SBF Silverwings / HOM Cafe 2012

[paithorn]

OK thanks....

[SW9000]

nothing is nice at genting... i'ld rather spend time at KL hunting bakut teh & wanton mee

 

KL traffic... I no dare go in.

Somemore got many Mat Rempit(?).

 

Will try the east coast someday, maybe to waterfalls or caves.

[paithorn]

go North best lah!!! right scooby??

[scoobydoo]

yes yes... north

[HelmetBOX1605198525]

yes yes... north

 

chairman... your HDD full liao le...

manage to put in season 3 4 5

[SW9000]

So quiet in office. Everybody take day off for Vesak today.

I'll take mine on Monday cos this afternoon got kickboxing aerobics to conduct.

Haha. Fat little me jumping on stage and fat little them following the moves.

[SW9000]

The pigeon in the bike getting bigger liaoz.

 

Need to find a way to kill it permanantly.

Wonder what causes it...?

Have to open it up and investigate.

 

Other than drilling holes (learnt from other web), anybody got any ideas?

[scoobydoo]

The pigeon in the bike getting bigger liaoz.

mine got pigeozilla liow... going down to K&T (or TH) next monday (sat sure long Q), intend to strip-n-clean the front rollers + rear clutch assemblies.

afterwhich go home n tune valve again

[paithorn]

The pigeon in the bike getting bigger liaoz.

 

Need to find a way to kill it permanantly.

Wonder what causes it...?

Have to open it up and investigate.

 

Other than drilling holes (learnt from other web), anybody got any ideas?

 

I am jungle survival trained.... want me to show you? It is basically "twist and pull".... 1 sec ond job...kekke

[spin37]

Anybody wans a variator holder to open up the variator, to clean / change belt ? Its self made, material is mild steel i tink..

 

interested pls PM me. =)

Edited May 8, 2009 by spin37

[SW9000]

mine got pigeozilla liow... going down to K&T (or TH) next monday (sat sure long Q), intend to strip-n-clean the front rollers + rear clutch assemblies.

afterwhich go home n tune valve again

 

haben tune properly yet?

[SW9000]

Anybody wans a variator holder to open up the variator ? Its self made, material is mild steel i tink..

 

interested pls PM me. =)

 

Nice to have variator holder but will still need the impact wrench to loosen the nuts, especially for the clutch.

Was thinking of the 12V impact wrench at $105...

 

Otherwise during oil change, will just ask bikeshop to help take out the parts and let me clean it myself. They'll charge for labour (to open and assemble).

[scoobydoo]

trying to get setting where auto choke revs up to about 15k in the morning before dropping back to 1250 when warmed up... still not there yet

[HelmetBOX1605198525]

trying to get setting where auto choke revs up to about 15k in the morning before dropping back to 1250 when warmed up... still not there yet

 

boss your hdd full liao..

how?

which season you dun have?

[spin37]

Nice to have variator holder but will still need the impact wrench to loosen the nuts, especially for the clutch.

Was thinking of the 12V impact wrench at $105...

 

Otherwise during oil change, will just ask bikeshop to help take out the parts and let me clean it myself. They'll charge for labour (to open and assemble).

 

got variator holder, still need impact wrench for wat ah

 

if got impact wrench i wont use holder le..

[scoobydoo]

Hi helmetBOX! i call you tomolo... think can delete some stuffs in the other partition

[SW9000]

got variator holder, still need impact wrench for wat ah

 

if got impact wrench i wont use holder le..

 

You mean with the variator holder in place can also loosen the nut at the clutch housing?

If can very the good le. But if cannot then can only complete the job at the variator side.

Cos my concern is more towards the clutch (pigeon noise) and the clutch material (metal bits that will scratch bell).

I want to periodically take out to check and clean if it is not too difficult a task.

Edited May 9, 2009 by SW9000

[babo]

Standard will blink at abt 12.5L = 300km (if FC is 24km/L).

Reserve of 84km and max mileage will be 384km.

 

Mine blinks at 12L, approx 300km too (slow rider).

Normally I pump petrol when blink blink +50km, about 350km with 50km to spare.

 

Hi,

 

Just checkin with u guys, mine bike de fuel bar blinks @ onli 270km is there anithin wrong wif it..?

[SW9000]

Hi,

 

Just checkin with u guys, mine bike de fuel bar blinks @ onli 270km is there anithin wrong wif it..?

 

How many litres do you fill after it blinks?

Using K & N air filter or other mods?

City travel most of the time?

 

You can try:

 

1. Fill up to the max very close to the opening. Mine always cover the small protruding markers at the side wall near to the opening.

