How to change your motorcycle's engine oil

[crazydj]

Hello everyone!

 

I would like to share with all my guide on how i changed my YBR's engine oil. This guide may be similiar to changing the engine oil of other small cc street bikes and cubs as well.

 

Before we start, you will need the following items and tools. Please note that the items and tools below were used for changing my Yamaha YBR 125's engine oil and will vary from bike to bike.

 

Items:-

1) Socket wrench Size 17

2) Plastic container that is preferably of a low profile and is able to contain at least the oil capacity of your engine

3) Plastic funnel

4) Some old newspaper

5) New engine oil

6) Oil filter (if applicable)

7) Torque wrench (if applicable)

8) A pair of Pliers

 

Step 1: Preparing your motorcycle

I will have to say that preparing your motorcycle for an oil change is one of the most important steps of changing your bike's oil. You will have to prepare your items and tools listed above and place them within reach of your motorcycle. You don't want a situation where the oil is overflowing and you have to run all the way back to your house to get an extra container don't you?

 

First up, you have to place your motorcyle on the main stand. If you motorcycle doesn't have a mainstand, use a motorcycle paddock stand if you have one. Warm up your engine for a minute or so. If you were already riding, wait for the oil to cool. For my case, i waited 15 minutes but my engine oil was still extremely hot. After which, place the newspapers below your engine and place the container directly under the engine oil drain bolt.

Step 2: Draining the oil engine oil

Before you loosen and remove the engine oil drain bolt, it is recommended that you open up the oil filler cap with a pair of pliers. This would mean that when the oil is being drained, it would properly drain out because air can enter the engine to displace the drained oil.

 

Use your socket wrench to loosen and open the engine oil drain bolt of your engine. Remember not to let the drain bolt to drop into the container. If it does happen like in my case, wait for the hot oil to cool down before you fish it out. My engine oil was still so hot i had to use a funnel and another container to extract it.

 

After all the oil engine oil has been drained, you can replace the old oil filter with a new one, if applicable. Oil filters vary from bike to bike, so i will leave that to your own judgement on how to replace it. Lucky for me, my YBR doesn't have one.

 

Once you have replaced your oil filter, you have to screw back your engine oil drain bolt back into the engine case. Remember to screw back the bolt to the correct torque specifications which is listed in your manual. Use a torque wrench if you have one. I don't own one so when i removed my engine oil drain bolt from the start, i tried to remember the amount of force needed to remove it and used the same amount of force accordingly.

 

Step 3: Filling up your motorcycle with new oil

Now, its time to fill up your crankcase with the engine oil of your choice. For me, i used Maxima Extra 4T Fully Synthetic 10W40. Remember the plastic funnel? Pour your new engine oil into the crankcase with the plastic funnel until you can get every single drop into the engine. Once you are done, close the oil filler cap and tighten with the pair of pliers.

 

Step 4: Running the engine

I will not hesistate to stress the importance of not turning on your engine with no engine oil in it. Never ever do this and only turn on your engine once it is filled up with engine oil.

 

Once you get the engine running, check for any oil leaks especially around the engine oil drain bolt and the oil filler cap. If there is, check the cause of it and solve it accordingly. Wait for a few minutes for the oil to circulate before you take it out for a spin.

 

Step 5: Cleaning up

Alas, we reached the part where everyone hates. Cleaning up. Well, you got to do it whether you like it or not.

 

First, you have to pour your used engine oil back into the engine oil bottle. I used a funnel so that it would be easier. Dispose of the newspapers properly and wipe the spilt oil with degreaser and an old rag. Wipe your crankcase as well. Once your're done, you'll be a happy guy or gal with new engine oil in your precious motorcycle!

 

Note:-

1) Remember to dispose your used engine oil properly. Never pour the oil oil down drains, pour on grass or throw into dustbins. They are really harmful chemicals that is really bad for the environment. Really, really bad. Can you imagine if the engine oil is poured into a resovoir and you drank the water? Yup, nasty. I went to throw my engine oil into an oil drum outside a bike shop. You can also dispose your used oil to your bike shop for free or perhaps for a nominal fee.

