Feedback abt YBR

[yinghai]

ybr like that one.. clutch plate slip.. get new clutch plate or get harder clutch spring will slove the problem..

[vfrT]

But why would my clutch slip? I control my clutch and never throw my clutch.

 

Roid may be right. A clutch slips because it has worn ie the friction plate is not gripping as well thus spinning freely when the clutch is disengaged. You will likely feel the rpm going up suddenly without the corresponding speed increase as you go up a steep slope or when the engine is under heavy load.

 

To test if the clutch is slipping, do the following test.

1. Start engine and warm up engine to normal operating temp.

2. With the clutch pulled in, engage 1st gear.

3. Lock your front brakes to prevent the bike from moving.

4. Rev engine up and maintain at say 3000rpm and SLOWLY Release the clutch (while locking the front brake).

 

a. If the engine stalls immediately, the clutch is fine

b. If the engine jutters and sputters and continue to run as you release the clutch, then the clutch plates are worn and needs replacement (or the engine oil is not compatible with this engine - which is not very likely.)

[kawasakivoyager1700]

the ybr is made in china right? so i think the quality and reliability issues worse than thai made or japan made counterparts...

 

but you paid such a low price for it...have to give and take...

 

you pay for what you get...

[Roid]

CDC uses this as their training bike. Should be solid enough to let trainers abuse, rite?

[crazydj]

Roid may be right. A clutch slips because it has worn ie the friction plate is not gripping as well thus spinning freely when the clutch is disengaged. You will likely feel the rpm going up suddenly without the corresponding speed increase as you go up a steep slope or when the engine is under heavy load.

 

To test if the clutch is slipping, do the following test.

1. Start engine and warm up engine to normal operating temp.

2. With the clutch pulled in, engage 1st gear.

3. Lock your front brakes to prevent the bike from moving.

4. Rev engine up and maintain at say 3000rpm and SLOWLY Release the clutch (while locking the front brake).

 

a. If the engine stalls immediately, the clutch is fine

b. If the engine jutters and sputters and continue to run as you release the clutch, then the clutch plates are worn and needs replacement (or the engine oil is not compatible with this engine - which is not very likely.)

 

Bro! I tried what you say! I get part (b). About 3/4 of my clutch fully let go, my engine is still running. Only when fully let go it turns off! At 3k rpm, slowly it will reduce until 1.2 rpm then it dies. Is this normal?

 

Also, my mech said this could be my clutch plates. He quote me original clutch plates is below $100. Exactly how much he said he wouldnt know until he orders the thing and does it. He says normal bike original clutch plate is 100 plus about 150, which in my opinion, is a tuckload of crap. I wouldnt know. I feel like going to Hong Leong and asking. You guys know original clutch plate normal how much?

 

I also asked him whether YBR got 2 sets of clutch plates, he said only one. The other side are magnets. Is this true?

 

My friend says that my sproket is sharp. Which i think its not and my mech think that its not. I have a feeling that my drive sproket it slightly worn. Wah sian man. I bo pian have to keep this bike no money to change bike. What do you guys think?

 

EDIT: If i go to Hong Leong, do i need to book an appointment or just ride there?

Edited July 22, 2009 by crazydj

[vfrT]

Bro! I tried what you say! I get part (b). About 3/4 of my clutch fully let go, my engine is still running. Only when fully let go it turns off! At 3k rpm, slowly it will reduce until 1.2 rpm then it dies. Is this normal?

 

Also, my mech said this could be my clutch plates. He quote me original clutch plates is below $100. Exactly how much he said he wouldnt know until he orders the thing and does it. He says normal bike original clutch plate is 100 plus about 150, which in my opinion, is a tuckload of crap. I wouldnt know. I feel like going to Hong Leong and asking. You guys know original clutch plate normal how much?

 

I also asked him whether YBR got 2 sets of clutch plates, he said only one. The other side are magnets. Is this true?

 

My friend says that my sproket is sharp. Which i think its not and my mech think that its not. I have a feeling that my drive sproket it slightly worn. Wah sian man. I bo pian have to keep this bike no money to change bike. What do you guys think?

