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Posted
Dun scare la, like wat he said usually if coil defective...

 

You would probably can't start your bike liao, need to call for tow truck le.

 

You still can start your bike now, means still got hope lor.. LOL

 

:goodluck:

 

huh??? your "start" means what???? i can still turn on my bike... with all the lights on but weak la... then when want to try to ignite... like no power to the plug... and all the lights does very dim...

 

if coil defective.. even all the lights also cannot light?

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Posted
huh??? your "start" means what???? i can still turn on my bike... with all the lights on but weak la... then when want to try to ignite... like no power to the plug... and all the lights does very dim...

 

if coil defective.. even all the lights also cannot light?

 

Got one very good solution for you...sure no need to scare one, such no need to worry about coil one, sure no need to worried about canot start one, sure no need to worried about light weak one, surely no need to buy new battery one oso...after you charged your battery and it shown 12V again, quickly put it back and surely can start one and than quicky ride to bike shop and sell away the bike...see..I help you to be so clever hor..yeah!!!:D ..if difficult to selll the bike..then give it away lor...another...yeah!!! :cheer:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Got one very good solution for you...sure no need to scare one, such no need to worry about coil one, sure no need to worried about canot start one, sure no need to worried about light weak one, surely no need to buy new battery one oso...after you charged your battery and it shown 12V again, quickly put it back and surely can start one and than quicky ride to bike shop and sell away the bike...see..I help you to be so clever hor..yeah!!!:D ..if difficult to selll the bike..then give it away lor...another...yeah!!! :cheer:

 

wah ah-pek... good wisdom there... is it you go bukit timah hill and meditate?? or redhill?? hahahhaa:cheer:

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/asset.php?fid=279659&uid=24812&d=1407032960
Posted
wah ah-pek... good wisdom there... is it you go bukit timah hill and meditate?? or redhill?? hahahhaa:cheer:

 

Alamak!...what Bukit Timan and Red Hill lah...just cam back from Mt. Everest last week leh..ppl talking mountain..you still talking hills?...alamak :D

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
if coil defective.. even all the lights also cannot light?

 

Oh forgot to tell you...take out your coil and charge it oso :)

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Oh forgot to tell you...take out your coil and charge it oso :)

 

where is the coil located sia??

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/asset.php?fid=279659&uid=24812&d=1407032960
Posted
where is the coil located sia??

 

Disassemble the headlamp and follow one blue wire to its end :D

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

ah-pek... coil also can charge ar??? hahaha i didnt noe leh serious.

 

i encounter the same problem before.. took ah-peks advice... thks bro...

if u dun want to use ur bike anymore tell me... i want ur fork!! hahaha

 

on a serious note, if u want to keep ur bike still and not sell away, try change ur rectifier for 75 bucks at sin boon motor... could be ur wiring shot circuit... after u have changed the rectifier and charge the battery, monitor it for a few days.. check ur head lights and see that it dims when stationary and brightens when throttle is applied.

 

if u still cannot start ur bike, it will be finally coil... but once u change the rectifier the mech there can i dentify whether ur coil is charging the battery at the correct voltage required..

 

battery not charging properly still can try to push start the bike unless really cannot then call for tow... be careful like wat mi bro ah-pek here has mention many times... dun fall of the other side... :bounce:

 

good luck bro in finding the solution...

 

eh ah-pek wat is motortiam? work shop ar? of forum? haha i hear u speak of it often but cannot figure it out wat it is... lol :D

Posted

Mototiam?..like Ko_Pee_tiam lor...LOL! Motorcycle workshop lah.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

huh... maybe yesterday night i turn high beam on... so thats why today batt weak...

 

ah-pek.... if batt no current... will it charge back if i push start??

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/asset.php?fid=279659&uid=24812&d=1407032960
Posted
huh... maybe yesterday night i turn high beam on... so thats why today batt weak...

 

ah-pek.... if batt no current... will it charge back if i push start??

 

Yes...unless your rectifier or coil is not working.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Yes...unless your rectifier or coil is not working.

