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[Technical] Possible Solutions to your Phantom's Problem


jB

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It isn't the rough or tight kinda feeling. More like my key kena locked inside and blocked by something

 

Yes. The key drum doesn't retract properly due to grime hence locking your key.

 

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk

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I previously used some spray lubricant too.

 

Anyone have to pull the choke to start the bike? On another carb I did not have to but on this bike, if I do not pull the choke, it cannot start in the morning.

 

What does the choke do?

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IMG_20150109_214526.jpgIMG_20150109_214610.jpg

 

Hi Guys I am facing a slight problem. From the picture above, my exhaust manifold was scraped by a road hump while riding with a pillion. So when I checked the manifold saw that there is a scrape (which is fine for me) and another thing is the hole from the pic is it supposed to be there or it is due to the hump hitting the manifold?

 

Lastly after hitting the hump, there is a very soft tick tick sound from the header area not sure exactly where. ( Maybe I am just paranoid though after hitting the hump)

 

Hope you guys can help. Thanks!

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am i seeing things or is something missing from yr exhaust? take full shot photo lehhh..

anyway cylinder always got ticking sound one but it depends on how it ticks. cam chain/valve noise is always there. if u scared go see mech - asking here will leave us clueless also unless u show us in person lol. and yes of course if u not enough EO or eo need to change alrd such noises are louder.

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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Hi guys,

 

I've started riding a phantom recently, and notice that the front brakes on mine is very inefficient. Can anyone tell me if there is a problem? To be able to use the front brakes effectively i really have to press it all the way in (almost touching the throttle) to feel it. Is this normal? If it is, is there anything that can be done to improve the front brakes? Thanks!

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Pls check your brake fluid. Also there might be alot of air in your brake line. Braking pressure should be firm and not compressible. I will suggest u send for brake servicing soon e.g. check brake pads, fluids or brake fluid change plus bleeding.

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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Hi guys,

 

I've started riding a phantom recently, and notice that the front brakes on mine is very inefficient. Can anyone tell me if there is a problem? To be able to use the front brakes effectively i really have to press it all the way in (almost touching the throttle) to feel it. Is this normal? If it is, is there anything that can be done to improve the front brakes? Thanks!

 

The brake disc could also be an issue. If you already have grooves worn into the brake disc, even new brake pads won't save the day.

 

Notwithstanding the fact that there could be underlying problems with your brake mechanisms, the best form of brakes is actually pre-emptive braking. No matter how efficient our brakes are, it cannot save us from bxxtards who chooses to suddenly jam brake or filter out of their congested lane with a hard left/right steering.

 

Ride long and ride safe.

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Thanks guys! Went to planet and ah chong told me that my brake fluid reservoir was spoilt/meant for GN125 (previous owner installed).

 

I agree about pre-emptive braking, I had been in a minor accident once, the fella coming out from a small lane towards the main road just cut into the middle lane which I was in. Before that happened I had a bad feeling and I actually braked a little bit, but before I could pass the small lane the person just cut in front of me causing me to jam brake. I lightly bumped the car and low sided.. damn suay.

 

If my brakes were in good working condition, I would have brake in time. If I didn't slow down prior to accident, I would have been tossed into the air. Thankfully i live to learn from this.

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good to hear u isolated issue!

 

anyway with preemptive braking, best to not brake in a hurry to avoid hazard in the first place. Better is to anticipate traffic earlier and combine that with throttle control. Some instructor was telling me that if u can ride smoothly without braking unnecessary by keeping appropriate distance, you wouldn't have to attempt to lose speed in a hurry. As long you brake, don't forget vehicles behind u along the line must react to your change in behavior.

 

Ride safe!

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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  • 4 months later...

fyi for those who find it difficult to start but actually have no serious problem with their bike.. below video explains some quick fixes : 4 Stroke Motorcycle Starting Tips:

 

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

operate a vehicle in a way that you benefit other road users pls - and meanwhile, stop whining! be responsible and be safe.

