SBF Silverwings / HOM Cafe 2012

[Sâundless]

Hope to see you on trips then .. I am usually sweeping the road trips too.. but long time never join trips liao ...

yes 867k , I am an undercover ~ the thread I am supposed to be is too quiet haha

 

If i remember correctly.... you ride a majesty....

[Uncle]

hope Honda makes this a standard for all bikes, then no difference with automatic scooters. saw something like this on newer FJR with gear level shift but not automatic shift yet.

 

http://world.honda.com/news/2009/2090908Dual-Clutch-Transmission/video/

[patrick1131]

:giddy: I got see you before 紅燈泡 ??

[Sâundless]

:giddy: I got see you before 紅燈泡 ??

 

Maybe.... Maybe not.....

But i know you ride a 400cc maj?

[patrick1131]

how come you know sia ?? so far I only met big cow in person before leh...

btw you know "thatone" long time nv see him online liao..

okie I think SW bros will not like me off topic too much hah

[Sâundless]

how come you know sia ?? so far I only met big cow in person before leh...

btw you know "thatone" long time nv see him online liao..

okie I think SW bros will not like me off topic too much hah

 

I may not see you in person before...

But i saw maj @ bt indah white coffee before with some other big bikes....

I guess it should be le....

[bigcow]

got it! actually the softness isn't much of an issue for me as I always ride solo and not aggressive (hard braking, eg). it's more of when I corner fast (eg expressway exit), I can feel the front "twitch" occasionally, if you can say so, which does not give me much confidence and I've to hold the handlebar harder. so can this be solved with fork brace and any available for SW?

 

how about using handlebar stabiliser (those with hydraulic cylinder attached to the handlebar steering, typically seen on BIG cc sportsbikes)? I know sounds a bit overkill but want to explore all possibilities

 

GOOD NEWS!!! i've solved the front fork wobbling issue. today tested with & without pillion, 1 hand cornering @ 150km/hr. so stable & i can practically feel my front wheel sticking on the ground. bike handling confidence went up. no longer a bike that can't corner. thought i change bike sia! for more info, pls contact me @ 91050569.

[Uncle]

GOOD NEWS!!! i've solved the front fork wobbling issue. today tested with & without pillion, 1 hand cornering @ 150km/hr. so stable & i can practically feel my front wheel sticking on the ground. bike handling confidence went up. no longer a bike that can't corner. thought i change bike sia! for more info, pls contact me @ 91050569.

 

expect a lot of phone calls coming in ...

[scoobydoo]

may not be necessary to modify the front fender as I've seen fork braces that are slightly curved as well as "n" shape. maybe someone can CNC the part if there's enough interests?

yes, braces can come in various curves/shapes but there's no place on the lower fork assembly to mount the brace onto, coz the fender is flushed up to the level where the seal cover is

Edited January 19, 2010 by scoobydoo

[infinity]

ya more ppl will call u soon

BTW i dun have the wobbling issue when gg on higher speed.... when cornering.

my problem is more on low speed corner... turning out from carpark..... my handle bar will wobble abit... I suspect that my problem is due to my uneven wear at my rear tyre cos last time I also encounter this problem but after changing my rear tyre, problem solve..

[scoobydoo]

hope Honda makes this a standard for all bikes, then no difference with automatic scooters. saw something like this on newer FJR with gear level shift but not automatic shift yet.

 

http://world.honda.com/news/2009/2090908Dual-Clutch-Transmission/video/

same concept as the steptronic system... "great" to have on the SW, but then cost of replacing/repairing the SW's currently simple mechanical-based variator-pulley system will be much higher liow

 

higher tech = higher costs

[scoobydoo]

1 hand cornering @ 150km/hr

this... i will never do coz i kiasi

but its always good to improve handling/stability

[scoobydoo]

yo SW9000, are these the luggage bags you're looking for?

hmmm... think the rear fairings supporting the bags might get scratched even if microfiber paddings are used as cushions.

but can always paste stickers on the fairings before mounting the bags.