 

huh.... then what is the main purpose of the rectifier??

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/asset.php?fid=279659&uid=24812&d=1407032960
Posted

push start won;t charge ur batt cau u need certain rpm/speed den ur batt can be charge by itself ..

Posted
huh.... then what is the main purpose of the rectifier??

 

The main purpose of the rectifier is to overcharge your battery and try to shot it so that mototiam can make money lor. The coil is to shot the rectifier which in turn shot overcharge the battery that shot back the coil lor...like that you oso don't know mei?...aiyo.

 

So how?...you got your tank patch and resprayed for $140.00 olehdee? My contact called me just now said he found a fuel tank in excellent condition and looks very new and the price was $155.00. Anyway, I told him no lah bekuz your budget was only $140.00:sian:

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
ah pek chrome rim can use paint remover ar? i heard ppl use... any pointers?

 

Actually I don't think its truely chrome as in "chromed"...its more or less polished shiny aluminium finishes coated with a layer of acrylic or laquer as a protection..very much like the cyclinder top head.

 

Its over a period of time that this layer turns tarnish and does not shine anymore. Any further polishing it would only wear it thinner and eventually you find flake bits of expose shinny aluminum. And yes..you can use paint remover to remove the laquer layer. The rim shines well but is never protected. If you do not want to have it resprayed with acrylic coating again..best that you have a sprayed layer of Silicon (like SC21), coat with Polyermer wax or oiled (10W) it and wipe dry to protect the shine. Polish you can but not too often..bare shiny aluminium requires lots of maintenance effort..its for the enthusiast who love their bite to shine...like a quick wash..superficial polish and oil it when it get caught in rain and gritty road wetness.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
The main purpose of the rectifier is to overcharge your battery and try to shot it so that mototiam can make money lor. The coil is to shot the rectifier which in turn shot overcharge the battery that shot back the coil lor...like that you oso don't know mei?...aiyo.

 

So how?...you got your tank patch and resprayed for $140.00 olehdee? My contact called me just now said he found a fuel tank in excellent condition and looks very new and the price was $155.00. Anyway, I told him no lah bekuz your budget was only $140.00:sian:

 

ah pek... about the tank patch thingy... i checked with the mech... don't need to wield or re-spray... $70 can le... inside will look damn new!!! will let you know what is it call again...

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/asset.php?fid=279659&uid=24812&d=1407032960
Posted
ah pek... about the tank patch thingy... i checked with the mech... don't need to wield or re-spray... $70 can le... inside will look damn new!!! will let you know what is it call again...

 

eh tim17 let me noe also where to do, and how long.. hehe coz i think i also need to patch... eh respray to wat? standard wings? or the plain colour?

Posted
eh tim17 let me noe also where to do, and how long.. hehe coz i think i also need to patch... eh respray to wat? standard wings? or the plain colour?

 

roughly about 4 working days.... coz if wield... confirm will damage the paint... so just spray back plain colour i think... but not whole tank...

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Posted

An interest article here about "carbs Jetting" posted in other thread..tot I have here for those hardly visit elsewhere..

 

================================================== ====================================

 

 

This is one of the misunderstood areas of tuning. It is also an operation that is done wrong more times than not. Any shop that tells you that they have jetted your bike correctly is only guessing if they are not equipped with a dynamometer. While they may be very talented and able to guess closely, they are still only guessing, whether they want to admit it or not. We have set up many bikes on the dyno that have had performance work done at shops that did not have a dynamometer. Some shops were aftermarket, some were franchised, but we have NEVER, EVER, found a motorcycle set up by a shop without a dynamometer that we could not make some kind of performance improvements on. We are not saying that a shop without a dyno cannot jet your carb, we are just saying that they cannot do it right. When we dyno tune a bike, it is not unusual to get 30-40 dyno runs on a bike just to get the jetting right. To get even close to the same results without a dynamometer, you would have to put at least 80-90 miles on the bike,one or two miles at a time, on the road with at least half of them being run at over 100MPH. A dynamometer does not lie, and it is without question the most accurate way to set up carb jetting.