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  • 6 months later...
  • 1 month later...
Hi all, I recently got a 9 years old Phantom, and when I start my engine and throttle, it gives out a knocking sound from the engine. However after travelling on it for about 15mins the sound is gone. Anyone here knows what is the problem and how I can fix it?

 

Many thanks!!

 

Have you checked your engine oil?

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  • 1 month later...

JB, for problem 20, I wish to bring these to your attention, as well as that of other forum members.

 

1.When you are getting 'IU not detected', it does not necessarily mean the IU is spoilt. It can be because it is not getting the 12V supply due to faulty wires, loose connection or blown fuse. Even with the 12V in place, it may still not be detected by carpark sensors when it runs into a 'system hang' situation. I just encountered this with my own IU today. I tested for 12V supply with a multimeter. It was present, making me believe my IU had gone kaput. So, I went to the Inspection Centre for replacement. I told the technician what I discovered. He pulled out the connectors of my IU and connected them directly to an external 12V supply. Viola, the device was immediately up and running again. No service charge for this. Sigh. I reckoned my IU was in the 'hanged' state and required a reset. This could be solved by rebooting. So when the wires were disconnected and reconnected, a reboot was effected. Members can consider doing this themselves when they have 'IU not detected' next time. But it must be on condition that the 12V supply exists.

 

2. Member with inoperative IU should immediately inform the respective carpark operator so that you can enter or exit your season carpark without having to use cashcard. Fee will be deducted from the cashcard if you chose the cashcard method while your IU remains down. You will only be given one or two days grace for this. During this period, just press the intercom button, tell them your vehicle number and they will lift up the barrier for you. I am sharing my personal experience.

Edited by snookie51
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Have you checked your engine oil?

 

Knocking engine sound is normally related to timing problem. A tight piston may cause this. Your EO level may be low. This is especially when you have difficulty shifting gear as well.

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JB, for problem 20, I wish to bring these to your attention, as well as that of other forum members.

1.When yogetting ve 'IU not detected', it does not necessarily mean the IU is spoilt. It can be because it is not gettthe 12V supply due to faulty wires, loose connection or blown fuse. Even with the 12V in place, it may still be not detected by carpark sensors when it runs into a 'system hang' situation. I just encountered this with my IU today. I tested the 12V supply with a multimeter which was present, making me to believe my IU had gone kaput. So, I went to the Inspection Centre for replacement. I told the technician what I discovered. He pulled out the connectors of my IU and connected them directly to an external 12V supply. Viola, the device was immediately up and running. No service charge for this. I reckoned my IU was in the 'hanged' state and required a reset. This could be done by rebooting. So when the wires are disconnected and reconnected, a reboot was effected. Members can consider doing this themselves. But it must be on condition that the 12V supply exists.

 

2. Member with inoperative IU can immediately inform your respective carpark operator so that you can enter or exit your season carpark without having to use cashcard. Fee will be deducted from the cashcard if you chose the cashcard method. You will only be given one or two days grace for this. During this period, just press the intercom button, tell them your vehicle number and they will lift up the barrier for you. I am sharing my personal experience.

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  • 3 weeks later...

My IU died again today. I did what I said as in comment #174. Voila ! It worked again. But do note that this is only a temporary measure. It's still advisable to have the unit checked thoroughly at the centre.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, help me with advice please!

few days ago get a problem, head light, turning light starts working very weak, horn is not working together with head light or turning lights.

And when i trying to start the bike, starter is not working or turning very slow, and relay is clicking.

Everything looks like battery dead, i change it, for one day it was good and then again....

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  • 3 weeks later...

i have intermittent problems with my starter motor. At one point of time i clicked the push start button and only the clicking sound was heard without the starter motor rotating. Sometimes its ok and sometime its not. I had to engage a gear and push the bike a bit and press the push start button to get my starter motor running. it seems like some dead spot for the starter motor. is my starter motor posing signs of wear?

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Thanks. Just got my starter carbon changed. Bought at $18 at lab (original) and fixed it with the help of my experienced dad. I see some people paid above $20 for the starter carbon. Could there be mark up by ah boy's workers? My price was quoted by ah boy himself.

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