Yamaha XT1200Z Super Tenere

[At.xrv]

Congrats on ur S10.so u got the blue/black 2012 model?

 

EO - engine oil

CO - exhaust O2 sensor setting

 

Much value has been mention however the below is the general guide

 

CO-0 : for full stock

CO-1 or 2 : for aftermarket air filter (other remain stock)

CO-3 or 4 : for slp-on added

CO-5 or 6 : for FS eox with or w/o air filter added

CO-7 beyond : no physical usage except to dump more fuel for backfire & lousy FC

 

Enjoy & may u find ur ideal CO setting as each S10 owner has different accessories load On the bike & the rider weight.

 

No hockie i got the black one.. Totally black.. I think u guys refer it as the 'blackout' version.

Now i get it EO is as simple as engine oil.. Hahaha. But the CO adjustment is done by ourselves ryt? How come its not in the manual? Do no where to adjust it... For now my bike is full stock and no accessories. So i guess no nid to change anything yet... Anws tanx hockie

[Encik Pat]

Encik...the higher the value,the lousy the FC leh...excessive backfire will kill the 'packing' inside the slip-on worr....lolx

 

when i set it at CO - 0 ... meter ave show 16.6km / L

than i set at CO - 3 ... it show 16.8km / L ..

 

was pumping the95 petrol .. now trying out the 98 ... lets see wats the diff ..

 

I'm sure u can hit 320km Pre tank once the milage grow & the engine loose up further.lolx

 

look like i need to wack the bike more .. hahaha

[hockie69]

when i set it at CO - 0 ... meter ave show 16.6km / L

than i set at CO - 3 ... it show 16.8km / L ..

 

was pumping the95 petrol .. now trying out the 98 ... lets see wats the diff ..

 

 

The CO setting is kind of like Tunning air fuel ratio where the value lower & higher then the 'sweet spot' will produces lousy FC while the 'sweet spot' will provide excellent FC & balance power output with minimum backfire.So need to trial & error on the best setting for each individual ride.

 

I was happy with CO4 while on 95shell but Abit lean when on 97shell.so I set to CO5 and pump either 97shell or 98shell(local).

 

Of course the other easy way out is to install a PCv & dyno tune.lolx

Edited November 29, 2011 by hockie69

[hockie69]

How come its not in the manual? Do no where to adjust it... For now my bike is full stock and no accessories. So i guess no nid to change anything yet... Anws tanx hockie

 

Oh....the 2012 blackout ver...then better keep ur black sub frame away from bro biting point...lolx

 

The manual for CO can be found in the FB posted by bro botz.

 

Down the way of ownership ,in the went that u start upgrading then it will come in handy to know such a feature to DIY before spending more for a PCv.

[hockie69]

Bro kev,

 

How's ur finding on tapping 3rd brake lite for the S10? Any 'safe' tipping point? As I intent to tap on some flashing brake lites too.keke

[bOtzZ]

Hahaha. But the CO adjustment is done by ourselves ryt? How come its not in the manual? Do no where to adjust it...

 

Try look at your owner's manual pg 3-10 and 3-11..

[Kevs]

Bro kev,

 

How's ur finding on tapping 3rd brake lite for the S10? Any 'safe' tipping point? As I intent to tap on some flashing brake lites too.keke

 

nt yet hv the chance to check out the tail light section yet. hv manage to locate the bundle of connectors, & IMO maybe no need to tk out the tank.

 

neway, maybe DIY installing my alarm 2molo, so shld be tapping the 3rd brake light too, will pos again abt the outcome.

[Encik Pat]

nt yet hv the chance to check out the tail light section yet. hv manage to locate the bundle of connectors, & IMO maybe no need to tk out the tank.

 

neway, maybe DIY installing my alarm 2molo, so shld be tapping the 3rd brake light too, will pos again abt the outcome.

why install alarm need to tap the 3rd brake light ... ??

though only need to connect to the signal light .. !!

[biting_point]

Wires are neatly hidden.. When you open up the rear section, then can see all wires..

I think he meant by do it together..

 

For tapping of wires, I suggest not to use the local mechanic standards of tapping aka splicing/twisting/combine/black tape style..

