[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[joajas]

Guys, today I encounter an incident, hope your can help me diagnose the possibilities.

 

I was on the eway cruising at a constant speed, suddenly I encounter engine brake, I turn my throttle and there is no response. Seems like the plugs are not firing at all.

 

I look at my meter, my oil light is not on, so means that engine should not have stalled. I just rolled to the shoulder, brake then I see the oil light comes on.

 

As I stopped by the road shoulder I tried cranking the engine. I can hear the starter cranking, but the engine did not start. It only started after another few tries at cranking.

 

After I got the bike started I went to the workshop and ask them to check.

 

Result from their check is battery is ok, charging is ok, plugs are all firing. nothing seems wrong.

 

It happened at around noon, and from then until now I have clocked more than 50km and the problem did not resurface.

 

What could have caused that problem???

[joajas]

Congrats Dkoh on your new "wife".

[smiley73]

That was what I would have done oso lor..but sometime its all luck oso lah. Buy 2nd second inspect incpect okay...but after three months..suddenly bigger Lobang appeared oso Lagi_Cheklak!!!

 

got cheap 1 can take lor ....

[smiley73]

Errmmm... I remember i told the motodiam to check on the important things like brake, chain, electrical.. etc... but nv tot that they will replace new items for me... so actually i quite surprise too... Guess i am a happy rider now, love the bike.... only the rusty area makes me feel abit sad... Will touch on them tomorrow...

 

The socket is black in colour and the chain looks abit chrome coloured... think should be some cheaper brands or else where got so good... LOL!!!

 

lor they change for you

[tanlewis]

joajas - i experienced it before while i was riding at expressway, for my case it happen on and off and there is no power when i trottle.. afterwhich, mechanic was not able to tell the problem as all other area are working fine.. in the end, it was the wiring from the emergency RUN/OFF switch short circuit and need to change a new one. maybe mine is different from yours but share share with you only.

[Dkoh]

Congrats Dkoh on your new "wife".

 

Hey thanks bro....

[Ah Pek]

Guys, today I encounter an incident, hope your can help me diagnose the possibilities.

 

I was on the eway cruising at a constant speed, suddenly I encounter engine brake, I turn my throttle and there is no response. Seems like the plugs are not firing at all.

 

I look at my meter, my oil light is not on, so means that engine should not have stalled. I just rolled to the shoulder, brake then I see the oil light comes on.

 

As I stopped by the road shoulder I tried cranking the engine. I can hear the starter cranking, but the engine did not start. It only started after another few tries at cranking.

 

After I got the bike started I went to the workshop and ask them to check.

 

Result from their check is battery is ok, charging is ok, plugs are all firing. nothing seems wrong.

 

It happened at around noon, and from then until now I have clocked more than 50km and the problem did not resurface.

 

What could have caused that problem???

 

Only two things that can cause such problem and this kind of symptom...wiring being first priority and second..CDI.

 

Have to agreed with Tanlewis..similar problem he faced..I have that one too..and its the "Kill Switch" wire...if memory serve me well..its grey with black strip or black with blue stip colour coding..can't be clear about this.

 

But once this return is broken or deterioted over period of time..the engine just die flat. Check the area that mostly lightly the broken part of the wire will be..below the handle and just under the front of the fuel tank..lots of twisting and turning can caused old wire to break a few strand inside this multi-core small cable...mine was this problem.

[Ah Pek]

Ok...you ppl who loves to coming here for questions and answer can get some gain in knowledge by reading what's put up at TechGhee Tech Talk without coming to Teck Ghee Square Ko-pee-Orh seesion. Read..digest..and analyse what is posted and with a little bit of thinking..it should help you get going.

 

Please do not write or pm the poster there..any uncertainity can be iron out or discussed here. I presume lot of other 'expert' here would cheap in to help..I old ah-pek liao and get tired easily.

 

So...have fun guys...first installment write-up is up olehdee...