If you don't have a shop in your area with a dynamometer, it may be worth your while to make the trip to a place that does. If it is not possible, then you are going to have to rely on the old trial and error method. While you may find information published telling you what jet size to use on a certain bike, and it may seem to work, don't blindly believe it. Every bike can be different. The only way to tell is to buy a handful of jets and try them. Even if your bike seems to run o.k with the jet size recommended by someone with the same bike, you still want to install one size richer and one size leaner and see it makes any difference. Ideally, you want to find the smallest main jet that gives you the highest top speed, then richen it up one size, just to be on the safe side. Your bike should not foul the correct spark plug. If your bike fouls plugs or if you have to run a hotter plug than what is recommended for the bike, then SOMETHING IS WRONG. Go back over EVERYTHING again. Also make sure everything else is right before you begin. It is impossible to correctly jet an engine that is out of time, or has a tight valve, or burns excessive oil, etc. What may seem immaterial to someone who doesn't do it every day can actually have a drastic effect on a bikes performance. For example if the battery in your bike is not up to par, all of your jetting efforts may be in vain. I cannot stress enough that EVERYTHING else must be right BEFORE you make any attempt to set the jetting.

Also keep in mind that ANY time you change the air filter or exhaust pipes, you may have to re-jet the carb. While we are on the subject of exhaust pipes, I would like to emphasize that if you install drag pipes on your bike and don't re-jet the carb, you will probably go slower, foul plugs, and the pipes will probably turn blue. It's not the pipes fault, it is your fault, you were too lazy to properly jet the carb. Drag pipes can improve performance, but ONLY if the carb is set up right for them. Loud is NOT fast. Loud is only fast when the jetting is correct and the bike is tuned right. Otherwise, you are only kidding yourself. Do it right, or take it to someone who can. You will be happy you did, plus it is easier on your bike. A carb that is not jetted correctly will ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY, DEFINITELY take life off of your motor. Get the jetting right, your bike will run better, have less problems, and go a lot longer between rebuilds.

===========================================================

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
An interest article here about "carbs Jetting" posted in other thread..tot I have here for those hardly visit elsewhere..

 

================================================== ====================================

 

 

This is one of the misunderstood areas of tuning. It is also an operation that is done wrong more times than not. Any shop that tells you that they have jetted your bike correctly is only guessing if they are not equipped with a dynamometer. While they may be very talented and able to guess closely, they are still only guessing, whether they want to admit it or not. We have set up many bikes on the dyno that have had performance work done at shops that did not have a dynamometer. Some shops were aftermarket, some were franchised, but we have NEVER, EVER, found a motorcycle set up by a shop without a dynamometer that we could not make some kind of performance improvements on. We are not saying that a shop without a dyno cannot jet your carb, we are just saying that they cannot do it right. When we dyno tune a bike, it is not unusual to get 30-40 dyno runs on a bike just to get the jetting right. To get even close to the same results without a dynamometer, you would have to put at least 80-90 miles on the bike,one or two miles at a time, on the road with at least half of them being run at over 100MPH. A dynamometer does not lie, and it is without question the most accurate way to set up carb jetting.

If you don't have a shop in your area with a dynamometer, it may be worth your while to make the trip to a place that does. If it is not possible, then you are going to have to rely on the old trial and error method. While you may find information published telling you what jet size to use on a certain bike, and it may seem to work, don't blindly believe it. Every bike can be different. The only way to tell is to buy a handful of jets and try them. Even if your bike seems to run o.k with the jet size recommended by someone with the same bike, you still want to install one size richer and one size leaner and see it makes any difference. Ideally, you want to find the smallest main jet that gives you the highest top speed, then richen it up one size, just to be on the safe side. Your bike should not foul the correct spark plug. If your bike fouls plugs or if you have to run a hotter plug than what is recommended for the bike, then SOMETHING IS WRONG. Go back over EVERYTHING again. Also make sure everything else is right before you begin. It is impossible to correctly jet an engine that is out of time, or has a tight valve, or burns excessive oil, etc. What may seem immaterial to someone who doesn't do it every day can actually have a drastic effect on a bikes performance. For example if the battery in your bike is not up to par, all of your jetting efforts may be in vain. I cannot stress enough that EVERYTHING else must be right BEFORE you make any attempt to set the jetting.