2) The author, crazydj or/and SBF is/are not resposible for and faults/actions/damages that you may have caused to your motorcycle(s)/yourself/others. This is merely a guide and it is up to your own judgement to assess every situation and to adapt accordingly.

3) If you are not confident to change your motorcycle's engine oil or lack the necessary tools, please ask your mechanic at your bike shop to do it for you. This guide is for those who intend to Do-It-Yourself(DIY). It may be more feasible for the mechanic at your bike shop to change it for you, but it may not be feasible for everyone.

 

NB: Moderators, if possible, please make this a sticky so that we all can learn and share from each other. Thanks!

Edited September 12, 2009 by crazydj

[Hydher]

1. give the plug a good blunt knock before opening. it helps to loosen it.

2. Buy a close ended good quality 8 sided hexagon wrench.

[Phang]

1. give the plug a good blunt knock before opening. it helps to loosen it.

2. Buy a close ended good quality 8 sided hexagon wrench.

 

That's unusual for motorcycle to have octagonal fastener

[crazydj]

That's what i thought. How can a hexagonal wrench be 8 sided?

[Aalex82]

maybe he mention is a wrench wif 8 sides of diff sizes??

like a flower shape..

[crazydj]

Flower shape then how to turn sia? The "petals" sure all over the place one! Maybe its the foldable wrench we never see before?

[Hydher]

oh man.. what i mean is get a one with a good exact fit. unlike those with x 2 the sides which rounds the nut.

[crazydj]

oh man.. what i mean is get a one with a good exact fit. unlike those with x 2 the sides which rounds the nut.

 

Bro, you mean a socket wrench like the one i mentioned?

[loufu]

Bro, you mean a socket wrench like the one i mentioned?

 

maybe he is saying tis 1

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/6827/25561573257e9e13ae59o.th.jpg

[aprilia]

If you are going to diy yourself then is better to change it in the day before you ride your bike so that the engine oil is still cold.

 

Changing engine oil while its still hot will cause leakage the next day.

[NightPhantom]

If you are going to diy yourself then is better to change it in the day before you ride your bike so that the engine oil is still cold.

 

Changing engine oil while its still hot will cause leakage the next day.

 

r u 100% sure abt this? i seriously doubt a warm engine oil will cause leakage.... leakage frm where anyway?

 

i always believe that the oil should be circulated and warm before draining.... anyone?

[aprilia]

Yes..It will leak from your engine oil drain bolt.

 

But if you ride to motorshop to change engine oil then is best to wait 15-30mins before changing it.

[Aalex82]

r u 100% sure abt this? i seriously doubt a warm engine oil will cause leakage.... leakage frm where anyway?

 

i always believe that the oil should be circulated and warm before draining.... anyone?

 

wat he mention is due to the expansion of metal and result in smaller diameter of the drain hole while the engine is still hot..

when u tied the plug back while the engine is hot, the hole will increase in size after it is cool down. so the tightness of the bolt is no longer there..

[Phang]

If you use a new drain bolt washer and torque it to the correct specification, it will not leak (not even a slight weeping in my case) whether you do it hot, warm or cold

 

[Demon]

wat he mention is due to the expansion of metal and result in smaller diameter of the drain hole while the engine is still hot..

 

 

You are not correct to state that when the metal expand, the drain hole will become smaller.

 

Going by linear expansion coefficient, every linear dimension increases by the same percentage with a change in temperature, including holes.

 

The only reason why we should only change oil after the engine has cooled so as not to be scalded by the hot oil.

 

For quick oil change turnaround, in most car garages, they use the vacuum tank to suck the hot oil out of the engine instead of draining it. No wastage of time as there is no need for the car to cool down.

 

[mepkoh]

i would do it in the morning after...

when all the EO has drained into the sump.

hot engine change is a no no...

safety reason and the drain bolt can be esaily damaged..ie you may end up with drunken threads.

[Phang]

I have tried this on one of my bike before.

 

I drained the engine oil when it‘s warm and put back the drain bolt when the sump hole had stop dripping (about 15 minutes).