 

EDIT: If i go to Hong Leong, do i need to book an appointment or just ride there?

 

Based on yr description it looks like yr friction clutch plate is worn. If yr mileage is high and the bike was subjected to high loads, it highly likely that thats normal wear. There are two types of clutch plate. One is called just clutch plate while the other is the friction plate. (see here for an idea http://www.dansmc.com/typical_yamyz_clutch.JPG). Never heard of magnetic clutch as per yr mech. If he cannot quote for a simple clutch change, he sounds dubious to me. Call HL for a quote then shop around. I recommend Unique Motors.

 

2. If yr sprocket/s teeth are sharp - then its worn. You MUST change the front & rear sprocket and the drive chain as a set otherwise the individual part will wear very quickly. Take good care to lube the chain every tankful of gas or when you wash or ride in the rain or when the chain roller starts to shine. This will stretch the life of the set. Mine's on the same set fro the last 100,000km and still fine.

 

If u like, I can do a once over for you to be sure FOC haha, but it has to be by Thurs tmr or after Monday as I'll be leaving on a ride up north from Fr.

 

cheers

Edited July 23, 2009 by vfrT

[crazydj]

Based on yr description it looks like yr friction clutch plate is worn. If yr mileage is high and the bike was subjected to high loads, it highly likely that thats normal wear. There are two types of clutch plate. One is called just clutch plate while the other is the friction plate. (see here for an idea http://www.dansmc.com/typical_yamyz_clutch.JPG). Never heard of magnetic clutch as per yr mech. If he cannot quote for a simple clutch change, he sounds dubious to me. Call HL for a quote then shop around. I recommend Unique Motors.

 

2. If yr sprocket/s teeth are sharp - then its worn. You MUST change the front & rear sprocket and the drive chain as a set otherwise the individual part will wear very quickly. Take good care to lube the chain every tankful of gas or when you wash or ride in the rain or when the chain roller starts to shine. This will stretch the life of the set. Mine's on the same set fro the last 100,000km and still fine.

 

cheers

 

Thanks for your offer bro! Yeah. He was saying that one side is the plate, the other side is a strong magnet. Is he legit? All these happened when i left my bike at the shop for 3 hours. He went to charge my battery and when i collected it, the next day, everything bad happened.

 

Anyway, i got an email from HL, they asked me to come down to their place at Paya Lebar. I live in the east anyway i wouldnt mind dropping there. Do i need to book an appointment or can i just drop by? I think if i were to change at HL, i would ask for a new set of clutch plates, clutch cable and new front/rear sproket with stock chain. After all, a few hundred bucks i find is worth it since my life is on the line. Ever got happen before that i needed the power to move off, but my gears just didnt fully engage and i was moving so slowly at a junction. How much do you think a set of clutch plates, clutch cable, sprokets + chain costs? All stock? Thanks!

Edited July 23, 2009 by crazydj

[vfrT]

Thanks for your offer bro! Yeah. He was saying that one side is the plate, the other side is a strong magnet. Is he legit? All these happened when i left my bike at the shop for 3 hours. He went to charge my battery and when i collected it, the next day, everything bad happened.

 

Anyway, i got an email from HL, they asked me to come down to their place at Paya Lebar. I live in the east anyway i wouldnt mind dropping there. Do i need to book an appointment or can i just drop by? I think if i were to change at HL, i would ask for a new set of clutch plates, clutch cable and new front/rear sproket with stock chain. After all, a few hundred bucks i find is worth it since my life is on the line. Ever got happen before that i needed the power to move off, but my gears just didnt fully engage and i was moving so slowly at a junction. How much do you think a set of clutch plates, clutch cable, sprokets + chain costs? All stock? Thanks!

 

Since you've decided on HL, ride yr bike down to them & they would be able to advise you on the need for appt tho I'm pretty sure its best that you do as they tend to have a queue. I suggest you tell HL the symptoms and let HL diagnose if its really a clutch problem rather than tell them it is a clutch problem.