[joajas]

joajas - i experienced it before while i was riding at expressway, for my case it happen on and off and there is no power when i trottle.. afterwhich, mechanic was not able to tell the problem as all other area are working fine.. in the end, it was the wiring from the emergency RUN/OFF switch short circuit and need to change a new one. maybe mine is different from yours but share share with you only.

 

Only two things that can cause such problem and this kind of symptom...wiring being first priority and second..CDI.

 

Have to agreed with Tanlewis..similar problem he faced..I have that one too..and its the "Kill Switch" wire...if memory serve me well..its grey with black strip or black with blue stip colour coding..can't be clear about this.

 

But once this return is broken or deterioted over period of time..the engine just die flat. Check the area that mostly lightly the broken part of the wire will be..below the handle and just under the front of the fuel tank..lots of twisting and turning can caused old wire to break a few strand inside this multi-core small cable...mine was this problem.

 

Hey thanks bro....

 

 

You are very welcomed Dkoh.

 

Thanks Ah Pek and tanlewis for your inputs. Will check that out.

[tim17]

ah-pek... you know where do wielding??

[Ah Pek]

ah-pek... you know where do wielding??

 

Well tank iszit?...patching leak again huh?..Check with Seng Kwan la because there welding is not using lead type or battery arching (can rust near surrounding). Asked if he can make a nice steel disc or plate cut and weld as a patch..but he's not cheap..not sure how much its gonna cost you though. tell him William do t-shirt one recommend you lor. Also not sure his steel welding material can fuse with the tank material..he should be able to advise you..no harm asking la.

 

If still too xpansive..then have to find other sources..check yellow pages thru internet. One thing though..do expect some cost for labour of emptying and washing the tank. The fuel k©ock has to be taken out...area of patch be drilled larger..sandpapered and prep for good welding.

 

If I were you..look for a second hand tank..or DIY. Get hold of a patch plate that won't rust larger that leak and use "Steel Epoxy"...very solid and can drill and sand after dry. The most important thing is that the surrounding area must be very well prep...that is clean off oil, dirt and other contaminant.

[Ah Pek]

TeckGhee tech talk is updated

[tim17]

but i got difficulty taking out the fuel tank le... damn sian

[Ah Pek]

but i got difficulty taking out the fuel tank le... damn sian

 

Difficult?...why? Sian?..huh?...lazy iszit..then have to pay $$s lor

[pufferfis]

the arrowmax u got sounds reasonable...

anyways i ever used GPR x-ring before at 120 but it didnt last that long honestly...even after regular oilin every 2 full petrol top ups..maybe lasted only like 20k..always get loose n have to tighten..after 20k it makes a horrible grinding sound......

 

perhaps u can spend more on DID x-ring...like $180 ..mine now already 50k but havent need to tighten yet...

cheers

just wanna ask u guys, burn $350 at bike shop yest... do i get overcharge changing this stuff?...

 

- Dunlop made in japan Arrowmax front n back $210

- GPR X-ring chain and sprocket $125..

 

is the above price same as other shop or did it got cheated man?...

 

plus adding a rxz head to my s4 and also buying a lower handle bar.... shop quote me $70 for rxz head and $40 for low handle bar.... is it ok?... thnks guys...

[fi_east]

Need some enlightening guys.... At any gear when i try to drag the rpm to ard 6 or 7 suddenly the exhaust gave this weird sound, not the regular smooth sounds, seems like a chocking sound... Anyone know what the problem is?...

[tanlewis]

can you elaborate more? what kind of sound? backfire sound? i guess if it is an old bike try to wack less as you might damage other parts in the bike in long run.. eat petrol also..

[way_ne]

ah pek, check wif u ah...now like start bike aftr awhile it will die off....it need to warm up for some time in order not to die off....izzit the lvl of the eo not enough or wad reason?

thx...

[tanlewis]

your idling too low? or your battery weak? was wondering my ver r can only go up to 310 then will hit reserve.. wht is the average for ver s/r? the non v tec series..