 

Without filling up the engine with fresh engine oil I let it sit for 24 hours to see how much oil will drain into the sump. When I removed the drain bolt again the next day, there was about a teaspoonful of oil dripped out

[Aalex82]

You are not correct to state that when the metal expand, the drain hole will become smaller.

 

Going by linear expansion coefficient, every linear dimension increases by the same percentage with a change in temperature, including holes.

 

The only reason why we should only change oil after the engine has cooled so as not to be scalded by the hot oil.

 

For quick oil change turnaround, in most car garages, they use the vacuum tank to suck the hot oil out of the engine instead of draining it. No wastage of time as there is no need for the car to cool down.

 

 

Wat u mention is correct. Metal expand linearly in general. I dun understand wat u wanna explain..

[crazydj]

maybe he is saying tis 1

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/6827/25561573257e9e13ae59o.th.jpg

 

Well, isn't that a spark plug wrench? Mustafa Classifies that as one!

 

Anyway, regarding the leaking EO when changing with a hot engine, i waited about 15 to 20 mins to change my EO after a long ride. The next day or the day after until even now, my EO has never leaked from my crankcase. When i chage at bikeshop also before, my mech drains it hot and till now, no EO has dripped from the crankcase.

[Mageswaran_g]

After you have changed your oil, fiddle the clutch in your next start up of the engine.

It helps to create a uniform film around the clutch components and the drive train(esp. in manual bikes).

Prevents your clutch from "grabbing" when you engage into gear.

I read it a long time back.

Tried, tested and true for 3 years and still counting since I first started changing my own motorcycle oil.

 

THE REASON WHY ONE WOULD CHANGE THEIR OIL IS THE CONTROL OF VOLUME!

I have noticed many mechs filling the oil by mere estimation.

For myself, I measure it out with a measuring cylinder and then I fill it.

Fail safe method.

 

Cheers

[ORen]

Hi,

 

Nice thread ! thanks

Would be nice to have photos of the procedure step by step, if anyone is keen..

 

But how do you dispose of the old oil after you drained it ? There has to be some regulations as to where to throw it, right ?

 

About the clutch fiddling, what do you mean Mages, like pull and release the clutch a few times before starting the bike ?

[crazydj]

Hi,

 

Nice thread ! thanks

Would be nice to have photos of the procedure step by step, if anyone is keen..

 

But how do you dispose of the old oil after you drained it ? There has to be some regulations as to where to throw it, right ?

 

About the clutch fiddling, what do you mean Mages, like pull and release the clutch a few times before starting the bike ?

 

When you dispose the oil, bring the used EO to any mechanic. For me, i would just go to the nearest bike shop, (walking distance) and pour it into the oil drum outside the shop.

 

Pump your clutch after you change your EO is to let the oil circulate. As the clutch and engine share the same 'pool" of oil, it can help to circulate the oil a little and also creates a new 'film' of oil around your clutch. Every morning, i will pump my clutch before i start my bike as i realised the engine will be easier to start.

[mild_slevin]

at times I found some black viscose substance around the drain nut, first I thought its E.O. leak but it happen only for a short period of time. Later I realise that its chain lube not E.O., once you over saturate the chain with lube after long journey you'll find them all over the place.

 

Does you guys flush/rinse the engine before filling up with new E.O.?

[crazydj]

Yeah, i got conned by myself when i first got my bike. I thought engine leaking. Then my mech told me it was the chain. After a while, i realised it was really the chain flinging all the crap below my engine/mainstand/sidestand/rims.

 

Its a bit*h to clean a YBR.

 

I flushed my engine ONCE with the OWS engine flush when i changed my EO back last year. The EO flow out like water. Damn disgusting like diarroheoa with "blobs" of engine oil. After flushing also the engine dont feel any difference.

[eement]

hey guy i need some help help...

 

wat if i cross thread a drain plug?cos i not too sure izzit cross thread...

 

as i was going to open the drain plug,but the racket sort of turning clockwise...but i only turn a few round n felt it kind of loose,den i realise it the wrong direction...wen i took out the drain plug, i could see that the plug have some thread eaten into...when i put it back it kind of loose...so i juz tighten when i find some tension...

 

plz advice...i in a loss....

 

my ride is s4 spec 1