There's good wire tap connector available at Autobacs, they costs $1 each but will not do big damage to your wires.. Else if you feel rich enough, you can help us import some posi-tap..

http://www.posi-lock.com/

[Kevs]

why install alarm need to tap the 3rd brake light ... ??

though only need to connect to the signal light .. !!

 

Wires are neatly hidden.. When you open up the rear section, then can see all wires..

I think he meant by do it together..

 

For tapping of wires, I suggest not to use the local mechanic standards of tapping aka splicing/twisting/combine/black tape style..

There's good wire tap connector available at Autobacs, they costs $1 each but will not do big damage to your wires.. Else if you feel rich enough, you can help us import some posi-tap..

http://www.posi-lock.com/

 

thnx for helping me to clarify b_p

 

& yes encik, will do both the same time.

 

& thnx b_p for the minders will popby Autobacs later..

 

as actually i hv another way to tap neatly, which is abit lorsoh to type here, it consist of getting the connector pins, some wires, couple of single to double connectors & viola...

Edited November 30, 2011 by Kev's

[biting_point]

 

as actually i hv another way to tap neatly, which is abit lorsoh to type here, it consist of getting the connector pins, some wires, couple of single to double connectors & viola...

 

I think I know what you mean.. But still will "hurt" the wires..

Best to tap without striping.. Maybe it's just me, after seeing so many failed electricals, I'll stick to wire tappers instead strip and splice...

[hockie69]

neway, maybe DIY installing my alarm 2molo, so shld be tapping the 3rd brake light too, will pos again abt the outcome.

 

Noted with thanks.

 

Cos wanted to mount those flashing lite unit and act as brake lite.keke

[Kevs]

I think I know what you mean.. But still will "hurt" the wires..

Best to tap without striping.. Maybe it's just me, after seeing so many failed electricals, I'll stick to wire tappers instead strip and splice...

 

Noted with thanks.

 

Cos wanted to mount those flashing lite unit and act as brake lite.keke

 

considerably today has been quite fruitful, albeit some hiccups.

 

manage to hook up the alarm, & for the record, there is an alarm coupling together with the rear lights bundle, so more or less save my time to pull wires, & i didnt hv to lift the tank, just remove the small auxiliary compartment to access the bundle.

 

As for the 3rd brake light, with biting_point's good bt ex(IMO) reccomended wire tappers, it was also a breeze to tap.

 

shall post a FR with some pics 2molo when i hv full net access.

[hockie69]

shall post a FR with some pics 2molo when i hv full net access.

 

Looking forward to.

 

Thanks bro for the effort.

[Dom.C]

Hi Tenere lovers,anyone interested in a pair of 40L H&B Explorer panniers?Price is $850.PM me

[Kevs]

As per caption, prefer to have the bike armed when not around and also to increase night awareness via a 3rd brake light on the bike.

 

Initially, thought have to run wires throughout the bike for power source for the alarm, also, another headache was locating the bundle of rear lighting couplings.

As was told that have to lift and remove the tank, but by chance, when replacing the air filter, managed to find the bundle just below the rider seat compartment tray.

 

So with some free time on hand, the mis-adventure starts...

 

1) Started off with removing the right side fairings, bottom & top to reveal the bike's main wiring consoles.

 

2) Removal of seats, side panniners and rack, auxiliary carrier rack below pillion seat.

The last was done so to see if it was possible to tap from near the lights instead of stretching to the bundle and also to see the amount of space below, & low behold... There's really lots of space there...

 

3) Removal of the compartment tray:

- 4 bolts off the tank securing point bracket

- 1 long bolt off the securing point bracket for tank

- 2 nuts off the rider seat lock mechanism from the securing bracket

- 1 small plastic quick release philips heading on the center of the tray to remove the tray & viola..

 

4) Bundle located, & slowly dissected the connector couplings. Flipping thru the Service Manual, its stated there's Alarm coupling inside...

So with a multi-meter, time to crack the brain..

 

5)

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/DKiev/XT1200Z Super Tenere/2011-11-30144237.jpg?t=1322658155

Found the couplings..

The dual connector is: x1 24/7 +ve supply & x1 -ve

Quadriple connector consists of: x1 +ve supply when bike is turn on; x1 -ve; x2 to signal lights.

 

Saved time for running wires as its already factory supplied.

