SBF Silverwings / HOM Cafe 2012

[scoobydoo]

Not blue. Its got to be BLUE to be my DeepBlueWING. keke...

pay a visit to paintshop... can get any color you want

 

i'm tempted to give my scooby new clothes after the april trip... still haven't decide on the color or maybe some design. hmmm... tempted to try funky colors

Edited March 3, 2010 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

yippi... leave approved http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Happy/happy-132.gif

Event: Hatyai & Krabi Ride (Songkran Festival 2010)

Duration: 10 April to 19 April 2010

Days: 10 Days 9 nights

Leave required: 6 days

Cost: $284 (for 4 riders)

Will advice on cost for additional riders

 

Itinerary:

10 Apr - Cameron Highland

11/13 Apr - Hatyai Songkran Festival

14/16 Apr - Krabi Land/Sea Tour

17 Apr - Hatyai shopping stopover

18 Apr - Genting stopover

19 Apr - Return to SG

 

Max at 6 Only (2 with extra bed):

1. SW9000 (FJS400)

2. Atlantic 200 (CB400,version S)

3. scoobydoo (FJS400)

4. jsilverwing (CB400, VTec I)

5. HelmetBOX! ... autoadd

6.

[SW9000]

yippi... leave approved http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Happy/happy-132.gif

 

2000thb share share 12hrs each?

[scoobydoo]

i'll be doing my 45k servicing next week, ahead of the coming trip.

lots of things to change siah... pocket jialat

+ pirelli diablo scoot front & rear tyres

+ transmission 3-in-1 set (belt, rollers, u-clips)

+ change clutch pads

+ clean K&N air-filter

+ brake pads (stock or other brands)

+ bleed & change brake fluid

+ replace LED lighting

+ fit utility hook

 

DIY:

+ change sparkies (denso iridium IUH24D)

+ synchronise air screws

 

btw, i'm still considering whether to use stock brake pads or other brands.

any suggestions? how about reviews on EBC double-H or Goldfren or others?

 

[bigcow]

i'll be doing my 45k servicing next week, ahead of the coming trip.

lots of things to change siah... pocket jialat

+ pirelli diablo scoot front & rear tyres

+ transmission 3-in-1 set (belt, rollers, u-clips)

+ change clutch pads

+ clean K&N air-filter

+ brake pads (stock or other brands)

+ bleed & change brake fluid

+ replace LED lighting

+ fit utility hook

 

DIY:

+ change sparkies (denso iridium IUH24D)

+ synchronise air screws

 

btw, i'm still considering whether to use stock brake pads or other brands.

any suggestions? how about reviews on EBC double-H or Goldfren or others?

 

 

i would recommend to use back stock. lasting and good though a little ex. a few using Braking brake pads on their front have spoiled their disc.

[jsilverwing]

Thursday 4/3/10 at rail mall,730pm coffee and any change were make by sw9000 or scoobydoo .

[Uncle]

btw, i'm still considering whether to use stock brake pads or other brands.

any suggestions? how about reviews on EBC double-H or Goldfren or others?

 

I can only say that the EBC double-H are not worse off than stock in terms of braking power. Maybe I don't brake hard enough or only covered too short a distance (200km) to make a difference. The brakes bed in quite fast and they do feel better over time. I do noticed that there's less brake dust though.

 

The rear stock brake pads were more worn than the front when I changed. Could be that the previous owner used more rear brake or is it generally so?

 

how much are the stock brake pads?

 

imo, the brake system has to be the best within the whole bike systems. Don't mind spending a bit more on it if it's really good. It just need to save me once from a collision and will be worth whatever money spent on it

[scoobydoo]

i would recommend to use back stock. lasting and good though a little ex. a few using Braking brake pads on their front have spoiled their disc.

ya lor... have heard from many pp the although the aftermarket pads are more 吃, they also 吃 (makan) away your discs

guess i'll stick to stock stuffs

[h_LoNg]

Gathering interest to mass order Hagon rear shocks for SW, so that we can share the shippment cost.

