batteries

[amir6389]

hi there..

wanna ask abt batteries. is there any/what r e effects of using a different battery rating other than e ones specified 4 e bike..

like for example my bike uses 12V6Ah batt but im using sumting lower which is 12V4Ah...gt any effects?

any electrical techs care to give some comments..

[Raptor]

Lower cranking power...sometimes when the engine is hot... you will have difficulty cranking it over to start.

 

It is better to have a higher ampere hours.

[schwein.bissen]

Lower cranking power...sometimes when the engine is hot... you will have difficulty cranking it over to start.

 

It is better to have a higher ampere hours.

Yup ... A battery with a higher Ah (ampere-hour) rating generally has a better CCA (cold cranking amps) rating ...

 

A battery with a higher Ah rating is also more tolerant to periods of time when your bike's accessories (e.g. headlights on with horn pressed) are consuming high amounts of current.

 

The bike manufacturer recommended a certain rating of battery because the bike's electrical system has been designed as a whole. It is best to replace a battery with one of the same Ah rating.

 

Want a better battery? Get a sealed lead-acid (SLA), also known as maintenance-free (MF) type. YUASA is a good brand, but check the spelling to ensure it's not YAUSA or some other counterfeit.

 

In the event that the bike has extra electrical accessories (e.g. amp and speakers, or cigarette lighter socket for charging PDA phones / GPS / inverter), you may wish to up the Ah rating by a little.

[Demon]

hi there..

wanna ask abt batteries. is there any/what r e effects of using a different battery rating other than e ones specified 4 e bike..

like for example my bike uses 12V6Ah batt but im using sumting lower which is 12V4Ah...gt any effects?

any electrical techs care to give some comments..

 

Technically, you should not be using a lower capacity rating battery than recommended by the manufacturer because the single biggest consumption is the cranking amp during e-start. So the general wisdom is a battery with a higher capacity is never detrimental.

 

Having said that, if your bike has both e-start as well as kick start, then it doesn't really matter if you are using a lower capacity battery.

 

[amir6389]

yep..thanks fer e advices.. anw where is best to get e batts? ah boy oso hav rite?

[amir6389]

den wat if im getting a batt wif a higher rating than suppose.. will e batt able to charge properly.?

[Aalex82]

den wat if im getting a batt wif a higher rating than suppose.. will e batt able to charge properly.?

 

the batt will not able to charge properly cos the electrcial system is design as a whole.. same as wat schwein.bissen posted..

the rect is onli design to charge the original batt spec..

[amir6389]

uhuh..cleared my doubts now.. =)

[autodesk]

ive juz service my carb..im riding 125z anw, after the setting done, ive noticed when i rev, the rpm response slower than before i service..any ways to get dt settings back..quick response when rev like before..any help is nice man!

[FunkyChicken]

lower amp ratings then ur oem would cause insufficient power supply to ur bike.

ffor my super4, i use 12v9ah instead of 12v6ah. bike feels more responsive.

[amir6389]

so tis is e problem now..my bike if 2 days nvr use, den hard to start or it wont start.. when bike is off voltage read as 12.2V but when running its 13.8V, better still when rev it even reach 14.6V.. so i assume e charging is fine..

(off 12.2V,on 13.8V,rev 14.6V)

im not sure if starter is e prob, cos if it is den starting would always b difficult.but tis is different cos if evryday start den it would start easily..correct me if im wrong..

 

lucky got vanson batt charger, but don wish to use it often..

so wat could be e possible faults?

[limbat]

so tis is e problem now..my bike if 2 days nvr use, den hard to start or it wont start.. when bike is off voltage read as 12.2V but when running its 13.8V, better still when rev it even reach 14.6V.. so i assume e charging is fine.. (off 12.2V,on 13.8V,rev 14.6V)

im not sure if starter is e prob, cos if it is den starting would always b difficult.but tis is different cos if evryday start den it would start easily..correct me if im wrong..

 

lucky got vanson batt charger, but don wish to use it often..

so wat could be e possible faults?

 

Pls note - hard to start meaning got cranking ornot or simply engine cannot fire up.

[Battery Doctor]

so tis is e problem now..my bike if 2 days nvr use, den hard to start or it wont start.. when bike is off voltage read as 12.2V but when running its 13.8V, better still when rev it even reach 14.6V.. so i assume e charging is fine..

(off 12.2V,on 13.8V,rev 14.6V)

im not sure if starter is e prob, cos if it is den starting would always b difficult.but tis is different cos if evryday start den it would start easily..correct me if im wrong..

 

lucky got vanson batt charger, but don wish to use it often..

so wat could be e possible faults?

 

Hi All. A 12V starter battery should give you 12.75V when its fully charged. Also, do check your if your CCA is to its specification. Maybe I can also clear up why you have 3 different readings.

1) Off voltage: 12.2V, thats your real battery reading.

2) On Voltage: 13.8V, thats because this is the charging voltage reading from the alternator (I think there is another name for it in relationship to M/C)

3) Rev voltage: 14.6V, thats because charging voltage will varies according to the RPM, so the higher the rev the higher the voltage, but it will stop at its peak by the rectifier.