 

So up goes the connection:

 

6) Alarm Signal flashing connection:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/DKiev/XT1200Z Super Tenere/2011-11-30162455.jpg?t=1322658106

Yes I know, nonsense connection... Cos I dont have the receptical connector, only the pins that I long ordered from Eastern Beaver, so as a temporary measure nia..

 

Alarm source:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/DKiev/XT1200Z Super Tenere/2011-11-30162509.jpg?t=1322658097

Take note, other than the standard bike wirings, other auxiliary connectors and wires diagram arent found in the manual, only states its location thats all... Or maybe I c0cked eyed... lol...

 

7) As for the buzzer & antenna, managed to hide them under the auxiliary pillion carrier tray nicely.

Sensor & head unit is on the rider compartment tray.

 

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/DKiev/XT1200Z Super Tenere/2011-11-30193259.jpg?t=1322700922

 

Still got space for the tools..

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/DKiev/XT1200Z Super Tenere/2011-11-30193319.jpg?t=1322702077

As you can see, there's tons or wires, thats because its the wires from the sensor unit & the LED, didnt want run the LED so just tidy up & tuck one side.

 

Next up, 3rd Brake light.

As I have top box with brake light, & with hock's note on the night awareness especially on NSHW, better to be sighted than not.

 

The Givi top box plate doesnt come with ready hole for the connector, so from my resources told, have to DIY the hole....

 

Option 1: Knock the hole out

Option 2: Drill it out..

 

Tried Op 1, epic fail... So Op 2, with my Tamiya batt drill, the hole came popping out...

 

& the Connectors & tapping:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/DKiev/XT1200Z Super Tenere/2011-11-30162409.jpg?t=1322658138

Went to Autobacs to buy the tappers biting_point reccomended, so, easy tapping...

The connector is a 3 way, triangular coupling, sorry, forgot to take picture..

 

For Brake light source, on mine is Yellow, the Black with Brown spot would be the -ve. Blue is Tail light.

 

Then time to run the wire:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/DKiev/XT1200Z Super Tenere/2011-11-30193428.jpg?t=1322658052

From the base plate, there's no other way to hide the wire run, no choice, have to go thru the auxiliary carrier rack, and from the picture, it seems kinked, but actually not, just nice the wires bending over the groove and into the tail section.

Then all the way to the connector bundle, length just nice.

 

So here you have it, Alarm & 3rd Brake light.

 

Point to note:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/DKiev/XT1200Z Super Tenere/2011-12-01123334.jpg?t=1322734379

Not sure abt others, this bundle is just below the tank, behind the engine block.

IMO, it may not be that "waterproof"(well, nothing is waterproof), as its "expose" from either side if one just squat down & peek in.

Shall think of a way to tidy this up when got free time again.

 

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e100/DKiev/XT1200Z Super Tenere/2011-12-01123251.jpg?t=1322734550

For those who knows, this is the bundle for the meter, headlight & et cetera.

The way the rubber cover is facing, its expose to the front, and with the slight gap from the side fairing all the way to the front, dont think it can handle long standing splashing, another "scratch head" to tinker about.

 

More farkles in the pipeline to come..

 

Cheers!

[biting_point]

Nice write up..

But just seeing connectors, catch no balls.. Haha..

 

Forgot to mention that you should buy the red one, as it's for smaller gauge wires..

But the blue ones works fine thou..

 

Any possibilities to squeeze everything under pillion seat?? I've seen overseas owners cutting out the pillion seat plastic, as it's totally hollow inside..

If you care going to change to LED signals, you will need to open up the tail, you can then tidy them up..

 

Anyway, the tools can be kept infront of the battery, and it's meant to be kept there.. Haha..

Edited December 1, 2011 by biting_point

[Kevs]

Forgot to mention that you should buy the red one, as it's for smaller gauge wires..

But the blue ones works fine thou..

 

Any possibilities to squeeze everything under pillion seat?? I've seen overseas owners cutting out the pillion seat plastic, as it's totally hollow inside.. Maybe only the alarm can't fit it, the rest I'm sure will..

If you care going to change to LED signals, you will need to open up the tail, you can then tidy them up..

 

Anyway, the tools can be kept infront of the battery, and it's meant to be kept there.. Haha..

 

wah, i vomit so many words & u can read them fast...