Also keep in mind that ANY time you change the air filter or exhaust pipes, you may have to re-jet the carb. While we are on the subject of exhaust pipes, I would like to emphasize that if you install drag pipes on your bike and don't re-jet the carb, you will probably go slower, foul plugs, and the pipes will probably turn blue. It's not the pipes fault, it is your fault, you were too lazy to properly jet the carb. Drag pipes can improve performance, but ONLY if the carb is set up right for them. Loud is NOT fast. Loud is only fast when the jetting is correct and the bike is tuned right. Otherwise, you are only kidding yourself. Do it right, or take it to someone who can. You will be happy you did, plus it is easier on your bike. A carb that is not jetted correctly will ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY, DEFINITELY take life off of your motor. Get the jetting right, your bike will run better, have less problems, and go a lot longer between rebuilds.

===========================================================

 

So does it mean that if i am changing from an original air filter to a K&N air filter, i need to do this carb jetting???

Posted
So does it mean that if i am changing from an original air filter to a K&N air filter, i need to do this carb jetting???

 

This is very subjective. The condition the day your bike is fitted with a Hi-Flow filter depends very much on the peak condition of your bike..I m referring to your carburettion from carbs balancing to air and fuel mixtures setting. we have to realize the reason why we want a hi-flow..not just a "oh..I'm using K&N etc..most ppl think that its less maintenance and cost saving beside being a performance filter". The main reason is to have more air so that there is more % of oxygen getting into the combustion chamber..and that's what needed most for a good combustion especially in high rpm usage when oxygen is highly needed.

 

So I guess what it is telling us here is that..from hi-flow filter replace to third party exhaust system replacement...a test run on a dynometer should help in setting your bike tunning right for the ultimate performance.

 

IMHO - One other way to get just about the same thing without having to spend $$s on hi-flow filter is to have the rubber intake tube in the airbox cut slightly shorter..about 20% the most. This would increase the air volume and generate a 'force' rate in to the standard original air filter. Not sure about Vtec airbox air intake..but I'm referring to PB1..version S and R should be the same unless your airbox does not accomodate the round cyclinder type filter. But then again..the technique is the same as long as there is an air intake duct for the airbox.

 

Generally, the resultant effect is better peformance at hi rpm drag performance. One thing to consider is that the idling for cold start may or may not be affected..so carbs has to be well synchronised or balanced and fuel and air mixture done right..however, once warm up to normal running temperature, its a weee_u_weee!...just adjust the idling to your recommended setting (1-1.2K at least...manual recommended 1.25k - 1.4k).

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
eh tim17 let me noe also where to do, and how long.. hehe coz i think i also need to patch... eh respray to wat? standard wings? or the plain colour?

 

legionaire.. refer to this link ---> http://www.por15.com/

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Posted

gahh. any idea how much a gazi, secong hand bitubo and second hand showa cost?

 

rear shock needs to be change alr. ride bike like got ride camel feeling.

I'd rather get a Leo Vince than a Louis Vuitton.

Posted
gahh. any idea how much a gazi, secong hand bitubo and second hand showa cost?

 

rear shock needs to be change alr. ride bike like got ride camel feeling.

 

 

"gahh. any idea how much a gazi," >>> $0.85 cents

 

"secong hand bitubo" >>> $2.75 cents..buy one side, get the other side

free.

 

"and second hand showa cost?" >>> $50.00 1 set.

 

"rear shock needs to be change alr. ride bike like got ride camel feeling" >>> Suggest you charge with water instead..and the ride feels like you are on an elephant.

 

:D :D :D

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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