 

From your battery reading (ie. 12.2V), your battery seems to be undercharged. At the same time, you battery seems to loses its charge abit too soon, do check for electrical leakages. If you seldom use your bike, your battery maybe be experiencing acid stratification. That means, have volotage but no CCA.

Edited September 7, 2009 by Battery Doctor

[Battery Doctor]

In order for starter battery to perform, its recommended to maintain full charge at all times (ie. 12.75V).

 

For motorcycle applications, there are only 2 types of battery. Namely,

1) Maintenance Free (MF) AGM type. These are the type that comes with an acid pack, and be filled in order to activate it. These batteries has a higher CCA and can be placed in any position without resulting in any leakage. This is because when the acid is poured into the cells, they are absorbed by the glass matt surounding the lead plates. Thus, its only moist and not wet. With such construction, the manufacturer are able to squeeze in more lead plates in the same volume, thus resulting in higher CCA for the same size of battery compared to the conventional battery.

2) Conventional type. These are the batteries which we call wet cells, they have to be regularly maintained by topping up the electrolyte with distilled water. These batteries have a lower CCA as there are lesser lead plates compared to the MF AGM batteries as more volume space are required for the electrolyte (acid). These batteries can only be placed upright, otherwise there will be leakages

3) Sealed Lead Acid batteries. These are NOT starter batteries. These batteries are use to power electrical devices and are not meant for starting an engine, we called these kind of batteries Deep cycle batteries. They will give a constant low amperage but will not give the kind of burst of energy as required by an engine. Thats the difference between a starter battery and a deep cycle battery.

 

Hope my 2 cents worth of information can clear up some misunderstanding. Cheers!

[Battery Doctor]

Acid stratification, a problem with luxury cars

 

A common cause of battery failure is acid stratification. The electrolyte on a stratified battery concentrates on the bottom, causing the upper half of the cell to be acid poor. This effect is similar to a cup of coffee in which the sugar collects on the bottom when the waitress forgets to bring the stirring spoon. Batteries tend to stratify if kept at low charge (below 80%) and never have the opportunity to receive a full charge. Short distance driving while running windshield wiper and electric heaters contributes to this. Acid stratification reduces the overall performance of the battery.

 

Figure 1 illustrates a normal battery in which the acid is equally distributed form top to bottom. This battery provides good performance because the correct acid concentration surrounds the plates. Figure 2 shows a stratified battery in which the acid concentration is light on top and heavy on the bottom. A light acid limits plate activation, promotes corrosion and reduces performance. High acid concentration on the bottom, on the other hand, artificially raises the open circuit voltage. The battery appears fully charged but provides a low CCA. High acid concentration also promotes sulfation and decreases the already low conductivity further. If unchecked, such a condition will eventually lead to battery failure.

 

 

 

Figure 1: Normal battery

The acid is equally distributed from the top to the bottom in the cell and provides maximum CCA and capacity.

 

 

 

 

Figure 2: Stratified battery

The acid concentration is light on top and heavy on the bottom. High acid concentration artificially raises the open circuit voltage. The battery appears fully charged but has a low CCA. Excessive acid concentration induces sulfation on the lower half of the plates.

 

Allowing the battery to rest for a few days, applying a shaking motion or tipping the unit over tends to correct the problem. A topping charge by which the 12-volt battery is brought up to 16 volts for one to two hours also reverses the acid stratification. The topping charge also reduces sulfation caused by high acid concentration. Careful attention is needed to keep the battery from heating up and losing excessive electrolyte through hydrogen gassing. Always charge the battery in a well-ventilated room. Accumulation of hydrogen gas can lead to an explosion. Hydrogen is odorless and can only be detected with measuring devices.

 

Information extracted from

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/parttwo-42B.htm

[limbat]

Cool man thanks for in the battery informations ...............

[Battery Doctor]

Cool man thanks for in the battery informations ...............

 

No Problem....I just hope I don't confuse the already confused!

[limbat]

Mr. Chan, now i understand batteries better, i am going to change all our electric forklifts to deep cycle batteries. But problem is trying to get them in the right size.

[Frostb3ar]

another side question: when recharging the motorcycle battery (a sealed 12N9-BS battery), is it normal for the sides of the battery to cave in a little?

[Terrible One]

Hi All. A 12V starter battery should give you 12.75V when its fully charged. Also, do check your if your CCA is to its specification. Maybe I can also clear up why you have 3 different readings.

1) Off voltage: 12.2V, thats your real battery reading.

2) On Voltage: 13.8V, thats because this is the charging voltage reading from the alternator (I think there is another name for it in relationship to M/C)

3) Rev voltage: 14.6V, thats because charging voltage will varies according to the RPM, so the higher the rev the higher the voltage, but it will stop at its peak by the rectifier.

 

From your battery reading (ie. 12.2V), your battery seems to be undercharged. At the same time, you battery seems to loses its charge abit too soon, do check for electrical leakages. If you seldom use your bike, your battery maybe be experiencing acid stratification. That means, have volotage but no CCA.

 

Thanks for all your usefull info.

 

So are car batt reading be the same as bikes? What's the healthy range and when should we replace the batt(ie below 12.xxV)?

[limbat]

Battery reconditioning this Sun 22nd Nov Morning 9.30-1pm only - FOC,

 

Pls call 93891138....for more details.

 

All are welcome ................