 

well, i did saw the red ones, but decided on the blue ones cos the tolerence rating is higher, but it still works out fine for the thin wires to be snip in. Just have to mk sure that the wires are "snipped" as I found a couple didnt when connect, so just use a small tailor scissor to slightly "snip" a cut on the wire insulation and then plug back into the connector.

 

as for squeezing the items in, I prefer the head & sensor to be @ the centre of the bike, incase ppl disturb the rider seat.

& ya, I saw ppl cutting it up to use as an auxiliary storage space, but when I open mine, I think better not, cos it was dusty and had to dust it off, wouldnt want my barangs to be dusty and or water seepaging in from other areas around there.

 

as for the tools, prefer to be just using the key to open seat & direct access, cos its (IMO) extra to open seat, tk allen key, then open fairing to retrive tools there...

 

that now redundant area will be use for my power distribution location for fogs & other et ceteras in the coming future..

Edited December 1, 2011 by Kev's

[Kevs]

LED signals & OEM Touring windscreen... anyone selling?

 

Prefer OEM ones, full good working condition set please....

 

nid to procure OEM crashbars before mounting my Hella Supertone Twin tones also...

 

other farkles will be Hella Micro DE, H&B skid plate, arrow headers, Touratech adjustable windscreen bracket with GPS mount...

 

woots.. tio poison jialat jialat...

also, waiting for @whyzee for his *ahem akra...

[biting_point]

I did learn some speed reading.. But I missed out that you did already place the antenna and buzzer inside the pillion plastic.. Haha..

 

Anyway, I've ask Jaxon aka Tabasco for the availability of the dash shelf..

I felt that having the dash shelf will make the front dash looks neater after installing switches, gear indicatiors and voltmeter.. Will post it up if anyone want to share shipping..

[biting_point]

Buy from yamabits.co.uk

 

HL quoted $268 for side deflectors, yamabits selling them at £69.99..

 

The LED signals are plug and play for the front, rear ones need to cut the OEM signal wires as the LED ones too short..

[Kevs]

I did learn some speed reading.. But I missed out that you did already place the antenna and buzzer inside the pillion plastic.. Haha..

 

Anyway, I've ask Jaxon aka Tabasco for the availability of the dash shelf..

I felt that having the dash shelf will make the front dash looks neater after installing switches, gear indicatiors and voltmeter.. Will post it up if anyone want to share shipping..

 

 

hmm, i prefer my dashboard to be clear, hence the fog switch which I already have, to be between the clutch console and mirror clamp.

as for volt meter(which I fail to mount yesterday), it will be just above the meter, wiring running along the cluster of wires to inside.

 

hmm.. gear meters, any reccomendations?

[Kevs]

Buy from yamabits.co.uk

 

HL quoted $268 for side deflectors, yamabits selling them at £69.99..

 

The LED signals are plug and play for the front, rear ones need to cut the OEM signal wires as the LED ones too short..

 

lol... i already limited my credit card....

 

too short?

or they gave both set same part?

 

neway... really tempted to bust the bank to get everything @ a go... but restrained ah.. wahahahaha......

 

oyes... when u wana sell me the side deflectors?

collect together with the headlight protector & tank pad?

[biting_point]

hmm.. gear meters, any reccomendations?

 

there's this small space directly opposite the 12v socket on the left..

depending on the brand of the gear indicator, one might just fit in fine..

 

lol... i already limited my credit card....

 

too short?

or they gave both set same part?

 

neway... really tempted to bust the bank to get everything @ a go... but restrained ah.. wahahahaha......

 

oyes... when u wana sell me the side deflectors?

collect together with the headlight protector & tank pad?

 

the yamaha OEM signals are generic OEM parts for all yammies.. so i think the wire length is standard, just that S10 rear signals are exceptionally long!!!

 

regarding the side deflectors, my project also not so fast start, maybe after CNY, as i also not printing Yusofs.. haha..

if you want, you can collect the HL protector and tank pad first..

[hockie69]

hmm.. gear meters, any reccomendations?

 

If u can get it work.i will get what u did.lolx

 

As I had physically tried at a 'special' workshop near ubi area for few hours and none of the big brand works on the S10.

 

Either tech hand not warm or product mismatch.all I know is that my desh is short of a gear indicator.haha