 

Will be asking a fellow forumer to help us liaise as he has contacts over Hong Kong side.

 

I tink should be 300plus + shippment (TBC as im not very sure also)

Interested parties please add to the list.

 

 

Interested Parties

1. @h_LoNg

[Uncle]

Understand some has changed to Dr Pulley rollers. From my R&D, saw that it gives a bigger low-gear ratio and a smaller high-gear ratio. So in theory, provides better acceleration and better top-speed. Sounds really too good to be true. Only thing is it lasts only 12k km.

 

Any feedback / recommendations from real-life usage?

[SW9000]

Gathering interest to mass order Hagon rear shocks for SW, so that we can share the shippment cost.

 

Will be asking a fellow forumer to help us liaise as he has contacts over Hong Kong side.

 

I tink should be 300plus + shippment (TBC as im not very sure also)

Interested parties please add to the list.

 

Item cost $370 + airfreight $54 = SGD$424

See my sig.. hehehe.

[spin37]

i would recommend to use back stock. lasting and good though a little ex. a few using Braking brake pads on their front have spoiled their disc.

 

agreed ! Goldfren brakepads not so good either..lots of dusts and eats disc ! Original is better, long lasting and dont eat disc so much.

[scoobydoo]

From my R&D, saw that it gives a bigger low-gear ratio and a smaller high-gear ratio. So in theory, provides better acceleration and better top-speed. Sounds really too good to be true. Only thing is it lasts only 12k km.

R&D? u mean reading all the advertising media from the manufacturer n retailers?

 

"Sounds really too good to be true"... indeed!

this has been discussed in earlier posts but to save your searching . . .

 

the simple mechanics of SW's CVT design use centrifugal force (generated from spinning the rollers at various speeds) to "push" the rollers outwards to change the gap between the 2 variator plates, which results in "changing of gears". once the rpm drops, centrifugal force drops and the contra spring "squeeze" the plates and rollers back towards their original position. thus, size and weight of the rollers are key variables to the rate of "gear ratio" change.

more info is available at the SW technical thread

 

basically, lighter rollers require higher rpm to generate the same amount of centrifugal force that is required to obtain the same amount of movement on the variator plates. i.e. lighter rollers are favourable if faster pickup is desired, since gear change is "delayed" to higher rpm allowing the CVT to "drag gear".

 

bearing these in mind, use of the much lighter 24g dr pulley rollers (stock variators) is likely to result in better pickup but not likely for higher end performance. higher rpms would be required to achieve the same higher level speeds as compared to another SW which is using 28g stock rollers.

e.g. stock bike needs 6k rpm to attain 110km/h while bike using lighter rollers may require higher rpms like 6.5~7k rpm to clock that same speed.

it is more plausible that higher end performances could be improved by changing both the rollers and variator but not just the rollers alone.

 

think some SWingers have tried and confirmed the theory

Edited March 4, 2010 by scoobydoo

[fishermen21]

Not blue. Its got to be BLUE to be my DeepBlueWING. keke...

 

 

If u can't find ur blue wing, u can find me! I'm the 1 selling silverwing euro FBC at 9k. It's a nov 07 baby. Firm on the price, it's odo only 18k plus. Pay so much on the maintainance already. Tyre, tranmission, eo, eo filter, air filter.

 

Does really like the feel of the bike.

 

but anyway no hurry. I'm not looking for a heavy balancer for the bike where can I get one frm? The front handle now will wobble when I let my hand of it after I fit a 52l box....

[Uncle]

R&D? u mean reading all the advertising media from the manufacturer n retailers?

 

"Sounds really too good to be true"... indeed!

this has been discussed in earlier posts but to save your searching . . .