 

http://www.hartif.com/images/SNC00113.jpghttp://www.hartif.com/images/SNC00108.jpg

 

 

i'm more interested in this cute little thingy for my back (seems no need to mod the stock rest)... small but serve the purpose for touring

 

http://silverwing.org/mwf/attach/2/32902/hog2.jpg

Edited January 19, 2010 by scoobydoo

[Uncle]

yes, braces can come in various curves/shapes but there's no place on the lower fork assembly to mount the brace onto, coz the fender is flushed up to the level where the seal cover is

 

You're right! Official reply from one of the manufacturers:

 

Good Morning and thanks for your interest. Unfortunately after extensive

reserach, we've found that there are clearance issues with the Silverwing

which prevents from safely manufacturing a brace for your bike.

 

Ride Safe,

 

SuperBrace - the Ultimate Fork Stabilizer

 

http://www.superbrace.com

[anodise57]

GOOD NEWS!!! i've solved the front fork wobbling issue. today tested with & without pillion, 1 hand cornering @ 150km/hr. so stable & i can practically feel my front wheel sticking on the ground. bike handling confidence went up. no longer a bike that can't corner. thought i change bike sia! for more info, pls contact me @ 91050569.

 

 

commercial solution

[Mark C.]

commercial solution

You mean?

"1 hand cornering @ 150km/hr"?

:help:

[SW9000]

Wah. Just realised the April trip gonna stress out my wife cos she need to run 2 places to take care of kids (1 Seng Kang, 1 Chai Chee... diff school).

So terrible me.

 

Have to re-schedule my Nov trip to Chiang Mai liao (delay by 1 week) so to match with sch holiday.

Might fly there and rent a S4 but trip will cost $600 more (full trip $1600) due to flight.

Edited January 19, 2010 by SW9000

[spin37]

ok, was told can discount $100 if order both front and back. so far rear is still ok for me as I always ride solo. will let you know before I order if you want to tamba the rear springs

 

 

 

ok, that makes 2 front and 1 rear already. anymore keen?

 

 

 

maybe you look rich I intend to DIY the next 2 EO and gear oil change. 4L Shell Helix Ultra only cost $50! Saw a shop that does many GoldWing. Seeing the way the mechanic changed my air filter gives me the feeling that they graduated from SilverWing long time ago! I intend to try them the next time I run into problems or the next 10k km servicing.

 

 

 

what you do mean by "harden"? do you mean chemically treat it, or physically by attaching a fork brace?

 

 

 

maybe you can check out the SW-GT or SWT-400 brake disc if it fits, with some minor brake caliper bracket change or new brake caliper. I think it's bigger.

 

 

 

one of the shop told me they can bring in steel brake hose ($200+) for SilverWing from this supplier http://www.plotonline.com/brand/swege-line/index.html I also intend to change if price is good with a few combined orders. If not, wait till it's time to change the brake fluid.

 

Haha..maybe they see your hair green colour, carrot head. then they chop ! **jus kidding

 

Anyway i wanna change the whole rear shock, not just the springs.

 

And guys, car engine oil and bike engine oil is DIFFERENT ! Cos car's engine running at lower RPM but our bike running at higher RPM. Different spec, better not try. And maybe Goldwing can use that cos engine running abt the same RPM when car.

 

*pls correct me if i wrong*

[Uncle]

But cars also have high revving engines mah those on autobahns hit speeds in excess of 200km/h. Only SG cars cannot rev

 

BTW, can I set engine idling rpm to 1k? Cannot understand why need 1300rpm when car only idle at 700rpm.

[pekkie]

hello aklll

[SW9000]

But cars also have high revving engines mah those on autobahns hit speeds in excess of 200km/h. Only SG cars cannot rev

 

BTW, can I set engine idling rpm to 1k? Cannot understand why need 1300rpm when car only idle at 700rpm.

 

1300rpm and bike throttle response is instant.

The lowest you should go is 1100rpm. Mine is just below 1200, pointing at 1st line after 1k.

1k... engine retarded (for stop and go) and also morning auto-warming rpm too low.

[Uncle]

Thanks. Now mine 美美 at the 1st line after 1k

[scoobydoo]

Only SG cars cannot rev

 

BTW, can I set engine idling rpm to 1k? Cannot understand why need 1300rpm when car only idle at 700rpm.

who says cars in SG cannot rev? try driving on expressways with 1st or 2nd gear... whahaha

auto gear? use the overdrive (aka sports mode) all the way lor.