2. Use Esso. I get better mileage. Some may differ.

3. Use lighter EO 10W40.

4. Tune your engine.

5. Easy move off from stand still.

 

Hmm... Mr Chairman scoobydoo might be able to give more suggestions.

[spin37]

You mean with the variator holder in place can also loosen the nut at the clutch housing?

If can very the good le. But if cannot then can only complete the job at the variator side.

Cos my concern is more towards the clutch (pigeon noise) and the clutch material (metal bits that will scratch bell).

I want to periodically take out to check and clean if it is not too difficult a task.

 

yup yup, can open up everything. the noise i tink is from the belt la, cos the belt slip that why got noise ma. Correct me if wrong.

 

anyway, i'm gonna throw away the holder if nobody wans. cos i jus make 1 more. the one i give away, maybe all u guys in the forum can share around.

[bigcow]

You mean with the variator holder in place can also loosen the nut at the clutch housing?

If can very the good le. But if cannot then can only complete the job at the variator side.

Cos my concern is more towards the clutch (pigeon noise) and the clutch material (metal bits that will scratch bell).

I want to periodically take out to check and clean if it is not too difficult a task.

 

wat spin37 is talking abt is using the variator holder to hold the variator in place so that it doesn't move. then u can use a normal wrench or spanner to open the variator. this had been done abt 6 years ago by a forumer.

to remove the whole clutch system, it got nothing to do the the variator. just jam your brakes will do the job. but to remove the clutch bell, you'll need a very big socket together with a impact wrench to do so. because the nut is big, thus holds stronger.

this variator holder is a very good to have thingy. its always good to have one. i ever experince the variator nut not tighten tight enough due to over looking. when its loose, your bike will move once engine is start & when stop, the bike is very difficult to push.

[babo]

How many litres do you fill after it blinks?

Using K & N air filter or other mods?

City travel most of the time?

 

You can try:

 

1. Fill up to the max very close to the opening. Mine always cover the small protruding markers at the side wall near to the opening.

2. Use Esso. I get better mileage. Some may differ.

3. Use lighter EO 10W40.

4. Tune your engine.

5. Easy move off from stand still.

 

Hmm... Mr Chairman scoobydoo might be able to give more suggestions.

 

Firstly, thanks for e info.

 

Normally once it blinks @ around 270km, i wil go pump arz around 13/L ( i didnt see the litres also arz once full @ e brim i stop pumpin le... ) I pumped Shell98 de...

I just took over tis bike not long ago ( about 1mth ) but from what i know it's not Mod... Mayb i can go check it... N oso does it varies anot e fuel comsumption if i'm ridin a JDM de ( more heavier, differ rollers, differ method of ridin, etc. ) as i know u guys mostly ridin EURO...

 

(u're gd also la... heEx been readin alotz from forum also sayin that ur bike is e best taken care of de arz inside out... )

[scoobydoo]

(u're gd also la... heEx been readin alotz from forum also sayin that ur bike is e best taken care of de arz inside out... )

there's no doubting to this... join us for the next kopi session n see for yourself

[babo]

there's no doubting to this... join us for the next kopi session n see for yourself

 

 

Yeah man i will if i have the time cause my work timing don't permits arz... Shift work... Even now i'm workin. . . Aniway thanks... Will try my best to fit in when there's a kopi seesion...

[scoobydoo]

babo: Normally once it blinks @ around 270km, i wil go pump arz around 13/L ( i didnt see the litres also arz once full @ e brim i stop pumpin le... ) I pumped Shell98 de...

scooby: if you are consistently clocking 270km with 13L, your FC is about 20.8km/L; ok for a JDM6 but on the high side for a JDM4 (read that some clocks about 22+km/L)... but a lot depends on age/mileage of bike and how you whack the throttle. for example, my 2006 manuf. 27+k kms euro4 usually clock about 25km/L (SW9000's even better) on Esso 5000 but there's someone in the group who consistently clocks around 23km/L

babo: I just took over tis bike not long ago ( about 1mth ) but from what i know it's not Mod... Mayb i can go check it...

scooby: what's the age n mileage now? have you done servicing after taking over? stock or modified? it is strongly recommended to know your ride well enough coz its not only a transport, but that one thing that could cause lots of inconvenience (e.g. batt flat) or even cost your life (e.g. accident). if already >24k kms, suggest get mech to check the transmission assemblies/pullies (rollers, belt, clutch, etc.) apart from the normal eo/filter change.

babo: N oso does it varies anot e fuel comsumption if i'm ridin a JDM de ( more heavier, differ rollers, differ method of ridin, etc. ) as i know u guys mostly ridin EURO...

scooby: generally, the stock euro has better FC over the stock JDM... think mainly becoz euro uses heavier rollers and JDM has the "overtaking" switch. nevertheless, a lot depends on the riders' "wrist power"