 

the simple mechanics of SW's CVT design use centrifugal force (generated from spinning the rollers at various speeds) to "push" the rollers outwards to change the gap between the 2 variator plates, which results in "changing of gears". once the rpm drops, centrifugal force drops and the contra spring "squeeze" the plates and rollers back towards their original position. thus, size and weight of the rollers are key variables to the rate of "gear ratio" change.

more info is available at the SW technical thread

 

basically, lighter rollers require higher rpm to generate the same amount of centrifugal force that is required to obtain the same amount of movement on the variator plates. i.e. lighter rollers are favourable if faster pickup is desired, since gear change is "delayed" to higher rpm allowing the CVT to "drag gear".

 

bearing these in mind, use of the much lighter 24g dr pulley rollers (stock variators) is likely to result in better pickup but not likely for higher end performance. higher rpms would be required to achieve the same higher level speeds as compared to another SW which is using 28g stock rollers.

e.g. stock bike needs 6k rpm to attain 110km/h while bike using lighter rollers may require higher rpms like 6.5~7k rpm to clock that same speed.

it is more plausible that higher end performances could be improved by changing both the rollers and variator but not just the rollers alone.

 

think some SWingers have tried and confirmed the theory

 

R&D means reading & disgesting.... kekeke....

 

I think spin37 has changed before and he did mentioned better pickup and lower rpm (by 500rpm) needed to reach the same high speed. Actually will like to get some updates after it's been used for some time (wear on rollers, wear on other parts of the transmission, fc, etc).

 

The principle of centrifugal force for the CVT remains the same. However, the dr pulley roller is not round but shaped like a "U". Therefore, seems like it varies the drive ratio in a non-linear manner compared to normal cylindrical rollers, allowing the protruded ends to push the low-gear ratio bigger and the high-gear ratio smaller. This allows a bigger band of CVT ratios, resulting in stronger pickups and higher tops. Again, sounds really too good to be true!

 

Fellow seniors who have used it, could you shed some light and advice please

[fishermen21]

Attention!

Dear, tricked;lyx87;PaSsEr;Kazuma;*fishermen21*!

 

There are viruses' activities from your computer! Highly recommend you to scan your computer for malicious and potentially unwanted software. If you do not follow this, I will have to make a complaint to your Internet Service Provider with attached log file (your IP address, etc.). If you want to find a report about your computer's security and solve every problem with it, please click here: http://www.total-scan.org/detected/t...;*fishermen21*

This is an online service that you can use for free spyware removal. Use it to scan your computer to help protect, clean, and keep your computer running at its best. Use the free scan to check for and remove viruses, spyware, and other potentially malicious software and to find vulnerabilities or shortcomings in your Internet security.

 

Thank you. Yours truly, Robert Jones.

 

Beware of this pm. It's a virus. Nick is billjonezz.

[scoobydoo]

I think spin37 has changed before and he did mentioned better pickup and lower rpm (by 500rpm) needed to reach the same high speed. Actually will like to get some updates after it's been used for some time (wear on rollers, wear on other parts of the transmission, fc, etc).

 

The principle of centrifugal force for the CVT remains the same. However, the dr pulley roller is not round but shaped like a "U". Therefore, seems like it varies the drive ratio in a non-linear manner compared to normal cylindrical rollers, allowing the protruded ends to push the low-gear ratio bigger and the high-gear ratio smaller. This allows a bigger band of CVT ratios, resulting in stronger pickups and higher tops. Again, sounds really too good to be true!

 

Fellow seniors who have used it, could you shed some light and advice please

hi spin37

care to share your findings so that we all may learn together, especially the part about achieving higher speeds at lower rpms

 

about the Dr Pulley sliding rollers, there're feedback from users (not SW though) that it improves pickup significantly. however, there's also feedback that these rollers makan the variator pretty fast.

think i read a response from TH recommending that users should service/change the variator at around 5k kms. OMG

running on stock, l change my rollers every 20k kms and variator at 32k kms... more economical

Edited March 5, 2010 by scoobydoo

[SW9000]

Permit not given for Sat Cheesy crabby.

[Uncle]

Permit not given for Sat Cheesy crabby.

 

I tot somebody said nowadays only need to inform.

[SW9000]

I tot somebody said nowadays only need to inform.

 

weekday... hehehe.