 

 

 

if you happen to read thru the hundreds of pages (including 08's thread), you'll find some answers

 

* SW's clutch is designed to engage around 2.5~3k rpms using the dynamics of centrifugal force. basically, as the clutch block spins faster (higher engine rpm), more force is generated to push the clutch pegs (held inward by springs) outwards, gripping onto the clutch bell, which is attached to gears which in turn is "linked" to turn the rear wheel. higher rpm create higher force, resulting in firmer grip, thus clutch engagement.

with a lower idle, rider have to "throttle more" before the clutch engages and bike comes "active"; say from 700rpm to 3krpm compared to 1.3krpm to 3kprm. this is what SW9000 means by throttle response, not that the engine doesn't respond, its the clutch.

 

having a bigger lag between active and passive (clutch disengaged) may not be advisable as controlling the half-clutch (aka "tong gia" in hokkien) when negotiating acute bends at creeping speeds (e.g. parking, u-turns, obstacles, etc) becomes more tricky, more tiring on the wrist to get the half-bite point of the clutch. but no issue if rider rides with only "on or off" clutch mode.

sound like someone hor... whahahaha

bigger lag also makes riding less enjoyable as more of the throttle's full turn is taken up by passive zone. i.e. rider needs to turn more on the throttle to achieve a same rpm compare to another whose idle is set much higher. go touring, needs more wrist power liow.

 

* another point brought up is that the SW’s fuel supply to engine is served by a fuel pump, unlike bikes with fuel tank mounted atop the engines and uses gravity to draw fuel down the fuel line. if rpm is set too low, the fuel pump may not work optimally.

also on the fuel pump issue, its not advisable to run the fuel tank till dry, causing the pump to suck air. it is said that this may cause unnecessary wear on the pump.

 

* the idle and air-valves seems to be “interrelated”. whenever the idle rpm is changed, the “fuel-air balance” between the 2 cylinders seems to go out of synchronization. on the other hand, changing air-screw settings will also vary the idle rpm.

lowering the idle rpm may not necessary improve fuel efficiency.

 

* too low an idle is not helpful when firing up the engine when cold, especially when the surrounding air is "moist". even though the SW has a built-in auto choke, there may not be sufficient fuel supply at the initial crank-start stage as there's a lag before auto choke is activated. nevertheless, can overcome this by manually controlling the throttle at startup.

 

 

these are what i have learnt from senior SWingers in the forum

[spin37]

But cars also have high revving engines mah those on autobahns hit speeds in excess of 200km/h. Only SG cars cannot rev

 

BTW, can I set engine idling rpm to 1k? Cannot understand why need 1300rpm when car only idle at 700rpm.

 

Most cars RPM meter shows from 1 ~ 6 (or maybe till 8) but ours till 11. And usually we travel 60 ~ 110km/h (rpm is ard 4 ~ 6.5, depends on rollers used). And cars, when traveling at 100km/h, rpm is only 2.5 ~ 3.5 (depends on engine and transmission gear ratio)

 

So usually in SG roads these are the speed that we usually travel, u compare the RPM different. Thats why i nvr try car engine oil b4.

[scoobydoo]

to be fair, we don't actually know how much different the 2 oils are. just that the manufacturers claim they are different with this-n-that formula or addictives, and supported with some reasons which we consumers accepted. but of course, some reasons make strong sense, like the risk of clutch slippage for bikes using wet clutch.

guess what... we're actually paying high premiums for "bike formula" oils. e.g. $22 and $30 for a bott of maxima extra and motul 300v respectively

just that we're not feeling as much a pain compared to servicing a car coz our bike uses only 2.2L oil, $15 oil filter and sparkies.

 

to be fair, some car oils are also designed for high revs too. think about the supercars like Ferrari, Lotus, Lamborghini, etc. whose normal rpm is usually much higher than normal cars. operate at low revs and the engines will "fall ill" over time; carbon accumulation is a common issue for performance engines running "sub-optimally", sounds like a good excuse for "clear carbon" runs.

 

over the years of riding, i've know many riders using car oils including myself. i've used mobil 1 full-synthetic in my in-line 4 engine in the early 90s.

if dun remember wrongly, bro scarab also uses car oils in his red burger