same bulb fuse

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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  • 4 months later...
I'm sorry but where in the world is the screw to turn to adjust the fuel/air mixture? My bike has started backfiring like crazy whenever I close the throttle. The only recent change was engine oil!

 

see below for the fuel/air mixture screw (screw A). turn anti-clockwise to lean, or turn clockwise to richen the pilot circuit a/f mixture.

warning: take note adjustments of a few degrees can change alot.

 

***before adjusting the screw, i recommend you change the air filter, or blow the air filter with compressed air first before adjusting the a/f screw.

most of the time its because filter dirty then will affect the a/f mixture and cause backfiring.

if you adjust your a/f mixture for the pilot circuit with a dirty air filter, it will screw up your tuning later when you change filter and then you'll have to readjust again thereafter.

 

carb screw.jpg

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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Up to yr discretion! I change every 5000km actually due to the dusty places I go to so I had to use compressed air every few months! That's for me especially during haze periods.

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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