 

I really dont think it will cost a few hundreds to do both the clutch and drive - I guess maybe at best $200 for all of them. Sorry can't be precise as I don't own a YBR;).

 

While you are at it, may I suggest you check the brake pad wear and the brake fluid as this indeed is a life saving thingy ya. If the brake fluid is dark and opaque, change the brake fluid. Both of these are really not expensive but is crucial.

Edited July 23, 2009 by vfrT

[aprilia]

@crazydj: Post here once you got the exact prices of the items that you have replaced at HL for our info.

[crazydj]

AHA! I took leave today, and went down to where i parked my bike.

 

1) Turned on ignition -->Neutral light going, going gone.

2) Unable to electric start

3) No power for totally EVERYTHING!

 

Thank God i have kick start. Kick one time. Always works like a charm. I then rode to HL like a mad dog. Headlight flashing dim and off like my bike was having disco. Signal lights flash so fast. When i press both my brakes, my signal lights become solid. Oh dear. Rode to HL. They were so busy. There was this cute chinese/malay girl, nerdy looking kinda cute. Anyway, i asked the guy beside her. "I want to talk to one of your mechanics ah!" And talk to him for a bit, he point me to an old uncle mechanic.

 

I explained to him my dilemma. His response? I felt totally cannot make it. Cannot give me what could be wrong. Straight away say, need to check whole wiring system. Cannot say how much. When they do, find whats wrong, then change then charge. So i asked him how much for you just to do wiring diagnostic. $40 he quote. Feeling desperate, i apporached the "Head". Asked him when can be done. He say cannot so fast. He say YBR wiring very complicated take a long time. He say best in come back monday so i can have my bike on the weekend. Okay lor, i left HL and rode to my trusted mech.

 

On my way to the mech, at 30km/h, my rpm needle stuck at 7k! Haha! I was like, confirm electronics screwed man. When i reach my mech, tell him everything. He look at my bike, no neutral light. He brought it in and changed for me new battery because when my bike on my batt only 7V. Then swee. Now working fine. And he went to sand my front brakes. He say saturday i come back, he test ride to settle my clutch problem. If got problem, he ask me what to change. So he say dont need to pay first. Come saturday then pay.

 

But now when riding, my front brakes so noisy when i just ride, but when press, no sound. Where can i get brake cleaner ah?

 

Whoa. What a day man. HL in my opinion, quite professional but really busy. And the experience with the mechs make me a bit suspuscious of them. But then again, better safe than sorry i think. Now i see whether got more starting problems and update you guys. But i no time to talk to the girl at HL.

[Roid]

Can i koe who/where yr trusted mech?

[crazydj]

Hey Bros! I finally changed my clutch plates. 4 in total. My pick up improved significantly. Very easy to pick up speed. But the problem now is that my top speed is HORRIBLE! Very difficult to reach 90km/h. Hit 80km/h and its very smooth and comfortable. Hit about 98km/h and that is my max speed. Last time about 103km/h. What to do. YBR. But my clutch problem solved already. Thanks guys!

[yinghai]

ybr wiring is one of the easiest.. check manuals.. all very straigght forward..

[crazydj]

ybr wiring is one of the easiest.. check manuals.. all very straigght forward..

 

Exactly! I was looking at the manual and i only have secondary school D&T wiring knowledge and i more or less understand the diagrams. I don't know what Hong Leong mechs were trying to pull. Anyone got any weird experiences with them?

[crazydj]

Hi guys!

 

I changed my clutch plates a few weeks back. Then nowadays, when i start my bike cold and after warmed it up, when i from neutral wanna switch to gear one, my bike will stall. There will be a hard and a little loud "pak" coming from my gearbox. I have to rev my engine a little to prevent my bike from stalling. This only happens early in the morning and not when i am coming back from work or what not. What could be the problem here?

 

Secondly, my gearshifting feels very hard and sluggish after a few weeks i change my clutch plates. I know its time to change my EO, but should i stick with my semi synthetic or switch to mineral first?