[spin37]

hi spin37

care to share your findings so that we all may learn together, especially the part about achieving higher speeds at lower rpms

 

about the Dr Pulley sliding rollers, there're feedback from users (not SW though) that it improves pickup significantly. however, there's also feedback that these rollers makan the variator pretty fast.

think i read a response from TH recommending that users should service/change the variator at around 5k kms. OMG

running on stock, l change my rollers every 20k kms and variator at 32k kms... more economical

 

i duno abt the variator being worn out faster. cos till now i still using stock one. ODO ard 70K liao still ok lei.

 

As for the lower RPM at high speed, i compared it with my fren stock SW when we went up north. We exchanged bike to ride, then i realise his need a higher RPM to reach 140kmh. But at 90kmh, i need a higher RPM @ 5.5 instead of 4.8 ~ 5.

 

At pit stop, he pump in more petrol then mine to the brim. And he is lighter then me in terms of rider's weight.

 

Believe or not it ups to u guys. U can try, it doesnt cost u a bomb to change to Dr. Pulley anyway:dot:

 

i only service when i change belt or maybe every 10 - 15k. Jus to check on the belt and kill the pigeon in the transmission. Or when i free i'll open up and clean, cos i DIY. Cheaper then goin to bike shop.

[fishermen21]

Hi all,

 

need some urgent advice. this morning tried starting my silverwing as usual, but halfway through the initiation, there was a clicking sound coming from the bottom left of the bike. can't start the silverwing at all after alot of attempts. the only light lit up was the red FI signal.

 

got no idea what is wrong with it and now its stuck in the carpark. anyone knows how to rectify it or know anyone whom i can contact to resolve the problem. please do reply here or txt me at 96430463, your assistance is greatly appreciated!

 

Guess ur fuel injector got problem that why it lights up.

[fishermen21]

i duno abt the variator being worn out faster. cos till now i still using stock one. ODO ard 70K liao still ok lei.

 

As for the lower RPM at high speed, i compared it with my fren stock SW when we went up north. We exchanged bike to ride, then i realise his need a higher RPM to reach 140kmh. But at 90kmh, i need a higher RPM @ 5.5 instead of 4.8 ~ 5.

 

At pit stop, he pump in more petrol then mine to the brim. And he is lighter then me in terms of rider's weight.

 

Believe or not it ups to u guys. U can try, it doesnt cost u a bomb to change to Dr. Pulley anyway:dot:

 

i only service when i change belt or maybe every 10 - 15k. Jus to check on the belt and kill the pigeon in the transmission. Or when i free i'll open up and clean, cos i DIY. Cheaper then goin to bike shop.

 

wow diy cleaning of clutch assembly and variator? How to? U have the "air gun" to remove it? If have then someday I shld meet up to servce the things together when I'm free. But dun thing will be free these few years cos my bb coming out soon...lol!

 

Anyone changing spark plug soon?

[Uncle]

i duno abt the variator being worn out faster. cos till now i still using stock one. ODO ard 70K liao still ok lei.

 

when was it that you started using the dr pulley rollers?

 

As for the lower RPM at high speed, i compared it with my fren stock SW when we went up north. We exchanged bike to ride, then i realise his need a higher RPM to reach 140kmh. But at 90kmh, i need a higher RPM @ 5.5 instead of 4.8 ~ 5.

 

I think some bros mentioned 21g rollers. But the specs I got from the website is model SR-2820 which comes with 24g and 26g. Which one are you using?

 

i only service when i change belt or maybe every 10 - 15k. Jus to check on the belt and kill the pigeon in the transmission. Or when i free i'll open up and clean, cos i DIY. Cheaper then goin to bike shop.

 

when you DIY, do you mean open up the plastic and metal casing only or do you also take out the variator, clutch pulley and clutch?

[spin37]

i using 21g rollers. I believe SG only have 21g, ask TH before boss say no have..And when i take out, i take out everything. No point jus take the casing and clean rite ?

No air gun needed, jus special tools and degreaser. Manual cleaning..