[Ah Pek]

ah pek, check wif u ah...now like start bike aftr awhile it will die off....it need to warm up for some time in order not to die off....izzit the lvl of the eo not enough or wad reason?

thx...

 

I considered it normal la..old bike olehdee. Even if you tune the idle higher just to have it idle during warm up...by then the next 3km to 5km ride..the idling becomes very high. Don't expect bike after 10yrs to behave like those of 5-8 years. It all greatly depend on how the prvious owner takes care of the bike. If you can live with it..just let it be...for warming up, just hold throttle in the morning for 30 to 45 secs or use choke to get it warm up faster. REVO auto choke and Yamaha Fazer 1 oso runs about 30secs or more as a new bike.

 

Anyway..it's a carb to engine block Venturi Effect thingy (fuel flow and air)..the only way to solve your current problem and have your bike behave like new is to have the new carb an a new set of piston and rings. Not going into detail of Venturi effects..its chim!...especially to hardware that already has wear and tear.

 

Oh..nothing to do with eo level.

[Ah Pek]

your idling too low? or your battery weak? was wondering my ver r can only go up to 310 then will hit reserve.. wht is the average for ver s/r? the non v tec series..

 

IMHO - there is no such fixed reference has how much any version of S4 that has a good fc mileage. The reason is that it boils down to so many criteria...tire pressure and condition and size matters, chain tension and conditions, weight of rider, riding behaviour, traffice situation and conditions, the list goes on.

 

If all the factors mentioned above equates to "1"..then I have to agreed that there is a fix good fc mileage figure..otherwise..its just all radom behaviour of each individual ride for the day till the full tank reach reserve. As I understand it..much like cars..vechical are placed on a Dynamomter thread mill and tread at 90km/hr constant at a given environmental temperature till it reaches fuel end to clocked its total mileage for a given fuel capacity. Now...this is what I meant "equates to 1".

 

So to say..the varying condition and changes everytime we get on our bike and ride...there is no such think as good fc unless the bike is really in bad condition. If there is a reference it would be from 17km/litr to 23km/litr...again..IMHO.

[way_ne]

I considered it normal la..old bike olehdee. Even if you tune the idle higher just to have it idle during warm up...by then the next 3km to 5km ride..the idling becomes very high. Don't expect bike after 10yrs to behave like those of 5-8 years. It all greatly depend on how the prvious owner takes care of the bike. If you can live with it..just let it be...for warming up, just hold throttle in the morning for 30 to 45 secs or use choke to get it warm up faster. REVO auto choke and Yamaha Fazer 1 oso runs about 30secs or more as a new bike.

 

Anyway..it's a carb to engine block Venturi Effect thingy (fuel flow and air)..the only way to solve your current problem and have your bike behave like new is to have the new carb an a new set of piston and rings. Not going into detail of Venturi effects..its chim!...especially to hardware that already has wear and tear.

 

Oh..nothing to do with eo level.

 

haha okok....thx for ur detailed explanation....

[tanlewis]

ah pek power.

[Ah Pek]

ah pek power.

 

LOL!....no lah..jsut sharing what I know..read and experiences from many others after so many years on two wheels. Yah! ...power to all the ppl here

[joajas]

but i got difficulty taking out the fuel tank le... damn sian

 

Take out tank is very easy one.

 

1. take out seat.

 

2. Behind fuel ****, got 2 tubes, one big one small. Take out the big one. Take out the small one at the other end, not the end connected to the fuel ****.

 

3. Take out the fuel level sensor at the other side of the tank, it is a black connector under the tank.

 

4. Take out the 2 screws.

 

5. Lift up the tank using the place where the screws are. look below. got 2 tubes?? if yes take them off.

 

6. Finally hold the tank at the front, somewhere in the middle where there is an arch, then hold the other end, where the screws were. Lift up the screw side, then slide the tank towards the rear of the bike. Once you feel that the front side is loose you can lift off the whole tank from your bike.

 

Ok, think that's about it. Ah Pek, anything to add?

 

My final statement: Taking out is easy, putting back is not!!