 

BTW, now my bike is operating at normal after a few days of riding! I can reach my top speed easily! 100km/h only.

 

Thanks all!

[crazydj]

You guys know how often YBR air filter must clean? My mech say once a year can already. Because its not like the K&N air filter or what. Is this true? So far i dont feel any difference yet. I dont ride in dusty and wet places.

[bente9]

YbR is a wonderful bike....we have about 3 riders on ybr in our club!!

[crazydj]

How guys? Help?

[ProFatSir]

Exactly! I was looking at the manual and i only have secondary school D&T wiring knowledge and i more or less understand the diagrams. I don't know what Hong Leong mechs were trying to pull. Anyone got any weird experiences with them?

 

is very easy and simple.go figure it.

 

Hi guys!

 

I changed my clutch plates a few weeks back. Then nowadays, when i start my bike cold and after warmed it up, when i from neutral wanna switch to gear one, my bike will stall. There will be a hard and a little loud "pak" coming from my gearbox. I have to rev my engine a little to prevent my bike from stalling. This only happens early in the morning and not when i am coming back from work or what not. What could be the problem here?

 

Secondly, my gearshifting feels very hard and sluggish after a few weeks i change my clutch plates. I know its time to change my EO, but should i stick with my semi synthetic or switch to mineral first?

 

BTW, now my bike is operating at normal after a few days of riding! I can reach my top speed easily! 100km/h only.

 

Thanks all!

 

human feeling.try to adjust the crab idling higher a little bit.

 

You guys know how often YBR air filter must clean? My mech say once a year can already. Because its not like the K&N air filter or what. Is this true? So far i dont feel any difference yet. I dont ride in dusty and wet places.

 

when you feel you bike is choking.time to change a filter

remove 6 mth to check the condition.

if u dun ride in dusty/wet condition should be ok to last you a year.

if you rich every servicing can change..

 

How guys? Help?

 

help given!

[crazydj]

Thank you very much Mr Tonychan!

 

Regarding the little loud "pak" coming from my gearbox when i switch to gear 1 from neutral, is this normal? After my bike has warmed up, my idling is 1.7k-1.8k. I like a high idling because it would be easier to start my bike in the morning. When i am neutral and i rev my engine with my rear wheel "floating" on main stand, the wheel would move. If i apply brake, the engine wont stall. Is this normal? Thanks!

 

EDIT: Bro, how you get your Class 4A ah? I thought this one special for SBS only?

Edited August 12, 2009 by crazydj

[crazydj]

Guys

 

I tried checking both the YBR User and service manual and i cannot find the size of the drain bolt. May i know what is the exact size of the drain bolt so that i can remove it? I intend to start changing my's bike Engine Oil myself. Thanks.

[madcat]

I had neglected to change the oil on my YBR for quite some time, now even after I had changed the oil and spark plug, the engine will start to feel "rough" when I accelerate beyond 80km/h

 

It is usually fine in the morning, starts up fine with no roughness but in the evening on the way back from work it will be noticeably rougher when I try to go faster than 80-90km/h

 

Any advice? It is really a great transport bike, I regret not taking better care of it!

[crazydj]

Hmm... That is weird. Normally it gets rough in the morning and gets very smooth when the bike is running hot. Then my EO can flow nicely, gear shifting is a breeze and engine runs much smoother. What oil you put?

 

Tell you what, for your next EO, you change brand and switch to semi synthetic. See whether got diff. I used to put semi-synthetic Mobil extra 4T in my bike, but i switched to mineral Agip Super, it runs much better than the Mobil semi-synthetic even though my agip is mineral.

 

Next EO change, Maxima!

[crazydj]

I wanna ask you guys how often your tail light gets blown. In a span of a few months, my tail light has blown again. The brake light is working but the tail light is blown again. Is this common with alot of bikes?

[ggc9898]

bro some times the bulb quality is in doubt.

i kanan before on my cbf150.

try changing to another brand of bulb .