Aprilia Riders

[StingRhea]

http://predator.bikepics.com/pics/aprilia-rs125-00-bikepics-135930.jpg

 

above is a pic of my bike, going to redo quite a bit of things~ including paintwork~

 

anybody koe how to take out the pillon seat? stupid milo pipe~

[eyz]

oi got your licence liao boh??

[eyz]

Y2K has a slip on for the pillion..

 

mayb you should do the Rossi Valencia design aka Austin Power

hhehe

[eyz]

is that the old mirror??

[StingRhea]

simi slip on for pillon~ i will say bubbye to those mirrors anyway~

[StingRhea]

i will do my own design though~

[eyz]

see that yellow part??

 

i think you just remove that part and slip on the plastic cover if i'm not wrong..

heard you can buy it at Mah motor..

[StingRhea]

how to remove? how much is the single seater anybody koe?

[eyz]

less than 200.. or less then 150...

go see at Mah motor, heard got a few design... got bumble bee design somemore...

 

just get you allen key, and anyhow hamtam lah...

not so difficult, rite?? not so much hidden screw...

[StingRhea]

wonder where are the screws etc~ will go down and see~ i prefer plain, its the shape dat i wonder how it looks like~

[eyz]

lacrimosae: reminds me of an incident last week when i turned with my front brake depressed.. my whole handle bar wobble! and i didn't even

squeeze too hard...

really had a shock.. luckily the handle bar didn't lock to 1 side...

[eyz]

sting: if your mirror is going... sell mi k...

[bktan]

hey guys i just changed my rear brake pads, but my pads have this clicking sound whenever i hit the rear brakes. Whenever i press the brakes there's this 'click' sound emitting from the calipers there. Sounds as if my pads are moving in there or something.

 

any thing can i do to resolve this? it only happens when my bike's moving forward, but moving in reverse there's no sound when stationary also none so i can only assume the pads are somehow moving when the friction hits the discs

 

but for functional purposes it seems to be functioning ok. Just that i don't see why these ferodo pads will make such sounds but the stock pads won't, mmm.. any1 wif suggestions?

 

using ferodo pads btw fdb207r

[eyz]

does the pad fit nicely into the caliper??

[bktan]

well i checked the brakes and everything seems to be in place. the securing clip is there, the bolt is there, the clip behind the bolt is there, the brake pads are in line, the reservoir has fluid and the brake light works. no sure what else to check.

[bktan]

for any1 who wants to bleed their brakes, taken off from apriliaforum.com

 

Ok, a short and correct manual for bleeding brakes. The front brake doesn't need to be taken off. The rear caliper needs to be taken off. Take the rear off and put something between it to prevent the pistons from popping out. If you have a spare set off brake pads you can use these.When you start bleeding the rear make sure the nipple is in the highest position. Put a ring wrench on the nipple and put a tube on the nipple. Hang the tube in a jar and put a small amount of brake fluid in the jar, just enough to get the tip of the tube under (this is not necessairy but it makes it a lot easier).Take the lid of the reservoir. Now you squeaze the brake lever in and keep it squeased, at the same time you gently loosen the nipple until the lever starts to go in. When the lever reaches the end of the stroke close the nipple before you release the lever. Release the lever gently, don't let it pop back, otherwise you will get air between the reservoir and the brake cylinder. Keep doing this until there are no more bubbles coming out through the tube. Then do it some more, like 2 or 3 times to make sure the air is all out. Close the nipple and take the tube off. Keep an eye on the reservoir at all times. If it goes below the minimum you will have to start all over again. The last part is to top up the reservoir with brake fluid to the max indication. Always use fresh brakefluid and try not to use silicone based fluid. They have a longer period between refreshes but it will give you a more mushy feeling. Try to get a hold of ate racing blue or ap racing 600. They both are excellent, if you can, use the ate fluid, it has a lifetime of about 2 years while the ap fluid has a lifetime of 6 to 10 months. This has nothing to do with the fluid actually getting worn out, but brake fluid absorbs water and starts to degrade over time.

[Greydium]

Nice to meet you guys at ideal yeaterday.

 

lacrimosae: I should be on you one, keep me updated.

[StingRhea]

Originally posted by eyz@Apr 18 2004, 11:36 PM

sting: if your mirror is going... sell mi k...

i intend to keep it~ sell that time must haf wad~ dun tell me u wan me to sell w/o originals in hand?

[servoprax]

Originally posted by bktan@Apr 19 2004, 12:10 AM

well i checked the brakes and everything seems to be in place. the securing clip is there, the bolt is there, the clip behind the bolt is there, the brake pads are in line, the reservoir has fluid and the brake light works. no sure what else to check.

da brake pad will naturally squeal for a few days due to it breaking in. about the clicking sound, i need to hear it for my self and then i can tell ya. monday nite we meet again how abt dat ?

[servoprax]

Originally posted by ah_bern@Apr 18 2004, 05:34 PM

sian....

 

if clutch plate spoil...

i going back to GHC to change

 

got 2 weeks warranty

my meter not working also...

must go do altogether 2ml

eh bro, tell u wat lah..... just carry on riding for now. if u have 250bux, go for a pressure plate and a clutch plate overhaul.

 

pressure plate 70 bux

clutch plate set 70 - 80 bux

gear oil 18 bux

workmanship 60 bux.

 

It seriously worthwhile to change all at one go. but judging from the ride on ur bike yesterday, its not really such a big problem. its not as if u cant clutch in or ur bike dun have power. in my opinion, u can still ride it for da next few months. if u ride ur bike hard like some of us do, then u'd better change, else just leave it for da time being.

 

meter cable does not cost more than 15bux. anithing more than 20 bux is confirmed being chopped.

[servoprax]

Originally posted by eyz@Apr 18 2004, 06:48 AM

servo: you saw messiah's replica single seater?? how was it?? i talked to

him about it... it's customised, rite??

 

it looks good!!

in my opinion i still prefer da flatter version of the one seater like da original piece with the rear seat.

[servoprax]

Originally posted by eyz@Apr 18 2004, 07:20 PM

servo: apa kau cakap?? tak mengerti sia..

 

don't tell me you also X-ed too??

 

what is your bike doing at Ideal?!?!

aiyah.... nuthin much lah.... just cosmetic changes....

 

just to update da price list

 

mra double bubble wind screen for y2k series 140bux

 

led signal light flush mounted 60 bux

 

side marker signal lite similar to cars 35 bux

 

flushmounted signal lite bulb version 60 bux

 

motovation bar-end balancers stainless steel 40bux

 

high speed bearings NTN for front and rear 12 bux per piece

 

re-wrap front and rear seat with self-choose leather 15bux per piece

 

anione interested let me noe.

[StingRhea]

i like messiah's single seat

i doubt can fit on my bike rite?

[bktan]

Originally posted by servoprax@Apr 19 2004, 01:33 AM

da brake pad will naturally squeal for a few days due to it breaking in. about the clicking sound, i need to hear it for my self and then i can tell ya. monday nite we meet again how abt dat ?

mm.. where do u stay?

 

i'll prob be at my gf's place around bedok area. where wld u be?

 

well there isn't any squealing sound *yet* but there's just this annoying clicking noise. was told that b4 putting the plates back in, shld copper grease them on the metal plates at the back to prevent such odd metal noises.

[Greydium]

Yesterday whikle travelling home, kena smoked by an KRR.

Damn, I was smokes by an KRR yesterday, he just zoomed pass me like that...

I was in 3rd gear travelling at 70, drop gear also useless.

Haiz.